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  1. #1
    Insane SVT Poster RFM50's Avatar
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    Billet oil pump gears

    Can any body tell me about what to expect in labor to swap out the oil pump gears to a set of billet gears? If I were to pull the pump how hard would it be to swap them out myself? How hard is the pump to pull? I have never had to pull an oil pump out before but I am very mechanically inclined and can do a lot myself.

  2. #2
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    I just had mine done.

    It is a days works, so 7-900
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    Quote Originally Posted by RFM50 View Post
    Can any body tell me about what to expect in labor to swap out the oil pump gears to a set of billet gears? If I were to pull the pump how hard would it be to swap them out myself? How hard is the pump to pull? I have never had to pull an oil pump out before but I am very mechanically inclined and can do a lot myself.
    Everything on the front of the motor needs to come off. The valve covers need to come off. The balancer needs to come off.The front cover needs to come off. The timing chains need to come off.

    Then you will see the oil pump on the crank snout.

    Ford Service Manuals - IN-VEHICLE REPAIR

    Ford Service Manuals - IN-VEHICLE REPAIR

    Ford Service Manuals - IN-VEHICLE REPAIR

    Looks like it's time consuming, but not difficult. It's on my list of things to do.
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  4. #4
    Rookie jymboslice's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RFM50 View Post
    Can any body tell me about what to expect in labor to swap out the oil pump gears to a set of billet gears? If I were to pull the pump how hard would it be to swap them out myself? How hard is the pump to pull? I have never had to pull an oil pump out before but I am very mechanically inclined and can do a lot myself.
    im pretty sure they just slide out of the oil pump once you have it removed. I have changed the oil pump gears (to billet ones) on my 04 awhile back and they werent hard to swap out at all. I dont remember exactly how to swap them out, but it was not difficult.

    You will need to remove the intake, valve covers, accessory drive, dampener, timing cover, cam chains (Make sure you mark their position with a sharpie or paint pen) and then theres the oil pump.

    it's a pretty involved job.
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  5. #5
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    So, to take the OP's question a step further, how much ADDITIONAL work (time and labor) if you are having an SC such as Roush installed anyway? I would think that it would be easier with the front of the car already torn apart, and it would be piece of mind with the blower . . .

  6. #6
    Insane SVT Poster RFM50's Avatar
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    Thanks guys for your responses. It does sound like something I could pull off and might just be something I do as I install my Paxton that I am waiting on. Sorry for the late response, I subscribed to my thread but it never notified me I had responses.
    Last edited by RFM50; 06-06-2012 at 04:26 PM.

  7. #7
    The 5.0 Is Back! REPCobra10's Avatar
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    Do I have to get billet oil pump gears when I get my supercharger, or is it just an advisable thing to do? Will the factory-stock oil pump gears hold up? I don't drive the car everyday, nor do I beat the piss out of it too often.
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  8. #8
    Authorized Vendor Steve@BBR's Avatar
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    A billet gear is a great upgrade once your making high hp. Some have made 900 on a stock gear while others lost it at 500. Mine's a 3v and mine went right after I hit 708rwhp. I swapped to the Triangle Speed Shop billet gear and been great so far. It's better to replace before then after. I was lucky I didn't loose my motor. 2 Nasty Racing did a great job on it when they built it in 2010.

    You will have to remove the front of the motor and loosen up your oil pan to get to the pump itself. Once you remove it, it slides in and out in seconds. Recommend to lube it before re-install though.
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  9. #9
    The 5.0 Is Back! REPCobra10's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Steve@BBR View Post
    A billet gear is a great upgrade once your making high hp. Some have made 900 on a stock gear while others lost it at 500. Mine's a 3v and mine went right after I hit 708rwhp. I swapped to the Triangle Speed Shop billet gear and been great so far. It's better to replace before then after. I was lucky I didn't loose my motor. 2 Nasty Racing did a great job on it when they built it in 2010.

    You will have to remove the front of the motor and loosen up your oil pan to get to the pump itself. Once you remove it, it slides in and out in seconds. Recommend to lube it before re-install though.
    Thanks for the info, Steve!

  10. #10
    Rookie jymboslice's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by REPCobra10 View Post
    Do I have to get billet oil pump gears when I get my supercharger, or is it just an advisable thing to do? Will the factory-stock oil pump gears hold up? I don't drive the car everyday, nor do I beat the piss out of it too often.
    Stock will be fine if you run ~8-10 psi. It's when you run a lot of boost/HP the possibility of the stock oil pump gears failing, increases.

    Mine have been fine. As like Steve said, its better to replace them now then be sorry. If you plan on running a lot of boost then id get the billet gears now.

  11. #11
    The 5.0 Is Back! REPCobra10's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jymboslice View Post
    Stock will be fine if you run ~8-10 psi. It's when you run a lot of boost/HP the possibility of the stock oil pump gears failing, increases.

    Mine have been fine. As like Steve said, its better to replace them now then be sorry. If you plan on running a lot of boost then id get the billet gears now.
    Thanks for your info, as well. I plan to run around 9-10 psi with the Edelbrock E-Force. It's far from a daily driver, so maybe I'll be okay without changing them out?

  12. #12
    Rookie jymboslice's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by REPCobra10 View Post
    Thanks for your info, as well. I plan to run around 9-10 psi with the Edelbrock E-Force. It's far from a daily driver, so maybe I'll be okay without changing them out?
    I think you'll be ok. Kenne bell broke their stock oil pump gears at 15psi? i believe. Don't quote me on that though. It was more than 10 psi in which they broke the stock gears i know that.

