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05-10-2011, 11:04 AM #1
Some 5-Lug questions. (balljoint spacer?)
Some 5-Lug questions.
I've been reading 5 lug conversion articles for years..
i'm about to do my conversion and i'm just now seeing stuff that i've never seen before..
my donor car is a 95gt, for my 87gt.
a spacer needed for the balljoint?
"Put the new spindle onto the balljoint and donít forget the spacer."
where is the cheapest place to buy this spacer?
or can i swap the whole 95gt control arm? from what i understand,
i can take the 95gt balljoint and press it into the fox control arm..is this correct?
what tool do i need to do this and how hard is it?
i'm also aware of the adapter nut for the brake lines.
do i only need this for the front? i'm using the whole 95gt rear axle so do i still need one for the rear?
will the rear axle bolt right up? do i need the rear control arms off the 95gt?
2004 SVT COBRA 4.6 M6 (570HP):: 67 Mustang 5.0 M5 :: 79 FORMULA 6.6 A4 :: 87 GT 5.0 M5
97 GT 4.6 M5 :: 93 Z28 5.8 A4 :: 99 DODGE RAM 5.9 4X4 9" LIFT
Want To Buy: 99-04 3+ Cowl Hood, 94-98 Roush body kit
05-10-2011, 02:31 PM #2
if your using the whole rear axle assembly it will bolt right up, cause the housings are the same. but the sn95 axles are longer than the foxes. and i never heard of using a spacer for the balljoints.
EaTiN DoDgE AnD ShiTtIn ChEvYs SiNcE 1993
05-10-2011, 02:40 PM #3
The spacer is needed because the stock fox ball joints are longer than the SN95 units and you won't be able to get the spindle on tightly without it. You can just get yourself a stack of grade 8 washers if you want. Personally, i swapped balljoints because I didn't like the idea of using any kind of spacer.
I don't remember having to use any kind of line adapter up front. I just bolted the PBR calipers onto the MM stanless lines that I had already. No problems. The rear is a different story though. The stock fox rear only has a single soft line feeding down to a splitter on the diff housing that then routes two hard lines to the wheel cylinders. I'm pretty sure the SN95 setup had soft lines coming off the calipers and feeding into hard lines in the chassis, not on the axle. So you'll either need to affix the fox rear line setup to the SN95 axle, or adapt the rear brake lines from an SN95 to your fox (what I would recommend).
The axle should bolt right up otherwise, be be aware it will increase your rear track width.-FISHTAIL
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05-10-2011, 04:16 PM #4
how many washers for each side would you say?
05-10-2011, 04:28 PM #5
Depends on how thick they are. I used them temporarily, when I first did my swap, but never drove the car more than into/out of the garage (actually, that's still true unfortunately), and I think i had 4 washers per side. They were 1/8" thick or so if I recall, but it's been a while. When you go to put the SN95 spindle on the need for the washer will become apparent immediately.
05-10-2011, 08:06 PM #6
i finished taking off the spindles from my 95 today.. i took the whole control arm off with the spindle and rotors/brakes still attached. can i use the 95 control arm? if so then i wont have to take the spindle off the 95 control arm..
i gotta jack my 87 up now and remove the rear axle and front spindles. probably start on it tomorrow. should be fun. i like doing stuff like this.
05-11-2011, 08:43 AM #7
No. The 95 Control arm won't fit properly, you need to stick with the stock fox LCA.
05-11-2011, 12:51 PM #8
When I did my 5 lug conversion I went ahead and installed new 94-95 balljoints into my stock 91 control arms. Much better then having to use a "spacer" or washers. Also, the adapter for the front brakes is only needed for the passenger side. The driver side line is the same size as sn-95 cars, passenger side is smaller if I remember correctly. I went ahead and cut off the old fitting on the cars hardline, installed a new fitting to fit the brake hose and flared out the line. Problem solved.
05-12-2011, 10:57 AM #9
Ya i had to use the adapter for the passenger side also. i also needed to put adapters on the back.1989 Notchback Mustang
05-13-2011, 08:35 PM #10
I put a 95 disc brake rearend ( with fox length axles and North racecars brackets) under my 93 coupe and the rear brake line uses a banjo bolt in the line mounted on the floor pan ( used all the 95 hard line that mounts across the top of the rearend one rubber hose in the center) dont forget to gut your proportining valve (and put in in the Ford Racing plug Part Number: M-2450-A ) for the rear and install a adjutable valve inline on the passeger side right by the hood hinge at the line union
and I used Maximum motorsports braided lines
part #MMBK8F for the fronts with 2000 mustang GT or V6 PBR dual piston aluminum calipers.
