Hey guys I am planning a build for a 99-01 cobra. I plan to build the motor bottom up, any long blocks? I want to push 1000+rwhp with a turbo setup on it, looking to spend $10-15,000 on the motor. Thinking Hellion unless someone else has a suggestion?
I don't know a lot about forced induction but I do know where I want the car to be at. Going to go to a solid rear axle in the car, pretty much gonna be a roller if I can find one, if not a high mile car, convertible. I have a transmission guy that can do a transmission for me, so basically what I need is a place to start researching about the long block for the most part, fuel system, and whatnot. Just in the very beginning phases yet but have an overall idea of what I want.
look this is the only way to go..i have spent over 50k dollars in my car. parts and labor alone....what i have learned is that......are you ready ????? put a freaking twin turbo 5.4 when it comes to mod motors and good power, it's all about cubic inch..call mmr and get a short block thats already built...it comes with some kind of warrenty...and thats a good thing when it comes to these motors....
$$$$$$$$$$$$$$ 2299.00 $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$
MMR 5.4 Street Mod 900 (up to 900HP) 2V, 3V or 4V
*Cast Iron 5.4. Block Block
*New 4340 Forged 4.165 stroke Crankshaft w/micro polished journals at no extra charge
*New 4340 6.658 Manley H-beam Rods ( These US made rods are shotpeened, magnafluxed and weight matched to bring you the finest H-beam rod available for your 5.4
*New Forged Manley pistons (High or low compression)
*Speed Pro file fit rings (precision file fit to your application, nitrous, blower, turbo or N/A)
*Speed Pro/Federal Mogul Rod and Main bearings
*Complete Pro Assembly and Balancing for the smoothest, highest revving shortblock available, Pre-Lubricated with Royal Purple Assembly Lube and spin tested. Lastly 3 technicians sign off on your new engine prior to packaging and crating.
Twin 76's is twin 2000hp with of turbos. I think you would be fine with twin 67's that would put down more then enough. Twin 76's would take forever to spool unless its only a drag car.
Hey guys I am planning a build for a 99-01 cobra. I plan to build the motor bottom up, any long blocks? I want to push 1000+rwhp with a turbo setup on it, looking to spend $10-15,000 on the motor. Thinking Hellion unless someone else has a suggestion?
I don't know a lot about forced induction but I do know where I want the car to be at. Going to go to a solid rear axle in the car, pretty much gonna be a roller if I can find one, if not a high mile car, convertible. I have a transmission guy that can do a transmission for me, so basically what I need is a place to start researching about the long block for the most part, fuel system, and whatnot. Just in the very beginning phases yet but have an overall idea of what I want.
Quote:
Originally Posted by XtremeS10
I am looking more in the way of doing an aluminator style setup with a hellion kit twin 76's
It sounds just like what everybody says and you have all of these crazy numbers and plans written down, yet you seem to have no clue what you're doing. Why would you want to run twin 76mm turbos only to make 1000rwhp?
Coming from someone who has put together turbo cars before, just keep it as simple as possible. I would go to MMR, get their "MMR 4.6 Race Mod 1100hp" shortblock and throw a set of '03-'04 cobra heads on it with some cams.
For a turbo, if you're really set on "1000+rwhp" I would go with a GT47-88 and you'll be set. Or you could go to Bullseye Performance and they could also spec a very nice turbo out for you to make the power you want. There are plenty of good options, but I would stay away from twin 76s.
As for transmissions, you're probably going to want to look into a TH400 or Glide with a brake, as they will be the only things that will be lasting for long behind that much power other than spending a ton of money on a bullet-proof T56 and McLeod twin disc only to have it still run 12s at the track.
Whatever you think you plan on spending to get this car running properly, take that figure and add thousands of more dollars to that budget because when you build something like this the small odds and ends will add up before you know it. I would say to really build a true 1000+rwhp setup that doesn't break parts every pass and is d one right and safe is going to cost you $30-40k+ not including the price of the car.
Remember, aside from the obvious engine/trans/rear/suspension, you'll be needing a certified cage, chute, harnesses, tuning, and so many little odds and ends that it'll add up before you realize it and a ton of time to actually put the pieces together AFTER you have it all figured out and ordered parts.
