Which would be fine and I have no problem with that as stated before. I just didnt know other people were experiencing a clunk still. If they are I will still check out the driveline as best I can but will not worry about it as much.
Thanks for the responses
I have far more clunks now than I used to. Thats just sound transfer.
I still have wheel hop though, which sucks. On the street I have it after I hit second gear wheel spin. I was hoping it would be gone, but no dice. I do have nitto DR's though and I have heard that they wheel hop. Not sure how much of that I believe though.
I still have hop too. But its nothing like what it used to be. I have also found out (since my roomate installed this same kit in his 03) that my diff needs a rebuild as there is FAR more play back and forth with mine then his. Mine has 70K miles and his has 20K, go figure.
I say that pinion slop accounts for a lot of the "clunk" i have. Also a few weird pops now and then but i think thats due to missing the iso's on my springs.
Overall though, she feels planted, solid and I am VERY happy with my purchase
____________________________________ Engine: Stiege Stage 5+ w/2.76 Billetflow - Welded Dragon TB/PL - Full Billetflow Idlers and snubber - SCT BA3000 MAF - Siemen Deka 60LB'ers - 40a BAP w/wiring upgrade - Full Bassani Exhaust (mid-lengths, catted x-pipe, and cat back) - RET tune - K&N Intake - LFP Dual pass heat exchanger - LFP Heat Exch Tank - Invictus HCM -Loews Oil Seperator Drivetrain: Full Tilt Boogie full IRS bushing kit - MGW Orange Shifter - Ram Clutch - LPW diff cover - MMR rear seat delete - Fiore Micro Click Clutch & Quadrant - MM 4 point roll cage - MM caster camber plates - MM full length subframe connectors - MM aluminum rack bushings - H&R Race springs - Cobra R front brakes w/ Hawk ceramics F/R pads and drilled F/R brembo rotors - Russell stainless lines - 1" Rear Spacers Everything else: Retrofit HID's - JVC 7" DVD In Dash w/HD Radio - Valentine V1 w/custom bracket - 15lb boost overlay Signed by O. John Coletti himself Register your cobra here!
I've had a completely re-worked IRS (bushed and braced) since 2006 and aside from the annual required lube the rear end is totally quiet and I have no hop.
GT (6-speed and IRS), single turbo, 572HP @ the wheels with gobs of torque. Running stock rear ratio. I don't recall what rubber is on the car right now as it's in storage but I believe Bridgestone (possibly Sumitomo) - I drive through too much crap weather to run Nittos
well.. i will say this. more power makes my wheel hop better. I gained about 65 horse here in the past couple weeks and now they just spin and not hop.. only time they hop is in 2nd gear.
well.. i will say this. more power makes my wheel hop better. I gained about 65 horse here in the past couple weeks and now they just spin and not hop.. only time they hop is in 2nd gear.
I run BFG's KDWs
Ian:
Try reducing your tire pressure 2-3 psi. That should help.
____________________________________ Bruce
Got Wheel Hop?
Getting passed on the track by Corvettes?
Unhappy with your IRS?
FIX IT!!
I am completely new to the topic of changing bushings. It was recommended to me to do so to eliminate wheel hop. However I don't know if I'm ready to dump $600 into it. I am installing an IRS brace as well. Do I need to install a complete set or is there something partial that I can do? I rarely launch the car, but want something to handle if I do. Thanks, kyle
____________________________________ 10th Torch Red Cobra Coupe, Posi Ported Eaton, 2.8 Steeda Blower Pulley, 4lb Lower, JLT RAI, Accufab TB, Fluidyne Heat Exchanger, NGK Plugs, SLP Off Road X, Bassani Back, Steeda Short Throw, Predator Programmer, 60's, 40amp BAP, Mafia, Auto Meter Gauges, BF IRS Brace. New Numbers Coming Soon.
