Once again though the only parts that really make that 5.8L engine unique are the intake, headers and valve covers. The rest is a standard 5.8L marine engine with standard GT-40 heads. There is nothing that REALLY distingushes this engine as being positively 1 of the 255 engines once it's in a car. And besides as a museum piece would anyone even care? If I was to put that engine in a car I'd still have a number of unique Cobra R parts missing. If I was going to duplicate that engine I'd pay $1000-$1500 for an intake (if I didn't just turn a 94-95 Cobra intake into one), buy a set of Hooker Saleen headers (pretty much the same without the EGR connection which could be added if absolutely needed) and a set of 94-95 valve covers modified with a longer oil filler neck. Then I'd buy a set of GT-40 heads for $300-$400 and a 5.8L rebuilt shortblock for about $1000-$1500. There's probably another $500 in misc parts on that engine. So total would be about $4500 tops (that's being EXTREMELY conservative).
I agree with all of the above^^^^^^, however, the purist and I'm sure you know many of them in the MCA world, would not be interested in anything but correct dates, correct part numbers, correct tags, etc. Yes parts could be put together and some parts modified to "create" what we see in this 95R engine auction, and it could be done for relatively little money, but the person who wants a "Roush spec'ed" 95R 5.8L for their 95R with all of the correct original dates, parts, etc., this is the person who will pull out the big $$$ for something like this. We are talking about an engine that is new, never been fired, so to build something in comparision we would have to go to a boat place, buy a new marine 5.8L shortblock, buy new 5.8L GT40 heads, the Crane roller rockers, the 95R cam, find an upper and lower, a set of headers that would be "correct 95R" etc. That is what someone would have bought if they would have met reserve on this eBay engine, new and all correct. FWIW, I did stop by Marine Supply, a local boat dealer, a bare block 5.8L w/cam bearings is approx. $1800, a shortblock assy. w/oil pan is approx. $3800. If you add all of the other parts, let's say a $1000 for the upper, because that is realistically where they are now, then the lower, a new set of cast iron GT40 heads, the dist., the headers, the correct valve covers, a flywheel, bellhousing, oil cooler adapter, injectors, wire harness, T.B., NOS EGR valve etc. I'll bet the price would be well within the price range I quoted $6K-$7.5K. This would be a 5.8 95R replica that would not have any "good dates", and probably not correct parts numbers in comparision to an original 95R. The shortblock would also be assembled to marine specs instead of Roush Technologies specs. But we would be comparing "new vs. new".
In the end, I really don't know that you could build that eBay engine with all new parts for $6K+, and it be of the same "new" spec. as the one offered that did not meet reserve. We have not even mentioned the hours to track down all of these correct parts.
This 95R engine would be real neat in the 93R that was recently purchased for the mid teens with no original 5.0L. Would a 5.8L, like this eBay engine fit into the 93 Cobra engine compartment with the 95R headers and intake? That would be cool to open the hood of an original 93R and see a 95R engine transplant.
You're making a huge assumption that you can drop that engine in and have it fire right up after 12 years!
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Mark Wilson
93 Cobra #1824
93 Cobra R #84
95 Cobra R #39
95 Cobra R #136
Mystery Vehicle www.on-trackperformance.com
You're making a huge assumption that you can drop that engine in and have it fire right up after 12 years!
True^^^^^^^, but even if it did need freshening, at least it is all there to reassemble. To be honest, I doubt that it would fire right up, I wouldn't chance damaging something. I would think that to be safe at least the heads should be removed to inspect the cylinder walls, probably pull the pan also. It would be a shame to go through all of the trouble to install the engine and then have to take it right back out, but like I said, at least it is all there to start with.
Did you notice the engine lift bracket bolted to the front drivers side in the turned-down position. I would guess that bracket is not an easy item to come by, as it is usually removed when the accessory bracket is installed. I also noticed the engine lift bracket on the right rear. Is that bracket left on the 95R engines? I have not noticed it on mine, but I have not looked for it.
You're making a huge assumption that you can drop that engine in and have it fire right up after 12 years!
Mark - One other assumption I have is that it is infact a complete engine and not just for display. What if it is for display only, and does not have rods, pistons, cam or any valve train, but instead is a bare block with a crank and bare cyl. heads with valve covers bolted on top? and then all of the other items attached on the outside to make it look like a complete assy. for display. WOW!! That would change things!! LOL
True^^^^^^^, but even if it did need freshening, at least it is all there to reassemble. To be honest, I doubt that it would fire right up, I wouldn't chance damaging something. I would think that to be safe at least the heads should be removed to inspect the cylinder walls, probably pull the pan also. It would be a shame to go through all of the trouble to install the engine and then have to take it right back out, but like I said, at least it is all there to start with.
