Lower Pulley Ring Diameters
Stock...........7.60"
2 lb..............8.00"
4 lb..............8.60"
6 lb..............9.10"
8 lb..............9.55"
10 lb............10"
Torco "Accelerator" Octane Mixtures
5gal of 93 with 32 oz of torco = 101
5gal of 93 with 64 oz of torco = 101+?
8gal of 93 with 32 oz of torco = 99
8gal of 93 with 64 oz of torco = 101+?
10gal of 93 with 32 oz of torco = 98
10gal of 93 with 64 oz of torco = 101
15gal of 93 with 32 oz of torco = 96
15gal of 93 with 64 oz of torco = 99
Rear Tire Slick Options - 16" Rims:
Hoosier Full Slick...................28.0/10.0-16
Hoosier QTP.........................26 X 9.50-16 LT
.........................................28 X 11.50-16 LT
MT ET Drags........................None
MT ET Streets.....................26X10.50-16LT
........................................26X11.50-16LT
........................................28X11.50-16LT
M & H Racemaster-Full..........26 x 12-16
M & H Racemaster-Cheater....26 x 12-16
Clutch Installation Instructions
1)Disconnect Battery
2)Get car up on jackstands, tall ones, need 12" under the tires airspace
3)Remove Shifter handle, bezel/plate and then shifter.
4)Remove mid pipe
5)Remove driveshaft (trans plug to keep from leaking or wrap tailshaft with towel/ziploc "diaper") Drain it works too.
6)Remove Trans mount
7)Unplug all electrical connections from the trans
8)Remove clutch inspection cover
9)Detach clutch cable
10)Remove lower 4 trans bolts
11)Support with trans jack
12)Remove remaining upper trans bolts
13)Slide trans back and lower trans jack down
14)Remove Starter 13mm socket, tons of extensions
15)Remove Bellhousing bolts (remember there are two on the front face holding the bellhousing shield on)
16)Remove Bellhousing
17)Remove pressure plate bolts and pressure plate/clutch
18)Remove flywheel bolts and flywheel
Do LDC cooling mod!
INSTALL
19)Be sure bellhousing shield is in place on dowels
20)Install new flywheel and bolts 60ftlb
21)Hold clutch plate in place with alignment tool
22)Attach pressure plate and bolts, 35ftlb (BE SURE clutch alignment tool appears to be sticking straight out before you tighten too hard.)
22)Remove alignment tool
22)Install Bellhousing and bolts, remember the two that face forward attaching the bellhousing shield. The two top bellhousing bolts also hold a bracket that supports some wiring. 60ftlbs
23)Install starter 30ftlbs
21)Put trans in any gear (with your finger)
22)Raise trans up with trans jack, insert input shaft into clutch slowly while slowly turning tailshaft (aids alignment)
23)Push trans all the way forward, install trans bolts 40ftlbs
24)Install trans mount and bolts 40ftlbs
25)Reinstall all electrical connections on trans.
26)Install Clutch cable
27)Install clutch inspection cover
28)Reinstall driveshaft and bolts 100ftlbs
29)Reinstall midpipe 30ftlbs
30)Reinstall shifter/plate and bezel
31)Lower car
03' COBRA DRAG STRIP WEIGHT REDUCTION
Spare tire...................................-26.4 lbs
Jack/crow bar..............................-6.6 lbs
Trunk pad...................................-6.0 lbs!
Mott bar (under diff).....................-7.8 lbs
Front sway bar/brackets................-12.4 lbs
Rear seat bottom.........................-11.0 lbs
Rear seat back.............................-25.6 lbs
Rear seat head rest.......................-5.6 lbs
Rear seat bottom support bar..........-5.0 lbs
Rear deck amplifier.......................-23.0 lbs
MAC LT's w/ OR Prochamber...........-10.0 lbs (stock mid pipe/manifolds=52.8, MAC LT's/Prochamber =42.8)
Odyssey battery/bracket................-22.2 lbs (stocker=37.6, Odyssey=15.4)
Front 15x3.5" Bogarts/ET Front........-53.2 lbs (OEM Chrome w/ F1's=49.8 each, Skinny setup=23.2 each)
Rear 16x10" Bogarts/Hoosier FS.......-26.8 lbs (OEM Chrome w/ F1's=49.8 each, Rear setup=36.4 each)
UPR K member kit.........................-65.0 lbs
Front Passenger Seat.....................-43.0 lbs
Total......................................-349.6 lbs!!!
Notes:
-Be careful with the weight of the rear seat delete kit you may buy. Some are 12+ lbs. Mine is 7.8 lbs and I remove it at the track.
