Pulling this one from the past, and I've been fighting the problem for a while.
2001 Cobra, V2-SQ on a Lightning MAF draw through, with baffle installed away from MAF.
Cleaned MAF
New Plugs
8 New Ford COPS
Cleaned IAC
New DPFE
??? Stumped! It'll happen when crawling in traffic like described, and sometimes dies going slow in parking lots (power steering strain), and sometimes dies when coming to the light.
If you want my honest opinion, I say get rid of the draw through set up. When mine was draw through it barely idled and ran like crap at part throttle. The set up I had when I wrote this was a Lightning MAF with a MAFia extender. Now I'm running an SCT 2400 MAF in the same spot as my LMAF and it's working so much better. No dips at idle and no worrying about it stalling.
Right now my MAF is in the fender, and the discharge pipe is a single section piece from the blower to the throttle body. Does Vortech make discharge pipes that'll fit a MAF in there? Am I going to have to hack up the pipe that I have, or make something out of PVC (niether which I really want to do).
I guess I'm just asking what parts I would need to convert a V2-SQ into a blow through.
I picked up a flange from VMP Tuning that allows the sensor to be installed into a pipe. I don't use the actual MAF housing. It's mounted in the pipe that runs to the throttle body. I'm running a Procharger D1.
Huh, I just looked at that VMP flange and it looks damned clever and promising.
I'm going to shoot this pic to VMP, see what they say about attaching the flange there. The only problem I could see is that the discharge tube is expanding as it approaches the TB, but if I have it welded that may not be an issue.
guys just FYI, ive had had MANY set ups on my car, N/A dyno tune,P1 blow through and draw through, D1 blow through and draw through, 24lb 42lb and 60lb injectors, TT set up, PVC Delete, EGR delete, 2 different intakes, 4 different Mafs, direrter plates for maf back wash... ect ect..... and all the setups have had that same issue to some effect. Im 100% sure its something that is changed in the tune from the factory tune.
At one point i even put the factory tune back in with the blower on it, and they stalling issue went away. so its something in the aftermarket tune.
if you dont have an aftermarket tune, its the IACV or a dirty maf or bad plugs or coils, from what ive experenced
Last edited by no_slow_svt; 10-28-2009 at 02:37 PM.
Well, that just put the brakes on going blow through.
How were your experiences blow through and draw through?
if your tuner knows what he is doing, he will be able to tune either one just fine, its just a matter of adjusting the fuel for where ever you end up putting the meter.
I personally like blow through.
depending on what kinda piping set up you have, draw throughs are kinda hard to fit in tight areas(like the passenger side fenderwell if you have a centi style S/C with a power pipe)
Definitely got the centri, with powerpipe and the MAF/filter are in the fenderwell. It was a PITA to get it all connected, wife had to steady the powerpipe while I wormed my hands into the fender.
I've had same problem, and as most, have cleaned/replaced the MAF and the IAC and the problem still exists. New motor but same computer (stock tune), and it still stalls.
It is either in the computer or it might even be a drivetrain issue IMHO; Everyone knows the drivetrain is a little "loose," (I'm sure you've felt and heard the infamous knock). Although I never thought of this as a possibility until reading some of these posts, I do find it to be a very slight possibility at that.
It does suck sometimes rolling to a light looking stalled and having to bring the car back to life around campus, only sometimes though...it does have it's advantages.
Last edited by Boogie Man; 11-05-2009 at 06:02 PM.
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MMR 4.6 Street Mod 800 "The Aluminator Shortblock Killer" + Vortech V2 + Paxton Intercooler...Installed and finished 10/24/09...breaking it in!
My car does this and even stalls out when I put the clutch in and start slowing to a stop. IDK its pretty scary when your comming up to a stop sign or light and suprise you have no power steering or brakes lol
+1
Using Diablo can tune here
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1999 COBRA #1945 of 4040 Performance Mods SRA 3.27's - Trick Flow Diff cover - SLP CB w/ Bassani Race Mufflers (Round) - Mangnaflow Catted X-Pipe - JLT RAI - Diablo Tuner - MM FLSFC - MM LCA’s - Steeda UCA’s -OE 10th Anniv. 17X9/10 w/ 315 MT DR's - Mach 1 Springs - KYB Adj. Shocks - Pro 5.0 Shifter w/ MGW handle & Steeda Insulated knob Appearance 03 Cobra Side Scoops - Black Crystal Headlights - 01 Cobra bumper - 10th Anniv. CF Interior Parts - White Saleen Door inserts - 03/04 Pedals Waiting to Install: 10th Anniv. Steering wheel & 7" Touch Screen Radio
i would replace it. IAC valves dont hold up well to cleaning.