Did you notice the engine lift bracket bolted to the front drivers side in the turned-down position. I would guess that bracket is not an easy item to come by, as it is usually removed when the accessory bracket is installed. I also noticed the engine lift bracket on the right rear. Is that bracket left on the 95R engines? I have not noticed it on mine, but I have not looked for it.
R
Sitting like that, and cars that sit in garages for long periods of time, with the engine in one possition with some valves open, lose pressure. Plus the valve seats get moisture on them, so when you would start it, it would beat the rust (from the moisture) into the seats and not seal well.
I would, at minimum, replace the valve springs or at least check them for proper pressure. Someone could look through the exhaust port to see if the valves and seats need touching up. Didn't all these 252 or 255 engines receive the "HOT" test from Roush? If this one did, there should be a little exhuast carbon also.
Another thing to think about. What if this engine didn't meet the Roush spec's?
I wouldn't put any engine in my car that has been sitting, without disassembly and inspection.
FWIW
A little more than the usual $.02. Oh well.
____________________________________
"R"s ROCK,
Gene Boc.
'95R never professionally raced #142/250
'95R ex IMSA race car (retired professionally) #57/250 1st '95R sold to the public
Sitting like that, and cars that sit in garages for long periods of time, with the engine in one possition with some valves open, lose pressure. Plus the valve seats get moisture on them, so when you would start it, it would beat the rust (from the moisture) into the seats and not seal well.
I would, at minimum, replace the valve springs or at least check them for proper pressure. Someone could look through the exhaust port to see if the valves and seats need touching up. Didn't all these 252 or 255 engines receive the "HOT" test from Roush? If this one did, there should be a little exhuast carbon also.
Another thing to think about. What if this engine didn't meet the Roush spec's?
I wouldn't put any engine in my car that has been sitting, without disassembly and inspection.
FWIW
A little more than the usual $.02. Oh well.
Depending upon how long the current owner has owned it, I would guess that this engine has spent most of its life in a humidity controlled, a/c showroom/display area. Hopefully, this lack of humidity "should" have kept this engine from rust/oxidation issues. From what I can see in the eBay pictures, the items that are natural aluminum do not show signs of oxidation and the few natural metal items that are not painted/coated do not show rust. Since these items are not showing signs of improper storage, I can only guess that it has been in a humidity controlled environment, at least until its current storage. But is it in fact a complete engine assy.? I do agree that it does need closer internal verification of condition before it would be ready to install.
I wouldn't put any engine in my car that has been sitting, without disassembly and inspection.
I agree, Gene.
Quote:
This engine was on display at the plant,it is new and it was never used in any of the 250 Cobra R cars that were built.
I'll assume that this engine was built for display purposes. It never had any lubricants (except possibly assembly lubricants). The rings have been pressed against the cylinder walls for 12 years (in the same position). The pistons will need to be carefully removed and new rings installed. The cylinder walls need to be inspected.
I would just replace the valve springs. They've been under pressure in one position for 12 years. By the time you remove and test them, you could just install a fresh set.
I'd fill the oil pan with oil and pump in oil (via the oil pump at the bottom of the distributor) before I even broke the engine apart.
The aluminum pieces have been bolted to the iron pieces for 12 years. I am not a metallurgist, but I know this can cause reactions which need inspections.
The orphan engine didn't sell at $4850. I wouldn't have bid $2500. Why buy an orphan engine for that money when you can buy an entire 1 of 250 car for ~$24K?
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Doc
1995 Cobra R #113
1994 Cobra (the car I ordered new) #3908
1965 Mustang FIA vintage road race car, torch red
2004 F350 SD XLT Sport V10 4X4 SC SRW 3:73LS
2010 Mustang GT w/ Track Pack, torch red
1973 Porsche 911 2.7L, 5-speed
1971 Porsche 911, red race car
The orphan engine didn't sell at $4850. I wouldn't have bid $2500. Why buy an orphan engine for that money when you can buy an entire 1 of 250 car for ~$24K?
