OK..04 Cobra, lightly modded, probably have no plans anytime soon to go over 475 RWHP...want to have an easy pedal so the significant other can drive it.
Big question is: When I change out the clutch, it seems thats when little annoying things pop up. For instance, I have to use a firewall adjuster..I'm leaning towards the Fiore setup. Then, a new clutch quadrant..Fiore again I would assume. Then, I start reading about having to do a LDC mod, because using an aftermarket clutch/adjuster creates freeplay in the pedal.
Then..a replacement Spec aluminum flywheel..or do I just go back with the stock Ford Racing aluminum flywheel?
Then, is it OK to use the stock cable, or do I have to use an adjustable cable? Will the Spec 2/2+ be ok or should I go to the Spec 3?
you can turn the stock flywheel once.
You can reuse your stock cable.
You need a pressure plate clutch disc pilot and throwout bearings
Might as well change your tranny fluid
You dont have to have the ldc mod
I took the safe route and changed everything. Since I'm not equioted to do a clutch myself, I don't like to pay twice for the labor.
IMO, a properly adjusted cable with the LDC Freeplay spring will help your TOB to last longer than the clutch.
Also, consider using a QR quadrant (Steeda and UPR make them). Some clutches (like the Spec 3+ might need that extra travel.
If you pull your flywheel, then you'll need new bolts (oem bolts are TTY and should not be reused).
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Fred
2003 Cobra born on Feb 4, 2003
Dark Shadow Gray
98 Cobra Sold {snif}
Cop pulls me for passing on a solid yellow and says he could charge me with 'Careless & Reckless'.
I said, "'Careless' sure because I made that move without checking if you were back there, but 'Reckless' would be if I saw you but made that move anyway."
Laughing, he let me go.
I took the safe route and changed everything. Since I'm not equioted to do a clutch myself, I don't like to pay twice for the labor.
IMO, a properly adjusted cable with the LDC Freeplay spring will help your TOB to last longer than the clutch.
Also, consider using a QR quadrant (Steeda and UPR make them). Some clutches (like the Spec 3+ might need that extra travel.
If you pull your flywheel, then you'll need new bolts (oem bolts are TTY and should not be reused).
I agree..I'm putting a new flywheel on, new bolts, etc.
But I ask again..is there a preference for flywheel manufacturers? Are these FW adjusters a PIA, and does the pedal have slack in it and rattle, or is this symptoms of guys not knowing how to install there quadrants and cables?
The factory setup, minus the stiff pedal has held up well in various DD cars I've seen across the forums, even ones pushing 450-500 RWHP.
So I guess I'm wondering, stiff pedal aside, whats the big gain in swapping out to a Spec clutch in a DD when all the negatives (extra money in FW adjusters, quadrants, changing out the quadrant, fixing the pedal slack) come with it?
I agree..I'm putting a new flywheel on, new bolts, etc.
But I ask again..is there a preference for flywheel manufacturers? Are these FW adjusters a PIA, and does the pedal have slack in it and rattle, or is this symptoms of guys not knowing how to install there quadrants and cables?
The factory setup, minus the stiff pedal has held up well in various DD cars I've seen across the forums, even ones pushing 450-500 RWHP.
So I guess I'm wondering, stiff pedal aside, whats the big gain in swapping out to a Spec clutch in a DD when all the negatives (extra money in FW adjusters, quadrants, changing out the quadrant, fixing the pedal slack) come with it?
If you get all of the parts installed properly the clutch pedal feels firmer (less flimsy and less play). The stock quadrant is plastic and is likely to break at some point. The replacement aluminum part is much stronger. The stock quadrant also has a gear/rachet mechanism for taking up clutch cable slack. The aluminum quadrants do not have the teeth/gear so the cable requires adjustment as the disc wears. Adjusting at the bell housing sucks. From a quick click underhood/firewall adjuster its very easy. Not a huge investment in those parts either - $65 or so. So far I have these parts installed with the stock clutch and its a huge improvement but the stock clutch pedal effort is still very hard.