-If you're still running stock exhaust manifolds, Magnaflow catted X = 13.4 lbs, stock H pipe = 36.0 lbs. Savings of 22.6 lbs!!!
-Interesting info: OEM Chrommies w/ Nitto 315's = 52.4 lbs, OEM polished w/ MT 275's = 53.4 lbs, Diamond Racing 16" rims w/ ET Streets = 44.4 lbs, Bogarts 16x10" w Hoosier full slicks = 36.4 lbs!
Quote:
Originally Posted by highoctane
The FPDM controls the pumps, wiring it pre-FPDM has the BAP supplying input power to the FPDM which allows the FPDM to control ouput, as it is designed to do, it just gives it more voltage to do so with. Wiring it post-FPDM has the output from the FPDM as the BAP's input and the BAP increases the voltage between the FPDM and the pumps. Now exactly why that doesn't work so well I'm not sure,maybe it is because the PCm is calling for a certain pump voltage, but that is being stepped up, and the PCM is constantly fighting the BAP? But I have seen first hand that it doesn't work as well as pre. The one time I tried post he fuel delivery seemed to be somewhat erratic, and the pumps could be heard constanlty running when the key was turned on. We went back to pre needless to say. I will say the duty cycle was slightly lower with it post though.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LargeOrangeFont
1) install TB and plenum
2) rotate the TPS CW(opposite throttle movement) then snug the screws
3) plug IAC in (DO NOT SCREW IT ON, LEAVE IT OFF)
4) duct tape over the IAC holes on the plenum
5) have someone start the car(DO NOT TOUCH THE GAS PEDAL) if it won't start, turn the butterfly stop screw in a bit, try to start again(repeat till running)
6) adjust the stop screw till you get the idle to 700-750RPM
7) let the car idle for 5-10 min's
8) turn car off
9) remove duct tape, install IAC
10) turn key to "on position" (do not start car)
11) set TPS to about .98V, tighten the TPS
12) start car(DO NOT TOUCH THE GAS !!!!!!!!)
13) just let the car idle, let the computer "LEARN" for 10min's
14) turn car off
15) done
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hpbyhermann
The lower drive drives all the accessories, including the supercharger. With a larger diameter lower pulley the speed that the upper pulley turns is ramped up QUICKER due the increase in mechanical leverage because of the diameter increase of the lower pulley. Even if the the final blower drive ratio is the same the blower speed will hit faster due to this increase in leverage. In simple terms think of it as a rear end gear change for the blower. Hope this helps some....and I DO find that lower cars do make better torque #'s on my dyno that stock lower cars. Hermann 
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E.T List and Modification Idea! - ModularFords.com
EATON 1/4 MILE 130 MPH CLUB (Non-nitrous)
BADASS03SVT............132.50 (Auto/SRA)
F8LSNAKE..................131.84 (6spd/SRA)
Rice Eatr...................131.18 (6spd/SRA)
IronTerp....................130.45 (6spd/IRS)
sonic03snake..............130.35 (6spd/SRA)
Almo.........................130.34 (6spd/SRA) (non-ported!)
F8LSNAKE..................130.14 (6spd/IRS) (non-ported!)
03/04' MISC. WEIGHTS
OEM 17" Chrome w/ F1's....................49.8
OEM 17" Chrome w/ MT DR.................53.4
OEM 17" Chrome w/ Nitto DR..............52.4
Diamond 16x10 Rims w/ ET Street.......44.4
Bogart 16x10 w/ Hoosier 28" slick........36.4
Prostar 15x3.5 w/ 165 radialS..............27.2
Prostar 15x3.5 w/ ET Front..................22.8
Bogart 15x3.5 w/ ET FronT..................23.2
1" Hubcentric spacers.........................2.6
Diamond Racing rims..........................25
Et Streets - 16 x 11.5 x 26.................19.4
Battery w/ tray.................................37.6
Odyssey battery w/ bracket................15.4
Sway bar w/ brackets........................12.4
Spare tire........................................26.4
Jack & Crow bar................................6.6
Trunk pad.........................................6
Rear Seat - back...............................25.6
Rear seat - bottom............................11
Rear seat - head rest.........................5.6
Custom rear seat delet.......................8
Mott bar..........................................7.8
Stock H pipe....................................36
Magnaflow catted X..........................13.4
Prochamber for headers.....................16.4
Exhaust manifolds (2)........................16.8
MAC long tube headers.......................26.5
Eaton supercharger............................35
OEM plenum.....................................2.7
2.3 Gen II Whipple.............................47
Accufab plenum.................................2.4
Strange 10 way struts (2)...................24.4
'03 & '04 Cobra Supercharger Porting and Options:
Stage 1................................................. .30+ HP...................$295
Stage 4................................................. .50+ HP, 16+ TQ.......$545
Stage 4 w/ OEM TB & Plenum......................60+ HP, 16+ TQ......$745
Stage 5................................................. .55+ HP, 25+ TQ.......$695
Stage 5+ w/ enlarged single-blade plenum.....65+ HP, 35+ TQ.......$795
Stage 5+ w/ welded OEM TB & Plenum..........65+ HP, 35+ TQ.......$895
Stage 5+ w/ Accufab welded Plenum............70+ HP, 40+ TQ.......$895
Stage 5+ w/ large oval TB & welded Plenum...75+ HP, 45+ TQ......$1395
Quote:
Originally Posted by RWTD
Anothing two things to throw in the mix here:
1: ECT temps will cause variations in AFR. If you tune them cooler, they will almost always run richer. I HIGHLY recommend ALL tuners to start tuning the cars with ECT at NORMAL OPERATING TEMPERATURE. Yes, that means 185+ ECT. I never tune vehicles with ECT's less than 185, and generally let them get to 190+ before even making the pull. Same on the GM vehicles (they make their most power in the 190+ range anyway).
