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  1. #1
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    Motorcraft FL-820s vs Ford Racing CM-6731-FL820 Oil Filters

    I thought you guys would be interested in reading this comparison study because so many people are under the impression that both of these filters are exactly the same just different labels. Look at the difference in total square inches of filtering media surface, Ford Racing is 250 square inches compared to 156 square inches for the Motorcraft, that's 94 square inches less! A larger filtering surface means more oil flow and greater filtering capacity. I get my Ford Racing filters from LateModel Restoration Supply OIL FILTER, FL820 - HIGH PERFORMANCE MISCFORD for $12.99. The Ford Racing filter is built using thicker metal (noticeably heavier) for the can material and the threaded base plate is real beefy with deep high quality machined threads. I was using the K&N HP-2010 until I read this article. The Motorcraft and Ford Racing Filters both utilize a base end mounted bypass valve instead of a top dome mounted bypass valve like the K&N and Purolator models. You can read about the importance of the bypass valve location in the oil filter comparison link I have attached for you below.

    Read this link for the full comparison FL-820S Oil Filter Alternatives


    Ford Racing CM-6731-FL820 Oil Filter
    Measurements

    * Filter Weight - 19.75 oz
    * Can OD - 3.68" / Seam OD - 3.76"
    * Overall Height - 3.99"
    * Can Material - 0.019" thick steel
    * Filter Element OD - 3.44" (at element)
    * Filter Element Height - 2.81"
    * Media - Cellulose - Synthetic Mix? Oiled? (appears orange)
    * Number of pleats - 63 + 1 joint
    * Depth of pleats - 0.73"
    * Media length (unrolled) - 100" (seam crimped)
    * Media width (glue not included) - 2.50"
    * Media thickness - 0.029"
    * Total media surface area - 250 sq. in.
    * Total media volume - 7.25 cu. in.
    * Inner Filter Support Material - 0.010" Thick Perforated Steel
    * Inner Filter Support OD - 1.71"
    * Indentifying marks
    Can - 810050516 / Made in USA
    Bar Code - 7_56122_07567_8
    Label - 6945234
    Base - 22 / MM
    * Gasket Retention - Multiple Crimps
    * Thread - M22-1.5
    * Relief Valve Location - base end
    * ADBV Material - Silicon



    Motorcraft FL-820S
    Measurements

    * Filter Weight - 13.1 oz
    * Overall OD - 3.76" @ seam / 3.66 @ can
    * Overall Height - 4.05"
    * Can Material - 0.02" thick steel
    * Filter Element OD - 3.25"
    * Filter Element Height - 2.51"
    * Media - Cellulose (appears pink/orange)
    * Number of pleats - 43 + 1 joint
    * Depth of pleats - 0.68"
    * Media length (unrolled) - 65.5"
    * Media width (glue not included) - 2.375"
    * Media thickness - 0.035"
    * Total media surface area - 156 sq. in.
    * Total media volume - 5.4 cu. in.
    * Inner Filter Support Material - 0.012" Thick Perforated Steel
    * Inner Filter Support OD - 1.68"
    * Indentifying marks
    Can - Made in USA
    ADBV - 6944453 / AAX / 150
    * Gasket Retention - Multiple Crimps
    * Thread - M22-1.5
    * Relief Valve Location - base end
    * ADBV Material - Silicone (orange)



    K&N HP-2010 Filter
    Measurements

    * Filter Weight - 16.8 oz
    * Overall OD - 3.66"
    * Overall Height - 4.09" to top of "nut" / 3.71" to top of can
    * Can Material - 0.02" thick steel
    * Filter Element OD - 3.36"
    * Filter Element Height - 2.24"
    * Media - Synthetic (appears pink/orange)
    * Number of pleats - 55 + 1 joint
    * Depth of pleats - 0.72"
    * Media length (unrolled) - 89.3"
    * Media width (glue not included) - 2.1"
    * Media thickness - 0.030"
    * Total media surface area - 187 sq. in.
    * Total media volume - 5.6 cu. in.
    * Inner Filter Support Material - 0.015" Thick Perforated Steel
    * Inner Filter Support OD - 1.66"
    * Indentifying marks
    Can - 072206C1 / Product of USA
    ADBV - AAX / 77
    Base - ZZ
    * Gasket Retention - Press Fit
    * Thread - M22 -1.5
    * Relief Valve Location - dome end
    * ADBV Material - Silicone (orange)
    * Gasket includes lubricant




