More like $7k. I dont know what he does for work, but if he can swing that and take care of kids and house at the same time I want in
Any one can do it if you budget well. I used to buy brand name shoes for like 140, pants over 100, sunglass over 300, shirts 90+ eat in fancy place costing 2-500 bucks places like Picaso here in las vegas, go to clubs and spends 100-200 bucks like water every weeks.
Now I have change as now a family man , I give a shit about big brand name, I don't go out and buy 100+ shoes , sunglasses , or eat in too fancy places.
I work in sales and was good living but after our economy went down every one is suffering and me
If you make good money or even ok money , budget and buy what's needed you can save over 1000 a month easy. Only thing I spend money on is my car , other then that I am ok with wearing under 100 shoes, tshirt under 30, paints I still wear as jeans last forever goes to buffet to eat twice a month instead of going to redlobster e.t.c
I have change a lot as being father , family man. I rather buy daipers, baby milk then buy something for me. I even quite smoking cold turkey , was been smoking since I was 16. It's been smoke free for 18 months and don't look back. Wow now I smell good better and can smell stinky smokers for miles away Everyone will change some day and now it' my time.
let's all hope and pray that our economy came back to where it was where we can eat, play without worrying about our job, ,money, house e.t.c
Thank you all
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2002 Mustang gt with on 3 performance single turbo MPT70
Last edited by 2002mustanggt; 11-01-2009 at 01:32 AM.
Any one can do it if you budget well. I used to buy brand name shoes for like 140, pants over 100, sunglass over 300, shirts 90+ eat in fancy place costing 2-500 bucks places like Picaso here in las vegas, go to clubs and spends 100-200 bucks like water every weeks.
Now I have change as now a family man , I give a shit about big brand name, I don't go out and buy 100+ shoes , sunglasses , or eat in too fancy places.
I work in sales and was good living but after our economy went down every one is suffering and me
If you make good money or even ok money , budget and buy what's needed you can save over 1000 a month easy. Only thing I spend money on is my car , other then that I am ok with wearing under 100 shoes, tshirt under 30, paints I still wear as jeans last forever goes to buffet to eat twice a month instead of going to redlobster e.t.c
I have change a lot as being father , family man. I rather buy daipers, baby milk then buy something for me. I even quite smoking cold turkey , was been smoking since I was 16. It's been smoke free for 18 months and don't look back. Wow now I smell good better and can smell stinky smokers for miles away Everyone will change some day and now it' my time.
let's all hope and pray that our economy came back to where it was where we can eat, play without worrying about our job, ,money, house e.t.c
Thank you all
In that case, props to you. Sounds like you are taking care of the important stuff first and saving what you can to have some fun. No harm in that.
Good luck with you build, I hope everything works out the way it should (it sounds like it will).
In that case, props to you. Sounds like you are taking care of the important stuff first and saving what you can to have some fun. No harm in that.
Good luck with you build, I hope everything works out the way it should (it sounds like it will).
Thank you for your kind words and thank you for understanding. If my buddy Frank didn't offer me this help with motor build , I was just going to get use motor and sell the car , get suv and forget about racing . I rather spend time with my little one watching disney cartoons then working alone on my car busting knuckles bleeding
So let me get this straight. This kit minus a k-member is about 2K give or take with the MP T70 upgrade?? I need to see someone run this on a Terminator or built motor 99-01. This is very tempting but I need unbiased info from a real world user. I might have to be all over this.
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98 Eclipse GSX T3/T4 60 trim etc.. SOLD
2004 STI SOLD
2001 SLP SS #1509 (formerly owned by SLP)233/239 112lsa Cam, Boltons, Susp. CCW SP16A's. SOLD 10/22/08
2003 Silver 10th Anniversary Cobra. 2.93 upper, 2# lower, O/R Prochamber, polished Borla Stingers, K&N FIPK, Metco billet idlers, MGW Orange, Gords dual pass heat exchanger, H&R Race Springs. 19" Satin black True Forged Chicane RS
ive been thinking about getting this get and slapping a Bullseye S380 on it, or gt4788....i dont know though just thinking about it! anyone want to buy and F1A? lol
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2003 Zinc Yellow Cobra #3636 of #8394 -ALIVE-
9.4:1 Comp Built Motor, Big Nasty Cog Drive Procharger 25psig
1991 Toyota MR2 Turbo -Beater-
BOV, Aftermarket IC,Intake, Exhaust, Boost Controller, 3in Downpipe. My Myspace http://www.myspace.com/clardy
ive been thinking about getting this get and slapping a Bullseye S380 on it, or gt4788....i dont know though just thinking about it! anyone want to buy and F1A? lol
how much you looking to get for it. PM me with details. Custom setup I am guessing.
