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  1. #1

    The Complete How To Cut Your Stock Springs Thread

    First and foremost, the reason numerous Cobra owners cut their springs is because the 03/04 Cobras come stock with Linear Springs(What is the definition of linear spring?). That allows us to shorten them without hurting ride quality so long as you dont cut more than 2-3 coils off, which I dont think would be possible with wheel/suspension clearance.

    There are numerous install threads on how to cut the stock 03/04 springs so I thought Id combine them all here and add my tips. Used various steps from each of these installs to get mine done. Feel free to add your own so we can just make this thread all anyone would ever need to get the job done.

    Check these threads to figure out how much you want to cut:

    http://www.svtperformance.com/forums...04-cobras.html
    (Merged with other Terminator cut springs/lowered pic threads)

    (General lowered Mustangs)
    http://www.svtperformance.com/forums...ings-only.html
    http://www.svtperformance.com/forums...t-springs.html


    Technical/Info/Install threads on cutting springs:

    http://www.svtperformance.com/forums...t-springs.html
    http://www.svtperformance.com/forums...t-springs.html
    http://www.svtperformance.com/forums...k-springs.html
    http://www.svtperformance.com/forums...g-springs.html
    http://www.svtperformance.com/forums...ls-method.html
    http://www.svtperformance.com/forums...ing-coils.html
    http://www.svtperformance.com/forums...ed-my-car.html
    http://www.svtperformance.com/forums...ing-coils.html

    Other sites:

    How To Install An H & R Race Spring 99-04 Cobra
    Kenny Brown Spring Install on 99 Cobra

    Those are all you should need but if not, heres more:

    From my own experience and what Ive seen online, cutting 1/2 a coil will drop your ride height approx .75"-1"; cutting 1 full coil will drop approx 1.75" - 2". Every car is different though, cut less if you aren't sure or maybe remove an iso to get the desired look. You can always cut more off if you want it lower. Something I recommend is measuring your ride height as it sits now from ground to fender on all 4 corners and see if it matches. Mine did not, the passenger side rear sat a little higher, about 1/4". I wound up cutting about 1.5" more coil off that spring to compensate. Now it sits level with the left rear

    Quote Originally Posted by suaveflooder
    We jacked up the whole car and set it on 4 jack stands because you will need a jack to lower the IRS. You will also need a second jack for the rear.

    Front:
    -lift car up
    -put on jackstands
    -pull off rims
    -pull off calipers, and remove rotors
    -remove catback
    -remove crown bolt holding sway bar (need a tie rod puller) so that you can remove the ends from the spindles.
    -Now that the spindles are loose, remove the two bolts holding in the front shock. (when you are removing these bolts, you need a jack under the A-arm compressing the spring a little. You don't need to jack it up much, but keep some pressure on it.
    -lower the jack and move it. Push A-arm down with your hand, being careful because the anti lock brake wire is still hooked up.
    -pull on spring, it'll come out fairly easily. You might have to play with it a bit.

    Back (much easier):
    -While the car is in the air, put a jack under the rubber square that is right under the rear end (not the pumpkin)
    -jack up the IRS just a bit to take the weight off the shock/bolts
    -remove the small bolt that holds the brake like to the chassis.(on spring perch)
    -jack up the A-Arm and remove the 1 bolt that holds on the strut, then you can let it down, and it will go down pretty far, so don't freak out, the spring will still not come out.
    -next, remove the big bolt toward the back of your wheel well(might be shaved if you have wide tires already.) This holds the IRS up. (just so you know, this needs to be torqued to 180ft/lbs when installed, so tight!!)
    -now lower the jack that is under the rear and and the springs should literally fall out after lowering it about 4-6" maybe more

    Install is reverse. When I cut my springs, I just used a cutting wheel and my dremel. Cut them in couple min time slots as the springs will heat up, or have some water to dip them in every so often to keep them cool. Total time should be around 2-3 hours. A helping hand is nice too. We had it done in an hour with power tools.
    My notes:

    Some take their catback off, some are able to take the tip hangers out of the rubber holders and lower the IRS just enough to get the springs off. I took mine off to clean it up anyways. Your call. You will see how much clearance you've got once you start lowering the rear

    Majority will need an alignment after cutting springs. Depends on how much you cut or what bolts/alignment specs you tweaked while doing the removal/install. Get a 4 wheel alignment!




    Fronts:

    With a jack under the A-Arm, I was able to get the nut holding on the sway bar off which is underneath the A-Arm, remove the 2 shock bolts and lower the entire assembly which also popped off the rubber spacer under the A-Arm. Take the ABS line out of the double hook, you might also need to remove it from the hook by the shock for more slack when dropping the A-Arm

    If you need to remove the tie rods here's the tool, Checker should have it. Its the smaller of the two that look like this:



    The Springs were very tight so using your feet and a crow bar you can get it out by pushing down on the Arm with the crow bar underneath the spring pushing up and out

    Pay attention to how the springs sit in the perch prior to removing them. Putting them back in in a different position can affect your ride height.

    I was able to do the fronts by myself in less than 20 mins for both sides




    Rears:

    Very straight forward directions above; I had the springs in less than 15 mins. When doing this you might want to replace the 12mm front IRS bolts with 9/16" Grade 8 Bolts(http://www.svtperformance.com/forums...vs-9-16-a.html) Might as well get AC427Cobras Kit for an even better IRS experience(http://www.svtperformance.com/forums...steer-kit.html)




    Air tool with cutting wheel:



    Back together:




    Stock:

    32 psi front 30 psi rear

    From ground to fender RF/LF - 27.5"
    From ground to fender RR/LR - 28"






    After:

    35psi front 25psi rear

    From ground to fender RF/LF - 26.5"
    From ground to fender RR/LR - 26.75"



    Last edited by Jimmysidecarr; 04-13-2011 at 11:20 AM.
    Cobra Dyno.......Exhaust Compilation.......The Complete How to Cut Your Stock Cobra Springs Thread
    ....................2004 Cobra.................................................. .....................1974 Bronco

  2. #2
    Insane SVT Poster Steve2050's Avatar
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    Great info. I did the rears late last night, doing fronts tonight. Thanks for the write up.
    Whipple 2.3, SCT BA3000, FRPP 60 lb injectors, BF T/B, GT pumps, MGW orange , Mac 3" catback, PPRV delete, Evenflow coolant mod, M/T 315's on chrome 10.5" reps.

  3. #3
    Easy Going MFNG 03cobra#694's Avatar
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    Should help a lot of guy`s out.Good job.

  4. #4
    I'm a Lead Farmer Finaltheorem47's Avatar
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    Absolutely great write up. Thank you very much!

    A little off topic, but how do you decide what pressure's to run in the front and rear tires?



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  5. #5
    Quote Originally Posted by Finaltheorem47 View Post
    Absolutely great write up. Thank you very much!

    A little off topic, but how do you decide what pressure's to run in the front and rear tires?
    My buddy who's been working at Discount Tire for years. He thought the middle of my rear NT05's looked a little worn so he dropped them to 25. Said 95% of tires they put on are 35psi in the fronts so Ill try it for a while and see how the tires look

  6. #6
    :D restlessdreams's Avatar
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    Soo......If I cut 1 in front and 3/4 rear........Will I NEED cc plates to align m wheels properly?
    I want to do this while I have my car up on stands, because it needs a saftey, and the wheels need be aligned for the safety..........

  7. #7
    Ill find out If I need one soon.

  8. #8
    500 hp grocery getter suaveflooder's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by restlessdreams View Post
    Soo......If I cut 1 in front and 3/4 rear........Will I NEED cc plates to align m wheels properly?
    I want to do this while I have my car up on stands, because it needs a saftey, and the wheels need be aligned for the safety..........
    It really depends on the car. I just needed them with my H&R's. The alignment guy said that they would have made his job easier if I had had them and that I was just out of being where I needed to be


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  9. #9
    I needed CC plates

  10. #10
    500 hp grocery getter suaveflooder's Avatar
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    Little bit of an update as I got a cool tip from lauri that I used when putting my race springs in recently: (I'm the one who sent Jefe the quick write-up in his origional post). When removing the tie rod end from the sway bar, turn the crown nut upsidedown and set it flush with the top of the tie rod. Hit it with a hammer. No need for a puller. This will give you a flat surface to hit and it pops out fairly easily.
    Last edited by suaveflooder; 11-13-2009 at 02:34 AM.

