Official UOA thread with oil poll

[UnleashedBeast]

I have created an Excel spreadsheet to compare/contrast every Shelby 5.4L UOA I have ever collected, and I need more samples to show trends.




Base green color samples are random UOAs waiting for a follow up.
Other "like" color groupings are samples taken from the same engine.

Some of you will notice your UOA is included, as I have snatched a few UOAs from SVT Performance forums. If you have a UOA on your 5.4L Shelby engine that isn't on the list, please post it here for all to see, and I will update this picture with your information.

The poll is to get an idea what everyone is using in their Shelby for engine lubrication. If you chose the "other" option.....please post what you are using in your engine. If anyone needs to know where to get oil testing, visit one of the website links below. Please, if you have your oil tested with Blackstone....opt for the extra $10.00 to have TBN tested. OAI provides TBN testing included with the price. OAI also tests for oxidation (Blackstone does not). Both labs will yield very close consistent results.

Blackstone - will cost $25.00 for basic test, $35.00 with TBN, plus the cost of shipping ($1.90 USPS)

OAI testing kits UPS prepaid - will cost $32.20 - Amsoil preferred customers get this test for $25.95

I'm currently testing the performance of Amsoil 10W-30 in my engine, and the results have been stellar.

[ViperBlueCobra]

I just ordered the test kit, the free one.

I'm changing my oil this week.

I'll let you know my results. I use the Motorcraft 5w50.

[UnleashedBeast]

Originally Posted by ViperBlueCobra

I just ordered the test kit, the free one.

I'm changing my oil this week.

I'll let you know my results. I use the Motorcraft 5w50.

It's not free, you have to provide your credit card information when you do the test. They send the kit to you free....payment for testing is required later.

Thanks for the sample. You are contributing to the GT500 community and will have first hand knowledge if your engine has any issues.

[stkjock]

Troy - how would you, simply, to get a sample out of the car if one is not changing the fill?

[UnleashedBeast]

Originally Posted by stkjock

Troy - how would you, simply, to get a sample out of the car if one is not changing the fill?

Amsoil Sample Pump

I have one, and love it. Makes it easy to take a sample from the dip stick tube.

[stkjock]

and what if we don't want to shell out the $30 bucks (yea I'm a cheap skate)

[Ray Lucca]

Troy: Which kit is the better unit, the UPS or the postage paid kit?? Pricing is almost the same..I'm in S. Ca., where are the kits processed?? Thanx

[UnleashedBeast]

Originally Posted by stkjock

and what if we don't want to shell out the $30 bucks (yea I'm a cheap skate)

Wrap your lips around the dip stick tube....and suck really hard. When your mouth is full of oil. Spit it into the test container. Make a note that any moisture detected is saliva.

Originally Posted by Ray Lucca

Troy: Which kit is the better unit, the UPS or the postage paid kit?? Pricing is almost the same..I'm in S. Ca., where are the kits processed?? Thanx

Ray, I've found UPS to be much more consistent in shipping, so it's worth the extra $1.00. It's arrives at Polaris Labs quicker, and I get results faster. I only have to wait 5-6 business days to have results from samples I send in. Mine go to a lab in Indiana. Here is a list.

Laboratory Location

Indianapolis
Houston
Salt Lake City
Atlanta
Edmonton

Even if your sample is shipped to Indiana, I can't see it delaying the results more than 2 days.

[stkjock]

Originally Posted by UnleashedBeast

Wrap your lips around the dip stick tube....and suck really hard. When your mouth is full of oil. Spit it into the test container. Make a note that any moisture detected is saliva.

[UnleashedBeast]

Originally Posted by stkjock

On a more serious note. I can see unscrewing the oil filter to gain a sample, but make a note that you took the sample from the filter. The lab will take that into consideration, as this isn't going to provide as accurate of sample. Wear metals make read elevated.

[CuZzO99L]

I bought the Amsoil 10-30 to throw in once im done doing the first two 500 mile 10-30 nonsynthetic break in changes.. Did you get oil anaylisis back on this weight yet? Hope it will be ok with the Turbos and high boost..

[UnleashedBeast]

Originally Posted by CuZzO99L

I bought the Amsoil 10-30 to throw in once im done doing the first two 500 mile 10-30 nonsynthetic break in changes.. Did you get oil anaylisis back on this weight yet? Hope it will be ok with the Turbos and high boost..

No UOA yet, but I'm boosting up to 17 PSI, and the car runs flawless. No weird noises, an I'm almost convinced that the valve train noise is quieter with 10W-30 than it was with 10W-40. Still, that's just me splitting hairs. What are your plans with the car? Quick bursts down the quarter mile? What cooling mods in your engine (170* stat, upgraded radiator, etc).

Had an L&M custom block that had too great of oil pressure with conventional 10W-30 during break in, so it was chosen to use Amsoil RD20 (5W-20 racing oil) in that 1,000 HP setup cruising down the Texas Mile. Although, that stuff is loaded with ZDDP.

[stkjock]

Troy - did you notice a good amount of valve train noise? Since I drive the car so little I get paranoid. it just seems like its a damn loud motor.