I would hope your builder doesn't go too low on the compression. Turbos, like centrifugal superchargers, like things to be around 9:4-9:6.1 compression.
Anything in the 8 range, low compression, is happier in a twin screw environment, I believe, due to the nature of the harshness of the boost.
not sure where you get your info. harshness of the boost? maybe because a twinscrew produces a lot more heat sitting on top of a motor? either way it's all relative, lower compression enables you to in turn run more boost on lower octane. i can run 15psi on 91 pump gas where as other's with 9-1 compression can only get away with say 10psi on my same set up. ill take 5psi over .5 compression point any day of the week...
Quote:
Originally Posted by NV2L8ULUZ
Wow, I had a bit of insomnia this morning and was browsing this forum and found this thread and another thread that got me pretty aggravated. I've never read any of Suresh's posts until today, and he really makes me look like a f'n idiot. I am the guy doing all the work on Suresh'es car. I'm noone special, and I have a small shop in Vegas. Because I do run a small business I don't have much time for myself, nor internet forums. When I do have time
I'm not on SVTp much, because I hang out alot more over in Modfords but I'm pretty shocked at the disrespect on some of the posts in these threads. I would never disrespect anyone else on any internet forum especially because I really don't know who they are and what they know but there seems to be a lot more disrespect over here than any other forum I've been on.
To answer your question on the Pmas from the other thread, I'm not dogging Pmas, I'm just more familiar with SCT Meters and Mafias and that's what I like to tune with because I can get the car dialed in alot more quickly and efficiently. If you guys like Pmas, that's fine. It's everyone's opinon anyways. The fact of the matter is, regardless of the electronics, it's the tuner's job to get the car to run right. Getting driveability right, have good tip in response and target the WOT Air/fuel to where you want it. I have hundreds of hours into my customers cars with SCT meters and Mafias so that's what I'd prefer.
Plain and simple. If you're tuner like Pmas, that's awesome. Good for him.
I use SCT software to tune, so when I run their meters I enter it in, and it skews the injectors high and low slope, and air mass displacement for one cylinder and intake volume accordingly. Mafia does the same thing but I have to enter it manually vs. the SCT Meters where the software automatically does it for me. The Pmas doesn't give me data like how much to reduce each thing by so I'm stuck with decreasing air mass cylinder displacement to get the car on the map when commanded air fuel is 14.7 to 1 at idle and the mass air slopes are correct at idle for the injector size. It's just more time consuming for me that's all! Nobody else in town wanted to touch the PMas meter but I took the Pepsi challege. Heck, I took the extra time and made it right and didn't charge him anymore money. When the car left, it made 430 rwhp at 8 lbs with a flat line air fuel of 11.0 at a extremely conservative timing of 13 degrees. The car ran great and he raced it until the vacuum line that connects to the vacuum block that extends to the fuel rail pressure sensor blew off. That caused a massive leanout because the calculated fuel rail pressure is now off by 8 psi.
I didn't install or endorse the turbo kit and I honestly donot believe it's my fault that the engine blew because of my tuning. Any forced induction engine would be a victim of leanout in this situation. As you know he's having a second child soon so he asked me for help. He's extremely short on money and wanted to know if he can make installments to get him back on the road because it's his daily driver. I've known him for a few years and I felt bad for him. I told him that I will work on his car on my spare time. He told me for helping him, he will go out and advertise my business. However, it's hard to advertise someone when you don't know much about cars. Which is why I'm making this long post in the first place!
Back to the point.
At the time we started the build, he only wanted to make reliable power with the power he had. I had a customer that had a low mileage CHP 5.0 stroker shortblock that he was going to sell the guy for next to nothing. I figure it'd be a decent rotating assembly for the power that he was making (400-500rwhp). It was either that or put a stock engine back in. So I asked him if he'd rather have something that was alittle better than a stock engine. He said "of course" to having some that was a bit better. I wasn't sure on the exact history of the rotating assembly so I decided (on my own merit) to rebuild it for him. I knew he was going to beat on it, and I honestly wouldn't want him to go through this again (anytime soon). When I took it apart, and miced the pistons, I noticed a few of the pistons had skirts that were starting to collapse so I decided (on my own merit) to buy him some new pistons. I chose Probes over everything else because the CHP stroker rotating assembly came with a 6" Rod and a .927 pin. JE/CP/Diamond/Manley doesn't offer anything like this on the shelf, so that's what I had to work with.
