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  1. #1
    Crazy SVT Poster dynasty_365's Avatar
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    Forged Rods and pistons

    Wondering of anyone here has done forged rods and pistons on there 5.0 yet? I've been looking into them. Wondering what the best brands r and best quality. I notice the ford ones come together with Rods and pistons. All the other brands u have to buy the rods then go buy the pistons

    Just getting ideas and opinions from u more experienced guys on here

    Here's a link to lethals rods Connecting Rods - Engine - 2011-2013 Mustang GT 5.0L
    "The best engine in the world is the vagina, it takes any size piston, its self lubricating, starts with 1 finger, and every 4 weeks does an oil change. It's a pity the ECU is so damn temperamental

  2. #2
    Rookie SVT Poster
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    I have manly forged rods and piston.

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I717 using Tapatalk 2

  3. #3
    Crazy SVT Poster dynasty_365's Avatar
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    How do u like them? What type of forces induction r u using and how much power

  4. #4
    Crazy SVT Poster Bad Intention's Avatar
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    I just did engine swap to a ford racing aluminator. But there are few who went with Boss short block.
    2011 Black 5.0 Auto
    Procharger F1-A
    Aluminator 9.5:1
    SW Long tubes and
    Fore Innovation Return Fuel sys.

  5. #5
    Crazy SVT Poster twistedneck's Avatar
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    The Manley billet pro series I-beam rods have been beat to death in many drag racing and road racing applications and hold up better than any of the budget h-beam (eagle, manley, k-1, etc..). they are more expensive but worth every cent if you want to build it once.

    Manley 5.0L Pro Series Billet I-Beam Connecting Rod w/22mm Pin

    Similar good things have been proven about oliver rods. (same ones used on the 206mph twin turbo power by the hour mustang).

    Oliver 5.0L Coyote Billet I-Beam Conncting Rod Set

    Not sure if the oliver rods are 3/8 or 7/16" rod bolts..
    Last edited by twistedneck; 09-03-2012 at 08:06 PM.

  6. #6
    Crazy SVT Poster BlackMamba3's Avatar
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    Give the guys at MMR a call

  7. #7
    Rookie SVT Poster gimpy2011's Avatar
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    I dropped in an aluminator instead of building up my old motor.
    2011 Kona Blue GT Premium
    "Go fast parts"
    Brembo Brakes, 3.73 gears, Steeda tri-ax, J&M lower control arms, UPR adjustable panhard bar, UPR adjustable upper control arm, Hushpower Catback, Procharger stage 2, 11:1 Aluminator
    "Bling parts"
    GT/CS front fascia, BOSS 302 front splitter, Roush grille, GT500 rear diffuser, 3DCarbon Spoiler, Roush side splitters, NXT hood struts, Roush gauge pod, Eibach Pro Kit

  8. #8
    Crazy SVT Poster dynasty_365's Avatar
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    Not balling enough to drop motors in and get a blower and what not? Just tryna upgrade the rods and pistons and get my blower. Not going crazy high with the numbers. Probably will stay in the 600-650 range. It's my daily driver

  9. #9
    SVT God grnenvy's Avatar
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    Hmm

    No need for pistons or rods then. I have been doing it for almost 2 years now.
    10 psi a good tune and keep a check on octane 93+. Just trying to upgrade?
    U would need to pull the motor to do rods anyway. It's not a small job leave it alone.

    Quote Originally Posted by dynasty_365 View Post
    Not balling enough to drop motors in and get a blower and what not? Just tryna upgrade the rods and pistons and get my blower. Not going crazy high with the numbers. Probably will stay in the 600-650 range. It's my daily driver
    Last edited by grnenvy; 09-04-2012 at 03:13 AM.

  10. #10
    Crazy SVT Poster dynasty_365's Avatar
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    thats interesting. i definately hear u though. ive seen plenty guys running 700+ on these cars with stock motor and tranny and clutch and havent had any problems

  11. #11
    SVT God D.T.R's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by grnenvy View Post
    No need for pistons or rods then. I have been doing it for almost 2 years now.
    10 psi a good tune and keep a check on octane 93+. Just trying to upgrade?
    U would need to pull the motor to do rods anyway. It's not a small job leave it alone.
    how much power you make and how often you beat on the caR?
    9.5:1 Aluminator
    Hellion TT kit
    JPC's triple 465 fuel system
    Supporting mods.
    950whp/825wtq @ 16psi~ (Gulf 116)
    675whp/585wtq @ 9psi~ (pump93)
    10.1@141mph on 11psi & pump gas (old tune)
    Track times on Gulf116 coming soon.

  12. #12
    Mr. Freemod truebluedevil02's Avatar
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    OP, if 600whp is your goal then like stated above, leave it alone. Get a good safe tune and it should be fine. TON's of guys are doing that. These motors can handle 550whp forever and 600-650whp for a good long time epending on how much you beat on it, etc.
    "A warranty is like your virginity. Once its gone, its really not that big of a deal."

    CURRENT VEHICLE:
    Oxford White 2014 A6 GT
    Black Paxton 2200SL, 10psi, JLT intake, Jegs Cat Deletes, Borla S-types, E85, AED tune, Dark stars 17x4.5 front and 15x10 rear with MT 325 DR's : HP...ALL OF IT!

