Something to consider when it's time to change your oil
Some of you may or may not know me. I'm the forum engine lubrication guru. We have a big used oil analysis thread in the GT500 section, one UOA there is related to this section, so I thought I would share.
I just got my 15w40 oil analysis back for my Motorcraft oil. I can't wait until the next one as I switched to Valvoline Extreme Premium Super Blue 5w40 (I think that's what its called) and its quieted my motor down significantly.
I just got my 15w40 oil analysis back for my Motorcraft oil. I can't wait until the next one as I switched to Valvoline Extreme Premium Super Blue 5w40 (I think that's what its called) and its quieted my motor down significantly.
We should begin a UOA thread here in the Superduty section.
Looks like every Motorcraft formulation that Conoco Phillips bottles for Ford shears down a grade. The virgin spec taken from the .pdf above says it's 15.2 cSt @ 100*C. Viscosity of your sample after 4,800 miles is 11.7 cSt @ 100*C. This lubricant sheared from a heavy 40 grade down to a mid 30 grade. This is a normal attribute of cheaper base stocks.
Kinda curious about the additive you used in this fill, Rev-X. It boosted potassium and boron through the roof. This makes it extremely difficult to monitor for coolant contamination in the lubricant. A boron/moly combination is the normal anti-wear additive booster added to lubricants, but normally reserved for lubricants that are non-diesel type PCMOs that are API SN/SM having lower levels of ZDDP (zinc and phosphorous). IME, you should choose a better lubricant that doesn't require the extra additive. It's possible to negatively impact a formulation with an extra additive not in the original add pack.
I've always told people, "If you have to add any additive to a lubricant for it to perform as desired, you choose the wrong lubricant."
You didn't request a TBN test, but from my experience with Motorcraft, by 7,500 miles....the lubricant detergent additives are used up.
We really need to talk about a better lubricant for your truck. I know Motorcraft/Conoco oils are highly regarded by some, but there are far better ways to care for your diesel engine and save money while doing it. I'm actually glad that you used something else this round.
Did you use the extra Rev-X with your current fill of Valvoline 5W-40, of did you only use the oil out of the bottle?
Last edited by UnleashedBeast; 02-06-2012 at 12:26 AM..
6.0 PSD are known for stiction issues. Rev-x helps with this. In my case it didn't, hence why I went to a 'premium' oil which helped tremendously. I'm not looking to extend my oil change intervals do I never request a tbn.
What about keeping the same oil change intervals of 5,000 miles while gaining 1 mpg, minimizing friction better than ever increasing efficiency and power output, and decreasing wear to a minimum.
Last edited by UnleashedBeast; 02-06-2012 at 09:44 AM..
so the rev-x didn't help the injectors? i have bad stiction during cold starts and my 6.0 runs like crap until it is warmed up. i went with ar9100 for this oil change and i will see how that stuff works. it is half the price of rev-x and since i am going to be doing my head studs soon i will be changing the oil again anyway. if ar9100 works i will stick with that and if not i will try the rev-x, also going to go with the rotella 5w-40 oil as well, been using motorcraft oil to this point.
There is a saying amongst us engine lubrication guys. It's preached....
"If you have to add an additive to make a lubricant perform as intended, you chose the wrong lubricant."
If you would use a superior lubricant in the first place, you would not require Rev-X additive. Doesn't matter what you add to Rotella or Motorcraft Diesel oil, you are still limited by the inferior base stock selection. They use refined petroleum and dino oil, not true synthetic. Even Rotella T6 and Motorcraft full synthetic is highly refined petroleum. It's not what you think it is.
Use a true synthetic diesel oil once, and you will never go back.
Use this to gain engine efficiency (power and mpg), minimize wear, decrease internal engine noise, and decrease your oil change intervals. Use it up to 15,000 miles or one year, whichever occur first.
Im a 10 year certified power stroke diesel technician. I work on them daily. I also own one. 2004 6.0. Amsoil is junk. Texas oil. All of them them are junk. I've had a million valve covers off and every single time i can tell they use Amsoil or a like products. Tony@lrs try running motorcraft cj4 10w30
It was intended for the 6.7 but make a world of difference on the 6.0. It will not be with in miles but after bout 500 miles u should notice a lot better cold start.
Please help me understand this statement. Is Amsoil junk because it's Amsoil, or because it's Texas oil?
Quote:
Originally Posted by wicked90lx
I've had a million valve covers off and every single time i can tell they use Amsoil or a like products.
by all means, please share pictures. Surely in 10 years time you have taken pictures.
Quote:
Originally Posted by wicked90lx
Tony@lrs try running motorcraft cj4 10w30
So is Motorcraft 10W-30 good stuff because it's not Texas oil?
Quote:
Originally Posted by wicked90lx
Im a 10 year certified power stroke diesel technician. I work on them daily. I also own one. 2004 6.0.
and I know many top tier A.S.E. certified mechanics that know/understand little or nothing about engine lubrication technology. No offense, but you sound like one of them.
Last edited by UnleashedBeast; 02-26-2012 at 11:02 PM..
Been running 15w40 Royal Purple since the first oil change in the SVTP F-350. They told me that their 5w40 HPS has a diesel add pack in it and is more robust than the regular 15w40 I've been running.
Been running 15w40 Royal Purple since the first oil change in the SVTP F-350. They told me that their 5w40 HPS has a diesel add pack in it and is more robust than the regular 15w40 I've been running.
Sid, we should begin a UOA thread for diesel trucks as well.
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