[UnleashedBeast]

Originally Posted by stkjock

Troy - did you notice a good amount of valve train noise? Since I drive the car so little I get paranoid. it just seems like its a damn loud motor.

Considering my previous 4.6L yes, there was more valve train noise...

Considering my 1999 LS1....NO, that thing was a sewing machine.

Both 10W-40 and 10W-30 are so close...the difference may be in my head. I wouldn't worry much about it.

[WHT03SVTCOLO]

Im about to do my first oil change and wondering what is best to use? Mine is a DD with occasional strip and track. Thinking of pulley and T-stat with HE in near future. Unleashed Beast what do you recommend?

[CuZzO99L]

Originally Posted by UnleashedBeast

No UOA yet, but I'm boosting up to 17 PSI, and the car runs flawless. No weird noises, an I'm almost convinced that the valve train noise is quieter with 10W-30 than it was with 10W-40. Still, that's just me splitting hairs. What are your plans with the car? Quick bursts down the quarter mile? What cooling mods in your engine (170* stat, upgraded radiator, etc).

Had an L&M custom block that had too great of oil pressure with conventional 10W-30 during break in, so it was chosen to use Amsoil RD20 (5W-20 racing oil) in that 1,000 HP setup cruising down the Texas Mile. Although, that stuff is loaded with ZDDP.

The motor is a MMR1000 stock comp. Melling Billet geared oil pump. My cooling mods are 170* stat, stock radiator, (until someone advises me I truly need a bigger one) Afco Dual fan and a True Forged tank with redline for the S/C coolant. My plans for the car is to keep it very safe and conservative for the street 650 or so would be plenty. Then have a tune with a little more in it for when i get called out lol And I would like to make one nice big boost pull on the Dyno once it's tuned just so I can hang a hefty dyno sheet in my office...(don't flame me) Other then that It will see some interstate time traveling to Houston once or twice a year about 700miles round trip. And eventually go make a cpl 13sec passes down the local 1/4.

[UnleashedBeast]

Originally Posted by WHT03SVTCOLO

Im about to do my first oil change and wondering what is best to use? Mine is a DD with occasional strip and track. Thinking of pulley and T-stat with HE in near future. Unleashed Beast what do you recommend?

Cooking oil low in trans fat! lol

Originally Posted by CuZzO99L

The motor is a MMR1000 stock comp. Melling Billet geared oil pump. My cooling mods are 170* stat, stock radiator, (until someone advises me I truly need a bigger one) Afco Dual fan and a True Forged tank with redline for the S/C coolant. My plans for the car is to keep it very safe and conservative for the street 650 or so would be plenty. Then have a tune with a little more in it for when i get called out lol And I would like to make one nice big boost pull on the Dyno once it's tuned just so I can hang a hefty dyno sheet in my office...(don't flame me) Other then that It will see some interstate time traveling to Houston once or twice a year about 700miles round trip. And eventually go make a cpl 13sec passes down the local 1/4.

Keep an eye on oil pressure. If you don't have a gauge, get one. Report back with your oil pressure using 10W-30 in your engine so we can compare stock to monster build block.

[CuZzO99L]

10-4 sir!! ummm where am I tapping in at? lol Thanks.

[UnleashedBeast]

Originally Posted by CuZzO99L

10-4 sir!! ummm where am I tapping in at? lol Thanks.

See post #4 and #9 in this thread.

Oil pressure gauge

[kanae]

Thanks Men for the Great overview

[ViperBlueCobra]

Originally Posted by UnleashedBeast

It's not free, you have to provide your credit card information when you do the test. They send the kit to you free....payment for testing is required later.

Thanks for the sample. You are contributing to the GT500 community and will have first hand knowledge if your engine has any issues.

Yeah, no worries.

However, I'm not sure what all that means in the spread sheet your posting. Can you elaborate a bit on each colum?

[UnleashedBeast]

Originally Posted by ViperBlueCobra

Yeah, no worries.

However, I'm not sure what all that means in the spread sheet your posting. Can you elaborate a bit on each colum?

UOA report explanation

Click the link above, then click on "Gas/Diesel" report. When the report opens on your screen, read everything and hover your pointer over all areas for an explanation.

[Ray Lucca]

What is TBN?? it isn't explained on the sample. I know it's discussed a lot. Higher is better???

[UnleashedBeast]

Originally Posted by Ray Lucca

What is TBN?? it isn't explained on the sample. I know it's discussed a lot. Higher is better???

TBN (Total Base Number) is what we refer to as a detergent additive, or acid neutralizing additive. This is what fights to keep a lubricant neutral on a pH balance to avoid the lubricant become overly acidic and eating away at the metals in an engine.

Yes, the higher the better. Higher TBN in a lubricant normally suggests a longer possible oil change interval.

[CuZzO99L]

Ordered the oil pressure kit for my aeroforce. Looking like fri for the first Start up. MMR has instructed me to use Penzoil 10W30 non synthetic untill the I get 500 miles on it, then do one more 500 mile interval with the same 10w30 and then switch to whatever I want. Im really non sure on the whole second 500 mile interval seems like everything should be broken in during the first heat cycle right? How long do you guys normally wait before going on the dyno with a brand new motor? