KB2.2 vacuum routing.. w/o egr/pcv

[Quicktime_GT]

I'm trying to work everything out to get my KB ready for install and i've been looking over all the vacuum lines.. I've read several articles but haven't found a really good diagram, or write up for a KB.

Here is what I got, and what i'm thinking... if anyone has any input I would really appreciate it. The last thing I want to happen is get the car to the dyno and not be able to figure a vacuum problem..

I am going to be running filters on both valve covers, and I have a brass fitting in the lower intake where the PCV line went to the blower. I will have the EGR blocked off on the back of the blower, as well as on the manifold.


First of all here is the ports on the back of the blower . I imagine the larger one was for the PCV system that "T's" into the lower intake? The cap on the lower port was capped off when I got the blower as well.

Here is the group of vacuum lines that was on the eaton. I've figured out now that the lower two need to be connect to a strong boost port, and should go to the FRPS and boost gauge, and I'll run a different set of vacuum lines from the "boost" port on KB's base plate, T it off to three lines going to the FRPS, (factory and aftermarket boost gauges), and Bypass valve.

I plan to remove all of this stuff, just as this thread explains:

And i'll have the boost dump solenoid functions turned off in the tune. One question on this though, Does the boost dump solenoid need to remain electrically plugged in, or can I remove it completely?

Then I suppose what vacuum ports I don't use I'll cap off on the back of the blower.. Being as all the upper ports go into the same area, I don't imagine it would really matter how it's run?


Being as I have capped off the EGR system, I imagine that I can get rid of the EGR vacuum regulator solenoid, the green vacuum line that went from it to the EGR valve, then cap off the red vacuum line at the upper port that would have went to the EGR solenoid?

I would like to get rid of everything that I can, to make the install as clean as possible!

I apologize for putting this in terminator talk, but I figured it would get the most views here. I also bought this blower used, and don't have an instruction manual so I've had to just kind of figure things out on the go..


Thanks in advance..

 

[Jomo1994z71]

This should help,
http://www.svtperformance.com/forum...ress-complete-but-need-help-vacuum-lines.html

My tuner helped finish the rest when I drove it over after the install...it can be a little confusing. If I'm not mistaken, it looks like on your boost bypass valve on the back of the KB, that you have no barb on it...hmmm...they can easily fall out, so you might want to put a replacement piece in there if it's possible...
There's some info on Modular Fords as well if you have time to search, good luck

 

[Silver03Termi]

the 4 ports on the back, the angled one goes to the black tube which i THINK is the charcoal canister, I know its the nastiest dirtiest line under the hood. The bid brass one is for the pcv T. The other 2 will go to the 2 remaining connectors. The upper one (on my car) goes to the connector with the lines that head towards the driver side, the other connector (on my car) with the lines that head towards the passenger side, goes to the port on the discharge plate.


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As far as the EGR delete and boost bypass solenoid delete, after you tune them out, unplug the electrical connectors, and cap the vacuum lines. I think the green one goes away.



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[Quicktime_GT]

Thanks guys! That helps out a lot ..

I'll mess with it tomorrow and try to get some more pics .. Hopefully I can have the blower on and running while I'm off work for thanksgiving!

I'm just trying to take my time making sure everything is right!

Thanks again for the input

 

[Silver03Termi]

make sure you clean out the intercooler fins with some degreaser. better buy 2 cans.

 

[Quicktime_GT]

Well I was going to make some new pics, but after sorting it out, nothing is really left of the factory vacuum harness lol. ....

The PCV port will be blocked off, the EGR port will be blocked off.

I took all EGR related sensor and lines off

i've taken all bypass valve solenoid relates sensor and lines off

Here is what I will have left:

One question... Do I need to keep the canister in this pic, and T it in with the A/C controls?

If you see something wrong please tell me!

 

[Silver03Termi]

on my car the top one goes the a/c control. the bottom one goes to FRPS, boost gauge, and by-pass valve. Looks like you got it all figured out. youve inspired me to clean mine up more. what are you going to do with the electrical connectors?

 

[Quicktime_GT]

^^ thanks for the input.. once you look at a diagram of everything the vacuum system is much less confusing, and a lot of things are really unnecessary.

To be honest, I've had a boost gauge hooked up for a few months, and it's never worked right and I've always blamed the gauge. I found out through all of this that I had it spliced into the wrong lines and it was getting it's reading from an upper port. Strangly though it would actually show a small amount of boost at WOT.. maybe inlet restriction pressure?

 

[Silver03Termi]

what materials are you going to use to make the new lines? where are you buying it from?

 

[Quicktime_GT]

Bump!

Anyone see any issues with my diagram?

I am just now getting the car back together and plan to run the vacuum lines as mentioned above.

 

[MyStIcHrOmE 04]

Bump for more info...

 

[Quicktime_GT]

Well just a quick update....

The vacuum lines routed as posted above worked out great and eliminated a bunch of crap.

The car made the boost it was suppose to, holds 20" of vacuum at idle and everything works as it's suppose to.

All lines I used were appropriately sized rubber vacuum hose from advance auto. Zip ties were used over the hose at every connection or "T" to prevent a blow off..