After removing the intake & IMRC's, I noticed on the secondary intake ports of this 110K engine are absolutely caked up with carbon. Not even just the ports, but with a flashlight, I took a look at the valves, and they all had at least an inch of cabon caked up on them. They are a prime example of what you would see on a Shell, Or Z-Max commercial.
Was going to attempt to clean them out with some carb cleaner and a wire brush, but then after searching up on here, some guys even just filled them up with diesel and let it sit there an suck it out with a shop vac later.
Was wondering if anyone has attempted to give them a good cleaning, and what's the most effective method to get them clean. And no, I dont think the famous sea foam everyone praises on here is going to get the job done here. Good stuff, but just wont cut it here.
Ok I did this over the summer. I got a socket put it on the crank bolt and turned it over until the first set of ports was closed. I used berrymans b-12, do not waste time with carb cleaner because the berrymans makes carb cleaner look like water.
Berrymas will save tons of time and will take carbon off without brushing, but I did brush i to speed up the process. I would spray it down, brush it up and then vacume out the puddle of crap, I would repeat as necessary until all 8 were clean. Trust me on the berrymans, I ran out and had to use carb cleaner for the last two ports andthey are not as clean as the other 6.
you must rotate it to make sure all valves are closed for each cylinder. Just spray a tad down the port and if it holds you know you are good. I used a flahslight so I could see when the valve was closed.
____________________________________
Mods-Griggs coil overs 4 corners, griggs caster camber kit, Koni shocks/struts, Griggs tubular k-member/tubular a-arms, 2x4 steel boxed framerails cut and welded into the length of the body, 4 point roll bar, Battle Boxes, Currie johnny joint rear upper control arms, griggs lower control arms, Kenny Brown rear shock tower brace, NA SVT shortrunner intake, IMRC deletes, BBK longtube headers and O/R H-pipe, SLP powerflo catback, FRPP aluminum driveshafts, Centerforce dual friction clutch, C&L cold air intake/K&N, pro 5.0 shifter, rear seat delete, stalker side skirts, boss shinoda wing, rear mounted battery moroso kit, chrome terminator wheels
tuned by Horsepower By Hermann!
Proud Member of MACA (Mid-Atlantic Cobra Association)
Last edited by PSUCOBRA96; 11-02-2009 at 11:13 PM.
Picked up a couple cans of the stuff yesterday. It's not the spray, it's actually a metal can with a cap, looks like its from the 1950's. So how long did you let it sit for in the intake ports, and did you fill them up all the way. I'm just going to clean them up going by the firing order to make sure I dont get any seepage in the combustion chambers.
Ive also heard good things about the stuff on other forums as well. I might even do the primarys while Im at it, and post some before and afters to give people an idea of what the stuff is capable of. Good call on the B-12 !
____________________________________
Current Rides:
2006 Ford Escape Hybrid AWD. 121k miles.
1994 Mustang GT. 347 Stroker, big cam, 4.10's and tons of fun. 375/375.
Past Rides:
2002 Black/Black Z06. Wheels, shifter, Exhaust. 352/348. Sold 10/31/09
1998 Laser Red Kenne Bell Cobra. 360/360. Sold 4/27/09
1997 Black Cobra coupe. 265/265. pretty much stock. Sold 8/14/08
Last edited by Red98CobraStang; 11-08-2009 at 07:01 PM.
berrymans b-12 is sefoam. its just 1/3 of the cost.
.
They are not even close to the same, I only said they work about the same.
Berrymans may be a little better at "Dry" cleaning like this though because it doesn't contain any oils. It is mostly cleaners.
Berrymans= Toluene, Acetone, Hexanes, Methanol,
Toluene and acetone as your main cleaners, Methanol for moisture removal.
Seafoam= Pale Oil, Naphtha, IPA
Naphtha as your main cleaner,
Pale oil for lubrication (Which is why I prefer it as a combustion cleaner in the cylinder as it doesn't dry it out)
Isopropyl alcohol for moisture removal.
Most Carb cleaners heve the same stuff as berrymans but not in the same percentage.
I believe that is why Berrymans is about the "Best" Carb cleaner out there.
I have read all the MSDS sheets on just about all of them.
I use seafoam pretty much only with keeping a few cans of cheap carb cleaner on the shelf for cleaning small stuff.
Picked up a couple cans of the stuff yesterday. It's not the spray, it's actually a metal can with a cap, looks like its from the 1950's. So how long did you let it sit for in the intake ports, and did you fill them up all the way. I'm just going to clean them up going by the firing order to make sure I dont get any seepage in the combustion chambers.
Ive also heard good things about the stuff on other forums as well. I might even do the primarys while Im at it, and post some before and afters to give people an idea of what the stuff is capable of. Good call on the B-12 !
you really should get the spray, the pressure from teh can helps to knock crap off of hard to reach places, and it has a straw that can be attached to the nozzle so you can easily aim and spray from top to bottom to get a good clean. Get the spray cans they work better and will puddle just like the non spray kind giving you the best of both worlds
get one per cylinder, depends how dirty they are, I may have used more, but 1 per cylinder should be enough to clean the primary and secondary ports. Actually get 9 just in case
get one per cylinder, depends how dirty they are, I may have used more, but 1 per cylinder should be enough to clean the primary and secondary ports. Actually get 9 just in case
you may use less, mine was just stubburn and i wanted it perfect since I was spending the time, also use it to clean up the lower intake which is likey covered in oil as well on the runners
I'm new to DOHC motors and am curious what these intake ports and valves look like. Would you be able to take a few quick pics of the intake ports?
When cleaning the secondaries, wouldn't it make sense to do the primaries? Or are the primaries much more difficult to access? <--- This is why I would like to see pictures
Someone will post some pics but there are some on here already.
The reason the secondaries get dirty compared to the primary is because the fuel injectors spray into the primaries. Gas keeps the primary pretty clean. The secondary port doesn't see fuel, only air so they tend to get carbon build up.
Someone will post some pics but there are some on here already.
The reason the secondaries get dirty compared to the primary is because the fuel injectors spray into the primaries. Gas keeps the primary pretty clean. The secondary port doesn't see fuel, only air so they tend to get carbon build up.
Oh okay. If there is any build up on the primaries are they easily accessed like the secondaries?
both primaries and secondaries are easily accessed,
...speaking of the fuel issue I wish someone had created a way to run a secondary injector for the secondary ports, what a waste to leave that power on the table, its been proven to add HP boohooo
haha, you will have to upload it to a site like photo bucket. Once it's there you can either let us view the album by looking for the box at the top left-ish area that says share this album and copy pasting the url here.
Or you could upload it to that site and then
right click the picture
click properties
copy url next to the word "location:"
then come back to this site and once in the reply screen enter the url between these: [img]url goes here[/img]
lol at the nine cans i told psu to get that berrymans way back, but you dont need that much two to three cans of the spray kind should do it.
just do more than one at a time becuase there is more than one cylinder closed at a time look around and find them all and spray the stuff in and let it soak for 45 minutes and then suck it out then mechanically scrap it off the stuff still stuck then a good rinse with the spray and suck it dry. trust me you wont have to worry about forgetting about which one you cleaned to keep up with the firing order
Thanks though 
Linear Mode
