I had my MM full length subframes welded in last night, I suppose I'm use to the old 87-93s where you could tell a huge difference after a set. The newer model mustangs must be a little beefier because it didn't make that huge of a difference. Don't get me wrong I can feel it's a little stiffer, its just not as dramatic of a difference as compared to the older foxbodies.
I had my MM full length subframes welded in last night, I suppose I'm use to the old 87-93s where you could tell a huge difference after a set. The newer model mustangs must be a little beefier because it didn't make that huge of a difference. Don't get me wrong I can feel it's a little stiffer, its just not as dramatic of a difference as compared to the older foxbodies.
Do you have a Vert..? Theres a big difference with a vert.. I cant speak for the coupes..
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2001 silver cobra vert. H&R sport springs. jlt cai. Borla stinger catback. 95 style cobra r hood. FR500's. More mods in future.
No question the SN95 chassis is stiffer than the foxbody, I agree with your assessment completely. But since we have a stiffer chassis to start, I figure I'll keep on improving it by adding the MMFLSC's and I am planning on installing jacking rails and cross bracing which may add significantly to the overall unibody structure as well as provide generous jacking points w/o screwing up the pinch weld. No matter what, for the cost, it's a good mod.
I have MM FLSFCs and I also agree. I had mine put on like 5 years ago, but I don't really remember noticing a huge difference. I recall the car feeling more solid over bumps and whatnot, but it wasn't anything crazy.
I didn't have sfc's on my old Notch or the Cobra and when I was on the gas with the Notch I was surprised it didn't twist like a pretzel. The Cobra is much better but I still need to add sfc's.
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Vortech V2SQ and Paxton Intercooler package F/S. PM Inquiries.
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Originally Posted by Rick James
+1, haha. I think the first time I saw this video I fell off my dinosaur and broke my wooden underwear. Cool vid tho.....
If you don't mind cutting up the floor pan in your Cobra and doing extensive welding, the Griggs Frame kit will provide a very noticeable increase in chassis stiffness. I installed the Griggs frame kit and the difference was dramatic.
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2001 performance red SVT Mustang Cobra
SVTP Camaro and Firebird owners
I could tell a huge difference with my 99 Vert. I bought the Matrix system but it fit like terrible so I sent it back and made my own. Huge improvement.
Go jack up the car and you can tell a difference. I can lift one side as a whole now instead of one tire at a time.
I've never understood this, I can lift up one side of the car at a time, no SF's, or other chassis stuff yet (coupe). Opening/closing the doors while jacked up may be a different story, but haven't had to deal with that one yet.
I saw a pretty good improvement with mine, but I thought the cobra was decent already. My fox with FLSFC AND a welded in 8 point cage, boxed to the frame would pop the hatch open in 1st if the car hooked hard, LOL.
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2001 mineral grey cobra. Built motor, BIG cams, 4.10's, spray, susp and brake stuff.
my car is not a vert, but an 01 coupe with almost 100K on it. for the amount of mileage on it im surprised how strong it runs and how rigid the chassis is. the subframe connectors definitely helped. i really noticed it today on my way to work in a few areas on a back road where i really got after it. biggest difference i noticed is when you point it in a direction, it goes immediately instead of feeling the chassis flex a little first. i just wanted to make sure i had a solid foundation before i install the rear bushing kit, gears, and the rest of my exhaust.
I know what you mean. I love the fact that it pretty much goes where you point it. I went from my 84 Capri to this and stock for stock, those fox bodies seemed like I was driving silly putty compared to the 01.
That's for dame sure. I can get 3 wheels off the ground at times. It's downright scary trying to take the car down when it is on 4 stands.
no shit!!!!
i always get nevous when doing that..actually in abotu five mins i am gonna put the 01 on jack stands, pour in some stabil, take out the battery and put the cover on for the winter
it's snowing outside right now lol
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2001 Zinc Yellow Cobra #2398/3867 Tuned by HorsepowerByHermann
You'll probably notice an improvement when you go over your first set of railroad tracks. That's where I noticed it most. Way gooder.
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1991 GT - titanium, KB S/C, AFR heads, Magnaflow ss xpipe and cat back, MSD ign, Lentech street terminator plus tranny...etc.etc. actually only thing stock is the cam.
2001 zinc yellow vert - Vogtland springs, MMFLSC's, MGW shifter, godspeed 18x10 rims, Bassani ss catted X, MAC ss catback, killer kowalski pistol grip, mckinney raceworks catch can
2008 Pontiac G8 GT, Liquid Red with Pypes axleback
I think its the most noticeable after you drive it with the subs in for a while, and then get into a car without them. Then you realize how bad it actually is.
I've never understood this, I can lift up one side of the car at a time, no SF's, or other chassis stuff yet (coupe). Opening/closing the doors while jacked up may be a different story, but haven't had to deal with that one yet.
But how much higher is one tire than the other? Before the subs, the front tire would be pretty high before the back tire was off. Now, there isn't much difference.
Keep in mind sub-frame connectors will stiffen only the floorboards section of the car but will do nothing to stiffen the chassis on the front or rear end body structure. There are huge gaps on some critical joints which will flex and fatigue the metal over time. Sub-frames do almost nothing for twist between the axles and only work to reduce deflection (bending). I have done substantial chassis reinforcement to my 04 and have extensive knowledge about the chassis structure and how this car is assembled. Think about what happens to the chassis in a 600 hp drag car running slicks and gears when you do a 5000 rpm clutch dump and you can see how much it torques the chassis which will loosen up rather quickly. Plus the spot welds are far and few between. The SN95 does have fairly thick metal on some critical areas and look absolutely stout compared to the "Swiss Cheese" Fox chassis but it gained a few hundred pounds in the process. The S197 chassis has been stiffened up over the SN95 to the same degree the SN95 is over the Fox chassis.
The Hans Racecraft and GoldenWest subs will add substantial stiffness to the chassis over the rectangular section tubing used on most sub-frame kits plus you can jack the car up NASCAR style. I was astounded by the difference in ride quality leaving the parking after the Hans were installed on my car. Another thing to consider is most sub-frames beef up the inner seat mounts which give the illusion they are doing more then they really are by transmitting more of the road shock to your fanny. Not saying sub-frames are not worth it, quite the contrary. The rocker panels and the roof rail are the only members tying both ends of the car together. The subs augment the rocker panels ......I won't even broach the topic of the integrity of a vert chassis Add coilovers and you just opened up another can of worms. Mustangs is not exclusive to this problem
by all the MMFLSFCs fanboys in here
Add coilovers and you just opened up another can of worms. Mustangs is not exclusive to this problem 
You beat me to it.
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