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Thread: How To Install An SLP Line Lock
03-14-2010, 04:23 PM #1
How To Install An SLP Line Lock
1. Begin by Disconnecting the Ground Cable on your battery, its also easier if you remover the battery completely
2. The SLP instructions dont say this but removing the drivers side Coil Cover Gives you more clearance to do things
3. Remove the Front and Rear Master Cylinder Nuts, The top bolt is a Stud, so a simple open end wrench will do, the bottom nut is more difficult because it has a hex on the back side, I used a Long extension from the front while a friend used a wrench to hold the back Screw from turning, There is also a sensor that must be disconnected from the MC
4. Remove both brake lines from the bottom of the Mater Cylinder, Be cautious as brake fluid will begin to leak, remove the master cylinder and lay it on the ground upside down to prevent fluid from leaking out
5. Next Remove the Rear Brake line from the Proportioning valve, In the picture it is the smaller one closest to the firewall
6. Next Assemble the Line Lock According to this picture using Teflon Sealing tape
7. Next is the difficult Part, Thread the line lock into the Proportioning Valve and and measure where to drill the holes for the Bolts that will hold the solenoid to the Fenderwell, sometimes the line might not line up with the PV so I loosened the bolt holding the PV so I could have some play to line up the PV with the LL. After you Make your marks, Remove your Drivers side Wheel and drill the holes with a 1/4 inch drill bit.
8. Once your Holes are drilled , Mount the LL and line up the New brake line so that it goes where the original line into the MC did.
9. Next Grab the Fused side of the Harness for the LL, remove this bolt on the fuse box and place the ring terminal onto the stud, then retighten up the bolt, attach the other end of the lead to one of the Prongs on the Solenoid
10. Heres a tricky Part, Make a cut into the rubber grommet that allows the wiring harness to pass through the firewall into the drivers compartment, I stuck a long extension through this cut, taped the activation switch wire to it and pulled it back out
11. Once the Wire is pulled, Plug it into the second prong on the actual Line Lock.
Here you can see them both plugged in
12. Next Drill A 3/8 Hole where you would like the activation switch to go, I did mine on the shift bezel next to the lighter port, run the other wire to a ground under the dash (anywhere metal really)
13. Next Re-attach the Brake Lines to the Master Cylinder , Once their both attached, slide the MC back into Place and Tighten it
14. Now Bleed the Brakes, and the Master Cylinder, The master cylinder is extremely important to bleed and is bled the same way the brakes are using the bleeder valves on its sides
15. Once everything is Bled, Put the coil cover back on, The battery back in and hook up the positive then the negative cables.
16. Key the car on, flip the switch, if everything works you should hear a small click from the Line Locks Solenoid
17. Take the car out, make sure the brakes work correctly, the give the Line Lock a Trial by Fire
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03-14-2010, 04:54 PM #2
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great write up. now if only someone could do the same thing for a 96 GT.
03-14-2010, 06:38 PM #3
03-14-2010, 09:04 PM #4
I can give instructions but they would be a lot better with pics, to take pics means that I would have to re do the brakes, which is something I wouldnt want to do, but if someone wants me to give them the best way to bleed, id gladly do it!
03-15-2010, 08:29 AM #5
Very nice job!.
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03-15-2010, 12:35 PM #6
Thanks, As soon as I saw how CRAPPY the slp instructions were, I decided I would do All of us Terminator owners a favor and make some decent ones
I wish I would have had this ready in time for the contest
03-22-2010, 06:02 PM #7
This will work for a Mach 1 correct? If you could do a quick written write-up on bleeding the Master Cylinder and for people who aren't sure of bleeding the regular brakes, a write-up on that as well. Also, when you have the Master Cylinder out and removed from the brake lines, will the brake fluid spill out from the bottom holes? Would you just have to quickly flip it over onto its top to stop it? Should you empty the Master Cylinder while its flipped over that way it doesn't spill out again while your re attaching it to the brake lines? Thanks,
03-22-2010, 06:04 PM #8
Also, I heard of someone running the activation switch to the cruise control "OFF" button. When they hold down the "OFF" button which would engage the line-lock and when released, it would disengage the line lock. Ill have to do more research on that, but I think that would be sweet and stealthy. I cant stand having wires and random things all over the place.
03-22-2010, 06:21 PM #9
Thanks for doing this...I have had horror stories about the difficulty of bleeding the Master Cyliner. I know several Terminator owners that have had to take their car to the dealer to get them to pump all the air out with a machine.
I need to get some motivation and do this mod as I enjoy taking my car to the track and have a little difficulty doing a burnout at times. Maybe the new clutch will help...
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03-23-2010, 06:38 PM #10
05-03-2008 #27 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Troon2004
hey jeostang- I'm just curious how/where you wired the SPDT to isolate the cruise function from the line lock activation function if you used the same button (i.e., the off button) ?
The reason I ask is because I might consider moving my line lock to the steering wheel from where it is now if I had the proper wiring for it and was certain I wasn't going to blow fuses like the other guy did.
