Some on file
Clutch install
1. Disconnect battery
2. Remove shifter lever (or complete shifter)
3. Jack up vehicle and place on four jack stands (as high as possible)
4. Disconnect all four 02 sensors
5. Spray h-pipe bolts with WD40 or whatever, let set for 20 min,
6. Remove h-pipe
7. Remove starter (3 bolts for 96 and up stangs) ½” socket
8. Drain tranny fluid and re-install drain plug when the tranny has been completely drained
9. Remove the drive shaft (use a 12mm 12 point socket to remove the four DS bolts and apply orientation marks so that the DS is re-installed exatly from the same area it was removed.
10. Remove all the electrical wriring from the tranny, (vehicle speed sensor, clutch cable ect...ect..)
11. Remove the two tranny cross member side bolts and let the transmission sit at an angle, this will make it very easy to access the two top tranny bolts. Remove the two top tranny bolts. (long extension needed)
12. Re-install the tranny cross member to its normal location and slide the two cross member bolts on..(do not thread the stationary nuts back on.
13. Remove the rest of the tranny BH bolts.
14. Remove the two cross member side bolts and make sure your in a good position to wrestle the tranny off..let it rest on your chest and roll over.
15. Remove the PP, and FW…Clean the threads on the PP and FW bolts with a wire brush.
16. Remove pilot bearing (slide hammer and pulley kit needed)
17 . Re-install new pilot bearing and add bearing grease to the new pilot bearing
18. Install the freshly turned FW, add red loctite to the FW bolts and snug in a criss-cross pattern, then do a finishing torque of 65 ft-lb.
19. Clean the flywheel surface with Acetone
20. Clean the PP rotor surface with Acetone and place the clutch disk in the proper orientation to the PP rotor..
21. Install the clutch alignment tool then place the PP and clutch diask to the FW, and add red loctite to the PP bolts and install the bolts until the PP and clutch disk has seated to the FW.
22. Loosen the PP bolts ½ turn then torque the PP bolts down first to 15ftlb, then do a finishing torque of 28 ft-lb.
23. Look to make sure the PP, and Clutch disk are concentric…If everything looks good re-install the tranny with a new clutch release fork ($30 from ford) and a new TB and make sure your generous in greasing the prongs on the clutch release fork and the TB bore.
24. Re-install the tranny
25 . Re-install the Drive shaft (use red loctite on DS bolts and torque to 90 ft-lb).
26. Remove the fill plug on the tranny..you cant fill it from the shifter area and fill until tranny fluid seeps from the tranny filler hole.
The rest is pretty much self explanatory, clutch break in is about 300 miles…Good Luck…. DA snake boy!!
http://www.lamustangclub.com/forums/...read.php?t=301
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Car up on four jack stands
Disconnect Battery.
Remove shift lever
Re-move h-pipe and disconnect O2 sensors
Drain tranny fluid (3/8 drive for drain plug)
Remove drive shaft.
Remove Starter, 3 bolts (Have fun, especially if its your first time).
Remove driver side tranny crossmember bolt.
Remove passenger side tranny crossmember bolt and have a friend pull down on the tail shaft of the tranny, this will make the top two bell housing bolts alot more accessible, but you will need a long extension with a universal joint to make it easy to remove them.
Re-install the the tranny crossmember and bolts but dont put the nuts on.
Remove the the rest of the bell-housing bolts.
Re-move the tranny cross-member bolts (again) and wiggle and pull the tranny at the same time. What I found easiest is lay directly under the tranny and wiggle and let it land on my torso and roll the tranny off..make sure you have a friend with you.
Remove the pressure plate.
Remove the the fly wheel (have it turned, but remove the pressure plate alignment pins before sending it to the machine shop, sometimes they loose them).
If bad, remove pilot bearing, if you dont have a slide hammer you can rent one from AutoZone it make removing the pilot bearing a snap.
Clutch install.
Clean everything, flex plate the engine block with simple green.
Install pilot bearing (hammer and a 3/4 inch socket and grease)
Install alignment pins on flywheel and assemble fly wheel to crank hub. Finger on all 8 flywheel bolts and use red-loctite on the threads and tighten in star pattern and torque to 54 to 64 ftlb. Clean the flywheel with acetone.
Clean pressure plate rotor surface with acetone.
Install pressure plate and clutch disk and use the clutch alignment tool and make sure the clutch alignment tool is not at an angle when tightning the pressure plate to the flywheel, also purchase new grade 8 pressure plate bolts, because the old one's will be fatigued due to all the heat and use loc tite on the threads. Tighten all the pressure plate bolts in criss cross pattern until the the pressure plate is seated on the flywheel, then back off the bolts 1/2 turn and torque to 20 to 28 ftlb.
Even though the clutch alignment tool will engage in and out of the clutch disk, prop your head and take a look to make sure the pressure plate, clutch disk and center of the flywheel is concentric.
Install the new throw-out bearing in the clutch release fork and make sure its greased.
Tighten drive shaft bolts to 70 to 94 ftlb and make sure the drive shaft is orientated properly to the pinion hub and the yoke is orientated properly to the tranny tail shaft, there should yellow paint marks but if not mark them before removing the drive shaft.
Have fun putting your tranny back on and try to be somewhat gentle when engaging the tranny input shaft into the clutch splines, try to keep the tranny level as possible..BTW dont forget the flex plate..and put new tranny fluid in the tranny
Linear Mode
