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Thread: The complete "EGR Delete" How To
01-18-2009, 03:40 PM #1
The complete "EGR Delete" How To
After looking at about 10-15 different threads about deleting the EGR and finally figuring everything out, I decided to put together this "EGR Delete" How To so the next guy doesn't have to do as much research.
All this is good for is cleaning up your engine compartment and getting the birds nest off the side of the blower. It will not improve or degrade performance. You will also need to have your EGR turned off in your tune to prevent codes from being thrown.
Step 1: Remove the EGR tube from the EGR Valve to the header, plug the header with a cap and get a block off plate for the blower. Block off plate and header tube cap can be purchased from just about any of the reputable performance parts stores (Lethal Performance, D'Agostino Racing, Tousley Ford etc...)
Here is the header tube cap.
Here is the EGR Block Off Plate.
Step 2: Remove the EGR Valve off the back of the blower, EGR transducer, Boost Dump Valve, and the EGR Vacuum Regulator Solenoid. Also get rid of the black bracket bolted to the side of the blower. You can either tuck the electrical connectors associated with these modules or snip them off and save the connectors if you ever want/need to reinstall everything.
Here is all the stuff you end up with.
Step 3: Now you will reuse and modify the factory vaccum and boost lines you pulled off or you can buy new lines at any parts store along with the rubber fittings. I was able to modify most of my lines.
How to route the new boost and vacuum lines for Whipple:
How to route the new boost and vacuum lines for Eaton:
1) The bottom port, (Boost Port), on the Whipple/Eaton goes to the top port on the Boost Bypass Accuator Valve, the FRPS, and boost gauge. I ran a brass "T" fitting from the lower port, then a line from the top port on the Boost Bypass Accuator Valve to on side of the "T" fitting. Then I used the OEM connection that came of the lower port (rubber fitting with two red vacuum lines) and plugged it into the other side of the "T" fitting. One line goes to the FRPS and the other to the OEM boost line or your aftermarket boost gauge.
2) The bottom port on the Boost Bypass Accuator Valve goes to the air intake so it is filtered. (Some leave it open and vented to the atmosphere.)
3) From the top vacuum port off the back of the Whipple/Eaton, I reduced it to a smaller vacuum line and hooked it up to the OEM "Y" vacuum splitter near the passenger fender. On the passenger side there are two vaccum lines that go to this "Y" fitting. One comes out from behind the passenger side strut tower (charcoal canister) another comes out from the firewall where the bottom heater hose plumbs through and goes to your air conditioning vent vacuum system.
4) The bottom vacuum port with the 90 degree fitting (Evap Emissions Port) goes into the passenger fender to the Evaporative Emissions Control System (EECS). This hose is OEM on Eatons (connected to the plenum on the Eaton) and is reused on Whipple/KB installs. Do not delete. It is PCM controlled and will cause problems if removed.
Info about the EECS: The Evaporative Emissions Control System (EECS) is designed to trap and store fuel vapors that evaportate from the fuel tank, throttle body and intake mainfold during non-operation or idling, store them in the charcoal canister and then route into the combustion chamber to be burned during engine operation. The EECS consists of a charcoal filled canister and the lines connecting the canister to the fuel tank, canister purge regulator valve, ported vacuum and intake manifold vacuum. Fuel vapors are transferred from the fuel tank, throttle body and intake manifold to a canister where they are stored when the engine is not operating. When the engine is running, the fuel vapors are purged from the canister by a purge control solenoid which is PCM controlled and consumed in the normal combustion process.
5) Manifold vent line stays the same and gets hooked up to your PCV valve via your oil seperator (if you have one).
These instructions also satisfy the "Boost Drop Off" issue seen by those of us running over 17lbs of boost. See the following thread:
I hope this helps everyone out.
Last edited by TORQJNKY; 03-26-2010 at 07:11 PM.
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01-18-2009, 05:34 PM #2
Great write-up Craig!- Rob
2010 White Platinum F350 CCSB Lariat Ultimate FX4 6.4L PSD
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01-18-2009, 05:52 PM #3
01-18-2009, 07:26 PM #4
Thanks for this because I'm sick of mine and it's coming off for good.VMP TVS. 2.8 from VMP and a 6lb Combo by Metco - JLT RAI - SCT Big Air 3000 - Dragon T/B - 80lb inj's - Single Modified FPDM - Twin GT pumps -bap- Afco dual pass H/E - LMM Air Bags in rear - High Boost Overlay - Kooks 1 5/8 Lt's - Kooks o/r x-pipe - Borla Catback - Head cooling mod - SCT X-Cal - 5 Gallon IC Resivoir - Fully Built 8.8 Solid Axle - Weld Wheels - 28" Mickey Thompson Stiff Walls - TF Victory Wheels- Posi ported lower intake - Autometer Phantom Boost & Fuel pressure gages-Built 4R70W by FB Performance-Transbrake...
