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  1. #1
    Not without incident Tabres's Avatar
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    March fluid damper install

    Has anyone run into any problems installing one of these?

    I have the 1158 ( March Performance 1158 - March Performance Fluid Dampened Harmonic Balancers - Overview - SummitRacing.com ) that I tried installing today and could not get it to pilot onto the crank snout no matter what I did. I even tried very lightly tapping it on with a block of wood and a hammer and couldn't get it on more than probably 1/8th of an inch, which wasn't anywhere near close enough to get the crank bolt in and draw it on that way either. And the instructions make it sound like it should just slide right on.

    It almost seems like the I.D of the damper is too small for the O.D of the crankshaft.

    I've never heard of anyone having any trouble with one of these.

    Thoughts / ideas?
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  2. #2
    snuggle fest, mmmmm! Mystic-SVT's Avatar
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    You try putting it in HOT water or in the oven to make the metal expand? This usually helps...wear gloves!



  3. #3
    Not without incident Tabres's Avatar
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    Personally not too hot on that idea given that it is a fluid damper. If it were just a regular harmonic balancer, sure, I'd be all for it but I don't know what the heat might do to this thing.

    Besides the fact, its brand and should not be this tough to get on nor should it require heating the item. Something isn't right.

  4. #4
    Insane SVT Poster luke87gt's Avatar
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    I am planning on installing this same balancer shortly.

    It seems to me that if you can get it on 1/8", that should be enough to get a bolt on to push it on the rest of the way. You might have to go to the hardware store and play with different length bolts however. Typically aftermarket cranks pulleys come with a longer bolt just for this reason so you can use it to get the balancer on. Then once it is on most of the way, remove the longer bolt and install the OEM length bolt. Torque to 100ft-lbs and you are done.

    Have you ever replaced a harmonic balancer before? I'm wondering if this is an abnormal problem or if you just need some tips?
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  5. #5
    Not without incident Tabres's Avatar
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    The instructions tell you to use the original bolt, but I couldn't even get one thread to engage because the threads in the crank are recessed so deep into the snout and the bolt wasn't long enough.

    It took a hammer and a chunk of 2x4 to coax it on that 1/8th of an inch, and even then I was beginning to get uncomfortable with how hard I was having to hit it to get it on that far so I stopped.

    I've replaced them before, as has my Father who was also looking at it with me. We both agreed something wasn't right.

    I've never had one go on this hard *shrugs*
    Last edited by Tabres; 07-11-2010 at 11:59 PM.

  6. #6
    NA FTW Chris _Scott's Avatar
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    Okay, usually it will come with a 'starter bolt'

    Which is usually a really long bolt with it being threads and then a stud.

    Put the washer and starter bolt..and it will be long enough to engage the thread on the crankshaft and then just keep tightening it..as you do that it will slowly start to bring the fluid damper into the crank seal...once you have it in far enough, simply remove the starter bolt and put the actual crank bolt in, and finish tightening it and torquing it down to spec.

    Also for side note, the OEM crank bolt are TTY, so if you remove it, you will have to go to the dealer and pick up a replacement [$8 IIRC] or pick up an ARP bolt replacement for it.

    It looks similar to this.



    Hope that helps.
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  7. #7
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    If it is going on that hard I dont know that a starter bolt would help as number one turning that hard may turn the motor over and two you could strip to crank out which would suck balls!

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  8. #8
    NA FTW Chris _Scott's Avatar
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    I spent forever trying to get mine on, and it wouldn't budge..I took a hammer to it as well..tried freezing or heating it up

    taking my time with it..finesse..beating the snot out of it..and it wouldn't go in the slightest bit.

    starter bolt = fixed issue.

    Just my personal experience anyways.

    Honestly, I effed up the first few threads on my crank..but that was because of the pulley remover[I was an idiot with removing the stock pulley and wasn't paying attention..but putting the march fluid damper was fine]...thankfully I have no issues with it now.

  9. #9
    4.10's or 4.30's??!! b dub's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chris _Scott View Post
    IHonestly, I effed up the first few threads on my crank..but that was because of the pulley remover[I was an idiot with removing the stock pulley and wasn't paying attention..but putting the march fluid damper was fine]...thankfully I have no issues with it now.
    I did the exact... same... thing. Got careless with the puller, effed the first 3 threads, then beat the new new on.
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  10. #10
    Crazy SVT Poster SVTCobra306's Avatar
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    You should be able to "rent" an installation tool at a parts store.. it's basically a long stud that comes with a flanged nut and a bearing to go between the nut and crank.. they even have a nifty hex end so you can hold the stud with a wrench and it won't turn the motor over.. Just make damn sure you line up the keyway before cranking to far..

    You can heat the thing up. Think of it this way.. the crank (and balancer) will get up to the temperature of your oil, and Ford put on an oil cooler using the coolant that is around 215-220 degrees already.. your oil gets HOT. Heating it to boiling water isn't going to hurt a thing.
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  11. #11
    Not without incident Tabres's Avatar
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    So Chris, you had the same issue with it not wanting to go on at all? Even when persuading it with a hammer?

    I completely beleive you guys, but it just seems insane that it should be THAT tight.

    I guess I need to get ahold of a starter bolt.

  12. #12
    NA FTW Chris _Scott's Avatar
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    Yup..I was at first 'lightly' tapping it in with a hammer...shortly afterwards I was nailing it pretty hard and I couldn't even get it in enough for it to hold itself up..let alone for the crank bolt to reach.

    BTW make sure you put a dab of RTV on the keyway before you toss it in.

  13. #13
    Premium Member coolguy10786's Avatar
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    As svtcobra306 said, go rent the tool. Sometimes if you rent the tool and bring it back the same day, they won't even charge you. With the tool, it should go on nice and easy and you won't mess anything up.
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  14. #14
    Premium Member coolguy10786's Avatar
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    This is the tool you want.

  15. #15
    4.10's or 4.30's??!! b dub's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chris _Scott View Post
    Yup..I was at first 'lightly' tapping it in with a hammer...shortly afterwards I was nailing it pretty hard and I couldn't even get it in enough for it to hold itself up..let alone for the crank bolt to reach.

    BTW make sure you put a dab of RTV on the keyway before you toss it in.
    Did you use a deadblow? I at least did that

  16. #16
    Rookie SVT Poster
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    I had the same problem with my 1158 off of ebay. I think some of the earlier dampers were machined wrong. I wouldn't bother with the installation tool either. I would just return the pulley for a new one. You will possibly ***k something up. I practically destroyed my install tool trying to put the first one on. Had to use a ***kin sledge hammer to knock the pulley back off. The inner Dia. of the two 1158's i have are machined differently.

  17. #17
    Not without incident Tabres's Avatar
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    It's brand new, like two months old maybe.

  18. #18
    Insane SVT Poster luke87gt's Avatar
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    Ouch, sounds like a quality control issue with March #1158...

  19. #19
    SVT God mystical's Avatar
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    You have a high dollar motor, I'd put an Innovators West on there.

    Quote Originally Posted by RubberDown View Post
    I said ok give it a tug, she jerked it as hard as she could

  20. #20
    NA FTW Chris _Scott's Avatar
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    Well in that case, I hope mine doesn't go flying off on me @ 7k RPMs.

    edit: actually I need a new hood anyways, so it might not be too bad then.

  21. #21
    addicted my94pony's Avatar
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    i used a long starter bolt when i did mine and had no problem at all


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  22. #22
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    Will this fluid damper even be good for a turbo car? Wouldnt it make less rotating load which would in turn put less load on the turbo by revving up quicker? I would think you would want a stock one anyway, just return it save the money and put the stock one back on.

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