I will try that sir, i didnt even think of using the e-brake to load the driveline.
Thanks.
And I'm not sure I should have a clunk after doing all that work JPIStang. Are you saying you still have a clunk?
I think what JPI is saying is the fact that the car has quite a bit of driveline play when combining, the trans, diff and halfshafts. You are now hearing it more than ever with the solid mounted front diff mounts.
Which would be fine and I have no problem with that as stated before. I just didnt know other people were experiencing a clunk still. If they are I will still check out the driveline as best I can but will not worry about it as much.
Thanks for the responses
____________________________________ Engine: Stiege Stage 5+ w/2.76 Billetflow - Welded Dragon TB/PL - Full Billetflow Idlers and snubber - SCT BA3000 MAF - Siemen Deka 60LB'ers - 40a BAP w/wiring upgrade - Full Bassani Exhaust (mid-lengths, catted x-pipe, and cat back) - RET tune - K&N Intake - LFP Dual pass heat exchanger - LFP Heat Exch Tank - Invictus HCM -Loews Oil Seperator Drivetrain: Full Tilt Boogie full IRS bushing kit - MGW Orange Shifter - Ram Clutch - LPW diff cover - MMR rear seat delete - Fiore Micro Click Clutch & Quadrant - MM 4 point roll cage - MM caster camber plates - MM full length subframe connectors - MM aluminum rack bushings - H&R Race springs - Cobra R front brakes w/ Hawk ceramics F/R pads and drilled F/R brembo rotors - Russell stainless lines - 1" Rear Spacers Everything else: Retrofit HID's - JVC 7" DVD In Dash w/HD Radio - Valentine V1 w/custom bracket - 15lb boost overlay Signed by O. John Coletti himself Register your cobra here!
After some talking to people it seems my clunk is normal with all the stock driveline parts i have.. such as the stock pumpkin, output shaft and aluminum drivershaft. Apparently all I am experiencing is a higher level in sound since everything is solidly mounted now.
I am not worried and the car continues to feel better and better every time I drive it.
I think what JPI is saying is the fact that the car has quite a bit of driveline play when combining, the trans, diff and halfshafts. You are now hearing it more than ever with the solid mounted front diff mounts.
Absolutely. The driveline "clunk" has nothing to do with the bushings, and everything to do with the play in the ring and pinion and halfshafts....though it's a moot point to make since laruei has come to the correct conclusion.
____________________________________ 469rwhp/473rwtq
(Intake/Exhaust/2.76" Upper)
Dyno Tune By R.E.T. 2004 Cobra Convertible
#1389 of 1896
Born 03/01/2004
Just a quick note for anyone considering this upgrade. Do it. This is simply how the IRS should have been shipped from the factory. The suspension response is vastly improved, very predictable.... Launching the car hard on Nitto Drag Radials, it plants the tires and just goes, ZERO wheelhop. I've done some "spirited driving" late last night around a few on-ramps, and the car felt 10x better than ever before.
Previously I had the MM RED urethane kit in the car which was so-so, but it can't even hold a candle to this kit. No extra noise, vibration or anything that I can see.
If you have a Independent rear suspension from a 99,01,03,04 cobra it will work otherwise no. You most likely have a solid rear axle that came with the gt.
Last edited by SilverNotch; 11-02-2009 at 12:20 PM.
I see your products are the best, and the best is what I want for my 03 Cobra, especially when it comes to the IRS. I know you suggest using your full kit, but due to financial contraints I am unable to (can't do the U/L control arm bushings yet). I do want to purchase your UHMW subframe set, along with the front and rear differential support sets in the near future. Can you please tell me what to realistically expect as far as performance results considering my car has 60K with all the stock bushings in place? Thank you in advance. Have a great day.
I see your products are the best, and the best is what I want for my 03 Cobra, especially when it comes to the IRS.
No Doubt, there are NONE finer!
Quote:
Originally Posted by ScottsdaleSnake
I know you suggest using your full kit, but due to financial contraints I am unable to (can't do the U/L control arm bushings yet).
I know times are tough! Trust me. But as you know from reading my FAQ, I don't recommend doing the kit in stages. But having said that, here is what I would do if I were you on a tight budget:
Find some way to come up with an extra $110. Why? Because you're already dropping the entire IRS assembly to install the subframe bushings. Put the UCA bushings in at the same time. The UCA AND the subframe bushings BOTH require the removal of the entire IRS assembly from the chassis. Trust me, you don't want to do this any more times than you absolutely have to.