I don't care what anyone says but there is no way that a 2618 Probe Piston is worse than a factory hypereutectic cast piston. Heck, I don't think a 4032 Probe Piston is worse than a factory piston. People that do...well... I guess they're the one with some learning to do (in response to someone telling me that I'm an idiot in the other thread). Then there were a post where people pushed Manleys over the Probes. I personally don't like Manley AS MUCH AS JE's/CP/Diamonds. I like how the big 3 have more underhead thickness and the ring pack is moved further down but I do think a Manley is machined a bit nicer than a Probe but if I'm going to spend the extra money, I'd rather go with the big 3. Case and point. I might have considered a Manley for him but they don't offer a piston with the right Compression Distance on the shelf!
I understand JE/CP/Diamonds make custom pistons and they're better. Heck I've only ran JE's in my customer's and my cars for the last few years religiously! I recently switched over to Diamonds because they're the only vendor at the time that had pistons for of my Boss 5.0 block on the shelf when I was doing my build for it.
Back to the point again.
It cost money...signifigantly more than what he has to budget. I told him, for the power level he wanted, it would be redundant to have a JE/CP/Diamond when you can't pay for it anyways. It may offer a bit more margin of safety but for the target power level at the time, I don't think it was needed. I rather have him keep the extra $300-400 dollars in his pocket for diapers!
I'm going to be discreet on how much he's paying but I can guarantee that nobody else would've R&Red his engine, supplied a new engine and retune it for the cost I charged him (remember, it's being paid in installments as well which doesn't spend the same). Because of the situation, I spent money out of my own pocket to put new pistons/rings/bearings in this CHP short block so he can have a 100% fresh motor. Instead of a thanks, I get bombarded with texts on how he wants to make 500rwhp, 600rwhp, 700,rwhp, 800rwhp to wanting a dyno queen now. And that the CHP 5.0 stroker won't do it for him. For someone that's never built horsepower before, it's quite odd that 600horsepower is only 1 key stroke away from 500.
Heck, wouldn't it be nice if it were that easy? If you were in my position, you'd be aggravated to with "the people on the internet say..." texts too.
Then he texts he telling me how bad he wants Manley pistons. So I cancelled my order with CHP, told my customer that he didn't want it, reassembled the motor and gave it back. Free motor build for that customer. Then I sourced out someone in town that was selling a MMR 950 Longblock, and convinced him to sell me the shortblock because it has Manley Components like he wanted and that's that. I took the motor all the way down and I miced everything, it all looks good. So I had the plates thrown on the block, put on the hone real quick, straighten the cylinders, filed a new set of rings, micro-polish the crank and put in some fresh bearings and into the Mustang it goes...(after the two customer's cars that are in front of him are finished)...I don't know anyone else, let alone another shop that would've done this for him. But that's what's up. For those that are curious it should be done and tuned the week after the SEMA show (my car is being displayed in one of the booths so I took the week off to be there at the convention to check the show out).
But to answer your quote about the compression ratio. I CCed the head, the chambers are about 42ccs, Pistons are 3.572" in diameter, 3.75" stroke, .036 compressed head gasket thickness, a 3.625" head gasket bore, -28cc dish in the piston and the piston sits in the hole .011. So to answer your question, it's about 8.9 to 1 Compression which will allow him plenty of room with 91 octane at 13psi of boost that he wants to run. I've spent too long typing this. I'm heading back to bed.
dont let turds on the internet get to you, most of them are probably 14 and live in the basement with their parents.
Quote:
Originally Posted by 1Sick2Valve
Well thanks for the clarifications. His motor sounds almost exactly like mine. I'm sure he'll be happy and it sounds like youve gone more than out of your way for him. However in our defense no one meant disrespect to you, as you can see we only had his side of the story and not much info to go on.
this guy...
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"He who fights with monsters might take care lest he thereby become a monster" http://www.revvwear.com/
About the compression ratio... I think the guy means "don't go too low on compression " because with a centri the motor is going to lack boost at lower rpms, which in turn will lack power and torque. More comperssion would help get things moving off the line.. You'll see a lot of different opinions about this.. One thing you might want to consider though, is that by having a lower comprsesion ratio, you will probably run a more agressive pulley combo on the blower. You'll also gain boost at lower rpms by doing this as well. The only way you'd known which setup worked best would be to try both at the track The higher boost setup will make more peak power, but might not cut better ET's.
you fork out the cash and i'll watch
NV2L8ULUZ , Looks like your a stand up guy to me.. You've done far more than shops in my local area would..