    Purolator PureOne PL24651 Oil Filter
    Measurements

    * Filter Weight - 12.6 oz
    * Overall OD - 3.76" @ seam / 3.66 @ can
    * Overall Height - 3.77"
    * Can Material - 0.014" thick steel
    * Filter Element OD - 3.25"
    * Filter Element Height - 2.65"
    * Media - Cellulose (appears pink/orange)
    * Number of pleats - 60 + 1 joint
    * Depth of pleats - 0.68"
    * Media length (unrolled) - 91.5"
    * Media width (glue not included) - 2.56"
    * Media thickness - 0.030"
    * Total media surface area - 234 sq. in.
    * Total media volume - 7.0 cu. in.
    * Inner Filter Support Material - 0.010" Thick Perforated Steel
    * Inner Filter Support OD - 1.72"
    * Indentifying marks
    Can - F07518G2 / Made in USA
    ADBV - 6944453 / AAX / 104
    * Gasket Retention - Multiple Crimps
    * Gasket includes teflon
    * Thread - M22-1.5
    * Relief Valve Location - dome end
    * ADBV Material - Silicone (orange)

  2. #2
    Crazy SVT Poster LEESTOYSTANG's Avatar
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    Good info.. Glad I went with the FRPP...
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  3. #3
    I was one of the folks confusing it with another Ford filter.

    How efficient are they per the ISO standard? I know the PureOne and Amsoil EAO synthetic filters are up there since filtering ability of the media is pretty important not just how much media is in the filter- I think the FRPP is similar in efficiency...up in the high 90% range but can't recall...the FRPP may even be the same as the PureOne filter...again, can't recall.
    Last edited by evasive; 02-23-2009 at 04:00 PM.


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  4. #4
    BEASTLY SHELBY GT500 TVS me32's Avatar
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    for the price difference your still better buying a motorcraft 820S, you could change the filter 3 times for the price of 1 ford racing filter. im not saying the ford racing filter is a bad filter, but at 13 bucks, i would rather change the filter at 1500miles and add a 1qt of oil, and change oil and filter at every 3k.

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  5. #5
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    I'm still searching for the efficiency ratings on the Motorcraft, Ford Racing and K&N oil filters, please post if anyone is able to find them. Having the ablsolute best oil filter on my High Performance engine has always been a #1 priority of mine and I beleive cheap filters are inexpensive for a reason.

  6. #6
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    Odd when I called FR a year ago they told me it was JUST a thicker casing.

  7. #7
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    If you look at the internal Motorcraft and Ford Racing filter components on the attached website you can see that almost every part is different.

    FL-820S Oil Filter Alternatives

  8. #8
    Addicted to Boost 08geetee500's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by me32 View Post
    for the price difference your still better buying a motorcraft 820S, you could change the filter 3 times for the price of 1 ford racing filter. im not saying the ford racing filter is a bad filter, but at 13 bucks, i would rather change the filter at 1500miles and add a 1qt of oil, and change oil and filter at every 3k.
    Unless you are re-using your old oil, I doubt it is less expensive.
    The oil alone is $8-$10 a quart.
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  9. #9
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    He's saying he'd rather run the 820S and change the filter in between oil changes then pay the extra money to run the FRPP one and only afford to change it at oil changes. It's actually a good idea.



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  10. #10
    Quote Originally Posted by jtn83 View Post
    He's saying he'd rather run the 820S and change the filter in between oil changes then pay the extra money to run the FRPP one and only afford to change it at oil changes. It's actually a good idea.
    It is if they filter the same micron of dirt out. If the FRPP filters more dirt...then not such a great idea.

  11. #11
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    The Ford Racing oil filter seems to be the best I have seen so far. I have read that flow is more important than filtration when it comes to having one or the other. I am still looking for the filtration ratings of these filters compared to others. Anyone have ideas where I can find this info?

  12. #12
    BEASTLY SHELBY GT500 TVS me32's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jtn83 View Post
    He's saying he'd rather run the 820S and change the filter in between oil changes then pay the extra money to run the FRPP one and only afford to change it at oil changes. It's actually a good idea.
    exactly, when your using high quality oil, its not the oil that goes bad 1st its the filter, i highly dought the ford racing oil filter can clean the oil 2x more than the standard motorcraft. maby about 1.5x. i would say for the normal GT500 driver using the ford racing filter, would not benifit you over the motorcraft one(just cost more). now for those who drive theres at the drag strip or road course on a normal bases, i would recommend the ford racing oil filter as you are puting you car through much tougher driving conditions. as for my self i will be doing oil changes around every 2.5K-3k with a motorcrafter 820s, when and if they bring the price down around 8bucks or lower then ill prolly switch to an ford racing oil filter.

  13. #13
    SVT God cobra1718's Avatar
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    the 820S is adequate for normal driving and driving conditions. I just dont see any reason to spend so much on a filter when most all of us are changing oil so regularly (less than 3K) To me its overkill

  14. #14
    Meh, I'll stick with PureOne and Amsoil EAO synthetic filters. I'd use the FRPP in a pinch if I had to though.