Quote:
Originally Posted by ScottsdaleSnake
I do want to purchase your UHMW subframe set, along with the front and rear differential support sets in the near future.
The diff bushings are EXTREMELY important for the stabilization of your differential housing. I cannot stress that point enough for people that do not understand the inner workings of the IRS.
Quote:
Originally Posted by ScottsdaleSnake
Can you please tell me what to realistically expect as far as performance results considering my car has 60K with all the stock bushings in place? Thank you in advance. Have a great day.
Doing a partial kit will equate to partial results. If I pour you a half a glass of beer out of the tap, what are you going to have?!?! A half a glass of beer!
LCA's can be done in the car without the removal of the subframe from the chassis. But... you need to understand that the LCA's do approximately 66% of the work of the rear suspension. They are sort of like front brakes! They do WAY more work than the rear brakes! Upper and lower comtrol arms on the IRS are no different.
Quote:
Originally Posted by ScottsdaleSnake
my car has 60K with all the stock bushings in place? Thank you in advance. Have a great day.
One thing you need to keep in mind is the fact that when all of the rubber in your entire IRS assembly was brand new, it was still no damn good! Now that there's 60k on it, it's most likely ready to cause some serious damage.
I'd also like to take this opportunity to inform those people that think poly is the answer to their IRS problems....................NOTHING could be further from the truth. Poly is one of the worst materials for this application. Avoid poly at ALL costs! Hell, put up with that crappy factory rubber before you waste your time and money on that poly crap!
FWIW
____________________________________ Bruce
Got Wheel Hop?
Getting passed on the track by Corvettes?
Unhappy with your IRS?
FIX IT!!
I have to admit, I got tired of sifting through all the pages in this thread. Cutting to the chase, what does ther current complete kit include and cost, delivered? I noticed a price change in the first few pages of the thread about no more free shipping or something. Just trying to get the bottom line, as I'm at the point where I'm ready to upgrade my suspension.
I have to admit, I got tired of sifting through all the pages in this thread. Cutting to the chase, what does ther current complete kit include and cost, delivered? I noticed a price change in the first few pages of the thread about no more free shipping or something. Just trying to get the bottom line, as I'm at the point where I'm ready to upgrade my suspension.
Some of the information early in this thread is quite outdated. See this link for current info:
Thanks. I'll check it out now. I'm not really getting too much wheelhop, so I'm not so much concerned about that as I want to sharpen up the handling of the entire car. I was tossing around the idea of a MM grip box simply because all the parts should work well together. It's really overkill for me though, to be honest. WIth your rear kit, what esle are some good basics? Can I go with H&R race springs, MM CC plates, SFC and be done with it? Or will I need to look into more front end stuff to sharpen up the car.
I really don't like the mushy, sloppy feel of the steering. I used to think it was fine until I aded a Miata to my garage, which feels like a go kart. I'm not trying to make a Cobr ahandle like a Miata...but I'd like t sharpen/stiffen it up a lot more if I could. I autocrossed it for 2 years in stock trim. Now it complains when I take to the turns.
Thanks. I'll check it out now. I'm not really getting too much wheelhop, so I'm not so much concerned about that as I want to sharpen up the handling of the entire car. I was tossing around the idea of a MM grip box simply because all the parts should work well together. It's really overkill for me though, to be honest. WIth your rear kit, what esle are some good basics? Can I go with H&R race springs, MM CC plates, SFC and be done with it? Or will I need to look into more front end stuff to sharpen up the car.
I really don't like the mushy, sloppy feel of the steering. I used to think it was fine until I aded a Miata to my garage, which feels like a go kart. I'm not trying to make a Cobr ahandle like a Miata...but I'd like t sharpen/stiffen it up a lot more if I could. I autocrossed it for 2 years in stock trim. Now it complains when I take to the turns.
Your Cobra handles like it does for several reasons. It's heavy, particularly in the front end, the chassis has quite a bit of flex to it and the suspension is not optimized.
A good FLSFC should be the first mod. The second mod should be upgrading the rear suspension. Why the rear first and not the front? The rear suspension also has power delivery added to the equation.
