AFCO H/E with Single SPAL Fan

[Rob_03Mach]

I'm challenging Jared, Justin & Van to a H/E show off........ JUST KIDDING guys! :beer:


It's no C&R or AFCO Dual fan H/E, but this will be great improvement over my OEM H/E, reservior and will meet my needs for my setup.

I will be doing some datalogging to see the improvement, as soon as it stops raining...!

 

[sfadchi]

I'm challenging Jared, Justin & Van to a H/E show off........ JUST KIDDING guys! :beer:


It's no C&R or AFCO Dual fan H/E, but this will be great improvement over my OEM H/E, reservior and will meet my needs for my setup.

I will be doing some datalogging to see the improvement, as soon as it stops raining...!

:lol:

 

[que4dog]

Wait, it may not be a bad idea. I am sure that the C&R dual fan setup is far superior but I have an afco and it actually does well. Maybe I am not generating a lot of extra heat due to the turbos but I think adding a fan will definitely improve cooling with the AFCO.

How is the fit?

 

[Spawn]

Bumper to bumper traffic and stop lights is whats gonna change the most. I am looking at doing the same thing. Its not like I am running Daytona very often.

 

[Van@RevanRacing]

Bumper to bumper traffic and stop lights is whats gonna change the most. I am looking at doing the same thing. Its not like I am running Daytona very often.

Come on out and go for a ride! Daytona is a once a year event and I'm very fortunate to be able to run it. If you can come out on Thursday between 12 and 4 you can take track tours for free where the lead instructors discuss transition, braking, turn in, apex and track out for every turn on the track.

Keep in mind, when I run Daytona it's the 24 Hour Rolex Course so the speeds are not consistent at 180 MPH +... There are a number of transitions like braking for turn one which is generally taken at 70+ MPH then you slam it down for turn 2 40 MPH +/- (walls everywhere) and then nail the throttle toward the international horseshoe, heel/toe down shift, finish the turn and then you get on the throttle through the 4 exchange and then prepare for a hard right into turn 5 at about 50+ and then back on the throttle shortly and prepare for turn six at about 60+ then into NASCAR turn 1. Wide Open Throttle Thru NASCAR turn one and two down the back stretch and then hard on the brakes heel/toe down shift into the "Bus Stop" and then back into Wide Open Throttle entering NASCAR turn 3 through 4 and get ready for turn 1 again.

I'll make a suggestion to the above picture. Use an "S" Blade Style fan versus a straight blade fan. The "S" blades actually puller a higher CFM than straight blade so it should help to increase CFM and cooling efficiency. I'm not sure if they make "S" blades in that size fan..............

Although I have open tracked and datalogged my car countless times I also datalogged and drove my car all over town for hours on end data logging IAT2's. Stop and Go traffic is definitely a big enemy and that's where the dual puller fan design really helped. It's also where most people who own there GT500 are going to be driving it. :thumbsup: The biggest factor is the heat transfer into the intercooler and intercooling system after the car is warm and you park it. Run in for lunch and come back out, start the car and the IAT2's are 160+ degrees due to heat transfer from the block to the intercooler core. Generally in my data and testing I could see 160 + degrees after sitting for 30 to 45 minutes. After restarting the car and data logging the fans and heat exchanger would lower IAT2's to under 130 in just a couple of minutes and continue lower even faster as the heat is extracted at idle. In driving conditions the fans and the windspeed of the vehicle at travel speed help to continue to lower the temps. It's when you stop at a light or you are moving slowly that the IAT2's run up rampantly without fans.

Good luck with the data logging and testing.

 

[Spawn]

I have a couple more small mods to finish befoer I put her on the road course. I dont want to get pulled before I get to run it good.

I was told the catch can for the rear end is a must as it gets hot and sprays oil and smokes from the pipes. Cooling mods are under way. I havent upgraded the stock radiator yet and want to see how bad the stock one is then that will be the next big cooling mod, of course a cooler thermostat as well. I have the road courses in mind for my next events as well as a couple drag race events like Bradenton in March.

 

[Van@RevanRacing]

I have a couple more small mods to finish befoer I put her on the road course. I dont want to get pulled before I get to run it good.

I was told the catch can for the rear end is a must as it gets hot and sprays oil and smokes from the pipes. Cooling mods are under way. I havent upgraded the stock radiator yet and want to see how bad the stock one is then that will be the next big cooling mod, of course a cooler thermostat as well. I have the road courses in mind for my next events as well as a couple drag race events like Bradenton in March.

The rear catch can is a good idea. I had to battle that in the very beginning. Even worse is the differential fluid getting on the inside of the right rear tire. The rear end will come around quick. If you can, I would also recommend a catch can for the tranny as well. I run one because the tranny fluid heats up and as it does it spits out as well and will hit the exhaust. You'll get puffs of white smoke which could eventually lead to a Mechanical Black Flag (Meatball). The trans fluid can get on the tires too which can make for some slick track conditions. The stock radiator functions well but it's all a matter of boost and horsepower level. Even with a stock blower I could get the ECT up to 250+ degrees at Sebring. That was with a 160 TSTAT in place too.

