Metco Lower Install

Dana

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Metco Lower Install (Pics Restored 12/20/03) Gone again:-(

Well, I started the lower install Friday night and finished it Saturday morning. Not too bad a job if you can turn wrenches.
You’ll need the following:
Get some Loctite, and a cleaner for the threads, you’ll want it when this goes back together.
5mm, 6mm, 8mm and 3/8 hex sockets - 3/8 inch drive. 14mm hex - ½ inch drive. If two lengths are offered in the 14mm socket, get the shorter one, clearance issues at the fan!
Breaker bar and matching 2 foot pipe. HA! HA!
A normal compliment of shallow and deep well metric sockets and wrenches. Nothing extraordinary here.
A 3/8 air ratchet helps too!
Having the car securely up on stands helps a lot.

The directions that come with the parts are ok, but leave a lot to be desired.
They also list the wrong size stock belt. I don’t know if this affects the recommended belt sizes for after the install.
I had to make up one spacer for one of the line mounts. I just used a short piece of 3/8 inch steel pipe. Otherwise, all the necessary parts are included.

First, make note of where all the lines are attached underneath the car at the front. You’ll want to know later. The lines that attach to the pulley casting that is removed, anyway.

I have never seen a setup like this before, where the pulley is part of the front casting. Guess I’m a little behind the times?
If you haven’t either, here it is: the pulley doesn’t have a bolt in it. The hex fitting that you see is actually part of the outer pulley. It all comes off at once. The inner edge of the center of the front pulley screws into the back pulley. IT IS TIGHT!!!!!!!!!! A 2 foot bar and a 2 foot pipe on the bar, the car in 3rd gear, all the brakes applied, which was a good trick since I live by myself! I used a short piece of wood to hold down the brake pedal by jamming it between the pedal and the seat rail. The car will move if you don’t do this.
I pulled the battery, not actually necessary, and moved the power steering reservoir over to the side. Also not really necessary, but I figured that I am going to change out the alternator pulley and that it may help then.

When the crank bolt/pulley finally breaks loose, (it unscrews backwards- it has left hand threads) it will spin only part way off if the front plate isn’t completely loosened already. Otherwise it comes off about half way and binds up and stops. Ask me how I know this!! HA! HA!

Another thing is that when you begin to reassemble the new pulley hub onto the old crankshaft, it may not slide on easily, if at all. This is because of the paint on the inside diameter of the new pulley. Take sandpaper or a half-round file and clean it up. It may take several tries to do it. You want to take off just enough to allow it to slide onto the old pulley. Put Loctite on these 3 bolts.

I also put Loctite on the ½ inch bolt that holds the idler pulley mount.

Check the clearances at the front of the A/C compressor. If the lines aren’t reinstalled correctly, they will rub on the A/C clutch.

There is no explanation given as to the benefit of, or reason for, using one idler pulley mount hole over the other. I used the upper one. It gives more belt wrap on the crank pulley. They also don’t tell you how this impacts the recommended belt sizes, if at all.

This job is like many others. The first one is a bitch, the rest are much easier.

My install is not complete. I still need a belt and since I am installing an oversize (3”) alternator pulley and the 4 inch idlers, I have to wait for them to arrive before an exact belt size can be determined. About 2 weeks for them.

Have fun!
Dana

EDIT: Pics added below
 
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larryc7777

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Hey Dana,
Could the different mounting holes on the backing plate be there to accommodate the 3 different sizes of lower pulleys available?
 

JB

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according to Metco, the upper idler mount is to be used with a smaller-than-stock upper pulley...it makes it easier to swap lowers.

if it gives better belt wrap, then that's an added benefit..... :thumbsup:
 
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JB

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forgive me if you've posted this already but I didn't find it....who did you end up sourcing the 3" alternator pulley from ?

TIA
 

Dana

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As far as I can tell, any of the 3 lower pulley sizes would fit with the idler in either position. And no where in the instructions does it specify that either the lower or upper hole must be used with a particular size lower crank pulley.