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01-18-2009, 07:32 PM #5
No problem Posi. Let me know if you have any problems. It should be spot on.
01-18-2009, 10:04 PM #6
so about emissions ill definitely fail if this is blocked off right?
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01-18-2009, 10:19 PM #7
01-18-2009, 10:32 PM #8
01-18-2009, 10:32 PM #9
Awesome job Craig!!! Gonna be VERY helpful to a ton of folks..
2007 SHELBY GT500 - WHITE w/ BLUE STRIPES
Posi Ported Eaton w/2.40" Upper Pulley, CJ 65mm TB w/ L&M plenum, JLT 123 CAI, Magnaflow X Pipe/Axle Back, Johnny Lightning tune, 3.73 FR gears, AFCO HE, DSS Aluminum Drive Shaft. (586 RWHP, 569 RWTQ @ 18.5 timing)
2003 DSG COBRA - 10.88 @126.87 w/ 1.62 60' - SOLD......
6 Spd/IRS, Ported Eaton, 2.90/6 lb combo, JLP Tune, LT's, Dragon TB/Penum (529.41 RWHP, 513.76 RWTQ)
MID-ATLANTIC COBRA ASSOCIATION (MACA)
01-18-2009, 10:34 PM #10
01-19-2009, 02:17 AM #11
01-19-2009, 08:32 AM #12
Great job and thanks.I`ve been wanting to do this to clean things up in the engine compartment.
01-19-2009, 08:59 AM #13
Darn, where was this post two weeks ago when I was installing my Whipple on the car...
J/K, Craig - Some great info here.
Now I need to decide if I want to tackle this with the blower mounted on the engine...
Update - I just ordered the EGR delete kit form Lethal and I'm gonna remove that hornet's nest of wires and vacuum lines on the driver's side of the blower...
Last edited by FlaSeaDude; 01-19-2009 at 12:19 PM.FlaSeaDude
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01-19-2009, 09:18 AM #14
Thanks for taking the time to do a write up Craig.
I would have liked to do a similar write up but now I don't have to.
Oh, and I live in Dallas and have passed inspection for the last 2 years without any problem. I just turned it off in my tune and it seems to work just fine because it doesn't throw any codes.
01-24-2009, 06:00 PM #15
Perfect timing and a great write up! Just got my delete kit the other day. Thanks a lot!
01-25-2009, 07:28 AM #16
Did mine yesterday,just got to finish cleaning things up.The hardest part is getting the dang tube out
01-25-2009, 10:08 AM #17
04-15-2009, 01:36 AM #18
Will this same method work on the Eaton?
I know the EGR part will, but what about the vacuum lines or anything else?
04-15-2009, 06:49 AM #19
04-15-2009, 08:58 PM #20
i did this a few weeks ago when i installed my long tubes. this thread was a big help. it really cleans up the blower. thanks.04 Cobra Sold
10.84 at 126 Ported Eaton
11 GT500 sold
11.27 at 122 Fastest stock gt500 with slicks only
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10.60 at 133 upper, lower, long tubes and home ported
10.15 at 133(1.35 60ft) w/n20
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04-17-2009, 03:24 PM #21
I'm working on this right now and, though it might be an error on my part, can only find 2 holes in line on the right side of the blower (when facing it from the rear). On the image above there is the top vacuum port, the evap emissions port an the boost port all in line, but on my stock eaton i only have two in the line, and they are the fittings that the red hoses go into when the setup is stock.
In other words, it seems that i am not locating the evap. emissions port or bottom vacuum port that runs to the passenger fenderwell.
Any tips as to what i'm overlooking?
Last edited by Satyr; 04-17-2009 at 04:43 PM.
04-17-2009, 04:44 PM #22
The boost port shown on the drawing is not on the blower itself, it's on the blower base plate. You can just see it in the photo above that has the red arrow pointing to the EGR Block off plate. You will have to "T" off that port. One line to the top port on the boost bypass and I re-used the OEM port with the two red vacuum lines and went from the other side of the "T" to the FRPS and Boost gauge. Hope that helps.
04-17-2009, 05:05 PM #23
I see what you're saying now, but I still cannot locate the boost port.
I checked on my removed Eaton and still only see the three exits, the lowest of which appears more on the blower base rather than near the rotor area.
Here's what I am looking at: http://img355.imageshack.us/img355/2...werpic7aa1.jpg
Can you point it out on there or at least where it would be relatively to that?
Thanks for your help
04-17-2009, 05:14 PM #24
I remember now. I haven't had an Eaton in a while. The Evap Emissions port on the Eaton is actually on the Plenum. It should be a tube that comes off the side of the Intake Plenum and points toward the passenger side. The top port on your Eaton is the vacuum and the lower is the boost.
04-17-2009, 05:16 PM #25