Im wondering if you have to have the fore hat to make this setup work. Im trying not to spend that extra 450$ for one and was wondering if it was a must or what. If anyone can let me know if they have used the stock one nad worked fine jst let me know thanks and hopefully ill get some info. Thanks -mike-
Yes you need the Hat. It helps deliver the additional volume of fuel required. I would not even consider the stock unit....I never tried it, but would go the fore hat route.
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Gen 2 (2.3) Whipple @ 21 psi and 23 degrees timing tuned on E85 SAE 705 rwhp / 655 rwtq
DOB 02-27-04
Build # 2811 of 3768
i would still like to see someone try without having one. Im sure it decreases your duty cycle, but by how much, i know every car is different. On my particular car my duty cycle seems to be lower than alot of others that ive seen. Its still in the low 90's percent range even after adding the 2.80" pulley on my Gen2 Whipple. It dynoed 616 with the old 3.0 upper that i had before (maybe 620-625 now...???). Current fuel mods are stock rails, lines and pumps, 60's, and a KB BAP set at 50 and finally a PPRV delete. This of course is on regular fuel and not e85 but just trying to show that alot of cars with my mods have already maxed that fuel system out and were forced to upgrade.
correction here, i just looked at my datalog files and my fuel pump duty cycle was only 88-89%, not the lower 90's.
i think if your car was doing ok duty cycle wise before the e85 conversion (compared to others with similar mods), like mine, i think you might have enough room to spare, saving you from spending the money on the new fuel hat
yea well i had 60s but got 80s on it now with twin gt pumps and -8 line and lethal upgraded frdm so well see. Just wanted to knwo if anyone has tryed this yet
anyone done this on an Eaton car ? should still get some nice gains too right, or not that much becasue the boost amount is so much more limited ?
what all is required to go e85 ?
I switched my eaton car over to E85 a year and a half ago. I dont have dyno results but did gain 6mph in the 1/4. The car is a beast on E85. The mid-range power is crazy!
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04 redfire cobra coupe "Christine"
Colorados quickest and fastest Eaton only cobra.
stage 2 eaton, 2.8/4lb, mac LT, prochamber, 3in catback, JLT RAI, stock long block, home ported tb and plenum, cut stock springs, BF diff brace. 15x3.5 and 15x8 draglites. Tuned By ME on E85 using sniper.
I run a return style fuel system so can't help with that but here is my dyno sheet. I dynoed mine same day, same dyno, same conditions only thing different was first tune was on 93 second was on E85. We drained the tank before putting in the E85. We added some timing to the car on the E85 but the electric went out at the shop due to power lines coming down so didn't really finish dialing it in. Car was a bit on the lean side so I added a bit more fuel and am still getting it dialed in. I am glad I made the change and won't be looking back. I think this is the first dyno sheet I saw with back to back pulls on 93 and E85. Will be going back before winter storage and will post up the results.
nice! what are your mods and what kind of fuel components?
Quote:
Originally Posted by WS6JJP
also, how many degrees did you add between those 2 runs?
Steggy Stage V 2.76 upper 2lb lower. I have a Glenn's 1000 HP return style with Fore rails and Seimens 80 lb. injectors. I believe timing wise on the 93 was 19* or 20* and the E85 was 23*. I am adding a 75 or 100 shot on the car and still not sure whether I am going dry or wet so that's why I went with the 80's. The car seems to run better all the way around on the E85 and I only pay 1.99 a gallon (just went up .10) for 105 octane. Downside is my gas mileage dropped to 13 around town but that isn't why I made the change.
im sorry im asking so many questions about this but im just trying to learn about stuff cause im switching over as we speak, but upgrading the fuel lines to -8 helps i know, but wouldnt it bottle kneck when it goes into the fuel rail, cause the line is bigger than the fuel rail inlet? Just wondering how that plays a role in doing this. Just wondering what is the good of the -8 line upgrade. I already ordered it just wanting to knwo what all it helps
im sorry im asking so many questions about this but im just trying to learn about stuff cause im switching over as we speak, but upgrading the fuel lines to -8 helps i know, but wouldnt it bottle kneck when it goes into the fuel rail, cause the line is bigger than the fuel rail inlet? Just wondering how that plays a role in doing this. Just wondering what is the good of the -8 line upgrade. I already ordered it just wanting to knwo what all it helps
If you run 2 FGT pumps, run a 6an from each pump to a Y Block, then run a 8an to the front of the car. Then another Y block from the 8an to 2 6an's to the rails.
im sorry im asking so many questions about this but im just trying to learn about stuff cause im switching over as we speak, but upgrading the fuel lines to -8 helps i know, but wouldnt it bottle kneck when it goes into the fuel rail, cause the line is bigger than the fuel rail inlet? Just wondering how that plays a role in doing this. Just wondering what is the good of the -8 line upgrade. I already ordered it just wanting to knwo what all it helps
Running the -8 line helps lower "Fuel Pump Duty Cycle" by providing capacity.
As long as you have the capacity to the rails, the stock ones are fine. E85 runs better with a higher DeltaP (base fuel pressure) anyway.
Both myself and skaarew04SVT are running stock rails. FYI.
stupid questions guys, i pulled my tank and went ot put in the gt supercar pumps today and when i put the pumps on the hat and tryed to stick it back in it hit bottom or something and is about a 1/4 to 1/16th of a inch from being were it suppse to be. Just wondering if you have to modifie something or what, just let me know thanks