ARP Stud Install to 2003 Ford Mustang Cobra
At some point in the future, you may need to replace a wheel stud. We all know this has been discussed regularly; however, I’m going to share my experience with the installation of ARP studs for the rear wheels in coordination with a ½” Maximum Motorsports Hubcentric Wheel Spacer. This particular set was installed on a set of 18x10” wheels from American Muscle.
As described from Maximum Motorsports website, “ARP wheel studs have a higher strength and tolerance level than any other fastener on the market, 2.5" threaded length (compared to the stock 1" threaded length), an overall length of 3.5", and are cadmium plated for maximum corrosion protection.”
ARP Stud P/N - 8SWR (fits .603"-.613" hole)
MM ½” Wheel Spacer P/N - MMWS-4
Hardened ½” Washers
Several ½” Nuts
I was not about to start drilling into the wheel hubs so I contacted Jason at MM to confirm these ARP studs required no drilling – he affirmed my previous thoughts and I got to work. Perform your safety requirements to make sure you car isn’t going anywhere. Get the rear off the ground, take the wheels off, and remove the calipers and rotors.
Removing the studs – this for me, took some time. I started with the C-Clamp with the socket method – just wasn’t working for me – no idea if it was because of the salt up here or what, but they didn’t move at all. I switched to a ‘hand drilling hammer’ and each stud ended up only needing at most two blows. Of course, be careful not to smack the hub itself. Be careful as you can damage seals and bearings this way if you do not limit the force applied into the axle.
Getting the studs seated was relatively quick and painless using an impact wrench and anti-seize. I’m in agreement with SlowSVT with regard to sacrificing the nut, not the stud – I’m not a metallurgical expert, but the Grade 8 argument makes sense to me so I went through 2 or 3 standard nuts. Additionally, I didn’t feel comfortable having the studs seat themselves over time – I’ve heard of people doing that though and I’m sure it’s worked out fine but I’d rather not take the chance.
As stated by everyone else, it was quick with the impact wrench but did require a bit of patience and lube. Insert a stud through the appropriate whole – depending on the side, you will only be able to insert it in a certain segment (drivers side is approximately 2 o’clock and passenger side is approximately 10 o’clock). Stack three or four hardened washers with a nut on top. You just need to pay attention to them going in straight and seating flush, tighten it down by hand. I took my time with each stud – using anti-seize on all the stud threads, and then bursting each with the impact until the knurl is seated.
Continue to do this for all 10 studs. This shouldn’t take all that long to get them seated when using air. The hubcentric spacer should go on with no problem as long as the studs are straight. Reassemble and torque everything back up properly according to specs. I marked and cut each stud carefully with a air-cutter – really didn’t take too much. I'm no expert, but thought these upclose pics might help some that are unsure.
Resources
How to Replace Wheel Studs | Expert Village Videos
Wheel Stud Replacement - Replacing a Stripped Wheel Stud
How To Replace a Stripped Wheel Stud | How To Do Things.com
Maximum Motorsports :: The Leader In Mustang Performance Suspension
Removing a Broken Lug Nut Stud | Expert Village Videos
http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/how-230/154993-installing-longer-wheel-studs.html
At some point in the future, you may need to replace a wheel stud. We all know this has been discussed regularly; however, I’m going to share my experience with the installation of ARP studs for the rear wheels in coordination with a ½” Maximum Motorsports Hubcentric Wheel Spacer. This particular set was installed on a set of 18x10” wheels from American Muscle.
As described from Maximum Motorsports website, “ARP wheel studs have a higher strength and tolerance level than any other fastener on the market, 2.5" threaded length (compared to the stock 1" threaded length), an overall length of 3.5", and are cadmium plated for maximum corrosion protection.”
ARP Stud P/N - 8SWR (fits .603"-.613" hole)
MM ½” Wheel Spacer P/N - MMWS-4
Hardened ½” Washers
Several ½” Nuts
I was not about to start drilling into the wheel hubs so I contacted Jason at MM to confirm these ARP studs required no drilling – he affirmed my previous thoughts and I got to work. Perform your safety requirements to make sure you car isn’t going anywhere. Get the rear off the ground, take the wheels off, and remove the calipers and rotors.
Removing the studs – this for me, took some time. I started with the C-Clamp with the socket method – just wasn’t working for me – no idea if it was because of the salt up here or what, but they didn’t move at all. I switched to a ‘hand drilling hammer’ and each stud ended up only needing at most two blows. Of course, be careful not to smack the hub itself. Be careful as you can damage seals and bearings this way if you do not limit the force applied into the axle.
Getting the studs seated was relatively quick and painless using an impact wrench and anti-seize. I’m in agreement with SlowSVT with regard to sacrificing the nut, not the stud – I’m not a metallurgical expert, but the Grade 8 argument makes sense to me so I went through 2 or 3 standard nuts. Additionally, I didn’t feel comfortable having the studs seat themselves over time – I’ve heard of people doing that though and I’m sure it’s worked out fine but I’d rather not take the chance.
As stated by everyone else, it was quick with the impact wrench but did require a bit of patience and lube. Insert a stud through the appropriate whole – depending on the side, you will only be able to insert it in a certain segment (drivers side is approximately 2 o’clock and passenger side is approximately 10 o’clock). Stack three or four hardened washers with a nut on top. You just need to pay attention to them going in straight and seating flush, tighten it down by hand. I took my time with each stud – using anti-seize on all the stud threads, and then bursting each with the impact until the knurl is seated.
Continue to do this for all 10 studs. This shouldn’t take all that long to get them seated when using air. The hubcentric spacer should go on with no problem as long as the studs are straight. Reassemble and torque everything back up properly according to specs. I marked and cut each stud carefully with a air-cutter – really didn’t take too much. I'm no expert, but thought these upclose pics might help some that are unsure.
Resources
How to Replace Wheel Studs | Expert Village Videos
Wheel Stud Replacement - Replacing a Stripped Wheel Stud
How To Replace a Stripped Wheel Stud | How To Do Things.com
Maximum Motorsports :: The Leader In Mustang Performance Suspension
Removing a Broken Lug Nut Stud | Expert Village Videos
http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/how-230/154993-installing-longer-wheel-studs.html