I also installed a 95 Mustang Gt master cylinder
hope this helps
Check this link http://www.stangnet.com/2002/05/25/f...ug-conversion/
Last edited by RUN4CVR; 05-13-2011 at 08:47 PM.2014 Mustang Gt GHIG Track Pack
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1958 F100 5.4 DOHC carbed
05-14-2011, 11:34 AM #11
I used two 5/8" lock washers Stacked on each side. Worked like a charm2011 Performance White GT/CS
1991 Wild Strawberry notch
AFR 165's, TFS stg 1, GT-40 upper on Explorer lower, etc
05-14-2011, 11:42 PM #12
05-15-2011, 08:57 AM #13
06-06-2011, 04:34 AM #14
06-06-2011, 06:41 PM #15
I have a ball joint install/removal tool but you can rent the tool at auto zone and it works great. Makes it very easy to remove and install the balljoints.
06-11-2011, 09:56 AM #16
i started messing with this conversion today.
not as hard as i thought it would be so far. gotta pause for awhile until i go rent a tie rod puller for the tie rod.
i'm just confused now.. i'm suppose to use a puller to seperate the spindle from the lower control arm right?
would the same tie rod puller work for breaking the spindle lose from the ball joint?
Last edited by QuickV8; 06-11-2011 at 10:52 AM.
06-11-2011, 11:31 AM #17
i have another small problem..
when i took parts off my donor car. for the front, i took a big piece.. shock, rotor brake control arm all in one piece. its gonna be hard breaking the nuts lost on the 2 bolts/nuts that are on top of each other (side by side basically).. i had to use a piece of metal tube to break the fox nuts lose. i'm gonna try to get someone to stand on it while i break them loose. if not then i'll have to bolt them back onto the car and break them lose that way.
Last edited by QuickV8; 06-11-2011 at 11:39 AM.
06-12-2011, 08:26 PM #18
The 5lug swap was easier than I thought it would be..
I finished the passenger front side. driver side will be easy.
for the rear, i'm putting a whole 95gt rear in, i removed it from the 95gt so i already have experience removing them.
I have to order all of the brake adapters now. and get the other parts that go under the hood.
the new spindles have the abs on them, should i hook this up?
threw a extra black 18x9 fr500 rim on the front and it looks good.. doesnt match the paint of my fox (calypso green) but it would look good with another color.
so now i can swap rims on all my stangs... 67, 87, 97, 03 and 04.
04- black fr500s
03 - chrome cobras
67 - black bullits
97- chrome cobras
87 - ..i'll probably buy a drag set up.. weld draglites.. can use them on all of the cars.
06-12-2011, 08:46 PM #19
Remove the abs sensors since fox bodys don't have ABS.
What year car did the spindles come off of? 94-95 is the desired year to get them from since the spindle offset is nearly identical to the fox parts. 96-98 will push the wheels out I believe 8mm and the 99-04 will push them out 4mm more then the 96-98 if I remember correctly.
06-12-2011, 10:04 PM #20
06-17-2011, 10:18 AM #21
QUICKV8 I have done a few conversions and I really like the machined spacer because I usually use the expensive grade 8 gold washer stacked 3 high on each spindle. Did you machine them out or a machine shop etc.
Let me know if you have any questions doing your conversion I will be glad to help you out if I can! I love the 5 lug conversions on Fox bodies. I think FORD should have done 5 lug back in the 80s and never changed over to 4 lug to save money on 4 studs per car but anyways just my 2 centsSig Removed By Admin! Shrink It!
06-24-2011, 12:26 PM #22
if anyone is wondering
i finished the front. it was easy.
the back is easy but i got 2 bolts stuck, not sure what u call it but it ain the control arms. theres 2 hinge-like things that hole the axle to the car. i got the bolts out almost but the bolts shifted down and now are stuck in the hole. basically gotta jack the car up evenly and just keep messing with it.. after that, the new axle will go right in.
i know where to get the front adapter.. do i need one or 2?
and can someone link me to the adapters needed for the rear?
heres my info:
front spindles/brakes/rotors from a 95gt
complete rear axle from a 95gt with the brakes/rotors still attached.
all on a a 87 GT 5.0 5speed. the donor car was a 95gt 5.0 5speed. so will the gear ratio be fine?
06-24-2011, 05:27 PM #23
i got everything lined up, bolted the shocks up. the control arms are lined up and the other arm that goes from the car to the axle. what is that called?
i messed all 4 bolts up when taking them out though. some of the threads on them are flat almost. what do i need to search for when looking on ebay? control arm bolt? whats the name of the other bolt? not sure on the sizes but its 2 5"? bolts then 2 4.5"? bolts. both goto the arms that goto the axle..
or would a place like Ace Hardware have these bolts? is there a certain style to get? heat treated?
06-24-2011, 05:32 PM #24
i think these are them. can i just buy them at Ace? what kind though?