Need to know how to tell if the engine is numbers matching
Hello all, new to the forum. Looking at a 1993 cobra low miles, low build number.
Just wanted to know how to tell if the short block is original. I know to look for the usual stuff, cobra intake, 65 mm tb, blue tops, 3 bar gt 40 heads ect.
But I really want to make sure the short block is original. Otherwise the car has a lesser value in ways.
The only thing you can verify without tearing the heads or pan off is the block. It has a partial vin number stamped on top of the block, next to the firewall. Any like RW93 said, it's bascially behind the intake. Here's an discussion we had about it a while back.
When the engine is in the car it will be next to impossible to verify that the vin # is on the block. You will have to literally lay across the top of the engine, core support & front bumper to get your body in position. You will also have to pop the injector harness (10 pin connectors) out of their bracket so that the harness can be moved around. Then with a bright flash light and some very good eyes you might be able to see the partial vin# if the oil build up, dust and factory intake silicon are not covering it up.
I know for a fact that I would not let anyone lay across the top of my low mileage cobra and take it partially apart to try to verify that #. You could potentially do more damage to the car than what its worth.
If it were me, I would be more inclined to look at bolt & nut heads for "scarring/marring" from a socket being on them to loosen motor mount bolts, intake or head bolts etc. If none of the bolts look like they have been touched then your could be 99% sure that the motor was original. I doubt most people would even think about taping up every engine bolt with masking tape to try and hide an engine swap on a car.
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Daryl
'93 Cobra "R" (#59).......'03 Cobra 10th Coupe
'93 Cobra "R" (#39).......'93 Coupe 5.0/5spd
'00 Cobra "R" (#36).......'84 Coupe 5.0/5spd
'93 Cobra Red(#621).....'84,'86,'86 SVO's
'03 Ford SD CC 4x4 7.3 PSD
When the engine is in the car it will be next to impossible to verify that the vin # is on the block. You will have to literally lay across the top of the engine, core support & front bumper to get your body in position. You will also have to pop the injector harness (10 pin connectors) out of their bracket so that the harness can be moved around. Then with a bright flash light and some very good eyes you might be able to see the partial vin# if the oil build up, dust and factory intake silicon are not covering it up.
I know for a fact that I would not let anyone lay across the top of my low mileage cobra and take it partially apart to try to verify that #. You could potentially do more damage to the car than what its worth.
If it were me, I would be more inclined to look at bolt & nut heads for "scarring/marring" from a socket being on them to loosen motor mount bolts, intake or head bolts etc. If none of the bolts look like they have been touched then your could be 99% sure that the motor was original. I doubt most people would even think about taping up every engine bolt with masking tape to try and hide an engine swap on a car.
+1, I would say this would be the best. The scarring/marring is what would indicate any engine mods/removal.
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