____________________________________ Current Vehicle:
2000 Mustang GT-03 COBRA MOTOR -Kenne Bell 2.2L Blowzilla
Bassani Catted x to Borla Stinger Catback-Eaton True Trac 31 spline Diff with 3.55-Moser 31 spline axles with c clip eliminators
Dynamic Racing Upper and lower control arms -CHE Extreme Axle brace-MM FL Subframe Connectors
Quote:
Originally Posted by 04cobra408
F it, let the brown bagger move in Worst case you can just throw your hotdog in her hallway everyday. Not to mention You would be getting paid to lay that pipe if shes payin that month's half of the rent lol
pimpin, just keep your pimp hand strong and a bottle of baby powder in reach in case you need to and all should be good.
Quote:
Originally Posted by boosted2000si
They should change it from "Fing Fast" to "Blown the F up" Cause realistically, thats what going to happen when you use 6th to go Fing fast.
yea im thinking of going back to my tuner and telling him only bad part is hes a 2 hour drive away. but ive noticed a difrence usually i always run shell vpower but the other day i stopped at bp and filled up and ever since i havent had the problem i know shell adds some kind of nitrogen or some bull shit to there stuff maybe that causes it too. just throwin it out there not sure of it
I had that problem too. It had to do with my MAF. The LMAF has a limited contact area with the flange on the adapter that connects the one side of it to the tubing. It's easy for the gasket to become blown out. If it's a blow through, it'll leak out metered air. If it's a draw through, it'll suck in un-metered air.
Pull out your MAF and un bolt the adapter from the MAF and check the gasket. Even if the gasket looks ok, there might still be a leak. Take special note of the plastic mating surface where the LMAF bolts to the adapter, and you'll know what I'm talking about. I tried replacing the gasket, but it blew out again as soon as I got on the boost. So, I just JB welded the whole thing together. You might also want to clean the MAF while you have it out.
If it's not the MAF, it's something else with the boost plumbing. It's either sucking in un-metered air before the blower but after the MAF, or it's leaking out metered air somewhere between the blower and the intake. Also check the vacuum connections.
I agree, it's annoying as hell and your car shouldn't do it. I thought it was with the tune until I fixed the leak, and then it had a perfect idle.
change your 02 sensors asap. i had the same exact issue and the ford dealership actually worsend the problem. my car had around 60k and the problem started.just swap em.
everyones got diffrent things it could be. my cars got new 02s from autozone on it and still doing it. should i get the $110 ford ones or are they fine? and the gas thing i spoke of earlier. well i lied. the car did it yesterday, but it has seem to help the idle dips.
Is there a boost bypass valve anywhere in that system? I'm not sure which vortech systems have them and which ones do not.
One thing that's very important with a draw through MAF system is that no metered air escapes... it all has to go into the engine or be recirculated after the MAF but before the blower (so the metered air isnt escaping, and not being metered again).
If metered air is escaping from anywhere, it'll create a temporary rich condition when you let off the gas. The throttle plates close, restricting the air into the engine, but if metered air is leaking, the computer *thinks* more air is going into the engine than it's actually getting, and it adds extra fuel.
If you have a bypass valve that vents to the atmosphere or recirculates to the un-metered side, this could cause it. If you have any loose tubing or leaks in the system, this could cause it too. Just trying to eliminate possibilities.
Coincidentally, I've got the exact opposite problem now. Rather than my idle dropping when I push in the clutch, I've got a "hanging idle" that stays above 2000 RPM when I'm decelerating in neutral, and slowly settles around 1100 RPM idle. Off the topic I know, but I feel your frustration.
- Trick Flow Diff cover - SLP CB w/ Bassani Race Mufflers (Round) - Mangnaflow Catted X-Pipe - JLT RAI - Diablo Tuner - MM FLSFC - MM LCA’s - Steeda UCA’s -OE 10th Anniv. 17X9/10 w/ 315 MT DR's - Mach 1 Springs - KYB Adj. Shocks - Pro 5.0 Shifter w/ MGW handle & Steeda Insulated knob Appearance 03 Cobra Side Scoops - Black Crystal Headlights - 01 Cobra bumper - 10th Anniv. CF Interior Parts - White Saleen Door inserts - 03/04 Pedals Waiting to Install: 10th Anniv. Steering wheel & 7" Touch Screen Radio
and all should be good.
Linear Mode
