i was at the dyno yesterday (thanks brent and frank from DTP) and while i was running my car we got a 192 fault. (fuel pressure low output) (low output on the data log as well). we reset the tune and cleared everything and tried again very carfully. as we were data logging my car we noticed my fuel pressure fluctuating pretty severe. it was going form 39 psi in the lines to 45psi at WOT (norm from what i was told) but would fall to 33 psi at some points and the lowest 31.8 psi!!! none of this stayed at those psi's long at all. looked like a wave (more like spikes). my tuner said this is not common but looks like my pumps are not doing so hot. we put a safe tune back on and watched it again. still doing it but without a code. anyone have an idea whats going on?
looking now for gt pumps a fpdm and pprv delete to solve this. what do you all think before i spend money i dont have right now haha thanks
____________________________________
2003 DSG Cobra
SCT XCAL 2 TUNED BY DynoTuned Performance / 2.93 UPPER PULLEY / 4LB LOWER METCO / K&N FIPK GEN 2 / MAFia
ACCUFAB S/B / DUAL PASS H/E / MAC CB / O/R PROCHAMBER / H&R SPORT SPRINGS / STEEDA IRS BRACE / LFP PULLIES / MGW ORANGE
...on the shelf waiting for time.... 60LBS / ZONE 5 FPDM / TWIN GT PUMPS ...the guy came out of his house and told me it's gonna come equipped with a trailer because the 2010 gt500 is going to be packed with so much awesomeness it won't fit in the vehicle alone...
2003 DSG COBRA
2007 FORD FUSION SEL V6 "DD"
1999 CHEVY TAHOE 2DR LT 4X4...Thanks Dad...
1999 PONTIAC GTP 2DR
Not sure what your future plans are for the car but you would be good with a Kenne Bell Boost-a-pump. I'm running the stock fuel system with a BAP, and making 592/563 on pump gas with an 11.8 AFR. The BAP is a much easier install, it will more than serve the purpose for what you need with your Eaton and can still be used later down the road with GT Pumps, PPRV delete, and upgraded FPDM when/if you decide to go twin screw. You can pick up a BAP for about $200.00 and install it in about 1-2 hours. Dropping the tank can be a
Or you can just go with new fuel goodies and not have to worry about it down the road. Just my two cents from right up the street.
www.ccmustangbrackets.com. Home of the "No Drill Front License Plate Bracket". Call, email or PM for 99-04 Cobra/Mach1 and 94-98 Cobra. Visit the website for 05-09 Mustang (V-6, GT, GT/CS, Bullitt, Steeda, Roush, Saleen, GT500). 2010 GT, GT500 and Roush Brackets are here!
Not sure what your future plans are for the car but you would be good with a Kenne Bell Boost-a-pump. I'm running the stock fuel system with a BAP, and making 592/563 on pump gas with an 11.8 AFR. The BAP is a much easier install, it will more than serve the purpose for what you need with your Eaton and can still be used later down the road with GT Pumps, PPRV delete, and upgraded FPDM when/if you decide to go twin screw. You can pick up a BAP for about $200.00 and install it in about 1-2 hours. Dropping the tank can be a
Or you can just go with new fuel goodies and not have to worry about it down the road. Just my two cents from right up the street.
thanks but not sure if the problem is my pumps in the first place
Well then a few other things you can check before dropping the tank is the fuel filter and the fuel rail pressure regulator/sensor. You FRPS should raise your fuel pressure 1:1 with boost. The FRPS' are known to go bad.
Currently experiencing the same thing with my Cobra.
Here's a log showing the A/F during a 3rd gear pull shifting into 4th. You can see I'm getting a lean spike. I also plotted the pressure drop across injectors for the same run and was surprised to see that it is constantly varying...
By the way, I went WOT at the 4th second and you can see I'm maxing out the stock fuel setup towards the end of 4th gear as pressure is slowly going down...