I will purchase a clutch soon. Looks like I will go with the Spec2. It may be the best all rounder and ideal for my plans. It should be strong enough and if not I will replace it with something stronger. I do not think the Spec3+ is the best clutch for road course racing. It is probably more ideal for the blasting through quarter mile on slicks while maintaining semi-decent street manners. I will test a buddie's car with a Spec 3+ tomorrow and decide from there. He told me despite what you hear its and on/off clutch.
Consider what you want to do with the car and how much power you plan to make. The single disc clutches which require minimal effort, no chatter, and no long break-in period for sure are Centerforce dual Friction (not the Centerforce DFX puck style disc) and the Spec 2 - just my observation from using the SEARCH button over the past few years. I am sure there are others that work well also.
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2003 Cobra Vert Anniversary model
Mods: Kenne Bell 2.2, Billetflow idlers (4), Accufab single blade throttle body, K&N GenII CAI, Fore fuel hat with dual GT40 pumps, Dual FPDMs, wiring upgrade, Siemens DEKA 60# injectors, Racer Walsh HUGE heat exchanger, Magnaflow catback with Magnapacks, Bruce's full IRS Delrin Bushing upgrade kit, Billetflow differential brace, Bilstein sport coilovers 400#front and 600#rear spring rates, Maximum Full length subframe connectors, Maximum caster/camber plates, Maximum front control arms, Maximum solid steering shaft, Maximum front tie rod ends/bumpsteer kit, Maximum aluminum steering rack bushings, Maximum IRS adjustable tie rods, Maximum adjustable swaybar end links, 18" FR500 wheels, Cobra R Brembo brakes with 2 piece rotors, Fidanza aluminum flywheel and head cooling mod awaiting install when clutch arrives, Steeda firewall clutch adjuster and billet quadrant, SCT X Cal2, tuned in Germany by TONY from HP-Performance (Orange Park, Florida) 607 RWHP.
Last edited by Fastlane Cobra; 04-02-2009 at 01:37 PM.
OK..04 Cobra, lightly modded, probably have no plans anytime soon to go over 475 RWHP...want to have an easy pedal so the significant other can drive it.
Big question is: When I change out the clutch, it seems thats when little annoying things pop up. For instance, I have to use a firewall adjuster..I'm leaning towards the Fiore setup. Then, a new clutch quadrant..Fiore again I would assume. Then, I start reading about having to do a LDC mod, because using an aftermarket clutch/adjuster creates freeplay in the pedal.
Then..a replacement Spec aluminum flywheel..or do I just go back with the stock Ford Racing aluminum flywheel?
Then, is it OK to use the stock cable, or do I have to use an adjustable cable? Will the Spec 2/2+ be ok or should I go to the Spec 3?
fidanza 4.3 clutch with spec billet flywheel , steeda adjuster and quad with cable..couldn't ask for a better combo...but the 4.3 is a lil more clutch than u need..I think its a 2.3 that would be a better choice for you!
I agree..I'm putting a new flywheel on, new bolts, etc.
But I ask again..is there a preference for flywheel manufacturers? Are these FW adjusters a PIA, and does the pedal have slack in it and rattle, or is this symptoms of guys not knowing how to install there quadrants and cables?
The factory setup, minus the stiff pedal has held up well in various DD cars I've seen across the forums, even ones pushing 450-500 RWHP.
So I guess I'm wondering, stiff pedal aside, whats the big gain in swapping out to a Spec clutch in a DD when all the negatives (extra money in FW adjusters, quadrants, changing out the quadrant, fixing the pedal slack) come with it?
I went with the Fidanza Aluminum flywheel. The contact area is replaceable (~$60).
As far as pedal vibration, I used the LDC Freeplay Spring. I have my TOB adjusted so it is NOT spinning except when I mash down the pedal (or ride the clutch pedal). There is no vibration on my pedal at all. If everything is adjusted/installed correctly, there should not be any vibration.
As far as Spec 3+ gains over stock, With a stock engine, there aren't any. But for sure it will handle anything I throw at it.
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