Incase anyone hasn't seen/heard about there failures yet i definately think you should. Because if you havent (like me before this happend) it could end up costing you THOUSANDS with little to now help from Ford. This is my post, reposted from Modular Fords where the thread for the first failure occured.
Ya ive been in contact with steve and so far hes the only person i've delt with that has been the least bit of help.
From the ford racing tech line i've been dealing with Marty. Who has been of very little help along with the rest of Ford MotorCo.
My aluminator was purchased on August 14th, recieved abotu 3 days later and the install began alittle while after.
The motor was cranked afew days ago, ran great, was run approx. 20min total and oil was seen comming out of the bottom of the car. Car was shut off and found that the crank pulley had eaten a whole in the front cover much like the OP.
This is what we found.....
The crank pulley had worn a whole completely through the cover in less then 20min or total run time
I contacted ford immedtiately who wanted me to send pics, so i sent them the above pics along with the pics of the OP. They stated this in a reply email...
"James we are looking into the issue you are having with the pulley contacting the timing chain cover. We hope to have a fix early next week. If you have any questions please e-mail.
Thanks, Marty on the techline"
After afew days i called again at which point i was told, along with steve that this was one of 3 total motors that have appeared with this issue, all of these motors where assembled at roughly the same time/place ect and all experianced the same problem.
Long story short and only after some constant calling did i get offered ANYTHING. I was given 3 (all shitty btw) options on how to fix my problem
1) We'll give you 850 bucks, you have a shop take the motor apart, which remember this motor was already in the car and running, so they would have to drop the suspension, the oil pan, remove the valve cover, front tensioners ect, remove the front cover, bias the crank forward, and put it all back together.....oh and the best part, TIG WELD THE FRONT COVER WHOLE SHUT. Yes thats exactly what they said, have them tig weld it shut.
2) We'll give you 600 bucks, some basic parts like the TTY bolts, have the shop do all of the above, and we'll give you a new timing cover so they dont have to weld it.
3) Have the entire motor pulled, send it back to us, we'll fix it, and send it back so you can have it reinstalled but won't cover ANYTHING regarding the pulling of the motor (which i've already paid for once because the car was all but done when it failed), so i've got to pay TWICE to have the motor R&R'd because of a complete assembly error that they OPENLY admit too on thier part.
Best thing is, when i asked "Well since the motor is being opened up, by a shop that you guys know nothing about, will i still have my warranty?" The reply i got from Marty was, "As long as them fixing the motor dosen't cause the failure", uugghhh...So basically let's really read into that. So as long as nothing involving the crank, bearings ect don't fail, we'll cover it. So the only warrenty i'll have left will be that of the heads.
For 6100 bucks sorry but thats complete bullshit when they go around the internet stating how is "precision assembled to make no room for human error" and the damn thing fails in 20minutes and now they want a shop to fix it, and not offer me even half of what it would take to fix it. Yeah i completely realize that this thing has a "parts" only warranty, but are you kidding me? No other business thats worth half a damn would still be open if they did work like this.
You think if someone like Boss 330, ProLine, ModularPerformance, ect did this kinda business they would still be going strong? No. I would put money that if any of the above builders motors would have failed in 20min, they would have had no questions to return it and make everything right. Hell had the shop that installed this motor actually built it, they already told me that they would have to completely eat EVERYTHING and just suck it up.
Ford hasn't offered me ANYTHING worth a damn, and thier warranty isn't worth the paper that it's written on and thier supposed "warranty tech line" is a joke. Once i get this issue worked out you can bet i won't buy another damn thing from this POS. And im gonna make a point to drag this peice of shit motor through the mud all over the internet. Because i'm getting screwed out of 3000 for R&R X2 I don't want anyone else to have to go through the same. I purchased a motor that was supposed to give me NO problems, that cost twice what a shortblock would have, for it to fail in 20min.
Yeah this is exactly why I didn't get an Aluminator. People raved about the warranty but I knew like you just stated it "wouldn't be worth the paper it was written on". Man that is so shitty I really feel for you, I considered getting an Aluminator a few months ago when I blew my engine because I liked the idea of small amount of downtime. But the more I thought about it the more I realized a built engine from a reputable builder was the better choice.
