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  1. #1
    Crazy SVT Poster CWCobra's Avatar
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    Clutch adjustment?

    I can't get used to the '03 clutch. Is there a simple way to adjust the clutch so that it engages/disengages closer to the top, not the floor?

    Thanks,
    CW
    '03 Cobra 'vert
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  2. #2
    Rookie SVT Poster
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    install a adjustable cable or a firewall adjuster
    going to the dark side

  3. #3
    Diehard Ford Fan
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    With the car OFF, put it in first gear. Reach down and with your hands, pull UP on the clutch pedal. You may or may not hear a click. With your foor press the clutch down to the floor. You have just exercised the clutch cable adjuster and taken out the clutch cable slack. This works much like an auto brake cable adjuster.

  4. #4
    Mild Mannered BrianR's Avatar
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    Originally posted by harry gilbert
    With the car OFF, put it in first gear. Reach down and with your hands, pull UP on the clutch pedal. You may or may not hear a click. With your foor press the clutch down to the floor. You have just exercised the clutch cable adjuster and taken out the clutch cable slack. This works much like an auto brake cable adjuster.
    I think he wants more slack, not less.

  5. #5
    Crazy SVT Poster CWCobra's Avatar
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    Well...now I'm confused...

    What I would like is to not have to push the clutch pedal all the way to the floor to get it to disengage, allowing a gear shift. Oftentimes, if I'm not VERY careful, I don't quite get the clutch pushed in all the way, and I miss a shift. Really embarrasing! Seems like if it's only one half inch from dead bottom against the floor, it still won't go into gear. Same problem from neutral to first, neutral to reverse, as well as in normal shifting. There's a whole lotta clutch travel there before it disengages. Does that mean I want more "slack", or less???
    Later,
    CW

  6. #6
    Crazy SVT Poster
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    I got the fix for you! My car did that.. Push the pedal to the floor and slide your foot off sideways with the pedal on the floor. You want it to come back to the top violently. This has to be done after new clutches are installed.. It resets it some how.

  7. #7
    Rookie SVT Poster 03BlackMamba's Avatar
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    I love the clutch in the '03..... It reminds me a lot of my old C5. My '97 Cobra clutch drove me nuts..... I even put in a new King Cobra clutch and quadrant adjuster (on the firewall) but still didn't like the clutch pedal engaging all the way towards the top. The new '03 is exactly the way I like it. It spells Muscle to me.........AND more of the right feel to me...... Thats my personal likes though....
    '03 Black Cobra Coupe #1218
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  8. #8
    SVT God jtfx6552's Avatar
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    Harry described the procedure correctly.

    When you lift the clutch pedal a tab releases the "paw" from the "quadrant". The quadrant is spring loaded to rotate in the direction that takes up the slack in the cable. Release the upward pull on the pedal and the paw will re-engage the quadrant in the new tighter position.

    If there was enough slack for the quadrant to move at least "a tooth" relative to the paw, the clutch will now grab higher up.

    JT
    JT

  9. #9
    Bluesmobile Dana's Avatar
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    CWCobra,
    What you are looking for, I think, is a quick release quadrant. It changes the clutch linkage geometry so that less movement by the pedal results in additional clutch action. I put one in a few weeks ago and now the engage/release point is much higher up in the pedal travel.There was another thread on the board about this very recently.

    If you go with the Steeda though, their directions are not exactly correct for installing the firewall adjuster.

    The fix costs about $80.
    http://www.steeda.com/store/-catalog...ickRelease.htm

    Dana
    Last edited by Dana; 10-07-2002 at 06:56 PM.
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    Whipple tuned by HBH, BilletFlow stuff (and Doug didn't even ask me to post that), Raptor Shift Light, Solid Axle w/3.73, etc, etc, etc...

  10. #10
    Diehard Ford Fan
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    Originally posted by CWCobra
    Well...now I'm confused...