People are going to hate no matter what you do.. just move past it
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Neil Goodin
03' DSG cobra coupe - Currently under the knife
03' procharged GT (sold to girl)
06' ninja 636 speedydyno.com
Last edited by Quicktime_GT; 11-17-2009 at 12:31 PM.
I'm sorry, but any company that begins thier rationalization for why they haven't fully developed a product for a specific vehicle but are selling it for that car with the comment below is not getting my money.
Check out the ebay link and look at their details for 96-98 Cobras...
"Here is the deal, the next choice going turbo on your car is $6,000+ and this will still allow you to keep on budget."
And if it is only a couple of hours of work as they say why don't they get off of their lazy ass and make it right so the kit bolts on without any special modifications needing to be done.
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1996 Crystal White Cobra - Bolt Ons
I'm sorry, but any company that begins thier rationalization for why they haven't fully developed a product for a specific vehicle but are selling it for that car with the comment below is not getting my money.
Check out the ebay link and look at their details for 96-98 Cobras...
"Here is the deal, the next choice going turbo on your car is $6,000+ and this will still allow you to keep on budget."
And if it is only a couple of hours of work as they say why don't they get off of their lazy ass and make it right so the kit bolts on without any special modifications needing to be done.
I have a Hellion and I spent way more time fixing all of the "little" crap then I ever did on the actual installation!!!The actual cold and hot side piping fit really well...as long as you don't care about all the heat your exposing your accessories to!!
If your planning on keeping stuff like EGR, PS & A/C the installation gets way more involved. This is NOT a supercharger installation, heat is your enemy so get as much clearance on everything as you can and insulate the tubing...or completely half-ass it and pay the price later!!!
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NEW SETUP: 12.21 @ 118.92mph. (no traction) Hellion 62mm Single Turbo @ 9-10psi. NA SVT Short Runner Intake, IMRC deletes, UD pullies, timing adjuster, Meziere WP, Bassani Quiet Thunder w/cats, 4.10's, AL driveshaft, 315/35/17 BFG DR's. Lasota Racing Tuned.
OLD SETUP: 12.261 @ 112.75 447rwhp/439rwt @ 6psi. Hellion 62mm Single Turbo @ 6psi. IMRC deletes, UD pullies, timing adjuster, Meziere WP, Bassani Quiet Thunder w/cats, 4.10's, AL driveshaft, 315/35/17 BFG DR's.
About the compression ratio... I think the guy means "don't go too low on compression " because with a centri the motor is going to lack boost at lower rpms, which in turn will lack power and torque. More comperssion would help get things moving off the line.. You'll see a lot of different opinions about this.. One thing you might want to consider though, is that by having a lower comprsesion ratio, you will probably run a more agressive pulley combo on the blower. You'll also gain boost at lower rpms by doing this as well. The only way you'd known which setup worked best would be to try both at the track The higher boost setup will make more peak power, but might not cut better ET's.
Exactly what I meant. Alot of the 2003-2004 Cobra guys tend to not go centri or turbo as a replacement on their stock motor because of the too low compression for the setup. Kills the low end and requires more boost to make the same power a moderate compression motor would make with less boost.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OutLaw99
a constitutional right to video tape? LOL....where is that in the constitution
goes to buffet to eat twice a month instead of going to redlobster e.t.c
Everyone will change some day and now it' my time. 
I guess they're the one with some learning to do (in response to someone telling me that I'm an idiot in the other thread). Then there were a post where people pushed Manleys over the Probes. I personally don't like Manley AS MUCH AS JE's/CP/Diamonds. I like how the big 3 have more underhead thickness and the ring pack is moved further down but I do think a Manley is machined a bit nicer than a Probe but if I'm going to spend the extra money, I'd rather go with the big 3. Case and point. I might have considered a Manley for him but they don't offer a piston with the right Compression Distance on the shelf!
If you were in my position, you'd be aggravated to with "the people on the internet say..." texts too.
Then I sourced out someone in town that was selling a MMR 950 Longblock, and convinced him to sell me the shortblock because it has Manley Components like he wanted and that's that. I took the motor all the way down and I miced everything, it all looks good. So I had the plates thrown on the block, put on the hone real quick, straighten the cylinders, filed a new set of rings, micro-polish the crank and put in some fresh bearings and into the Mustang it goes...(after the two customer's cars that are in front of him are finished
)...I don't know anyone else, let alone another shop that would've done this for him. But that's what's up. For those that are curious it should be done and tuned the week after the SEMA show (my car is being displayed in one of the booths so I took the week off to be there at the convention to check the show out).
I've spent too long typing this. I'm heading back to bed.
Linear Mode