The directions say to use the upper mounting hole if a smaller than stock blower pulley is in use. And use the lower mounting hole if a stock blower pulley is used.
That is all the directions say regarding the 2 positions.
The directions don’t say why, or anything else, for that matter. Nor do they tell you what, if any, impact the two different positions have on their recommended belt sizes.

The upper position won't do anything as far as ease of changing anything. There appears to be sufficient clearance in either position to make the lower change pretty easy. The upper idler position only causes more belt wrap on the lower (crank) pulley, which I actually think was their objective, and necessitates a longer belt. It’s too far away from the S/C pulley to have anything to do with it.

As far as the 3 inch Alternator pulley, they are coming from a company (not either sponsor here) in Florida in about two weeks. The product is going to be produced in 2 sizes. I have not seen one yet. They have just begun working on them, they are not ready yet. As soon as I have confirmation on their availability or have one in my hand, I will post it here. I spoke to the company several times in the last week or so and told them there would be a decent market for them with those that bought the lower kit. They seemed to agree. They will make a run of them.

Dana
 
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JB

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I must have a different set of directions than you, mine says:

"The idler plate has been designed with (2) pulley post locations which will help to ease pulley changes. The bottom location should be the starting position in most cases. Combination changes of supercharger pulley/crank pulley may require using top location"

I'm not sure about the belt sizes...what is the correct length of a stock belt? my directions say 74.5"

thanks for the tips and pulley info :thumbsup:
 
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Dana

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JB,
You're right. That is in there. Sorry, I missed that.
From that statement, I would guess that that would enable one to use the same belt size when going to a smaller upper pulley, by moving the idler to the upper position and taking up the newly created slack in the belt. Still not much of an explanation though...

Mine says 74.5 also. It should be 75.5 inches for stock.

Dana
 
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a94cobra

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I wished I had seen this post before I started.

I didn't check the clearance on the A/C well enough. I did a test run and didn't notice anything. But a couple days later in town the A/C compressor came on and it whacked my coolant line. $36 for a new one.

The breaker bar and a two foot pipe is required to break tha booger loose. Only I put the car in reverse as opposed to a forward gear to break it loose. That held it very well. I am using the 4# lower pulley and the closest belt I could find to the recommended 78" was 77 7/8". This belt is tight and took two people to install, but it works.

And they shorted me the 14mm hex socket tool that is supposed to be included. You said that if you have the choice get the shorter one. Does this mean they didn't include one in your kit either? They are sending me one. In the meantime I purchased one from Snap-On to finish the job. $25 and it is long. So I had to loosen and move the fan assembly.

Thanks for the great write up.
 
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Dana

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a94,
I don't think you got shorted on the socket, I was told that was how the kits were ordered (if you got yours from Modular Madness GP) -- without it. I didn't get one either.

I bought the SnapOn one too. Just a touch too long, but I managed to force it in. A 1/2 inch shorter would have been great. I'll probably cut it down if I mess with that pulley again.

I am still waiting for the other pulleys, so I don't know on the belt size, but for mine with a 3 inch alt. pulley, 4 inch idlers and 4 lb lower and 3.0 upper, I'm guessing 79 inches. We'll see...

Which idler mount hole did you use for the 77 7/8 belt?
Which brand belt and did you notice any stretch after a break-in period? (Indicator movement on tensioner)
Do you have a stock upper?
To ease the install of a SLIGHTLY too tight belt, I am considering trimming the one stop down on the tensioner bracket.

Dana
 

a94cobra

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I talked to Don at Modular Madness he told me that the part was being sent to me. I still don't have it, though.
 

JB

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THANKS

good job on the pics, Dana :thumbsup:
maybe this should be moved to the modifications forum
 

Dana

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No inventory sheet here either.

Thanks for the compliment! No macro lens sucks though!

I have just asked for it to be moved over there. I wanted to wait until I had the pictures in though.

Dana
 

walker887

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guys,
At the time I was unaware of the missing 14mm.
It is my fault that I didn't check the kits, and since I want to cover the 5 orders I sourced from another place(which I will never do again). I was told the ones that contacted me that they would send out the 14MM hex's and did not realize it had not been done until Jeff let me know.
needless to say I was very upset . so you guys get ahold of me and I will try and make it right for you guys.
Don
 

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