Detailed my buddies z28 this weekend. I think it has around 100k on the clock, he got it for an awesome price ($4k) and it runs and drives great, just needed some freshening up.
Drivers Fender Before:
After:
Drivers Door Before:
After:
Hood Before:
After:
Pass Fender Before:
After:
Miscellaneous
Heres some full shots he took yesterday. I told him to take some pics in the sun with it reflecting off, this is what he sent me lol:
Steps:
Wash w/dish soap (all we had)
Claybar (mothers 80g kit)
1st pass, Optimum Compound w/Orange Pad with PC
2nd pass, Optimum Polish w/Orange Pad with PC. Repeated where necessary.
3rd pass, Optimum Poly-Seal w/White pad with PC.
Natty's Red hand applied with microfiber brick thingies. two coats on upper surfaces (hood, trunk, etc).
Final once-over with Optimum Instant Detailer and Gloss Enhancer
Natty's Wheel Wax on all 4, wheels cleaned inside and out.
Black WOW on all trims
We are gonna do the engine bay with some Simple Green followed up by some of this CD2 engine detailer stuff, awesome combo, just didnt get a chance to do it this weekend.
id say i was able to do 95-98% of swirl and defect removal. Some scratches held up to even an attempt with Compound and a Yellow pad, but you could barely catch them with a fingernail so that was no-bueno to begin with, however they were able to be severely cut down in size. I spent 5hrs on Thurs, 5hrs on Fri and 8hrs on Sat on this car. Turned out great and he was ecstatic with the results, knowing he had the cleanest car in all of Stockton/Lodi at that point. Though the time involved has made me really start to look at a rotary of some kind, i need to cut that 18hr detail time in half, if not more, while getting even better results. Some of the pics shown were only after the 1st pass with the Compound as well, i didnt remember to take final pics at the same angle, we tried to rush out to a car meet in Sacramento so he could show it off.
and yes, he is ditching the ricer projectors with the quickness. While they dont look good, they dont look too bad, but they still look 100x better than the faded and cracked stockers that came with the car.
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2010 Fusion SE | 6spd Auto | Stock as hell | The DD
1998 GST Spyder | 14b turbo swap | 3" Catback | Evo8 BOV | Still slow | ECMlink V3 Full | Moar go in the works.....
2003 Redfire Cobra | 448wp/435wtq | 2.93" Upper / Stock Lower | bunch of other stuff | SOLD
Quote:
Originally Posted by Carl Sagan
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Last edited by thomas91169; 09-28-2009 at 05:07 AM..
Took too long though, really looking to get a rotary and cut the time in half. Plus no matter what, after 2-3 panels my pad becomes gummed up, and i was barely using any product.
pretty nice work man. i need some optimum compound myself.
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2000 BAB GT, Procharged, 4.10's, No Cash Racing built motor, cms stage 2 blower cams, 8 lbs 412 rwhp and 450 rwtq, tuned by speedy dyno
Took too long though, really looking to get a rotary and cut the time in half. Plus no matter what, after 2-3 panels my pad becomes gummed up, and i was barely using any product.
squirt some water on the pad or panel your working on occasionally and work it like you regularly do with polish, and your pads won't ever get clogged
But clogged pads are just the name of the game, Bring extras. Even the sacred detailing gods over at Autopia say you can't get away from it.
actually i was able to do an entire C5 Vette this weekend with just two pads. I was using a dimpled orange pad that caked up pretty quick no matter what, and then switched to a cross-cut orange and gave it a misting of some quick detail about every 4 sections, and it stayed pretty porous.
Yeah, I have noticed that hitting the pad with QD would help for me. But I could only do it 2 times at most before I had to wash the pad or switch to a fresh one.
In my case it might have to do with the POS low profile orange pads I got on closeout too.
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