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Old 09-03-2012, 04:21 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Forged Rods and pistons

Wondering of anyone here has done forged rods and pistons on there 5.0 yet? I've been looking into them. Wondering what the best brands r and best quality. I notice the ford ones come together with Rods and pistons. All the other brands u have to buy the rods then go buy the pistons

Just getting ideas and opinions from u more experienced guys on here

Here's a link to lethals rods Connecting Rods - Engine - 2011-2013 Mustang GT 5.0L
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Old 09-03-2012, 07:20 PM   #2 (permalink)
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I have manly forged rods and piston.

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Old 09-03-2012, 07:39 PM   #3 (permalink)
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How do u like them? What type of forces induction r u using and how much power
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Old 09-03-2012, 08:00 PM   #4 (permalink)
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I just did engine swap to a ford racing aluminator. But there are few who went with Boss short block.
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Old 09-03-2012, 08:05 PM   #5 (permalink)
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The Manley billet pro series I-beam rods have been beat to death in many drag racing and road racing applications and hold up better than any of the budget h-beam (eagle, manley, k-1, etc..). they are more expensive but worth every cent if you want to build it once.

Manley 5.0L Pro Series Billet I-Beam Connecting Rod w/22mm Pin

Similar good things have been proven about oliver rods. (same ones used on the 206mph twin turbo power by the hour mustang).

Oliver 5.0L Coyote Billet I-Beam Conncting Rod Set

Not sure if the oliver rods are 3/8 or 7/16" rod bolts..

Last edited by twistedneck; 09-03-2012 at 08:06 PM..
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Old 09-03-2012, 08:30 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Give the guys at MMR a call
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Old 09-03-2012, 10:54 PM   #7 (permalink)
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I dropped in an aluminator instead of building up my old motor.
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Old 09-03-2012, 11:17 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Not balling enough to drop motors in and get a blower and what not? Just tryna upgrade the rods and pistons and get my blower. Not going crazy high with the numbers. Probably will stay in the 600-650 range. It's my daily driver
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Old 09-04-2012, 03:10 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Hmm

No need for pistons or rods then. I have been doing it for almost 2 years now.
10 psi a good tune and keep a check on octane 93+. Just trying to upgrade?
U would need to pull the motor to do rods anyway. It's not a small job leave it alone.

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Not balling enough to drop motors in and get a blower and what not? Just tryna upgrade the rods and pistons and get my blower. Not going crazy high with the numbers. Probably will stay in the 600-650 range. It's my daily driver

Last edited by grnenvy; 09-04-2012 at 03:13 AM..
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Old 09-04-2012, 07:35 AM   #10 (permalink)
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thats interesting. i definately hear u though. ive seen plenty guys running 700+ on these cars with stock motor and tranny and clutch and havent had any problems
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Old 09-04-2012, 07:42 AM   #11 (permalink)
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No need for pistons or rods then. I have been doing it for almost 2 years now.
10 psi a good tune and keep a check on octane 93+. Just trying to upgrade?
U would need to pull the motor to do rods anyway. It's not a small job leave it alone.
how much power you make and how often you beat on the caR?
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Old 09-04-2012, 09:08 AM   #12 (permalink)
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OP, if 600whp is your goal then like stated above, leave it alone. Get a good safe tune and it should be fine. TON's of guys are doing that. These motors can handle 550whp forever and 600-650whp for a good long time epending on how much you beat on it, etc.
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Old 09-04-2012, 09:41 AM   #13 (permalink)
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well i have a new job so im not making a 40 mile drive to work anymore. i only work ten minutes from my house now so wont b much beating. i'ma go vortech or paxton and looking 600-650 rwhp and i'll definately have a safe tune. i was thinking of later down the line doing a small hit of nitrous with the blower to possibly only use at the track but that would b later down the line but doubt i do it. it was just a thought. i know some turbo guys do small hits of nitrous but it was just a thought. nothing set in stone, but the blower is going on for sure very soon
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Old 09-04-2012, 09:58 AM   #14 (permalink)
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Quote:
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well i have a new job so im not making a 40 mile drive to work anymore. i only work ten minutes from my house now so wont b much beating. i'ma go vortech or paxton and looking 600-650 rwhp and i'll definately have a safe tune. i was thinking of later down the line doing a small hit of nitrous with the blower to possibly only use at the track but that would b later down the line but doubt i do it. it was just a thought. i know some turbo guys do small hits of nitrous but it was just a thought. nothing set in stone, but the blower is going on for sure very soon
Guys, yes while tuning affects the life spam of the motor, don't think that because the tune is safe you can push 1100whp through a stock motor and be fine. 600whp is a lot more than what the engine was designed for and sooner or later the extra stress to which the motor wasn't designed for will take a toll..
IMO the key is a good tune and how much yo beat on it. Even if the tune is safe but you're pushing 650whp... i guarantee you that if you beat on it consistently it will break.

