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Thread: March fluid damper install
07-11-2010, 09:57 PM #1
March fluid damper install
Has anyone run into any problems installing one of these?
I have the 1158 ( March Performance 1158 - March Performance Fluid Dampened Harmonic Balancers - Overview - SummitRacing.com ) that I tried installing today and could not get it to pilot onto the crank snout no matter what I did. I even tried very lightly tapping it on with a block of wood and a hammer and couldn't get it on more than probably 1/8th of an inch, which wasn't anywhere near close enough to get the crank bolt in and draw it on that way either. And the instructions make it sound like it should just slide right on.
It almost seems like the I.D of the damper is too small for the O.D of the crankshaft.
I've never heard of anyone having any trouble with one of these.
Thoughts / ideas?1996 Crystal White Cobra - Awaiting tuning...
Forged short-block || 03/04 heads || Mach 1 lower intake || E-85 fuel system || Hellion billet ball-bearing 76mm
D&D built T-56 || Mcleoud twin-disk || 31-spline rear end || Maximum Motorsports suspension || Bob Kurgan tune
07-11-2010, 11:01 PM #2
You try putting it in HOT water or in the oven to make the metal expand? This usually helps...wear gloves!
07-11-2010, 11:35 PM #3
Personally not too hot on that idea given that it is a fluid damper. If it were just a regular harmonic balancer, sure, I'd be all for it but I don't know what the heat might do to this thing.
Besides the fact, its brand and should not be this tough to get on nor should it require heating the item. Something isn't right.
07-11-2010, 11:42 PM #4
I am planning on installing this same balancer shortly.
It seems to me that if you can get it on 1/8", that should be enough to get a bolt on to push it on the rest of the way. You might have to go to the hardware store and play with different length bolts however. Typically aftermarket cranks pulleys come with a longer bolt just for this reason so you can use it to get the balancer on. Then once it is on most of the way, remove the longer bolt and install the OEM length bolt. Torque to 100ft-lbs and you are done.
Have you ever replaced a harmonic balancer before? I'm wondering if this is an abnormal problem or if you just need some tips?Stangless
07-11-2010, 11:57 PM #5
The instructions tell you to use the original bolt, but I couldn't even get one thread to engage because the threads in the crank are recessed so deep into the snout and the bolt wasn't long enough.
It took a hammer and a chunk of 2x4 to coax it on that 1/8th of an inch, and even then I was beginning to get uncomfortable with how hard I was having to hit it to get it on that far so I stopped.
I've replaced them before, as has my Father who was also looking at it with me. We both agreed something wasn't right.
I've never had one go on this hard *shrugs*
Last edited by Tabres; 07-11-2010 at 11:59 PM.
07-12-2010, 12:24 AM #6
Okay, usually it will come with a 'starter bolt'
Which is usually a really long bolt with it being threads and then a stud.
Put the washer and starter bolt..and it will be long enough to engage the thread on the crankshaft and then just keep tightening it..as you do that it will slowly start to bring the fluid damper into the crank seal...once you have it in far enough, simply remove the starter bolt and put the actual crank bolt in, and finish tightening it and torquing it down to spec.
Also for side note, the OEM crank bolt are TTY, so if you remove it, you will have to go to the dealer and pick up a replacement [$8 IIRC] or pick up an ARP bolt replacement for it.
It looks similar to this.
Hope that helps.
07-12-2010, 01:15 AM #7
- Join Date
- March 2006
If it is going on that hard I dont know that a starter bolt would help as number one turning that hard may turn the motor over and two you could strip to crank out which would suck balls!
98 Cobra, Built shortblock w/ Manley Rods, Manley Pistons, Custom front inlet B head intake, Turbonetics 78mm turbo, NASVT ported/built heads, Magnaflow Catback, SCT MAF w/ MAFia, 80lbs injectors, sumped tank w/ Weldon external pump, Built T56 w/ MGW, Fidanza flywheel, Spec stage 3+ clutch, Detroit Locker 31 spline diff, Moser Axles, Eibach Sprotlines no isos, Tokico 5 ways, UPR K-member kit, 03 Cobra interior swap w/ in dash DVD monitor and all billet pieces, Saleen Wheels, Kaenen S281 wing, tinted lights and fogs
Coming Soon- Tune done by Bob Kurgan and E85 Conversion
07-12-2010, 01:47 AM #8
I spent forever trying to get mine on, and it wouldn't budge..I took a hammer to it as well..tried freezing or heating it up
taking my time with it..finesse..beating the snot out of it..and it wouldn't go in the slightest bit.
starter bolt = fixed issue.