03 Torch Red 10th cobra
99 F150 5.4L
00 Mustang GT 4.6L Auto SOLD
00 Mustang GT 4.6L 5spd SOLD
97 Mustang 3.6L SOLD
93 Dodge Dakota 5.2L SOLD
I am completely new to the topic of changing bushings. It was recommended to me to do so to eliminate wheel hop. However I don't know if I'm ready to dump $600 into it. I am installing an IRS brace as well. Do I need to install a complete set or is there something partial that I can do? I rarely launch the car, but want something to handle if I do. Thanks, kyle
Kyle:
If the IRS is new to you, the best thing to do would be to read the IRS informational article I have authored:
Wow that's hard to read. You guys might consider toning down the background image - here's an example: http://ocnav.com/tmp/FTBR%20Logo-Background.jpg
Added some white space, pulled out some saturation
Wow that's hard to read. You guys might consider toning down the background image - here's an example: http://ocnav.com/tmp/FTBR%20Logo-Background.jpg
Added some white space, pulled out some saturation
Do I actually need to do the a-arm bushings when i am at basically stock power and never take it to the track? I am having problems with my irs shifting but am thinking the diff bushings and subframe bushings will be good enough. Thanks.
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Current Rides:
2005 Ranger Edge 4x4 (4.0L with 4.10's) ----- 2001 Yellow Cobra (30k miles)
Playing: PS1 emu- PC, Forza - Xbox, RE4 (completed)- GC, FF2 - GBA, FFX -PS2, Ninja Gaiden - DS, Final Fantasy - PSP, Rock Band 2- Xbox 360, Zelda - Wii
Do I actually need to do the a-arm bushings when i am at basically stock power and never take it to the track? I am having problems with my irs shifting but am thinking the diff bushings and subframe bushings will be good enough. Thanks.
If you NEVER do a hole shot or drag launch, you don't have any wheel hop of any sorts and are very happy with how your car goes around corners then you don't need a bushing kit.
However I'm having a problem understanding what you mean when you say:
"I am having problems with my irs shifting " Please expand on that.
Your #1 priority should be making sure your differential housing is stabilized and it will never be stabilized in the factory rubber mounts or aftermarket poly.
Your #2 priority should not be subframe bushings, they are of secondary importance for the way you described your situation. The #2 priority should be control arm bushings. But the way you describe your situation even those are not even critical.
The #3 priority is optional (particularly for your application) and I would opt for the bumpsteer and upgraded toe link kit. After you install that kit and have the suspension bumpsteered and then aligned your car will go around corners like a completely different vehicle.
I don't know if you ever driven you car real hard pushing it through a cloverleaf on-ramp or similar situation. When a stock Cobra with an IRS is pushed to the limit, you get an uneasy feeling of not being in control of the car and you're unsure of what the car is going to do. Bumpsteering the IRS will correct this condition and the car will feel like it's riding on rails.
just received my kit....Bruce Kicks a$$ with help, and getting back with you via e-mail responsiveness..and is very helpful when it comes to setting up suspension...he did not try to sell me his kit, just said it needed attention...and was not pressing to try to get me to purchase his spacific kit...and he gave me a military discount...
thanks Bruce!!!
____________________________________
"Happiness is being blown and stroked at the same time"
-93 GT 347ci, 5 speed Lenco Tranny -=805 RWHP=-
-04 MYSTIC Cobra (nearly stock)
just received my kit....Bruce Kicks a$$ with help, and getting back with you via e-mail responsiveness..and is very helpful when it comes to setting up suspension...he did not try to sell me his kit, just said it needed attention...and was not pressing to try to get me to purchase his spacific kit...and he gave me a military discount...
Wow I just read through this entire thread (ok maybe not in 1 sitting) and it has been one of the best threads I've ever read on an automotive forum, not only the amount of technical info but the members standing up for one of their own is amazing....great work on the kit and this will be something to look into for sure!
The 5% discount has been very popular. We've decided to make this a permanent option. It saves us money from having to pay credit card and Pay-Pal fees, so we are going to pass that, along with a little additional bonus, on to our customers.
If you want to take advantage of this offer, you can go to our order page:
At the bottom of that page there is an order form you can fill out on line. When you fill it out checking one of the four payment options on the bottom of that form it will automatically calculate your 5% discount. After you've filled it out, print it from your computer and mail it in with your payment. If you've sent a personal check we have to hold it for a week.
You will be sent an email with tracking information once your order is shipped.
Of course we are still retaining the shopping cart for immediate payments via credit card and Pay-Pal for those of you with immediate needs. All orders received before Noon are shipped the same day.
We're glad to see the benefits of a modded IRS are finally catching on.
Too bad the people converting to an SRA are not nearly as happy as our customers upgrading their IRS!
If I have the MM aluminum diff mounts, can I hang onto those? What's the diff (lol) going to be going to your Diff Kit?