    What I would like is to not have to push the clutch pedal all the way to the floor to get it to disengage, allowing a gear shift. Oftentimes, if I'm not VERY careful, I don't quite get the clutch pushed in all the way, and I miss a shift. Really embarrasing! Seems like if it's only one half inch from dead bottom against the floor, it still won't go into gear. Same problem from neutral to first, neutral to reverse, as well as in normal shifting. There's a whole lotta clutch travel there before it disengages. Does that mean I want more "slack", or less???
    Later,
    CW
    Forget about "slack" -- the clutch adjustment procedure I posted earlier comes right out of the SVT manual, and fixed MY problem of having to push the clutch through the firewall to get it disengaged. After the adjustment, mine starts to disengage 1" from top and is fully disengaged 2" from bottom. It seems to be a characteristic of the '03 clutch to have a fair amount of travel from partial to full engagement.

  11. #11
    Crazy SVT Poster Black Cobra's Avatar
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    Re: Clutch adjustment?

    Originally posted by CWCobra
    I can't get used to the '03 clutch. Is there a simple way to adjust the clutch so that it engages/disengages closer to the top, not the floor?
    Thanks,
    CW
    Try the self adjustment like harry suggests. In my case, the self adjuster had ran out of teeth to adjust to. In the photo below, the yellow shaded areas were aligned together. If the self adjustment doesn't work for you, get under there and see where the teeth are aligned. If you still have some teeth left to go to, then you may be able to adjust the teeth with some elbow grease. If there are no more teeth (yellow to yellow in photo), then you have a few options.

    1) Make Ford fix it. At the minimum, they used a cable that was too long. FREE.
    2) Get a Firewall Adjuster. $45
    3) Get a Quadrant and Firewall Adjuster. $90
    4) Get a Quadrant, Firewall Adjuster, and adjustable cable. $115 (combo price)

    Note: If you go with an adjustable system, you have to get a firewall adjuster. The adjustable cable can't be adjusted with the way our shift fork is setup. There is a narrow channel that prevents you from getting a wrench or socket on it.

    Related Links:
    Clutch / Shifter Problems
    Adjustable clutch quadrant installed
    '98 Black Cobra Cpe

    '03 Black Cobra Cpe
    Steeda 3 piece Adj. Clutch Quadrant

  12. #12
    Crazy SVT Poster Black Cobra's Avatar
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    Damn...forgot the photo...

  13. #13
    Crazy SVT Poster Black Cobra's Avatar
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    Another photo of the original.

  14. #14
    Crazy SVT Poster CWCobra's Avatar
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    Tried Harry's fix...life is good. Clutch works fine. Shouda read owner's manual more carefully...or remembered what I read. It's a bitch getting old...can't remember sh!t...

    Later,
    CW

  15. #15
    Crazy SVT Poster HIGH ROLLER's Avatar
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    How often should we do this adjustment on our clutches? I did this adjustment with mine last night because i have been having some issues with my clutch and i could definitely tell a difference after i did it.My car feels like the boost comes on quicker alot sooner and pulls alot harder early in the rpm band most likely because the clutch is grabbing sooner!Thanks for the tip!
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  16. #16
    Crazy SVT Poster RJCobra's Avatar
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    How hard?

    How hard do you have to pull up on the clutch?
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  17. #17
    The Family Dinner Improv Blue03Cobra's Avatar
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    Originally posted by CWCobra
    Tried Harry's fix...life is good. Clutch works fine.
    Jimbo
    Sonic Blue "Terminator"
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  18. #18
    Crazy SVT Poster
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    Originally posted by harry gilbert
    It seems to be a characteristic of the '03 clutch to have a fair amount of travel from partial to full engagement.
    Not on my car! I've never encountered a clutch that goes from fully disengaged to fully engaged in such a short range of movement!

    So what is normal for the '03, very little travel, like mine, or lots of travel like Mr. Gilbert's?
    Maximum Motorsports full-length subframe connectors

  19. #19
    Rookie SVT Poster NXCobra's Avatar
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    I notice about 2" of travel from disengage to full engage. It sometimes makes me worry, but my stock setup on my 96 was just like that and took massive abuse (4K dumps with ET Streets and hitting the 150 shot on engagement) without a single problem.
    Hopefully this one will be the same.

    Originally posted by ZXnVS
    Not on my car! I've never encountered a clutch that goes from fully disengaged to fully engaged in such a short range of movement!