If you do go out to a road course try draining the radiator and flushing out the heads and refilling with water and water wetter and mabye a couple of cups of anti-freeze. That will really help. Especially if it's a once in a while type of thing. You can also try running without a TSTAT on the road course. That can actually help cool it down a little bit as well.

 

[2008vistablue]

Can you tell me which SPAL fan you went with? I looked at their website and wanted to get the same one you had but they have a lot of choices. Found the low profile ones but wondered if you could list the part no.? Thanks!

 

[Rob_03Mach]

Can you tell me which SPAL fan you went with? I looked at their website and wanted to get the same one you had but they have a lot of choices. Found the low profile ones but wondered if you could list the part no.? Thanks!

I got the 7.5 inch (pull) fan. See link below.

Spal Electric Fans - The Fan Man


Thanks,

 

[Six_Offender]

i dont know if you mentioned it, but what is it going to run off of, a switch or constant power on accessory?

 

[thebull]

My IAT's are 113-118 at steady cruise and under 100 under WOT....>>>>No Fans...E85 Bitches!!!!!!:rockon:

In the Florida heat...never really over 125 at red lights.

 

[kent1]

i dont know if you mentioned it, but what is it going to run off of, a switch or constant power on accessory?

+1

 

[Van@RevanRacing]

I got the 7.5 inch (pull) fan. See link below.

Spal Electric Fans - The Fan Man


Thanks,

That should work. You are limited in space due to core density and the back of the fan hitting the A/C Condenser. For control you should use a relay and trigger it On via of the water pump relay or water pump voltage wire. (the white one with the red stripe)

 

[2008vistablue]

I got the 7.5 inch (pull) fan. See link below.

Spal Electric Fans - The Fan Man


Thanks,

Thanks a lot!!!:-D

 

[Rob_03Mach]

That should work. You are limited in space due to core density and the back of the fan hitting the A/C Condenser. For control you should use a relay and trigger it On via of the water pump relay or water pump voltage wire. (the white one with the red stripe)

Just to clarify....this fan does work. The below link is the dimensions of the fan. The max width of the fan is 2.05". There is over 3" from the back of the H/E to the AC Condenser. Bottom line the fan does NOT hit the AC condenser or AC lines. It has approx 1 inch to spare...:beer:

http://www.the-fan-man.com/shop/images/7.jpg

I did what Van mentioned above as to power. I used the power supply from the intercooler pump and put a switch in the car. I replaced the intercooler pump #6 fuse from 10 amp to 15 amp fuse. Both fan and pump are 10 amps total.

My tune is set for the intercooler pump to come on around 50 degrees downstream temps, so the pump comes on pretty quick which supplies power to both, but I'm able to turn the fan on or off.

 

[me32]

Just to clarify....this fan does work. The below link is the dimensions of the fan. The max width of the fan is 2.05". There is over 3" from the back of the H/E to the AC Condenser. Bottom line the fan does NOT hit the AC condenser or AC lines. It has approx 1 inch to spare...:beer:

http://www.the-fan-man.com/shop/images/7.jpg

I did what Van mentioned above as to power. I used the power supply from the intercooler pump and put a switch in the car. I replaced the intercooler pump #6 fuse from 10 amp to 15 amp fuse. Both fan and pump are 10 amps total.

My tune is set for the intercooler pump to come on around 50 degrees downstream temps, so the pump comes on pretty quick which supplies power to both, but I'm able to turn the fan on or off.

sounds like a good setup. the switch idea is nice

 

[evasive]

They do not. SPAL USA

 

[Rob_03Mach]

sounds like a good setup. the switch idea is nice

Thanks...

They do not. SPAL USA

Correct - SPAL does not make a "S" or curve blade fan in this size (7.5") But, this is why I didn't go with a "S" or Curve blade fan...

Q. What's the difference between the straight blade fans and the curved blade fans?

A. The straight blade fans provide maximum cooling for their size. The curved blade fans sacrifice a small amount of performance in return for a much quieter fan. If noise is an issue, go with the curved blade fans. If ultimate performance is the objective, use the straight blade fans. :beer:

 

[Van@RevanRacing]

Thanks...



Correct - SPAL does not make a "S" or curve blade fan in this size (7.5") But, this is why I didn't go with a "S" or Curve blade fan...

Q. What's the difference between the straight blade fans and the curved blade fans?

A. The straight blade fans provide maximum cooling for their size. The curved blade fans sacrifice a small amount of performance in return for a much quieter fan. If noise is an issue, go with the curved blade fans. If ultimate performance is the objective, use the straight blade fans. :beer:

Actually the "S" blade fans pull more CFM versus the straight blade fan. That's why we chose the "S" blade. Even with dual 9" S blade fans you can only hear them when you are outside of the car.

 

[Rob_03Mach]

Actually the "S" blade fans pull more CFM versus the straight blade fan. That's why we chose the "S" blade. Even with dual 9" S blade fans you can only hear them when you are outside of the car.

Is there a difference between "S" and curve blade fans? Why would SPAL say Straight blades are better? Size? Either way they didn't have "S" blade fans that small...;-)