This is a very simple less than one hour job for everything.
Pads:
I recommend the motorcraft ones. They are anywhere from $95-$105 at most Auto supply stores or performance shops. Motorcraft Part # is BR12B or Ford's part # is 2U2Z-2V001-PA
Jack the car up. Place a Jack stand at an appropriate place just incase the jack decides to go on vacation while you’re underneath the car at some point.
These are self explanatory:
Some of the tools needed to do the job...specially if you'll be replacing the rotors. The two 15mm bolts will require a breaker bar, a regular socket wrench and some lock-tite (thread locker) for when you're bolting things up.
1. Take the wheel off…and turn the wheels so that the rear part of the rotor is exposed.
2. Take the C clip (some people call it an E clip) and washer off as shown:
3. Slide the retainer pin off as shown:
4. Slides right off:
5: Raise the caliper from the bracket as shown from the rear:
6: Slides right off:
7: The bracket is exposed. If you’re going to be replacing the rotors, all you have to do is take the two 15mm bolts out. (In this pic, I am using a cheapo old bent torque wrench that I now use as a breaker-bar/leverage wrench because of how long and strong it is.). When the 2 bolts are out. The bracket slides off and you can remove the rotor and replace it with a new one, OR you can have the old one resurfaced with a lathe. Also known as "turning" the rotors. Most auto parts stores charge a simple $6-10 bucks to resurface each rotor. There is a minimum thickness required for each rotor, thus if your rotor is too thin to remove the thin layer, they will not do it. Most rotors can only be resurfaced with a lathe just once in the life of the rotor.
8: When you have the rotors out and replaced, you need to use some thread locker on those two 15mm bolts. Apply as shown:
9: Back to the pads job…Slide the old brake pads off
10: Rotate the old pads, and Flip them upside down so that the flat surface rests against the pistons and the "raised" part of the pad is on the bottom as shown. Helps the tool catch on it to help push the pistons back..
____________________________________ Mods *BRAND NEW 2000 4.6L DOHC COBRA MOTOR w/ T45* 294.18 rwhp and 295.96 rwtq
*MAC catback*H&R Springs*Front Bilsteins, w/ Tokico rear illuminas*8.8 w/ 3.55's*MM CC plates*Subframes*Cobra F&R Brakes*
11: Place the caliper push in tool as shown and screw on the tool to push the pistons back in. Some people can sometimes use their palms to push the pistons back in. This tool is available at most Auto parts stores for cheap. Anywhere from $5-10 bucks There are various different ones that are much more efficient and might cost a little more. (NOTE: Front calipers are PUSH IN only!! Rear Calipers are SCREW IN only, thus there are different tools for the F and R).
12: This just shows what I use to hang my calipers. Old Clothes hangar bent to do the job. Cheap and efficient.
13: Assemble the anti-rattle clips on the new pads just as they were on the old ones. I normally transfer the little rubber absorbers from the old pads onto the new clips as well. Every effort to avoid the micro vibration caused by the pads vibrating in their “slot” is best. You know that trailer truck noise that you hear from some car’s brakes sometimes? Those are caused by this micro-vibration.
14: Place the new pads onto the caliper. Then Slide the caliper onto the rotor front in forward first as shown. The pad’s front protrusion part slips into the bracket’s U shaped groove at the front and stays locked in.
15: Push down on the rear part of the caliper, then slide the pin as shown. You can “tap” it gently until it’s all the way in.
16: Next slide the washer into the end of the pin, and lock the C clip into place. You might have to “tap” on it as well to make it lock into the groove on the pin.
17: Screw the cap back onto the brake fluid reservoir. (Oh yeah, and if your engine is this dUrty, clean the damn thing..next mod)
18: Put the wheel back on, tighten your lugs, take the jack-stand and jack out and go for a spin.
(VERY IMPORTANT NOTE: Bedding your pads is very necessary as well as seasoning your new rotors. Do not heat up your pads too soon or unnecessarily or you will GLAZE them. You can also WARP your new rotors if you heat them up too quickly and their metallic composition does not get to set itself. BE gentle for the first few times you drive your car. You can research this for how it’s done with a simple Google search)
Everyone has their decision to make. You decide not to use it, others will decide to use it. It's that simple. I choose to use it, and I advise others to as well.
Ok a few mishaps. I will still go with seeing 50-100+ cars where calipers are being taken off to do brakes and threadlock not being used and no problems. Of course you will have your mishaps that are not the norm. But what are you going to do threadlock every bolt?
Ok a few mishaps. I will still go with seeing 50-100+ cars where calipers are being taken off to do brakes and threadlock not being used and no problems. Of course you will have your mishaps that are not the norm. But what are you going to do threadlock every bolt?
Mostly the ones that will keep me from smashing into something at 60 miles an hour...or other pertinent ones.
Using Loc-Tight is never a bad idea. I have had bolts back out and yes I did tighten then pretty good. Is it the norm...no. It isnt that hard to brake loc-tight so a little insurance is nice. Great write up -Shane
Mostly the ones that will keep me from smashing into something at 60 miles an hour...or other pertinent ones.
I understand. However, I have yet to have a customer come back to us on a roll back saying their Toyota or Subaru's caliper came off because we didn't use locktite. I am just saying you don't have to use it.
i may have missed this but id suggest releasing the bleeder screw when pushing the pistions back in, this way ur not pushing the old fluid back thru the system then simply retighted b4 releasing the clamp.....
-Shane
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