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Thread: ARP VS ARP 2000 Rod Bolts
02-04-2008, 01:03 PM #1
ARP VS ARP 2000 Rod Bolts
I was curious to see what the difference is betweeen the "ARP 2000" rod bolts and just the regular "ARP" bolts. I'm rebuilding my motor with 03 Cobra Manley rods and they are just the ARP bolts. My engine builder says they are just fine but I'm still nervous. I told him that I would never go past 700rwhp so I wanted to build it to hold between 600-650rwhp. I really trust this guy but I guess since my car has already blown up once, I'm just nervous.
So what do you guys think?
02-04-2008, 01:42 PM #2
Personally, I can never pay too much for peace of mind. Sure, they're stronger and will give you a little bit more security. Are they essential? Porbably not. But if you've got the cash, it'll always cost less to do it on this end then to start over again if that all blows.Silver 2001 SVT Cobra #456 of 3867 (Teksid BABY!)
MGW Shifter, MGW Knob, Spec Stage 2 Clutch, FRPP 4.10's, F/R: Bilsteins, H&R Race Springs, MM C/C Plates, MM Iso's, Steeda Adj. Clutch Kit, Borla Stinger CB, Painted JLT True CAI, 03 Wheels, F: BFG KDWS/ R: Nitto 555R, F/R: Hawk HPS Pads, NGK TR55's, MMR Rear Seat Delete, RED Corbeau CR-1's
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02-04-2008, 01:50 PM #3
- Join Date
- November 2002
The 8740 bolts are ok, and if you don't plan to rev above like 6800rpm, they will probably last without a problem.
The arp2000 bolts are like $100. Isn't that worth the piece of mind?05 MB S500, 96 911 turbo
02-04-2008, 02:56 PM #4
ARP 2000 and sleep like a baby at night!99 Cobra #76, VT engine, 9cc CP pistons, Manley billet rods, billet oil pump gears, stage 3 ported heads, Ford GT cams, Procharger D1sc @ 19.5# w/ race bypass, Nazman ported intake, head cooling mod, Accufab single blade tb, custom made 4" intake system, 03 cobra tank, twin gt pumps, Kenne Bell bap, stage II fpdm and wiring, 60# mototron injectors, PMAS and SCT tune.
Spec stage 3+ clutch, Tremec tko, Steeda adj cable, quadrant and fire wall adjuster, aluminum drive shaft, 4.10's.
American Racing headers, matching x pipe and Magnaflow cat back.
Bilstein struts/shocks, Steeda bumpsteer kit, Steeda x2 ball joints, QA1 k-member, Energy suspension total polyurethane kit, MM caster/camber plates, full length subframe connectors, cross drilled and slotted rotors, stainless steel brake lines.
2000 Cobra R hood, Saleen side skirts, scoops and spoiler, chrome Cobra R wheels w/ 245/45-17 fronts, 285/40-17 nittos 555 rear.
Alpine cd, stock 460 amps and speakers, JL Audio 1000/1V2 amp, 2 JL W6 12" woofers in custom box, Stinger 1 farad cap.
650 rwhp, 523 lbs Tq @ 7000 rpms with 19.5# boost.
2001 Lightning, mostly stock, not dyno'd yet.
02-04-2008, 05:17 PM #5
Quad always brings so much common sense to the thread's he posts on. I don't know shyte about no rod bolts, but listen to the experienced!2013 Ingot Silver Focus ST - GTX2867R - FREEKTUNE 346/346
02-04-2008, 06:13 PM #6
- Join Date
- November 2002
02-05-2008, 07:35 AM #7
Well, ever since my motor blew up on the dyno, I have been a nervous wreck. I am so afraid of it happening again. So I really don't know when I'm just being safe or if I'm really going overboard. Thanks for the advice, I will order them ASAP. Any suggestions on where to purchase?
02-12-2008, 10:26 PM #8
Dude...get a cobalt...lol[FONT="Comic Sans MS"]
performance: diablo sport chip, mac cai, mac o/h pipe, b&m short throw, bbk full exhuast, bbk c/c plates, eibach pro springs, msd ignite
exterior: mach chin spoiler, mach delete grill, billet fuel door, 275/45/17 in da front. 315/45/18 in da rear!! billet wheels...and of course bad ass sonicblue!!
02-13-2008, 01:26 PM #9