Also, when do the Cross Axis Joints need to be replaced?
Thanks!
There are a couple of differences in our front diff support and the MM front diff support. #1 is the design. Both versions are made of the same material and perform the same functions just doing it different ways. #2 is our front diff mount kit can be purchased separately, the MM kit cannot be purchased without the rear mount as well. #3 is the price. Their kit is about 2X$ of ours.
As far as the rear goes, our kit utilizes the OEM bracket. The end user removes the rubber from the OEM bracket and installs Delrin bushings and an aluminum sleeve in it's place. This helps keep NVH in check in the rear mount. So our kit is only half as noisy as the MM kit.
The short answer for you is you've already shelled out the cash for the MM parts, you might as well stick with them!
Cross axis joints only need to be replaced when they get play in them. Normal street use will rarely kill them. Regular road course torture with red hot rotors and lots of pressure from g's running racing slicks will tear them up.
There are a couple of differences in our front diff support and the MM front diff support. #1 is the design. Both versions are made of the same material and perform the same functions just doing it different ways. #2 is our front diff mount kit can be purchased separately, the MM kit cannot be purchased without the rear mount as well. #3 is the price. Their kit is about 2X$ of ours.
As far as the rear goes, our kit utilizes the OEM bracket. The end user removes the rubber from the OEM bracket and installs Delrin bushings and an aluminum sleeve in it's place. This helps keep NVH in check in the rear mount. So our kit is only half as noisy as the MM kit.
The short answer for you is you've already shelled out the cash for the MM parts, you might as well stick with them!
Cross axis joints only need to be replaced when they get play in them. Normal street use will rarely kill them. Regular road course torture with red hot rotors and lots of pressure from g's running racing slicks will tear them up.
Hope that answers your questions.
Thanks Bruce. One more:
How easy is it to pull the pumpkin later to replace the diff? I know it would probably be easier with the IRS apart, but I don't want to have the additional expense if I don't need to do it now.
Stocker has 49k and was planning on going to a T2R once I get it on the track more often.
How easy is it to pull the pumpkin later to replace the diff? I know it would probably be easier with the IRS apart, but I don't want to have the additional expense if I don't need to do it now.
Stocker has 49k and was planning on going to a T2R once I get it on the track more often.
In order to remove the differential housing you need to drop the driveshaft, cat-back, ABS sensors and both halfshafts.
After you do it a few times you get pretty good at it!
I am contemplating your kit and was wondering when will you be getting the adjustable sway bar end link kit back in stock. I'm in no hurry, but when it comes time I wanted to get the entire setup and do it all at once.
Thanks,
-Tom
____________________________________
2003 Sonic Blue Cobra
1993 X-CHP SSP Mustang
I am contemplating your kit and was wondering when will you be getting the adjustable sway bar end link kit back in stock. I'm in no hurry, but when it comes time I wanted to get the entire setup and do it all at once.
Thanks,
-Tom
Tom:
My answer is Good news/bad news.
The bad news is we still don't have the sway bar end links in stock yet but hopefully we are getting close with a new supplier. However no definite delivery date yet unfortunately.
The good news is the installation of the sway bar end links can be done at any time. They are not associated with the installation of the IRS bushing kit and require no additional disassembly of any other components in the IRS to install the end links.
I purchased the full IRS kit a couple months ago. I wanted to wait until I put some miles on it to see how things worked out. I'm happy to say that with 500 miles on it I am very pleased.
The kit goes in as instructed. Everything just works. I have no noise or binding issues with the bushings. There is more noise from the diff than before, but I had my differential rebuilt while it was out, so it is hard to know what is added noise from the hard mounted diff. Not something you would notice unless you are cruising on the highway with the radio off. I have a very quiet exhaust (stock cats still in).
I can tell you this. I could never power out of a corner like I can now. Not even close. I would do it again without a question. I spent the entire day Saturday at an AutoX on steroids and was never left wondering where the rear was going (like I normally was).
Also, I had a drain drilled and tapped in the diff while it was out. Something that you may want to consider to make fluid changes easier or to add a cooler later....
____________________________________
"When you do things right, people won't be sure you've done anything at all."
How do you guys say your rides hang with say a MM setup solid axle or a Griggs? Can you guys surpass a setup 3 link or 4 link solid axle car? Also, hows the launch in straight line races can you put the power to the pavement without concern of breakage?
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