Just my personal experience anyways.
Honestly, I effed up the first few threads on my crank..but that was because of the pulley remover[I was an idiot with removing the stock pulley and wasn't paying attention..but putting the march fluid damper was fine]...thankfully I have no issues with it now.
07-12-2010, 02:32 AM #9
07-12-2010, 06:59 AM #10
You should be able to "rent" an installation tool at a parts store.. it's basically a long stud that comes with a flanged nut and a bearing to go between the nut and crank.. they even have a nifty hex end so you can hold the stud with a wrench and it won't turn the motor over.. Just make damn sure you line up the keyway before cranking to far..
You can heat the thing up. Think of it this way.. the crank (and balancer) will get up to the temperature of your oil, and Ford put on an oil cooler using the coolant that is around 215-220 degrees already.. your oil gets HOT. Heating it to boiling water isn't going to hurt a thing.1994 Mustang SVT Cobra #1661
Crystal White/Tan Leather
Feb '07 Mustang Enthusiast Magazine Feature
My sig has more mods than your sig..
07-12-2010, 07:51 AM #11
So Chris, you had the same issue with it not wanting to go on at all? Even when persuading it with a hammer?
I completely beleive you guys, but it just seems insane that it should be THAT tight.
I guess I need to get ahold of a starter bolt.
07-12-2010, 09:00 AM #12
Yup..I was at first 'lightly' tapping it in with a hammer...shortly afterwards I was nailing it pretty hard and I couldn't even get it in enough for it to hold itself up..let alone for the crank bolt to reach.
BTW make sure you put a dab of RTV on the keyway before you toss it in.
07-12-2010, 09:34 AM #13
As svtcobra306 said, go rent the tool. Sometimes if you rent the tool and bring it back the same day, they won't even charge you. With the tool, it should go on nice and easy and you won't mess anything up.Modular Performance Built Boss 324 shortblock, C head swap, Naz Ported 01 heads, Custom N/A Comp Cams, Naz ported Shortrunner, 03 cobra 39lb injectors and maf, JLT RAI, ARH SS 1 3/4 & OR X, Bassani Catback, 4.30s, and other supporting mods
07-12-2010, 09:36 AM #14
07-12-2010, 09:40 AM #15
07-12-2010, 03:36 PM #16
- Join Date
- February 2008
- Twin Cities
I had the same problem with my 1158 off of ebay. I think some of the earlier dampers were machined wrong. I wouldn't bother with the installation tool either. I would just return the pulley for a new one. You will possibly ***k something up. I practically destroyed my install tool trying to put the first one on. Had to use a ***kin sledge hammer to knock the pulley back off. The inner Dia. of the two 1158's i have are machined differently.
07-12-2010, 04:49 PM #17
It's brand new, like two months old maybe.
07-12-2010, 05:12 PM #18
Ouch, sounds like a quality control issue with March #1158...
07-12-2010, 07:00 PM #19
07-12-2010, 07:17 PM #20
Well in that case, I hope mine doesn't go flying off on me @ 7k RPMs.
edit: actually I need a new hood anyways, so it might not be too bad then.
07-12-2010, 07:35 PM #21
i used a long starter bolt when i did mine and had no problem at all
1996 Cobra #2759 of 7496 287rwhp/278rwtq - Bolt on
1994 V6 - Bolt On and Split Port Swap - SOLD
1985 GT - H/C/I-3:73-Fresh Paint
2003 Envoy XL SLT
07-12-2010, 07:50 PM #22
- Join Date
- March 2006
Will this fluid damper even be good for a turbo car? Wouldnt it make less rotating load which would in turn put less load on the turbo by revving up quicker? I would think you would want a stock one anyway, just return it save the money and put the stock one back on.