This is a fairly simple install...total wrench time is about 2-3 hours.
Front Spring / Strut Removal
1. Raise the front of the car by using a hydraulic jack located on the K-Member. I use a hockey puck to prevent marring the finish.
2. Place jack stands on the frame supports located on each side of the car.
3. Place a support to ground under the wheel assembly. This will prevent the assembly from hyper-extending the brake lines after it is un-bolted.
4. Remove the vertical support link using a 18mm open or box end wrench. You must hold the mounting stud at the end of the shaft with a 8mm wrench to prevent the assembly from free turning.
5. Remove the brake line bracket using a 10 mm socket. It is located behind the strut.
6. Remove the plastic brake sensor clip from the strut. This simply pulls out.
7. Remove the (2) main strut attachment bolts using a 18 mm socket.
8. Loosen the (4) strut stud nuts using a 13 mm socket. Remove all but one of the nuts.
9. If you have a helper, have one person hold the strut/spring assembly inside the wheel well while the other person removes the last strut tower nut. If you are solo, you can manage by supporting the assembly inside the wheel well with one hand and with your other hand remove the strut tower nut.
10. Carefully remove the strut assembly.
I recommend taking the coil over assembly to a service shop that has a mounted spring compressor in order to safely remove the spring from the strut. After the stock spring is compressed and removed, simply insert the new spring into the perch. If you choose to keep the stock rubber spring sheath, be sure to install it before you insert the new spring. The assembly retainer cap can be re-installed without using a spring compressor. Be sure to recognize the orientation of the retainer cap, as the “notch” & arrow are to be aligned with the strut mounts.
Front Spring / Strut Installation
1. Carefully insert the coil over assembly into the wheel well and guide it into the strut tower.
2. Once the 4 strut tower studs are through the holes, secure the unit by threading one of the nuts onto a stud. Do not tighten at this point.
3. Align the 2 strut mounts then insert both bolts and tighten.
4. Insert the vertical support link and tighten.
5. Install the brake line bracket & plastic clip.
6. Thread and tighten the 4 strut tower stud nuts.
7. Install the wheels.
8. Slowly release the jack and lower the car. You may need to lower the car onto a small drive off platform in order to completely lower and remove the hydraulic jack.
After installing the new springs, the suspension geometry will need to be brought back into alignment. Be sure to get your front end aligned at a reputable service shop as soon as practical to prevent premature tire wear.
Before:
After:
Rear Spring Removal & Installation
1. Raise the back of the car by using a hydraulic jack located on the center of the rear differential housing. I use a hockey puck to prevent marring.
2. Place 2 jack stands on each side frame rail. Be sure to raise the car sufficiently enough to allow ample rear axle travel. I measured 14” from the jack point to the ground.
3. Maintain support on the rear differential with the jack. Do not transfer all of the weight of the car onto the jack stands at this time.
4. Remove wheels.
5. Remove brake line bracket using a 10 mm socket.
6. Remove sway bar linkage bolts using a 15 mm socket then pull the sway bar downward to allow for easy access to the lower shock bolt.
7. Remove the lower shock bolt using a 15 mm socket.
8. Slowly lower the hydraulic jack and the axle. Allow the axle assembly to travel far enough to safely and easily remove each rear spring.
9. Before removing the springs, note their orientation and duplicate their position with the new springs.
10. Once the new springs are inside of their perches, reverse the removal process to re-assemble.
11. You may need to lower the car onto a small drive off platform in order to completely lower the car and remove the hydraulic jack.
Before:
After:
Complete view:
Front Spring / Strut Removal
1. Raise the front of the car by using a hydraulic jack located on the K-Member. I use a hockey puck to prevent marring the finish.
2. Place jack stands on the frame supports located on each side of the car.
3. Place a support to ground under the wheel assembly. This will prevent the assembly from hyper-extending the brake lines after it is un-bolted.
4. Remove the vertical support link using a 18mm open or box end wrench. You must hold the mounting stud at the end of the shaft with a 8mm wrench to prevent the assembly from free turning.
5. Remove the brake line bracket using a 10 mm socket. It is located behind the strut.
6. Remove the plastic brake sensor clip from the strut. This simply pulls out.
7. Remove the (2) main strut attachment bolts using a 18 mm socket.
8. Loosen the (4) strut stud nuts using a 13 mm socket. Remove all but one of the nuts.
9. If you have a helper, have one person hold the strut/spring assembly inside the wheel well while the other person removes the last strut tower nut. If you are solo, you can manage by supporting the assembly inside the wheel well with one hand and with your other hand remove the strut tower nut.
10. Carefully remove the strut assembly.
I recommend taking the coil over assembly to a service shop that has a mounted spring compressor in order to safely remove the spring from the strut. After the stock spring is compressed and removed, simply insert the new spring into the perch. If you choose to keep the stock rubber spring sheath, be sure to install it before you insert the new spring. The assembly retainer cap can be re-installed without using a spring compressor. Be sure to recognize the orientation of the retainer cap, as the “notch” & arrow are to be aligned with the strut mounts.
Front Spring / Strut Installation
1. Carefully insert the coil over assembly into the wheel well and guide it into the strut tower.
2. Once the 4 strut tower studs are through the holes, secure the unit by threading one of the nuts onto a stud. Do not tighten at this point.
3. Align the 2 strut mounts then insert both bolts and tighten.
4. Insert the vertical support link and tighten.
5. Install the brake line bracket & plastic clip.
6. Thread and tighten the 4 strut tower stud nuts.
7. Install the wheels.
8. Slowly release the jack and lower the car. You may need to lower the car onto a small drive off platform in order to completely lower and remove the hydraulic jack.
After installing the new springs, the suspension geometry will need to be brought back into alignment. Be sure to get your front end aligned at a reputable service shop as soon as practical to prevent premature tire wear.
Before:
After:
Rear Spring Removal & Installation
1. Raise the back of the car by using a hydraulic jack located on the center of the rear differential housing. I use a hockey puck to prevent marring.
2. Place 2 jack stands on each side frame rail. Be sure to raise the car sufficiently enough to allow ample rear axle travel. I measured 14” from the jack point to the ground.
3. Maintain support on the rear differential with the jack. Do not transfer all of the weight of the car onto the jack stands at this time.
4. Remove wheels.
5. Remove brake line bracket using a 10 mm socket.
6. Remove sway bar linkage bolts using a 15 mm socket then pull the sway bar downward to allow for easy access to the lower shock bolt.
7. Remove the lower shock bolt using a 15 mm socket.
8. Slowly lower the hydraulic jack and the axle. Allow the axle assembly to travel far enough to safely and easily remove each rear spring.
9. Before removing the springs, note their orientation and duplicate their position with the new springs.
10. Once the new springs are inside of their perches, reverse the removal process to re-assemble.
11. You may need to lower the car onto a small drive off platform in order to completely lower the car and remove the hydraulic jack.
Before:
After:
Complete view:
Last edited:
