This how to was written by DolSVT00 documenting my motor build. Pics were taken by me.

Disclaimer: this isn't intended to teach anybody anything. Don't try to follow these instructions for your own motor. If you do and it blows up, then don't blame me!

Before you start you should make sure all of your clearances are correct by plasti/lead shims and feeler guages, mic's,vernier scale, dial indicators ect. If you dont have that equiptment, I suggest you farm it out to the machine shop that did your ballencing/boreing. I do not intend to add that information or how I checked end play to this thread.

Here's the specs Engine Specs

Things to have checked and or set:
Crank journals
Bearing clearences
End play
Ring gaps
Allignment
Head and block surface RA
Ballence

Also for reference, here are assembly instructions

It's time to start building a motor!


How it looked when we got it all back from the machine shop.










Start inserting the (Ring style locks) retainers into the piston's and mounting rods to the wrist pins. I prefer to install 1 retainer into the piston using the wrist pin as the backing (or a back stop) then removing the wrist pin, inserting the rod, then installing the other ring style retainer in the opposite side. This can also be done with spiral locks (although I hate them and they cut me).


















Start installing the bottom (3rd) ring (set), gap over the holes for the wrist pin. Depending on what ring set you buy this may be different, we had a 3 piece (Sealed Power) set that required a spring type and 2 wire types.



Start installing the bottom wire.


Start installing the top wire.




Now its time to start installing the second (Iron ring) ring. Your manufacturer's instructions will have them labaled, stamped or color coded. The set we used had a certian orientation for the taper and they were color coded. We also had pre filed and numbered each set for each cyl and had them marked for wich cyl and piston that they were to be used on/in.






Now its time to start installing the top (1st) (Iron ring) ring. Your manufacturer's instructions will have them labaled, stamped or color coded. The set we used had a certian orientation for the taper and they were color coded. We also had pre filed and numbered each set for each cyl and had them marked for wich cyl and piston that they were to be used on/in.



This Is what It should look like when your done, repeat for all 8.










Now Its time to start installing the main studs (if your using ARP's like we are). Its best to pre- clean the threads and graciously apply the ARP moly lube.



Notice the location of the odd stud for the oil pick up stand off. (your view is from the front) (timing cover) side of the motor.


We decised to use some high temp VHT black to paint the block before we continued assembly.






Chris thaught it was important to throw up the part number for the bearings since there's been a a few failures with some "other" mod motor bearings out there.











Now its time to start installing the main bearings.












We threw this in here so you could see how 2 of the 3 total main bearings were installed. This is the top set, the bottom (single) bearing can be seen on the main caps above. The thrust bearings must be installed with the oil grooves towards the faces of the crank, and all three are mounted in the rear of the block (flywheel end).




Now I have removed the thrust bearings and am installing the crank. Make sure to graciously apply assembly lube to the bearings before you set the crank.






Now install the front thrust bearing (grooves toward the crank face).




Now install the rear thrust bearing (grooves toward the crank face).








Now install the last thrust bearing (with the rear main cap).


CHris thaught it was also important to show the locations of the factory markings that show direction to the front of the motor and numbering (1-5).






Now its time to install the factory dowel's and side bolts. ARP makes some bolts, but their expensive because their rarely used, we decided to buy new replacements from Ford, as the factory bolts are TTY.






Now its time to install the oil pump, follow the factory sequence the torque spec is 89 inch lbs or 10nm. Note: only install the 3 bolts in the picture, the fourth and final bolt goes through the timing chain tensioner later.


Now its time to install the head studs and the head gaskets, our ARP's came with hex heads on them we graciously applied the ARP moly lube and ran them down hand tight. Note the head gaskets, ours were 4 layer Fel-Pro's, Chris thaught it was important enough to take a picture of the side designations on the head gaskets. You can see them below.








Now its time to install the heads. Note: We didn't take a picture of how we set the crank, but in a nutshell (and you will see it later) we positioned the keyway at 12 oclock (pointing toward the top of the motor) this puts the pistons in positions so as not to have any valve to piston contact as you turn the cams later. Remember, be gracious with the ARP moly lube and apply it to both sides of the washers.





Time to torque the heads down. Note: We taped up any hole that we could have dropped something in at this point.

We torqued the heads using the Ford sequence in each step, first we torqued them to 40 ft lbs, then we torqued them to 80 ft lbs and we finished them off with 110 ft lbs. Note: ARP recommends 90 ft lbs with their moly lube. I don't like it, and when I torqued my heads I went to 110 and Chris and I decided to do his the same way.









Now its time to "Time" the engine, I start off by marking the chains (Yes I know, we had new stuff and the links were colored, but if you didn't have that, this is still how you do it) lay the chains out as pictured below, mark the single link and the two top links with the chains laid out evenly.


Disclaimer: This is how I time a 2v, Ford says you need a special tool that rotates the crank to TDC on #1, it locks the crank into position via a dowel for the timing cover. I don't ever intend on buying it, nor do I ever intend on using it to time a 2v. I'll do it my way.

I leave the crank with the keway vertical up (12 o'clock), by leaving it this way I can rotate the cams however I want without the chance of valve to piston contact. With the crank positioned this way, I can do whatever I want without worrying about the cam lobe rolling over acedentaly rollong over and making valve to piston contact.

First I start by marking all the timing marks with a sharpie,for me its easier on the eye's.....








Then I install the center of the top two links over the timing mark on the driver side bank (LH). Then I slowly rotate the cam to line up the single marked link on the center of the crank timing gear using a socket or a chain wrench (socket and breaker bar for aftermarket cams with a bolt, chain wrench for stock cams or cams that have the gears pressed on). Note: When you install the chain, make sure it is below the dowel for the guide on the driver side (LH) and above the dowel for the passenger side (RH)




Repeat the above step for the passenger (RH) side.


Now, verify that you have it timed corectly.








Now install the guides and spring hardware (AKA hand grenades as Chris calls them) we were lucky enough to get a new set of the old (99-00) style adjusters that had pin's in them (we didn't need a special tool to compress the adjusters).

You can see the pins are in the adjusters in the picture (The things with L and R stamped on them) they need to be removed before you bolt on the timing cover.

Follow the Ford torque specs for all of the guides and adjusters.




I think Chris took these to show how the timing cover bolts/studs go on?

Oh don't forget to install the gear for the Crank position sensor, the flat side faces the chain, the raised side faces the cover so that the optical sensor can pick up the teeth.




I think he took this to show how the seal goes? Remember to use some sealant in the 4 locations where the heads meet the block at the seams on the block itself.

We also had pre-installed the front main seal (I know, I know Ford has a special tool, they can keep it too) A dead blow and a piece of 1/4" steel plate tapped it in nicely for mine and the same for his, you must hit it in the center though.....


Follow the Ford torque specs and sequence to tighten the cover.




Install the Dampner, remember to use some sealant on the keyway.




If you remove the engine mounts from the block the way we have, the motor goes in easily with the oil cooler on...............You can put the engine mounts on after you bolt the block to the transmission by lifting it up and sliding them in then dropping the motor down to insert the bolts.


The stock bolts wouldn't fit the holes for the PS resivoir bracket on the JDM Romeo heads, so we had to find some "race" bolts LOL



You can install the rear main seal coverplate, we pre installed the seal using the same method as the timing cover. Follow the factory torque specs and sequence, there is no gasket, you must use high temp RTV sealant.


Bolt up the oil pan (Follow the factory torque specs and sequence), remove it from the engine stand and bolt up the flywheel...



Chris decided to clean and paint those rusty Ford motor mounts, I still can't figure out why Ford didn't have their supplier paint them?

Like a glove.....................