I think it sounds like you still have a ton of planning and learning to do before you go through with this build. The worst thing you can do is start something like this that you have no clue about and end up buying parts twice because you didn't get the right stuff or when lose interest because it's been over a year just working on it and you've lost interest because it's still not done (like many people do...trust me). People who think all they need is a shortblock, trans and rear strong enough to handle the power with a fuel system are the ones who sell their half finished projects for a fraction of the money they spent on parts. Just make sure you know what you're getting in to when you say you really want a real 1,000rwhp car and you're going to build it from scratch.
Not trying to piss in your cheerios, but I'm just offering some good advice from someone who has done what you're thinking about doing and figured I'd throw in my useless $.02.
Last edited by 61mmstang94; 10-31-2009 at 01:48 PM.
Like I said I'm open to suggestions and haven't heard back from Hellion yet either, I am trying to get away without having to have a custom turbo setup build which is why I was learning toward the 4.6 over the 5.4. If the 5.4l will work I have no problem with it, just trying to see what I can do on a smaller budget vs some of the wild cars out there
^^^^I agreed it takes some serious planning to make a 1000 rwhp car that will perform well without problem (less problem I would say since you have that kind of HP, something is going to break).
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590 rwhp and 505 rwtqr SAE last dyno with retuned, 5.1 stroker + Paxton Novi 2000 IC and more.....
03 GT vert, CAI, 70mm T-Body, UD pulleys, FRPP shortys headers, Bassani x with Cats, Bassani C/B and 3.73 gears. My DD.
You have all of these crazy numbers written down, yet you seem to have no clue what you're doing. Why would you want to run twin 76mm turbos only to make 1000rwhp?
Coming from someone who has put together turbo cars before, just keep it as simple as possible. I would go to MMR, get their "MMR 4.6 Race Mod 1100hp" shortblock and throw a set of '03-'04 cobra heads on it with some cams.
For a turbo, if you're really set on "1000+rwhp" I would go with a GT47-88 and you'll be set. Or you could go to Bullseye Performance and they could also spec a very nice turbo out for you to make the power you want. There are plenty of good options, but I would stay away from twin 76s.
As for transmissions, you're probably going to want to look into a TH400 or Glide with a brake, as they will be the only things that will be lasting for long behind that much power other than spending a ton of money on a bullet-proof T56 and McLeod twin disc only to have it still run 12s at the track.
Whatever you think you plan on spending to get this car running properly, take that figure and add thousands of more dollars to that budget because when you build something like this the small odds and ends will add up before you know it. I would say to really build a true 1000+rwhp setup that doesn't break parts every pass and is d one right and safe is going to cost you $30-40k+ not including the price of the car.
Remember, aside from the obvious engine/trans/rear/suspension, you'll be needing a certified cage, chute, harnesses, tuning, and so many little odds and ends that it'll add up before you realize it and a ton of time to actually put the pieces together AFTER you have it all figured out and ordered parts.
I think it sounds like you still have a ton of planning and learning to do before you go through with this build. The worst thing you can do is start something like this that you have no clue about and end up buying parts twice because you didn't get the right stuff or when lose interest because it's been over a year just working on it and you've lost interest because it's still not done (like many people do...trust me). People who think all they need is a shortblock, trans and rear strong enough to handle the power with a fuel system are the ones who sell their half finished projects for a fraction of the money they spent on parts. Just make sure you know what you;re getting in to when you say you really want a real 1,000rwhp car and you're going to build it from scratch.
Like I said its my first time and thats why I am doing the research before I go jumping into anything. Like I said I gave my figures and what I saw from other people and I am working from there. If I'm off like I said, tell me. I have the trans and the fuel and diff covered, rossler is going to take care of the transmission and being that one of his transmissions just went a 5.xx at 245 miles I don't think I will be breaking it any time soon. The diff is going to be done by a guy who has done hundreds of 7-8 second cars over the years and he knows what he is doing in that manner as well as fuel systems. Believe me, I already have a drag vehicle as well as my dad, like I said, he wants to buy my truck off me and I won't have anything to run, which is the start of this project.
Like I said its my first time and thats why I am doing the research before I go jumping into anything. Like I said I gave my figures and what I saw from other people and I am working from there. If I'm off like I said, tell me. I have the trans and the fuel and diff covered, rossler is going to take care of the transmission and being that one of his transmissions just went a 5.xx at 245 miles I don't think I will be breaking it any time soon. The diff is going to be done by a guy who has done hundreds of 7-8 second cars over the years and he knows what he is doing in that manner as well as fuel systems. Believe me, I already have a drag vehicle as well as my dad, like I said, he wants to buy my truck off me and I won't have anything to run, which is the start of this project.