____________________________________ 2003 Oxford White Cobra
Well then a few other things you can check before dropping the tank is the fuel filter and the fuel rail pressure regulator/sensor. You FRPS should raise your fuel pressure 1:1 with boost. The FRPS' are known to go bad.
if the frps was bad, your car would run like crap all the time. Yes, no?
____________________________________
"Do not fret because of evil men or be envious of those who do wrong; for like the grass they will soon wither, like green plants they will soon die away." Psalm 37:1-2
MGW SS
FIORE Clutch Quad/Microclick adjuster
Lethal Perf TOB Ret. Sleeve
SPEC 3 Clutch kit
H&R Race w/no isos
MM 4 Bolt CC's
MM FLSFC's
HAWK HPS Pads w/SS lines
UPR OR/X
MAC 3'
JLT RAI
XCAL 2 Tune
The comprehensive component monitor (CCM) monitors the FRP sensor circuit to the PCM for low voltage. If voltage were to fall below a calibrated limit and amount of time during testing, the test will fail. FRP signal shorted to SIG RTN or PWR GND.
FRP signal open (NG only)
Low fuel pressure (NG only)
Damaged FRP sensor.
Damaged PCM.
A FRP PID value during KOER or KOEO less than 0.3 volts for gasoline or 0.5 volts for natural gas vehicles (NG) would indicate a hard fault.
How come I never see you guys at car get togethers in Hampton roads?
I was at the Bass Pro Shop in Hampton this weekend. That was apparently the last show they will be doing there because of BPS new management. I frequent Jenro's in Va. Beach. Nice ass run by the way
The comprehensive component monitor (CCM) monitors the FRP sensor circuit to the PCM for low voltage. If voltage were to fall below a calibrated limit and amount of time during testing, the test will fail. FRP signal shorted to SIG RTN or PWR GND.
FRP signal open (NG only)
Low fuel pressure (NG only)
Damaged FRP sensor.
Damaged PCM.
A FRP PID value during KOER or KOEO less than 0.3 volts for gasoline or 0.5 volts for natural gas vehicles (NG) would indicate a hard fault.
not following... i just ordered (for the future and maybe to cover this problem) and mod fpdm, 60 lbs, and twin gt pumps. would this fix it...
I would also order a FRP sensor just in case. You can read all over the forums about guys popping them after high rpm runs. Always good to have a spare if yours is not the problem.
I would also order a FRP sensor just in case. You can read all over the forums about guys popping them after high rpm runs. Always good to have a spare if yours is not the problem.
where is a good price one i can get? thanks for the info sorry i didnt run up to see chris for the tune... how did it go
If you can wait about 3 days for shipping, call Tousley Ford. 1-800-328-9552 ask for Steve or Kevin in parts. Tell them you got there number on SVTP. You can't beat them for ford replacement parts. 10% over cost. Example: I bought (4) O2 sensors from Kimnach Ford in Norfolk for $335.00. I got the same (4) O2 sensors from Kevin for $220.00 shipped to my door and took the others back. I bought my GT pumps, O2 sensors, and a few other things.
If you can wait about 3 days for shipping, call Tousley Ford. 1-800-328-9552 ask for Steve or Kevin in parts. Tell them you got there number on SVTP. You can't beat them for ford replacement parts. 10% over cost. Example: I bought (4) O2 sensors from Kimnach Ford in Norfolk for $335.00. I got the same (4) O2 sensors from Kevin for $220.00 shipped to my door and took the others back. I bought my GT pumps, O2 sensors, and a few other things.
I was at the Bass Pro Shop in Hampton this weekend. That was apparently the last show they will be doing there because of BPS new management. I frequent Jenro's in Va. Beach. Nice ass run by the way
I saw your car there. I showed up around 2000 in a Redfire Cobra. BTW sucks you're having issues with your car Charged.
ttt i dont have a alt pully with my 4 lb lower could his do that???
I doubt it, just keep in mind that voltage and fuel availability go hand in hand. For example when my efan was running my FPDC used to go up 6-7% with my other alternator.
DYNO Problem
Linear Mode