  13. #13
    SVT God alex12gt's Avatar
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    Im running a tvs now near 600hp and am not to worried about it but once i go forged ill do it while its out $400 for the set and peace of mind is worth it

  14. #14
    Insane SVT Poster twistedneck's Avatar
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    why is everyone talking about just the billet gears. The 2013 GT500 has a billet oil pump back plate to prevent deformation under heavy oil pressure and loading, cast gears are retained.



    M5lp 1203 19 2013 Ford Shelby GT500 Trinity 5 8 V8 Photo 20

    http://www.mustang50magazine.com/tec.../photo_18.html



    is there no back plate on a coyote oil pump and if so, do we need?
    Last edited by twistedneck; 06-06-2012 at 06:26 PM.

  15. #15
    Insane SVT Poster RFM50's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by twistedneck View Post
    why is everyone talking about just the billet gears. The 2013 GT500 has a billet oil pump back plate to prevent deformation under heavy oil pressure and loading, cast gears are retained.



    M5lp 1203 19 2013 Ford Shelby GT500 Trinity 5 8 V8 Photo 20

    M5lp 1203 17 2013 Ford Shelby GT500 Trinity 5 8 V8 Photo 18



    is there no back plate on a coyote oil pump and if so, do we need?
    Good question! I am interested in knowing the answer to this as well.

  16. #16
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    It's not the horsepower that is being made that causes the gears to fail. It's the rpm's the motor is turning. The oil pump doesn't know if it's in a motor making 375 hp or 750 hp. It does know if the motor is spinning 7500 rpm's. So if your still running the stock rev limiter there shouldn't be a need for the billet gears on a street driven car. BUT if your at the track a lot and are seeing some high rpm's, I'm sure it would be a worthwhile upgrade. My .02

  17. #17
    Insane SVT Poster RFM50's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Turbo900rr View Post
    It's not the horsepower that is being made that causes the gears to fail. It's the rpm's the motor is turning. The oil pump doesn't know if it's in a motor making 375 hp or 750 hp. It does know if the motor is spinning 7500 rpm's. So if your still running the stock rev limiter there shouldn't be a need for the billet gears on a street driven car. BUT if your at the track a lot and are seeing some high rpm's, I'm sure it would be a worthwhile upgrade. My .02
    Ok I get your point with the higher rpm but doesn't it have a lot to do with the sc causing more oil pressure and crankcase pressure? The more hp you produce the more strain it puts on everything.
    Last edited by RFM50; 06-06-2012 at 10:15 PM.

  18. #18
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    There have been numerous oil pump failures on blown 5.0s across multiple forums, but this is the first thread that I've read where it was specifically stated that the risk could be mitigated by keeping it under a certain HP or RPM number. Would be nice to get confirmation of this . . . or at least some anecdotal evidence.

  19. #19
    Fast/Reliable/Cheap pick2 StevenStarke's Avatar
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    It doesn't make sense that it would blow under a power level vs an Rpm. What actually fails, the gears break? And why is oil pressure being jacked up for a blower. Blow by? Then why not run a breather setup off the valve covers? I say RPM, not boost.
    Last edited by StevenStarke; 06-07-2012 at 02:15 PM.
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  20. #20
    Insane SVT Poster RFM50's Avatar
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    This is something I am definitely unsure of and I am sure someone else can answer better then me.

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by Turbo900rr View Post
    It's not the horsepower that is being made that causes the gears to fail. It's the rpm's the motor is turning. The oil pump doesn't know if it's in a motor making 375 hp or 750 hp. It does know if the motor is spinning 7500 rpm's. So if your still running the stock rev limiter there shouldn't be a need for the billet gears on a street driven car. BUT if your at the track a lot and are seeing some high rpm's, I'm sure it would be a worthwhile upgrade. My .02
    This.

    Livernois broke a set of OEM gears on an N/A Coyote engine, in 2010. It's an RPM thing...

  22. #22
    Mr. Freemod truebluedevil02's Avatar
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    its not a HP thing, its all about the RPM, most people that boost there cars also raise the rev limiter to 7300-7500rpm. 800rpm is A LOT, and the factory pieces can only hold on for so long.
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  23. #23
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    Most of the time a oil pump fails, it's from bouncing the rev limiter. L&M prefers to set the limiter out of the way. They rather over spin the motor than hit the limiter and cause an oil pump failure. Search GT500's and oil pump failures, they're all from hitting the limiter. Oil does play a role as well.
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  24. #24
    Insane SVT Poster RFM50's Avatar
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    Thanks for all the helpful info guys. I feel a lot better now about not putting billet gears in right away. I will probably hold off until I step up the intake manifold and boost.

  25. #25
    Insane SVT Poster twistedneck's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bull3441 View Post
    Most of the time a oil pump fails, it's from bouncing the rev limiter. L&M prefers to set the limiter out of the way. They rather over spin the motor than hit the limiter and cause an oil pump failure. Search GT500's and oil pump failures, they're all from hitting the limiter. Oil does play a role as well.
    excellent information i'm not as worried now about taking my stock coyote to 7500 here and there.. no bouncing of the 7600 bama rpm limit

    so does anyone know if they make a billet back plate for it like the gt500? wouldn't it be best to swap both for a pure racing application? maybe the cobra jet doesn't need it but a road race car might (or a nascar type).

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