Metco Lower Install (Pics Restored 12/20/03) Gone again:-(
Well, I started the lower install Friday night and finished it Saturday morning. Not too bad a job if you can turn wrenches.
You’ll need the following:
Get some Loctite, and a cleaner for the threads, you’ll want it when this goes back together.
5mm, 6mm, 8mm and 3/8 hex sockets - 3/8 inch drive. 14mm hex - ½ inch drive. If two lengths are offered in the 14mm socket, get the shorter one, clearance issues at the fan!
Breaker bar and matching 2 foot pipe. HA! HA!
A normal compliment of shallow and deep well metric sockets and wrenches. Nothing extraordinary here.
A 3/8 air ratchet helps too!
Having the car securely up on stands helps a lot.
The directions that come with the parts are ok, but leave a lot to be desired.
They also list the wrong size stock belt. I don’t know if this affects the recommended belt sizes for after the install.
I had to make up one spacer for one of the line mounts. I just used a short piece of 3/8 inch steel pipe. Otherwise, all the necessary parts are included.
First, make note of where all the lines are attached underneath the car at the front. You’ll want to know later. The lines that attach to the pulley casting that is removed, anyway.
I have never seen a setup like this before, where the pulley is part of the front casting. Guess I’m a little behind the times?
If you haven’t either, here it is: the pulley doesn’t have a bolt in it. The hex fitting that you see is actually part of the outer pulley. It all comes off at once. The inner edge of the center of the front pulley screws into the back pulley. IT IS TIGHT!!!!!!!!!! A 2 foot bar and a 2 foot pipe on the bar, the car in 3rd gear, all the brakes applied, which was a good trick since I live by myself! I used a short piece of wood to hold down the brake pedal by jamming it between the pedal and the seat rail. The car will move if you don’t do this.
I pulled the battery, not actually necessary, and moved the power steering reservoir over to the side. Also not really necessary, but I figured that I am going to change out the alternator pulley and that it may help then.
When the crank bolt/pulley finally breaks loose, (it unscrews backwards- it has left hand threads) it will spin only part way off if the front plate isn’t completely loosened already. Otherwise it comes off about half way and binds up and stops. Ask me how I know this!! HA! HA!
Another thing is that when you begin to reassemble the new pulley hub onto the old crankshaft, it may not slide on easily, if at all. This is because of the paint on the inside diameter of the new pulley. Take sandpaper or a half-round file and clean it up. It may take several tries to do it. You want to take off just enough to allow it to slide onto the old pulley. Put Loctite on these 3 bolts.
I also put Loctite on the ½ inch bolt that holds the idler pulley mount.
Check the clearances at the front of the A/C compressor. If the lines aren’t reinstalled correctly, they will rub on the A/C clutch.
There is no explanation given as to the benefit of, or reason for, using one idler pulley mount hole over the other. I used the upper one. It gives more belt wrap on the crank pulley. They also don’t tell you how this impacts the recommended belt sizes, if at all.
This job is like many others. The first one is a bitch, the rest are much easier.
My install is not complete. I still need a belt and since I am installing an oversize (3”) alternator pulley and the 4 inch idlers, I have to wait for them to arrive before an exact belt size can be determined. About 2 weeks for them.
Have fun!
Dana
EDIT: Pics added below
Well, I started the lower install Friday night and finished it Saturday morning. Not too bad a job if you can turn wrenches.
You’ll need the following:
Get some Loctite, and a cleaner for the threads, you’ll want it when this goes back together.
5mm, 6mm, 8mm and 3/8 hex sockets - 3/8 inch drive. 14mm hex - ½ inch drive. If two lengths are offered in the 14mm socket, get the shorter one, clearance issues at the fan!
Breaker bar and matching 2 foot pipe. HA! HA!
A normal compliment of shallow and deep well metric sockets and wrenches. Nothing extraordinary here.
A 3/8 air ratchet helps too!
Having the car securely up on stands helps a lot.
The directions that come with the parts are ok, but leave a lot to be desired.
They also list the wrong size stock belt. I don’t know if this affects the recommended belt sizes for after the install.
I had to make up one spacer for one of the line mounts. I just used a short piece of 3/8 inch steel pipe. Otherwise, all the necessary parts are included.
First, make note of where all the lines are attached underneath the car at the front. You’ll want to know later. The lines that attach to the pulley casting that is removed, anyway.
I have never seen a setup like this before, where the pulley is part of the front casting. Guess I’m a little behind the times?
If you haven’t either, here it is: the pulley doesn’t have a bolt in it. The hex fitting that you see is actually part of the outer pulley. It all comes off at once. The inner edge of the center of the front pulley screws into the back pulley. IT IS TIGHT!!!!!!!!!! A 2 foot bar and a 2 foot pipe on the bar, the car in 3rd gear, all the brakes applied, which was a good trick since I live by myself! I used a short piece of wood to hold down the brake pedal by jamming it between the pedal and the seat rail. The car will move if you don’t do this.
I pulled the battery, not actually necessary, and moved the power steering reservoir over to the side. Also not really necessary, but I figured that I am going to change out the alternator pulley and that it may help then.
When the crank bolt/pulley finally breaks loose, (it unscrews backwards- it has left hand threads) it will spin only part way off if the front plate isn’t completely loosened already. Otherwise it comes off about half way and binds up and stops. Ask me how I know this!! HA! HA!
Another thing is that when you begin to reassemble the new pulley hub onto the old crankshaft, it may not slide on easily, if at all. This is because of the paint on the inside diameter of the new pulley. Take sandpaper or a half-round file and clean it up. It may take several tries to do it. You want to take off just enough to allow it to slide onto the old pulley. Put Loctite on these 3 bolts.
I also put Loctite on the ½ inch bolt that holds the idler pulley mount.
Check the clearances at the front of the A/C compressor. If the lines aren’t reinstalled correctly, they will rub on the A/C clutch.
There is no explanation given as to the benefit of, or reason for, using one idler pulley mount hole over the other. I used the upper one. It gives more belt wrap on the crank pulley. They also don’t tell you how this impacts the recommended belt sizes, if at all.
This job is like many others. The first one is a bitch, the rest are much easier.
My install is not complete. I still need a belt and since I am installing an oversize (3”) alternator pulley and the 4 inch idlers, I have to wait for them to arrive before an exact belt size can be determined. About 2 weeks for them.
Have fun!
Dana
EDIT: Pics added below
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