Can't believe that this has happened to several people now, I could not explain how pissed I would be if this had happened to me! A company as large as Ford should really just suck up the cost of these failures especially considering there are only 3 known cases!
I feel for you bro! Can't begin to tell you how mad I'd be if this crap happened to me after spending $6,100 for a motor.
Good luck man and keep us posted on the outcome.
Ya like most of you guys thought, you'd figure someone as large as ford would just send me another and eat the 1500bucks it would take to make this right concidering its not like a "parts" failure where the motor was run hard ect and broke or whatever.
The damn thing ran 20minutes, ate itself due to piss poor assembly and now im supposed to fit the bill to get it right? How the hell does that make any sense what so ever?
Wow. That is BS! I was going to buy one then at the last minute decided to have my original motor rebuilt. I would find an attorney to write a letter for you. They owe you a new motor and the cost to reinstall! Good luck!
How did the crank pulley just magically start wearing into the block like that? Is the crank walking inward?
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1998 GST Spyder | 14b turbo swap | 3" Catback | Evo8 BOV | Still slow
2003 Redfire Cobra | 448wp/435wtq | 2.93" Upper / Stock Lower | bunch of other stuff | SOLD
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeremy Clarkson
What it makes me feel though, is sad. I just can't help thinking that thanks to all sorts of things, the environment, the economy, problems in the Middle East, the relentless war on speed, cars like this will soon be consigned to the history books. I just have this horrible, dreadful feeling, that what I'm driving here, is an ending.
Yeah this is exactly why I didn't get an Aluminator. People raved about the warranty but I knew like you just stated it "wouldn't be worth the paper it was written on".
You are correct. The 351 family of crate engines have a history of no warranty when they have a problem. Love Ford, but I would not buy their assembled crate motor.
First thanks DoomsDay for the warning. Called my builder and had him check mine before he cranked it over and guess what, the damper is rubbing the cover just turning it over by hand. You can see where it started on the left and top in the pic. I have yo figure out what now. The car was all but ready to start today but looks like the engine has to come out. What FRPP is offering is BULLSHIT. We need to get together on this thing and find as many people as we can who have had problems. When my builder called FRPP today they told him they had not heard of this problem before. Another BULLSHIT for FRPP. Let's see if we can collectively come up with something and get some action. The one thing they do not like is bad publicity so I think I will hit every board I can tonight and this weekend and start posting for starters.
This is from Steve at Tousley
I spoke to one of the guys higher up than the guys at the tech line and the word from him is that they will pay shipping both ways on engines found to have this issue if the customer is willing to wait.
They would then check the end play and adjust it as needed and sent the engine back to the buyer.
The other option is that they are willing to pay some labor (very unusual) to have them fixed on site, they are basically willing to pay the same amount for repair that it would cost for the shipping.
From what I understand it's simply due to a minor assembly error thats not terribly difficult to fix when it's out of the car of if the subframe is dropped.
The mod motors use a single thrust washer on the rear of the thrust journal, not a double sided thrust washer like in the old days.
This means that is the crank is not properly positioned when the thrust cap is bolted down the crank can be too far to the rear which can be an issue with the super tight pulley clearance on the Terminator.
This is the procedure out of the manual for setting the crank.
NOTE: Before assembling the cylinder block, all sealing surfaces must be free from chips, dirt, paint and foreign material. Also, make sure the coolant and oil passages are clear.
Install the upper main bearings into the cylinder block and the lower main bearing into the crankshaft main bearing caps. Lubricate the main bearings with clean engine oil.
Install the crankshaft into the cylinder block.
CAUTION: Make sure the coated side of the thrust washer with the 5-mm wide oil grooves faces the crankshaft thrust surface.
Push the crankshaft rearward and install the crankshaft thrust washer at the back of the No. 5 main boss.
Loosely install the main bearing caps and the bolts.
Push the crankshaft forward to seat the crankshaft thrust washer and hold the crankshaft in the forward position.
Tighten bolts 1-20 in sequence shown in four stages.
Stage 1: Tighten to 10 Nm (89 lb-in).
Stage 2: Tighten to 25 Nm (18 lb-ft).
Stage 3: Tighten to 40 Nm (30 lb-ft).
Stage 4: Tighten an additional 90 degrees.
Install and tighten the cross-mounted bolts in two stages.
Stage 1: Tighten to 40 Nm (30 lb-ft).