  13. #13
    Crazy SVT Poster dynasty_365's Avatar
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    well i have a new job so im not making a 40 mile drive to work anymore. i only work ten minutes from my house now so wont b much beating. i'ma go vortech or paxton and looking 600-650 rwhp and i'll definately have a safe tune. i was thinking of later down the line doing a small hit of nitrous with the blower to possibly only use at the track but that would b later down the line but doubt i do it. it was just a thought. i know some turbo guys do small hits of nitrous but it was just a thought. nothing set in stone, but the blower is going on for sure very soon

  14. #14
    SVT God D.T.R's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dynasty_365 View Post
    well i have a new job so im not making a 40 mile drive to work anymore. i only work ten minutes from my house now so wont b much beating. i'ma go vortech or paxton and looking 600-650 rwhp and i'll definately have a safe tune. i was thinking of later down the line doing a small hit of nitrous with the blower to possibly only use at the track but that would b later down the line but doubt i do it. it was just a thought. i know some turbo guys do small hits of nitrous but it was just a thought. nothing set in stone, but the blower is going on for sure very soon
    Guys, yes while tuning affects the life spam of the motor, don't think that because the tune is safe you can push 1100whp through a stock motor and be fine. 600whp is a lot more than what the engine was designed for and sooner or later the extra stress to which the motor wasn't designed for will take a toll..
    IMO the key is a good tune and how much yo beat on it. Even if the tune is safe but you're pushing 650whp... i guarantee you that if you beat on it consistently it will break.
    Last edited by D.T.R; 09-04-2012 at 09:59 AM.

  15. #15
    Mr. Freemod truebluedevil02's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dynasty_365 View Post
    well i have a new job so im not making a 40 mile drive to work anymore. i only work ten minutes from my house now so wont b much beating. i'ma go vortech or paxton and looking 600-650 rwhp and i'll definately have a safe tune. i was thinking of later down the line doing a small hit of nitrous with the blower to possibly only use at the track but that would b later down the line but doubt i do it. it was just a thought. i know some turbo guys do small hits of nitrous but it was just a thought. nothing set in stone, but the blower is going on for sure very soon
    you'll be fine with a centri blower. There easier on the rods(the weak link). Ill be going paxton mywelf this winter. IM shooting for about the same as you and my car is a DD as well. Im looking for 580-600whp low boost and 700high boost. I'll be running Methonal though.

  16. #16
    Crazy SVT Poster dynasty_365's Avatar
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    Choosing Paxton because of the bigger head unit?

  17. #17
    Authorized Vendor Aaron@JPCRacing's Avatar
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    This might help some of you out who are looking for a shortblock -

    RGR Built 5.0 "Coyote" Short Block
    [email protected] - Email
    1997 Mustang GT - 5.4 2v (Stock) / S475 / 4R70W - 10.14 @ 134
    Home of the worlds Fastest N/A Coyote
    Home of the worlds Fastest N/A Stock Longblock Coyote
    Home of the worlds Fastest Street Driven 2011-2014 Mustang GT & The Quickest/ Fastest on 275 Drag Radials
    Last in the 8's First in the 7's

  18. #18
    SVT God D.T.R's Avatar
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    ^ That seems a little expensive?

  19. #19
    SVT Crazy Poster
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    Quote Originally Posted by truebluedevil02 View Post
    you'll be fine with a centri blower. There easier on the rods(the weak link). Ill be going paxton mywelf this winter. IM shooting for about the same as you and my car is a DD as well. Im looking for 580-600whp low boost and 700high boost. I'll be running Methonal though.
    Definitely do the 200-shot if you're going meth

  20. #20
    OWNER/ADMIN SID297's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by King 5.0 View Post
    I have manly forged rods and piston.

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I717 using Tapatalk 2
    Manley makes great products.
    The SVTP 2012 GT is For Sale. Click Here for Details.

    Silver 04 Lightning (aka The Defiant) Build date: 04/19/04 Delivered: 5/15/04



    Let's crank up the boost and see what shakes loose.

  21. #21
    Crazy SVT Poster
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    I did the boss rods and pistons. It's a nice setup cause they come assembled and even the rings come on the piston ready to drop in. If you get the crank there's no need to get the assembly balanced. This is a great budget build, the parts are cheap compared to aftermarket and no machine work is nessacery.

    '11 Tangerine Orange 5.0
    Boss shortblock
    Paxton 2200
    6R80 swap

  22. #22
    Crazy SVT Poster dynasty_365's Avatar
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    Stang910 what type of forced induction r u going witj

  23. #23
    Crazy SVT Poster
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    I've got a paxton on mine.

  24. #24
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    !

    Quote Originally Posted by stang910 View Post
    I did the boss rods and pistons. It's a nice setup cause they come assembled and even the rings come on the piston ready to drop in. If you get the crank there's no need to get the assembly balanced. This is a great budget build, the parts are cheap compared to aftermarket and no machine work is nessacery.
    That is a very valid point, you would absolutely not want to toss a set of random pistons and rods in that weren't balanced to the crank. The Boss parts are the only ones that let you do that. My Manley rods and pistons had something like 20,000 pounds of imbalance force at 7000 rpm before the machinist did his magic!

    So did you run a ball hone through the cylinders or just wipe them down and drop the pistons and rods in?

  25. #25
    Authorized Vendor Modular Racing's Avatar
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    The Forged Manley's are by far the best on the market, we offer a great piston and rod combo rated up to 1000 rwhp for only $1149, we have brand new shortblocks with the same internals for just $4199, these are also good up to 1000HP and have a 1 year warranty. For the High HP application (1500+) the Manley Billets are suggested, this is also the rod we use on our new 1800+HP coyote race engine.

    Another option for those looking is our forged rebuild special, this is $1999 and you send in your block and crank and get back a MMR 1000, fully machined, balanced and blueprinted with a 1 year warranty. This includes all machine work to your block, Digital balancing, Manley Forged H beam Rods with ARP hardware and Manley Forged Pistons. Finally they are assembled with Total Seal Rings and Clevite Bearings. We can send our freight company to pick up your engine also so that you dont have to mess with the shipping companies.

    Let us know how we can help!

    www.modularmotorsportsracing.com 1-877-MOD-POWR
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