On a side note, if you don't have some form of head cooling mod, cylinders #7 and #8 can and will be quite a bit hotter than the other cylinders, especially under high boost. As we all know, these are usually the cylinders to let go.
2: Just because your bank is reading 12.0 doesn't mean that every cylinder is 12.0. One could be 11.7, another 11.9, another 12.3, and another 12.1. Keep in mind, you're measuring the culmination of those cylinders on that bank. This is yet another reason why having flow-matched injectors are extremely crucial. It has been shown that SD 60s have a variance of up to +/- 6%, and that is quite scary to think about.
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Ice Box Strategies
1) It is possible to get a IAT2 cooling benefit from the PFab, LFP, True Forge style intercooler reservoir if used correctly. Certainly having a larger capacity tank in the trunk can have big advantages, but for the majority of us, the expense and hassle of this setup does not merit the limited track opportunities where it will come in handy. Plus, it weighs more!!! (even though the weight is at least over the rear wheels.....).
2) Obviously cooler days in the 50's and 60's will help here, but this is where you're going to have the best opportunity to set
PR's with Terminators anyway. We race for fun in the summer and for records in March, April, October, and November! It will certainly help in the heat, but not to the same degree.
3) Track rentals or uncrowded/short wait track days, where you do not have to wait long in the staging lanes, is a big benefit.
4) You need to cool down the intercooler/supercharger as much as possible after you arrive at the track or make a run, by draining and adding ice in the pit area and letting the IC pump circulate for 20-30 minutes. Make sure your battery is good to go here! Do this immediately after you return to the pits. Sometimes I'll go thru 2 iceing cycles here, but one good one will usually cool it down pretty well.
5) Recommend a 45 to 60 minute wait between runs.
6) To maximize your iceing strategy, the last thing you do before leaving for the staging lanes is drain the reservoir tank again and then add 4-5 "blocks" of ice, (see pic below), into your reservoir tank, topping it off with typical bag ice chips. Your IC pump will be off at this time. You can just use regular chip ice, but it will probably be gone during your run in 2nd gear or so, while the blocks can possibly last through 4th gear.
7) Advance to the staging lanes and keep your car off as much as possible while you're waiting in line. This will conserve your ice and keep your supercharger cooler.
8) Make your run and watch your ET/MPH potentially improve to new records!
I fill 25 or so of these with water, (about 2/3rds full), the night before going to the track, and right before I leave for the staging lanes, pull 4-5 of them out of the cooler, tear the cup away from the ice block and drop the block into the tank.
Use this setup to "jumper" your IC pump in the pits:
IronTerp 03' Cobra Performance Modifications:
Steigemeier Stage IV ported Eaton
2.90 RR upper pulley, 6 lb. lower pulley
Dragon throttle body & Posi ported plenum
Nazman ported lower intake manifold
MAC long tube headers w/ MAC off road ProChamber
Magnaflow catback
Amazon CAI w/ 10" S & B filter
BAP w/ wire upgrade
NGK TR7 Spark Plugs gapped at .035
MAFxtender
Street tune: 21 degrees timing, 11.6 A/F on 93 octane
Race tune: 24 degrees timing, 11.6 A/F on 101 octane
MGW shifter
UPR Front K member kit w/ 12"/250 lb springs & Stange adjustable struts
QA1 adjustable rear shocks, IRS bushings, brackets, & brace
MM full length subframe connectors
Bogart D-10's with ET Fronts and Hoosier 28" slicks
Race weight = 3,600 w/ driver (349 lbs of weight reduction)