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01-13-2012, 06:38 PM #1
Bob's Auto Sports' - New Oil/Air Separator "Catch Can"
Today I had a chance to install the new oil catch can from Bob's Auto Sports'
My first impression is excellent. This is well built, not cheap. How Steve accomplished this build without mass production and is able to sell it for only $110.00, I'll never know. Excellent work Steve!
Forgive the pictures, it's a FAIL cell phone camera.
Here is the separator before installation. I have the brushed/natural finished version.
The first step was to loosen the 10mm bolt "gray colored" near the battery that holds an extra ground wire. Allow the ground wire to remain under the separator bracket and use the supplied 8mm bolt "gold colored". Careful not to over tighten. Congrats, you now have a spare screw.
Some have thought there would be an issue with oil draining from the bottom. I can assure you that any oil coming out of the bottom drain petcock will not contact the exhaust header/manifold. It will drain onto the unibody frame rail.
Now, remove the OEM PCV tube on the passenger side. You will have to use a razor blade to cut off the factory plastic tube from the end links. Cut off both ends, valve cover and supercharger side. You will need both. The 5/8" hose itself will not tighten well on the supercharger nipple without the OEM end link. EDIT: Another method to remove the factory PCV tube from the fittings is the hot water method. See post #8 of this thread. Thanks Jeff "Da Freak".
You are now ready to install the 5/8" hose. It doesn't look like there is enough hose at first, but that's not the case. I had ~6-8" of hose remaining after the install was complete. The clamps are nice, hold well, and are not the cheap clamps easily found at the parts stores.
Sure, it's not high and tight like other separators, but I choose function over form when it comes to this. Give me better filtration any day.
EDIT: A new 45* fitting cleaned up the installed look.
In the following months, I will be tracking the amount of oil caught in the separator, and how much oil gets by it into the inlet of the supercharger. I did not remember to take a picture of the drain petcock, but it's also high quality. It will be easy to use a Dixie cup below the separator to catch any oil when the petcock is opened.
01-13-2012, 07:05 PM #2
Couldn't you use a straight barb on the bottom fitting and keep the hose more compact? Or would that affect the oil filtration?
Mid Atlantic Cobra Association
01-13-2012, 07:17 PM #3
Thanks for the great review/how-to Troy! Zporta, I tried a straight down there at first but was hard to get the hoses to bend for that, only reason. I can put any size/style fitting in by request though. Ive also had requests for the units tapped for AN fittings and I can do that too. Polished and Black anodized units coming very soon.
01-13-2012, 07:22 PM #4
- Join Date
- December 2010
- Rockland NY
Thanks for sharing im looking to invest in one of these in the future
01-13-2012, 07:27 PM #5
Please post when you get the anodized version complete. I will take one.
01-13-2012, 07:30 PM #6
01-13-2012, 07:51 PM #7
- Join Date
- October 2008
Troy, you need some headers!
01-13-2012, 07:55 PM #8
Nice writeup Troy.
Just and FYI - Instead of using a razor blade to cut off the oem hose from the connectors you can soak (or slowly pour) the hose (at the connector barbs) in near boiling water for about 30 seconds and it will pull right off. Then if you ever wanted to return to stock you could.
I did this on a previous catch can install and it worked great.
01-13-2012, 07:59 PM #9
01-13-2012, 08:06 PM #10
Good work guys............
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01-13-2012, 09:04 PM #11
01-13-2012, 09:16 PM #12
01-13-2012, 09:33 PM #13
So why is this one better than the jlt. The jlt is $10 more, and is easier to install and looks better. Educate me.
01-13-2012, 09:39 PM #14
It has different filtration and collection. I'll let Steve expand further. He designed it and shared the R&D photos early on.
01-13-2012, 09:49 PM #15
01-13-2012, 10:00 PM #16
So just talking about mine, it has a large collection area, so doesnt need to be drained often. When it does you just open a valve, very easy.
The inlet in the bottom forces air through all the media and the contaminated air is not able to travel up to the outlet fitting. From my research this bottom to top method offers the best filtration. Also the entire bottom is filled with media, not just a small element filter, so more to grab oil.
Being remote mounted is also important. The lines are 5/8" ID and this allows the air to slow down by the time it hits the filter so it gets filtered better.
Regarding looks, very subjective. Install time is 20 minutes max for anyone that has ever held a wrench.
Most of the contamination on the gt500s is on pass side. I can make for drivers side though if enough demand.
Other similar remote unit with valve on bottom are over $150 plus shipping and dont filter as good as mine.
I hope i have answered your questions.
Last edited by Steve@BAS; 01-13-2012 at 10:12 PM.
01-13-2012, 10:20 PM #17
Just by studying the photo that troy posted I think you could angle the PVC valve towards the catch can and use a 22.5 that's angled slightly upward and use a straight hose to connect the two
01-13-2012, 10:20 PM #18
I'll probably pick up both sides from you. When will you have black?
01-13-2012, 10:27 PM #19
They are returning to me on Monday the 23rd from the anodizer so I can ship out the following day.
Last edited by Steve@BAS; 01-13-2012 at 10:29 PM.
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01-14-2012, 07:40 AM #25