    So what is normal for the '03, very little travel, like mine, or lots of travel like Mr. Gilbert's?

  20. #20
    New SVT Poster
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    Hi Guys!

    I have a 95 and just had a Spec Stage 3 put in. I'm used to the stiffness of the clutch since I was replacing a King Cobra (and a dual friction before that), but now my pedal has about 4 inches of loose play and only about 1 centimeter of engagement, completely at the floor/firewall. I have the full Steeda Adjustable cable & quadrant setup, but have never had to mess with the pedal before. How do I get this thing to have pressure a little farther up? I don't need much engagement, but 1 cm is a little TOO little....I don't think I can stage on that!
    Last edited by Spinderella95; 08-15-2004 at 12:52 AM.
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  21. #21
    SVT God Fuerza's Avatar
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    Originally posted by harry gilbert
    With the car OFF, put it in first gear. Reach down and with your hands, pull UP on the clutch pedal. You may or may not hear a click. With your foor press the clutch down to the floor. You have just exercised the clutch cable adjuster and taken out the clutch cable slack. This works much like an auto brake cable adjuster.
    Learn something new everyday.

  22. #22
    New SVT Poster
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    TTT

  23. #23
    Not to bring this back from the dead, but this thread helped me out. If you are still around Harry Gilbert....Thanks!!!!!!!! I had to manually push the clutch down, then hold the adjuster up with my other hand and let the clutch go. I got like 6 clicks out of mine, and mine even shifts smoother!!! The dealer told me I needed a new clutch!!! Morons. Mine was doing the same as the original posters was, where the clutch was only engaging at the floor. Apparently, my clutch was not engaged all the way at that point, and I thought my tranny/clutch was fried. Not after doing this. Thanks again.

    Brian

  24. #24
    Whistle Box Equipped 4.6 SonicTerminator's Avatar
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    firewall adjuster

    not to keep this old ass thread goin but, my pedal was way way way low even with quadrant adjusted all the way so i dished out the 40 bucks and got a firewall adjuster. works sweet i can adjust it to where i want it. hopefully the clutch is still ok its only got 16 on oit!!

  25. #25
    Crazy SVT Poster
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    BLAST FROM THE PAST!

    The reason I am posting this is I followed this thread, and Cobra Bob's Terminator FAQ #'s 4.9 and 5.10 (Hard to Shift).

    I followed 5.10's advice of :
    "What needs to be done to PROPERLY adjust the cable is you need to move your seat back and steering wheel all the way up. Then you need to push the clutch down with one hand and hold the white adjuster with your other hand in its place, then pull the clutch pedal up. When you do this you are preloading the adjuster and taking up the clutch cable slack by pulling the pedal up. When you do this, you should hear clicks from the pedal preloading on the adjuster plastic teeth. You can do this as much as you want, then your clutch pedal will engage much higher and your clutch will disengage properly to allow you to shift faster."

    I followed it the way I thought I should and couldnt get anything done. I did two things thats not really clear above (at least for me):

    1. Prior to holding/pushing on adjuster I lifted up SLIGHTLY on the clutch pedal. this seemed to release the adjuster.
    2. I then pushed in the clutch pedal and AT THE SAME TIME held the white adjuster.

    SO adding that into the above it would read:

    What needs to be done to PROPERLY adjust the cable is you need to move your seat back and steering wheel all the way up. Then push on/hold the white adjuster, push the clutch up slightly, once adjuster releases slightly, keep holding the adjuster and push the clutch pedal down, release the adjuster and then pull the clutch pedal up. When you do this you are preloading the adjuster and taking up the clutch cable slack by pulling the pedal up. When you do this, you should hear clicks from the pedal preloading on the adjuster plastic teeth. You can do this as much as you want, then your clutch pedal will engage much higher and your clutch will disengage properly to allow you to shift faster.


    Thats what I did. I did it twice. Now the clutch engages about 3.5" from the floor vice the 1" it did before.

    I am not 100% certain I did it right, but it sure feels better. If something is wrong with what I did please feel free to point it out. I would be happy to remove this if what I did would hurt someone elses Cobra.
    Last edited by stvdman; 03-09-2010 at 06:21 PM.
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