Now is not the 95R's time and when their time does come, and a 95R surfaces with a missing/damaged engine, $7K+ will be a bargin for a complete original, if it is infact complete inside. Another good question would be........In the current market, what would a $24K 95R be worth if it had its complete 5.8L engine assy. missing? maybe $15K?, $16K, maybe $17K, maybe? This would make this orphan engine reasonable at $7K right now.
Gene - You mentioned the "Hot Run" sheet. I do not see the paper sticker on the right side valve cover, with the number that I had to use to get my Hot Run sheet, maybe it is what I see tucked under the throttle body? I also do not see the paper sticker with the production date of the engine on the drivers side valve cover. This engine does not appear to have the paper stickers that the installed engines have. So was it even tested? Is it even complete inside? This is a good question.
If this orphan engine does not have the passenger side valve cover sticker, I would question wheather it ever was shipped to Roush Technologies?
ive just recently seen a 93/95 R oil cooler on ebay for $100 that had 0 bids, I was fully ready to buy it and got distracted and the auction ended on me w/ out throwing any bids in and there were non placed on it. Ive been trying to contact the seller since then.
____________________________________ 1994 SVT Cobra #42 of 5009 w/ 95 Cobra R drivetrain
Performance- AFR 185 Heads/ FTI Cam/ TFS-R Intake/75MM TB/ 95MM PMAS Meter/ 1.7 rockers
Chassis- 4 Point Cage/Welded Subframes
Exhaust- Magnapack Catback/ Bassani X Pipe With Cats/Roush Headers
Misc- Pro 5.0 Shifter/ FRPP 3.73's/ Centerforce clutch/FPR/Weld Rims/MT Drag Slicks
ive just recently seen a 93/95 R oil cooler on ebay for $100 that had 0 bids, I was fully ready to buy it and got distracted and the auction ended on me w/ out throwing any bids in and there were non placed on it. Ive been trying to contact the seller since then.
If this eBay seller is illusive, enter the part number for the oil cooler, M-6642-R58 in the Google or Yahoo search box, a full page of vendors show this cooler for between $120-$130 including Summit Racing. Sometimes the time to repeatedly attempt to track down someone for a $20-$30 savings, costs more than it is worth if a phone call can be made, a C.C. number given, and the part is on its way to you.
I also watched that $100 eBay cooler. It had Hayden inkstamped on the end tube. It went through at least two auctions over the last 2-3 weeks with no bids.
This was the first time I saw it listed, and then the relist after this auction.
If this eBay seller is illusive, enter the part number for the oil cooler, M-6642-R58 in the Google or Yahoo search box, a full page of vendors show this cooler for between $120-$130 including Summit Racing. Sometimes the time to repeatedly attempt to track down someone for a $20-$30 savings, costs more than it is worth if a phone call can be made, a C.C. number given, and the part is on its way to you.
I also watched that $100 eBay cooler. It had Hayden inkstamped on the end tube. It went through at least two auctions over the last 2-3 weeks with no bids.
This was the first time I saw it listed, and then the relist after this auction.
^ WOW! That final price is a little high in my book. When/If my 351 goes up, I think I'll build a 392 or 408 stroker with steel crank and rods. Maybe even aluminum heads. It may not be original but, it will be clean and a lot of fun to drive.
Two different sellers, these r/c's aren't $350?? are they??
R
wow! they've really gone up in the past year or so....I bought 2 of them, one hacker car just like the ones on auction and one plain white....I paid 50 and 60 respectively, with controllers, and knew they were both bargains, as the others were going for 200 at the time....which reminds me, I need to take it out, charge the batteries, and play with it some time
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"If you're in control, you're not going fast enough" - Parnelli Jones My Photos at Superford.org
2000 Cobra R #262 of 300
1995 Cobra R #223 of 250 (IMSA/Grand Am "Hacker Express" #00)
1993 Cobra R #38 of 107 (SpeedVision World Challenge "Program Motorsports" car)
2006 F-350 Crew Cab Diesel 4x4 King Ranch
2007 GT White/Graphite w/FRPP stuff
2008 GT500 Vapor/Black w/FRPP stuff
1936 Ford 5-Window Coupe Old School Hot Rod
and a few fairlanes, broncos, etc
Anybody know where one could get 2000 Cobra R headers? Buddy did a 5.4 DOHC swap in his 01 and having trouble finding longtubes
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2001 Trueblue SVT Cobra #2122 getting a makeover
2000 Kawasaki ZX-12R stock for now
Contact me for X-Plan on Ford,Lincoln,Mercury,Volvo,& Land Rover products
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