I just did this 2 weeks ago, so I think its still fresh in my mind.
I accessed the off button wire behind the passenger side kick panel.
I cut the wire
I ran the button side of the wire and the PCM wire side up into the shifter area
The button wire goes to the center of the SPDT switch (Common)
The PCM goes to one side of the switch.
The other side of the switch I have going to the ground side of a relay
I have a fused 12volt switched going to the other side.
Then the solenoid wires are connected to the normally closed function of the relay.
So when I flip the SPDT switch to line lock, I hit the OFF button it grounds the relay, and throws the relay switch to power the LL.
This separates my PCM from everything else. I guess I could put a fuse on the PCM wire, as another safety in case my switch goes bad, but the switch is only sending ground, not 12V.
So this is what I pulled off of All Ford Mustangs.
Anyone using a linelock kit ? - Page 2 - Ford Mustang Forums
But Im not really sure of the directions. Id need someone to turn it into basic english haha. Like where everything is, more detailed, where to tap into the wires, which wires, ect. If anyone knows more about this and could help out, id be much appreciated.
03-23-2010, 06:45 PM #11
Oh snap actually found it!
[ame=http://www.s197forum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=15358]Wiring diagram for using cruise control button to activate line locks - WWW.S197FORUM.COM[/ame]
03-24-2010, 02:09 AM #12
Okey, fluid will drip out, I suggest you drain it completely anyways since youll have to bleed the master cylinder anyways
just make sure when you re attach the lines again DO NOT pump the brake pedal because youll pump air into the lines
Ive been thinking of making a brake bleeding write up because I think i did it very well because my pedal came out feeling a lot better than before, due to having completely new fluid in the system
bleeding the master cylinder is exactly like the brakes except your bleeding 2 valves at the same time
Ill gladly do a write up! the correct way to bleed brakes if it will really help fellow cobra/mach owners
o and yes , installation is exactly the same for mach 1s also
03-24-2010, 01:38 PM #13
Yea do a write up please
03-24-2010, 05:50 PM #14
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05-02-2010, 03:27 PM #15
- Join Date
- November 2005
- Southaven, MS
Just wanted to bump this thread up as I'm currently using it to install my line lock.
This can easily be done with a strut tower brace (I have the Kenny Brown piece) in place and with the battery still in place. It's a very straight forward install and this thread with clear pictures makes it a breeze."I'm not driving too fast...just flying too low"
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05-02-2010, 03:37 PM #16
Thanks man! hope it helps, i try to do whatever I can for my fellow terminator/mach owners , especially when i saw how terrible the slp instructions are, I said " hell yea ima make a write up so no other DOHC 4.6 owners have to deal with the crappy instructions"
Id love to do a brake bleeding write up because mine came out perfect! Im just too lazy to want to do it all over again because it is quite a time consuming process, when i do my valve covers Ill make one for you guys
05-02-2010, 03:37 PM #17
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05-02-2010, 03:39 PM #18
- Join Date
- November 2005
- Southaven, MS
My master cylinder is completely empty as are all the lines so I'm hoping I don't run into too many issues doing a complete bleeding process. Reason being I pulled off all brake lines for SS lines and they weren't in the order I was expecting..came in several days later. Nothing I could do at that point as the calipers were completely dissassembled for repainting.
I plan on doing a write-up on how to use the traction control button for line lock activation so look for that here in a week or so.
05-02-2010, 11:44 PM #19
Why in the world did you complicate the install and pull the master cylinder? I have done several of these and never pulled the MC off the car.
05-04-2010, 10:10 PM #20
05-16-2010, 09:09 PM #21
i dont know why you wouldnt pull off the master cylinder it was tight enough as it was with it out of the way. i bought the line lock solenoid and a set of lines and fittings from jegs and it cost a third of what everyone else wanted for some pre bent lines. all you really need is a big socket and line bender. I have to thank you for your awesome write up i followed it for the majority of the install. i wired a master switch in my center console then wired a relay to my cruise control off button. it works great and is all hidden,2003 Sonic Blue Cobra
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05-17-2010, 09:21 AM #22
If you pull the master cylinder off, you have to bleed the rear brakes as well. If you just pull the required line off the master cylinder, you just bleed the fronts. And you don't have to worry about getting air pockets in the master cylinder itself.
05-17-2010, 06:29 PM #23
I believe it took me an additional 5 min to bleed the master cylinder and the rear brakes
05-21-2010, 03:29 AM #24
Also, this would be a good time to also just flush out all the old fluid, I flushed the whole system and the brakes felt MUCH better, I like to go the extra mile with my car
05-25-2010, 10:34 PM #25
- Join Date
- November 2005
- Southaven, MS
So...when you install the slp lines should the line going from the solenoid to the master cylinder (the one supplied in the kit) be loose? I tightened the fittings all the way down am and still getting a leak from the fittings both going into and coming out of the solenoid.
The line from the kit can be moved freely both swivel and some in/out movement. I'm just about frustrated with this thing.