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Old 09-04-2012, 10:44 AM   #15 (permalink)
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Quote:
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well i have a new job so im not making a 40 mile drive to work anymore. i only work ten minutes from my house now so wont b much beating. i'ma go vortech or paxton and looking 600-650 rwhp and i'll definately have a safe tune. i was thinking of later down the line doing a small hit of nitrous with the blower to possibly only use at the track but that would b later down the line but doubt i do it. it was just a thought. i know some turbo guys do small hits of nitrous but it was just a thought. nothing set in stone, but the blower is going on for sure very soon
you'll be fine with a centri blower. There easier on the rods(the weak link). Ill be going paxton mywelf this winter. IM shooting for about the same as you and my car is a DD as well. Im looking for 580-600whp low boost and 700high boost. I'll be running Methonal though.
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Old 09-04-2012, 11:03 AM   #16 (permalink)
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Choosing Paxton because of the bigger head unit?
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Old 09-04-2012, 11:05 AM   #17 (permalink)
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This might help some of you out who are looking for a shortblock -

RGR Built 5.0 "Coyote" Short Block
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Old 09-04-2012, 11:33 AM   #18 (permalink)
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^ That seems a little expensive?
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Old 09-04-2012, 11:34 AM   #19 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by truebluedevil02 View Post
you'll be fine with a centri blower. There easier on the rods(the weak link). Ill be going paxton mywelf this winter. IM shooting for about the same as you and my car is a DD as well. Im looking for 580-600whp low boost and 700high boost. I'll be running Methonal though.
Definitely do the 200-shot if you're going meth
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Old 09-04-2012, 11:37 AM   #20 (permalink)
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I have manly forged rods and piston.

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Old 09-04-2012, 05:43 PM   #21 (permalink)
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I did the boss rods and pistons. It's a nice setup cause they come assembled and even the rings come on the piston ready to drop in. If you get the crank there's no need to get the assembly balanced. This is a great budget build, the parts are cheap compared to aftermarket and no machine work is nessacery.
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Old 09-04-2012, 06:09 PM   #22 (permalink)
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Stang910 what type of forced induction r u going witj
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Old 09-04-2012, 07:35 PM   #23 (permalink)
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I've got a paxton on mine.
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Old 09-04-2012, 07:48 PM   #24 (permalink)
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I did the boss rods and pistons. It's a nice setup cause they come assembled and even the rings come on the piston ready to drop in. If you get the crank there's no need to get the assembly balanced. This is a great budget build, the parts are cheap compared to aftermarket and no machine work is nessacery.
That is a very valid point, you would absolutely not want to toss a set of random pistons and rods in that weren't balanced to the crank. The Boss parts are the only ones that let you do that. My Manley rods and pistons had something like 20,000 pounds of imbalance force at 7000 rpm before the machinist did his magic!

So did you run a ball hone through the cylinders or just wipe them down and drop the pistons and rods in?
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Old 09-04-2012, 07:57 PM   #25 (permalink)
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The Forged Manley's are by far the best on the market, we offer a great piston and rod combo rated up to 1000 rwhp for only $1149, we have brand new shortblocks with the same internals for just $4199, these are also good up to 1000HP and have a 1 year warranty. For the High HP application (1500+) the Manley Billets are suggested, this is also the rod we use on our new 1800+HP coyote race engine.

Another option for those looking is our forged rebuild special, this is $1999 and you send in your block and crank and get back a MMR 1000, fully machined, balanced and blueprinted with a 1 year warranty. This includes all machine work to your block, Digital balancing, Manley Forged H beam Rods with ARP hardware and Manley Forged Pistons. Finally they are assembled with Total Seal Rings and Clevite Bearings. We can send our freight company to pick up your engine also so that you dont have to mess with the shipping companies.

Let us know how we can help!

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