Stage 2: Tighten an additional 90 degrees.
Check the crankshaft end play. For additional information, refer to Section 303-00.
Special Tool(s)Dial Indicator Gauge with Holding Fixture
100-002 (TOOL-4201-C) or equivalent
Use a Dial Indicator Gauge with Holding Fixture to measure crankshaft end play.
Position the crankshaft to the rear of the cylinder block.
Zero the indicator.
Move the crankshaft to the front of the cylinder block. Note and record the crankshaft end play.
If crankshaft end play exceeds specifications, install a new crankshaft thrust washer or crankshaft thrust main bearing. Refer to the appropriate section in Group 303 for the procedure.
For the ones that have not installed the engines yet it's simply a matter of checking end play, if it's good you're fine, if it's not then you have the option of having FRPP pay whatever they offer for resetting it or of having them drag it back to Detroit and let them reset it and ship it back.
I'll do anything I can to help anyone with any issues they have with one of these but I don't get to make any of the actual decisions.
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Tousley Ford Parts Depot, I am offering all OEM Ford and Ford Racing parts at 10% over cost to forum members.
PM me or call me at 1-800-328-9552 ask for Steve or Mike M.
This is seriously disappointing. It just sounds like they rushed the production of these motors because thats a devastating engineering flaw in the crank pulley.
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2.80 Metco upper and idlers / C&L 95mm MAF kit / Accufab T/B and plenum / Bassani catted X-Pipe and Borla Stingers CB / Spec 3+ / AFCO Double Pass Heat Exchanger / Even Flow head cooling mod / Stant 180 t-stat / 21%/79% coolant to water mix in both systems *Kevin Hand @ Wicked Motorsports*
Mat 18:19 "Again I say to you that if two of you agree on earth concerning anything that they ask, it will be done for them by My Father in heaven.
Mat 18:20 For where two or three are gathered together in My name, I am there in the midst of them."
First thanks DoomsDay for the warning. Called my builder and had him check mine before he cranked it over and guess what, the damper is rubbing the cover just turning it over by hand. You can see where it started on the left and top in the pic. I have yo figure out what now. The car was all but ready to start today but looks like the engine has to come out. What FRPP is offering is BULLSHIT. We need to get together on this thing and find as many people as we can who have had problems. When my builder called FRPP today they told him they had not heard of this problem before. Another BULLSHIT for FRPP. Let's see if we can collectively come up with something and get some action. The one thing they do not like is bad publicity so I think I will hit every board I can tonight and this weekend and start posting for starters. TOUSLEYFORDPARTS@LIVE.COM[/email]
I hope this makes everyones life easier.
So much for Fords unconditional 12000 mile warranty. I've been party to two other failed ford racing engines (1 shortblock and 1 long block) and both were due to poor quality from the ford build team. Fords answer was to go pound sand.
I was about 2-3 weeks away from ordering an Aluminator. No way now. I'm going with a local reputable builder.
Well at least it sounds like there's a possibility they'll make it right. Really sorry to hear this BS from Ford, they need to straighthen this out ASAP and take care of everyone or they'll find the bad news will spread fast.
Doomsday, thanks for posting this; sorry to here about the engine. That is a real disappointment, I know I won't be installing an Aluminator when I get around to doing an aluminum block.
I think if it was due COMPLETELY to the failure of the builder, im fairly confident that any reputable shop would without much doubt. I know for a fact that the shop thats installing mine would have had they built it, but i wanted the "unconditional 12month 12000 mile warranty+ So much for that huh?
if they won't pay labor for something that is so obviously their fault, they should fly a tech out with the new crate motor to perform the swap. pay a rental fee to the shop where the work is performed
it totally sucks for anyone affected by this, but thank god for the internet and how quick this type news spreads. Are you listening, ford? I guaranty one of your crate motors will never go in this vert.
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mystichrome vert
2.76 BF, magn catted x, borla stinger cb, afco dual h/e, BF irs brace, jlt rai, mm flsc, mm cc plates, h&r race, 10.5" replicas, 315 nt05, HPP tune
Nah..... 
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CAUTION: Make sure the coated side of the thrust washer with the 5-mm wide oil grooves faces the crankshaft thrust surface.
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Dial Indicator Gauge with Holding Fixture 
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