After that you can move onto the front suspension. You don't have to put up with the compromised suspension your Mustang came from the factory on.
Your Cobra handles like it does for several reasons. It's heavy, particularly in the front end, the chassis has quite a bit of flex to it and the suspension is not optimized.
A good FLSFC should be the first mod. The second mod should be upgrading the rear suspension. Why the rear first and not the front? The rear suspension also has power delivery added to the equation.
After that you can move onto the front suspension. You don't have to put up with the compromised suspension your Mustang came from the factory on.
Thanks again. I'm planning on doing as much at one time as I can, which is why I'm trying to get a good picture in my head of what all I'll need by the time I'm done. Sounds like your kit is the way to go for the rear, although I'll need to add a diff brace since I'm leaking there now. So get me started on the payment/shipping process of your kit, and I'll check over with MM about the FLSFC, springs, and brace. What do you suggest for the front?
I installed the kit on my car couple weeks ago, took it to the strip and cut my best 60' time so far.. car ran straighter on the slicks and felt solid. My car makes 660rwhp and I still feel confident in the stock half shafts, I believe they will see me into the 9's with the 6-speed when I drop the gears..
____________________________________
Awaiting new numbers....
Bruce have you ever considered making bushings for the front suspension?
____________________________________ Born: 9/2/02...# 2512 of 8394 - Wrecked. Looking for another chassis to use it for a donor swap.
Mods:
Magnaflow Catback with Ford Racing M55 Mufflers, MAC Prochamber, Steeda Tri-Ax, K&N FIPK, 2.93" upper pulley, MM FLSFC, MM K-Member Brace, MM Coilovers, ac427cobra's Complete IRS Bushings, Billetflow IRS Brace, 18x9 Front, 18x10.5 Rear AFS factory replicas, McLeod RST TD Clutch, Ram Billet Aluminum Flywheel, LFP DP H/E, ETC.
I installed the kit on my car couple weeks ago, took it to the strip and cut my best 60' time so far.. car ran straighter on the slicks and felt solid. My car makes 660rwhp and I still feel confident in the stock half shafts, I believe they will see me into the 9's with the 6-speed when I drop the gears..
Travis:
That is great to hear. What is the 60' time you're cutting?
That would be so awesome if you can knock off a 9 second 1/4 mile pass with an IRS equipped with our kit and stock halfshafts!
PLEASE keep us posted on that!
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jroc
Bruce have you ever considered making bushings for the front suspension?
Jesse:
Sorry, I have no plans on getting into any front suspension stuff. The only reason I got into the rear suspension stuff was because the only thing available on the market at the time was junk. MM did not have an IRS kit when I designed the first set back in Feb. '04.
For those of you waiting for a Holiday Sale, wait no longer.
For the month of December, we are offering a 5% discount on all IRS bushing kits and parts when paid for with a check or money order and mailed to us with our order form.
The order form can be found at the bottom of this page:
Installed the kit a couple of weeks ago, now she just spins or hooks- no wheel hop at all. FLSFC's in the box ready to be installed when I get back home. thanks Bruce
____________________________________
Cool cars I do or have owned:
1969 Chevy Custom 10- long gone
1968 Firebird- traded
1980 Z28 Camaro-sold
1986 Iroc Z-sold
1986 Monte Carlo SS-sold
1986 Mustang GT-totaled
2003 Mustang GT-traded
1989 LX 5.0-still kicking but undergoing major surgery
2000 Lightning-sold
2003 Cobra-street car
Other crap:
2 1980 Datsun 200sx's- totaled one
2005 Nissan Titan crew-sold
2003 Nissan Frontier crew-traded
1990 Nissan maxima-sold
2005 GMC Z71-still kicking
1983 Toyota 4wd-sold
1985 K5 blazer-sold
1987 Toyota celica-traded
1980 Mazda pick up-sold
1979 Chevy truck-blew up & gave away
1994 Chevy S-10-totaled
1990 Eddie Baurer Full Size Bronco- sold
1992 Nissan Sentra-traded
Register your cobra 
Thank you in advance. Have a great day. 
Trust me. But as you know from reading my FAQ, I don't recommend doing the kit in stages. But having said that, here is what I would do if I were you on a tight budget:
A half a glass of beer! 
Linear Mode
