Harbor Freight, $35 and $10 for a 2yr warranty. Comes with a 7" H&L backing plate. Yes, i know, not a real rotary. Well after doing some research, i found that this particular rotary is 9.8amp, the Flex and Makita are both rated at 10amp, while the DeWalt is only 8amps. Also the speed is 300-3000rpm, and its very comfortable with dial and trigger placement. If it breaks, i get to return it for a new one no questions asked for 2yrs, i figure for $45, its good enough to get me started.
got a spare C-Pillar from the attic i had from my 02 GT. Its black, so it was the perfect testbed, and was swirled and scratched to hell from being thrown around up there.
I was using the cheapo white pad that came with the Rotary. Started with Optimum CompoundII, worked it around at a low RPM, ramped it up a bit, went to town once it started breaking down i ramped it back down and finished it off. Had a few light swirls, so i went back over it with PolishII.
Before:
After:
I love it. Its a night and day difference over using the PC. It almost feels like it put the fun back into polishing. It took only a minute or so to do both passes. I could probably ramp up the RPM a bit, the dial indicator has 5 settings (Min, I, II, III, Max), i was only at around I (950rpm) when working it in, and the knob is very sensitive.
Tomorrow ill probably burn through the bumper cover to see how much it takes. After seeing a few vids online of what it takes to cause burn-through, im not as afraid anymore, all vids it took alot of pressure in one spot at full RPM with the most aggressive pad/compound combo.
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1998 GST Spyder
2003 Redfire Cobra | 448wp/435wtq | 2.93" Upper / Stock Lower | bunch of other stuff | SOLD
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeremy Clarkson
What it makes me feel though, is sad. I just can't help thinking that thanks to all sorts of things, the environment, the economy, problems in the Middle East, the relentless war on speed, cars like this will soon be consigned to the history books. I just have this horrible, dreadful feeling, that what I'm driving here, is an ending.
Yeah I've been polishing for a few years now and I got to step my game up to a rotary, the DA just takes to long especially if your using menzerna products. Good work man! To get a flawless finish are you going to try some wet sanding?
I was watching a few Meguiars videos back in the day, and they have tutorials how to wet sand the clear coat, and use a Rotary to make it a flawless finish.
I got the same thing for the price and the 2 year warranty you can't beat it. I'm new with the rotary also and I started slow at first(low rpm's) then went to about midway through, I started to turn it down after it starts slinging stuff everywhere. I plan on getting the Medguires products soon to help get the scratches out a little better along w/ some better pads. The only thing I find is that is kind of bulky to handle. I think if you stay out of the high rpm's, use little pressure, and always keep the product moving on the surface of the car it would help from burning the paint.
I still generally don't use the rotary on urethane parts for general safety, but as long as you slow it don't you won't have any issue.
I bought a used Hitachi. It's not the greatest, but it gets the job done. TONS faster than the PC; though the PC still has it's place for tight spots and sensitive areas. I'd def. say the rotary cuts your polishing time in 1/2 AND you get better results. Win/Win.
Practice with it some and just remember you're in control of it. It's not *as* hard as some make it out to be and I wish I had swapped sooner.
Like you said, it certainly put the fun back into polishing!
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04 Redfire Coupe, #187
09 GT500 Vista Blue/white stripe Coupe
Polishing with a rotary is slightly messier than a PC since it *can* create a little more dust/sling; but it's only bad if you use too much polish or don't spread it prior to upping your RPM.
Glad to hear you like the results with the Rotary. I have had my Makita for several years and it has broken yet. Well worth the money.
To reduce sling you need to use the right amount of polish or it slings. I normally apply two or three dime sized drops. Reducing sling really takes time and practice.
I polished my whole car with it last night. First time I ever used one, and I didn't even practic on anything first. I started hand polishing it first, and that quickly got old.
Hmmm I might have to pick up one of these at the local Harbor Freight. I will definitely practice on my Civic first before moving on to our other cars. The PC is a lot of work if you are doing paint correction.
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2003 Ford Mustang Cobra Convertible
99 Honda Civic (mods - 1 infant car seat and 1 toddler seat)
Horsepower - 106
I actually just bought the same buffer this morning. Worlds easier than than my PC that i was using. Here is a quick before and after of a spot of the hood
Before
After
Last edited by venomous_pony; 11-16-2009 at 12:17 AM.
yeah ive been using a bit less product and ramping up the RPM on a slower increment to make sure the product is nicely spread. jumping from 300 to 900rpm is insta-sling, but if i get there slowly as i work the product it all stays in pace.
JROC ive been practicing with the white pad that came with it, however i just got a 7" Purple wool foam pad thingy, and a 4.5" backer plate (so i can use my 6.5" pad arsenal), but have yet to have time to try them out. How long did it take for you to polish the entire car?
yeah ive been using a bit less product and ramping up the RPM on a slower increment to make sure the product is nicely spread. jumping from 300 to 900rpm is insta-sling, but if i get there slowly as i work the product it all stays in pace.
JROC ive been practicing with the white pad that came with it, however i just got a 7" Purple wool foam pad thingy, and a 4.5" backer plate (so i can use my 6.5" pad arsenal), but have yet to have time to try them out. How long did it take for you to polish the entire car?
Maybe three hours, but I don't remember exactly. I was running it at about 2.5 most of the time or inbetween the 2 and 3 speeds.
Using the Rotary was a cake walk. I think people over exaggerate how easy it is to burn the paint with a soft foam pad.
Here are some pictures after I was finished. Notice I missed a spot of wax on the hood in the first picture.
Just go in the store. I saw the Chicago one online as well for $39.99 a few months ago, then went into the store and the shelf said $49.99. I was about to go "eh" and walk out but on my way out the door they had an end-aisle display with a crapload of them with the sign saying $34.99.
I grabbed one today. I got the $10 replacement plan for the hell of it. The girl knocked it down to $27(!). With tax and the replacement plan about $40 and some change.
I'm going to end up getting a smaller backing plate and then some Lake Country pads. When my M205 comes in things should get interesting.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EVLSVT
I can't see how you can do that on the street unless your halfshafts are made out of legos.
I plan on getting some new pads and medguire's soon also. This weekend I'm going to try and get my hood done, I had to wet sand some of the scratches out that my neighbors kid had put on them while he was playing with a water gun. Scratched the hell out of it. Boy was I pissed.
Where did you guys find out what I II III etc means in RPM? Didn't see it in the manual.
you just have to get a feel for it.
most products dictate the speed requirements anyway. good rule of thumb
is between 2/3.
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592/589
13 PSI
FRPP-3:73-Kooks 1-7/8 L/T's
Steeda-LCA/UCA-Steeda-Adj Panhard-Steeda-CAI
Steeda-Springs-DSpecs-Shelby-Short Throw Shifter
Pro Sport Gauges-True Forged- 20 x 9.5- 20 x 11.0
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