Well, then good luck to you, it sounds like you have it figured out...but if I could offer any advice, I'd go with a single turbo like an 88mm rather than those twin 76s.
Last edited by 61mmstang94; 10-31-2009 at 01:57 PM.
Well, then good luck to you, it sounds like you have it figured out...but if I could offer any advice, I'd go with a single turbo like an 88mm rather than those twin 76s.
Thats really what I am looking for. I know very little about FI, everything I am used to is NA so working with FI is throwing me through a loop.
Twin 76's is twin 2000hp with of turbos. I think you would be fine with twin 67's that would put down more then enough. Twin 76's would take forever to spool unless its only a drag car.
Agreed. Overkill.
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Beauty: all stock
Beast: built shortblock,ported heads,blower cams,2.3L twin screw,etc,etc
2-2001 Bullitts
Well the more and more I am talking to people everyone is saying its much more worth my time to build my shelby for a hellion kit, a few guys pushing over 1000 horse to the wheels with only a short block, clutch, and 9" rear end...
Well the more and more I am talking to people everyone is saying its much more worth my time to build my shelby for a hellion kit, a few guys pushing over 1000 horse to the wheels with only a short block, clutch, and 9" rear end...
Now that would be sick to turbo your Shelby, but is 1,000rwhp pushing the stock trans and/or shortblock?
Either way, I say turbo your Shelby to make as much power as it can safely take on the stock trans and engine and that would be one sick car.
If you want to go 7's it will cost alot, 8's will cost alot too. You could go low 9's with a GT42R-76mm on a stock cobra motor in a notch and have it be streetable as hell with a built lentech 4r70w. If your going for a street car or a drag car theres two entirely different setups and theres also a hybred of both that will do decent on the street and the track.
the stock trans can take it, have to put a p trim clutch in, 9" rear, and do a built short block to hold around 30lbs of boost from twin 61's
I say go for it. It'll be easier to build than starting from scratch with a 99-01 cobra (or whatever else you might have used) and it'll be a little different because you don't see as many turbo GT500s as opposed to the older Mustangs.
I say go for it. It'll be easier to build than starting from scratch with a 99-01 cobra (or whatever else you might have used) and it'll be a little different because you don't see as many turbo GT500s as opposed to the older Mustangs.
I am talking to another guy on this forum, he went 9.98 on a drag radial at 148mph in a twin turbo gt500. Twin 61mm pushing 22lbs of boost made over 1000 at the wheels. I will end up with a slick though. From what he was saying all he did was a 9", short block, and clutch. I'll need a cage of course, and have to go to a different wheel than my CCW's which means changing my front brakes.
my advice like another's above is keep it simple.
you don't need a stroker, or the larger 5.4 at all.
let the turbo(s) make the power. if you go with twins go with some 61's so they are still streetable, anything bigger in a twin will be terrible street wise.
if your going to go single go with a garret as described above or a borg warner s380, i run the s380 and on 12-13psi run doors with a friend whom has twin 61's on 15psi, his motor is stroked with worked heads etc, my motor is stock displacement with a very built bottom end, stock b heads, stock b intake.
an auto will get you down the track a lot easier and a lot faster than a manual but imo if its a street car i say stay with a stick and work the time's down.
DO NOT skimp on the important parts. pistons, rods, arp everywhere, NICE turbo(s) not ebay junk make all the difference in the world, good fuel system, tranny, axles, rear dif, pretty much set.
i say build the bottom end, save your money from all the head work and stroker kits and use that money on high quality turbo parts, and let the boost make the power.
im into my entire build $11,300 including all motor, turbo, tranny, and fuel system and will put down 1000 horse with room to spare...
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"He who fights with monsters might take care lest he thereby become a monster" http://www.revvwear.com/
thats the setup I am looking at. Looking for a built shortblock for my car, I have the clutch picked out, driveshaft, and rear end covered. Ill need wheels and tires, and someone to tune it, but I am fairly sure this is the right setup for me with 61's would it be worth while going to a ball bearing setup as well?
thats the setup I am looking at. Looking for a built shortblock for my car, I have the clutch picked out, driveshaft, and rear end covered. Ill need wheels and tires, and someone to tune it, but I am fairly sure this is the right setup for me with 61's would it be worth while going to a ball bearing setup as well?
i would have to think of JJ at woodbine should be relatively close to your home town. he is the only person i let touch my lightning
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