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by me32 View Post
    for the price difference your still better buying a motorcraft 820S, you could change the filter 3 times for the price of 1 ford racing filter. im not saying the ford racing filter is a bad filter, but at 13 bucks, i would rather change the filter at 1500miles and add a 1qt of oil, and change oil and filter at every 3k.
    If you have to add a quart of that oil, plus another filter, plus the time and trouble at 1500 miles you are just as well off to buy the best filter you can to start with. My brother and I both have Gt500's and have talked about getting a deal on buying a case and each taking half.

  16. #16
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    $12.99 is not a lot to spend for a good oil filter. Why not try to take care of your engine properly? We are using synthetic oil which is expensive too. I was more interested in seeing if anyone could find the flow/filtration specifications of these filters not whether one filter cost a few dollars more than another. Anyway I will continue using the Ford Racing oil filter.

  17. #17
    BEASTLY SHELBY GT500 TVS me32's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Win View Post
    If you have to add a quart of that oil, plus another filter, plus the time and trouble at 1500 miles you are just as well off to buy the best filter you can to start with. My brother and I both have Gt500's and have talked about getting a deal on buying a case and each taking half.
    i was just giving an example, but like i said to each there own. i plan to use the 820's with Valvoline/Roush full sysn and change every 2.5k-3k

  18. #18
    Banned 01cobravortech's Avatar
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    I'm going to buy one of these Ford Racing filters and do an oil analysis to see if there is any measurable data suggesting it may be doing a better job than the Motorcraft 820s. I could justify spending $12.99 even it was just slightly better than the Motorcraft one. I don't change oil until 5500 - 6000.

  19. #19
    BEASTLY SHELBY GT500 TVS me32's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 01cobravortech View Post
    I'm going to buy one of these Ford Racing filters and do an oil analysis to see if there is any measurable data suggesting it may be doing a better job than the Motorcraft 820s. I could justify spending $12.99 even it was just slightly better than the Motorcraft one. I don't change oil until 5500 - 6000.
    great, i would love to see the compasion with real test

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by 08geetee500 View Post
    Unless you are re-using your old oil, I doubt it is less expensive.
    The oil alone is $8-$10 a quart.
    I would do a better job shopping for oil if I were you!
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  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by fduve View Post
    Why not try to take care of your engine properly? .
    While I don't disagree the ford racing filter may be better, to imply that those using the standard Fl-820s filter are not properly taking care of their engines is asinine. There will always be some "better" product, be it connecting rods, oil filters, or shifters. That said, at a point, it simply becomes overkill.

    There are thousands of hard driven 4v mod motors out there that have been using the standard fl-820s filter for over 100k miles without any oil related problems. While the FRPP filter may be better, there is no evidence that I have seen that indicates that the standard motorcraft filter is not good enough. Most cars do not spend their life at the racetrack bouncing off the rev limiter, and given how frequently most owners change their oil/filter, there is absolutely NOTHING wrong with using the standard product. If you want to use the more expensive one for piece of mind, feel free, but don't chide others for not falling prey to some desire to purchase products that are overkill.
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  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by 01cobravortech View Post
    I'm going to buy one of these Ford Racing filters and do an oil analysis to see if there is any measurable data suggesting it may be doing a better job than the Motorcraft 820s. I could justify spending $12.99 even it was just slightly better than the Motorcraft one. I don't change oil until 5500 - 6000.
    I'll be running GC with FR oil change in about 2000 miles. I have 2 filters at home already. I'm thinking of moving from a 3k change to a 6 or 7k change.
    Last edited by Tarball; 03-09-2009 at 09:44 AM.

  23. #23
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    Using a amsoil EA011 myself.
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  24. #24
    SVT God cobra1718's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Quadcammer View Post
    While I don't disagree the ford racing filter may be better, to imply that those using the standard Fl-820s filter are not properly taking care of their engines is asinine. There will always be some "better" product, be it connecting rods, oil filters, or shifters. That said, at a point, it simply becomes overkill.

    There are thousands of hard driven 4v mod motors out there that have been using the standard fl-820s filter for over 100k miles without any oil related problems. While the FRPP filter may be better, there is no evidence that I have seen that indicates that the standard motorcraft filter is not good enough. Most cars do not spend their life at the racetrack bouncing off the rev limiter, and given how frequently most owners change their oil/filter, there is absolutely NOTHING wrong with using the standard product. If you want to use the more expensive one for piece of mind, feel free, but don't chide others for not falling prey to some desire to purchase products that are overkill.
    well said, see my first post

  25. #25
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    Personally speaking, If I had a hard time rationalizing the recommended maintenance requirements, I could never have rationalized the vehicle purchase! Just my .02

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