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  1. #1
    Readin posts, rollin eyes joeg215's Avatar
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    How much for a short block rebuild? Other options?

    Pretty much all signs are pointing towards a spun bearing. Knocking sound when revving, metallic mirroring in the oil, oil burning, and low oil level (possible cause and totally my fault, lesson learned ).

    From my research (Im not very mechanically inclined so bear with me), it seems that I need to either replace the short block or rebuild it. Im planning on keeping the power level stock so I assume just a rebuild will be the best option.

    My question : How much am I looking at as far as the short block rebuild goes, parts and labor? Im sure prices vary but a ballpark figure would be great.

    Any other suggestions? Maybe a place near Miami I can take it too? I know these guys specialize in mustangs, obviously Mustang Specialties - Home

    If you need more info just let me know.

    Thanks guys.
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    So you'd kill them?

  2. #2
    99 SVT Cobra
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    I know you're looking for answers here, but why not just give them (Mustang Specialties) a call.
    1999 Ford Mustang SVT Cobra - 4.6L DOHC Modular V8 - 320HP, 317TQ
    Born on 5/27/99, Dearborn Assembly Plant, #3024 of 4040 coupes

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  3. #3
    Readin posts, rollin eyes joeg215's Avatar
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    Well yeah I am, but I posted here just to make sure I'm on the right track and if maybe someone has gone there and has feedback.

  4. #4
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    I just had to replace my engine, i bought a 04 mach 1 motor to replace it with, and i did all the labor myself and it still cost me 3.5k. Given i probably bought some stuff i didn't need but alot of the little things add up quite quickly.

  5. #5
    Readin posts, rollin eyes joeg215's Avatar
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    I was quoted $4500. Is this right?

  6. #6
    AKA 01yellerCobra slo984now's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by joeg215 View Post
    I was quoted $4500. Is this right?
    What does it include?
    323 BB Stroker, 03 Heads, F1A at 19psi, Ford GT Cams, Bassani mids, catted X pipe, Borla Stingers, 80lb injectors, GT Pumps, CPR rails, -8 fuel line, T-56, 3.90's

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by joeg215 View Post
    I was quoted $4500. Is this right?
    That's a good price if tear down, parts,machine work,rebuild and reinstall is included!
    FordSpeed Racing & Machine, Largo Fla.
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  8. #8
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    You might want to look for a used engine from someone reputable and just put that in there, that way you are only looking at R&I.

  9. #9
    AKA 01yellerCobra slo984now's Avatar
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    If you can do your own removal and installation it might be worth looking in to the Aluminator. I think the short block is about $3500 and the complete motor is $6200. More then what you'll be charged, but you get a brand new motor top to bottom with much better internals.

  10. #10
    Crazy SVT Poster ShadesofGrey's Avatar
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    Open up the oil pan first. Look at the crank and see how damaged it is. See what happened and determine if its not too bad then you could buy new bearings, have the crank cleaned up, reinstall and be good to go. Its not the best option but if you just crushed the bearing and didnt spin them, then you may have some hope of a decent fix until you can afford a full rebuild. Now if you really did spin them then yes a rebuild is imminent. But you could have crushed them, so my advice is open the oil pan and take a look.

  11. #11
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    i estimate i built my 2v for $4000 or so, forged pistons/rods bought on here new but much cheaper than what i would have bought from a retailer for. gaskets/bolts/machine work are expensive.
    that being said, if you have to pull the motor and not just replace a bearing, then might as well spend a little money and get it "built"
    2000 BAB GT, Procharged, 4.10's, No Cash Racing built motor, cms stage 2 blower cams, 10 lbs 430 rwhp and 400 rwtq, tuned by lee blankenship

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by ShadesofGrey View Post
    Open up the oil pan first. Look at the crank and see how damaged it is. See what happened and determine if its not too bad then you could buy new bearings, have the crank cleaned up, reinstall and be good to go. Its not the best option but if you just crushed the bearing and didnt spin them, then you may have some hope of a decent fix until you can afford a full rebuild. Now if you really did spin them then yes a rebuild is imminent. But you could have crushed them, so my advice is open the oil pan and take a look.
    Motor still has to be pulled or K-Member dropped to take that oil pan off

  13. #13
    Readin posts, rollin eyes joeg215's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Brutal Metal View Post
    That's a good price if tear down, parts,machine work,rebuild and reinstall is included!
    Yeah it was pretty much everything included as far as I can tell.

    Quote Originally Posted by slo984now View Post
    If you can do your own removal and installation it might be worth looking in to the Aluminator. I think the short block is about $3500 and the complete motor is $6200. More then what you'll be charged, but you get a brand new motor top to bottom with much better internals.
    I understand your point but Its not really in my budget to buy a whole new motor if I dont have to, $6200 would actually be more than I paid for the whole car more than a year ago. The shortblock is definitely an option though.

    Thank you all for your replies, Im taking into consideration what you guys are saying.

    From what Ive been reading, MMR is hit or miss but whats your take on the 600 shortblock that they sell? MMR 4

  14. #14
    AKA 01yellerCobra slo984now's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by joeg215 View Post
    From what Ive been reading, MMR is hit or miss but whats your take on the 600 shortblock that they sell? MMR 4
    I'd stay away from MMR personally.

  15. #15
    Procharged! 97desertCobra's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by joeg215 View Post
    Yeah it was pretty much everything included as far as I can tell.



    I understand your point but Its not really in my budget to buy a whole new motor if I dont have to, $6200 would actually be more than I paid for the whole car more than a year ago. The shortblock is definitely an option though.

    Thank you all for your replies, Im taking into consideration what you guys are saying.

    From what Ive been reading, MMR is hit or miss but whats your take on the 600 shortblock that they sell? MMR 4
    By the time you have somone machine your heads and replace the valve springs and possibly some other valvetrain components based on wear AND possibly new chains and tensioners you are looking at over 6200 with parts and labor + price of short block. The long block option is really the bang for the buck IMO. Just throw on your intake and GO! Only really labor cost would be to pull the existing engine and replace with the Aluminator.

  16. #16
    Crazy SVT Poster ShadesofGrey's Avatar
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    hmm

    Quote Originally Posted by Brutal Metal View Post
    Motor still has to be pulled or K-Member dropped to take that oil pan off
    I know.

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