  11. #11
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    How long does it take for the springs to settle after cutting them?

  12. #12
    Always buyin cheap tires ShortThrow50's Avatar
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    i wouldnt think it would take anymore than an hour since the springs were previously under load and not new springs

  13. #13
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    well the whole saying that every car isnt equal as far as cutting is true, i cut mine a full cil in the front and it still sit a lil high for my taste....but what do i know i like the slammed look....guess ill be taking a few more inches of coil off next weekend

  14. #14
    Insane SVT Poster 03cobrah's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jefe View Post
    My buddy who's been working at Discount Tire for years. He thought the middle of my rear NT05's looked a little worn so he dropped them to 25. Said 95% of tires they put on are 35psi in the fronts so Ill try it for a while and see how the tires look
    hmm i was just talking to a guy that owned those tires the other day.. he said that at 35 psi they will get worn out in the middle, but i forgot what psi he said to drop them too if my memory serves me correctly it was 15..

  15. #15
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    Are any of you havnt tire rub with turning? I have a little bit on my driver wide only, any way to combat it?

  16. #16
    Quote Originally Posted by 03cobrah View Post
    hmm i was just talking to a guy that owned those tires the other day.. he said that at 35 psi they will get worn out in the middle, but i forgot what psi he said to drop them too if my memory serves me correctly it was 15..
    15psi on a daily driver tire? Seems low...

    Quote Originally Posted by 04svtsnke View Post
    Are any of you havnt tire rub with turning? I have a little bit on my driver wide only, any way to combat it?
    When the wheel is fully turned? Not on the Cobra but had that problem on the last GT, just couldnt turn the wheel lock to lock. Had an alignment done?

  17. #17
    SVT God
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    Not yet, that may fix my lroblem on my cobra....getting one in a few days

  18. #18
    Boost Addict geoffw's Avatar
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    Cutting springs is GHETTO... Take pride in your nice cobra and give it decent aftermarket springs.
    Electric Green 1999 Cobra - 565ci BBC - Powerglide

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  19. #19
    Quote Originally Posted by geoffw View Post
    Cutting springs is GHETTO... Take pride in your nice cobra and give it decent aftermarket springs.
    Cutting LINEAR springs which come stock on the 03/04 Mustang Cobra is not ghetto its a free mod. Do some research in this thread before making comments like that. There are hundreds of Cobras on this site alone who have cut their springs and are happier with them than they would be with aftermarket springs

    No aftermarket spring has made me happy and this is my 5th Mustang

  20. #20
    2012 3.7 & 1986 NOTCH SCT2003's Avatar
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    Nice write up and good info!!!

    Thanks...



    Later...Dave
    *The Ultimate List of "Free" and "Cheap" Mods*: http://www.svtperformance.com/forums...heap-mods.html

    2012 3.7 Mustang, 1986 LX NOTCH(NEW PROJECT), 2007 V8 Sport Trac Limited(MOSTLY STOCK DD)

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  21. #21
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    Remember when you lower, put wider wheels on the back too, it really shows the discrepancy with the fender line!

  22. #22
    Yep I needed spacers bad. Heres how my car sits now:
    [ame="http://www.vimeo.com/7871883"]Weird Noise on Vimeo[/ame]

  23. #23
    2012 3.7 & 1986 NOTCH SCT2003's Avatar
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    Looks good...

    Ok...so how much did you cut (front and back)??? I think I missed it in the text???



    Thanks...

    Dave

  24. #24
    Quote Originally Posted by SCT2003 View Post
    Looks good...

    Ok...so how much did you cut (front and back)??? I think I missed it in the text???



    Thanks...

    Dave
    My bad, I cut 1/2 coil off. I measured the ground to fender clearance prior and noticed the passenger side rear was higher than the driver side so I cut off about 1.5 inches more off the passenger rear spring. Sits level on each side now

  25. #25
    Crazy SVT Poster Golden Stang's Avatar
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    Nice & good job thread.... I chose rate is excellent.

    I'll going to cut my stock springs next week but you cut half.. I'll cut a little more than half of.....


    Thank you
    .

    ((Special thanks to SVT & Mr.john Coletti for built this great Mustang Cobra "Terminator"))


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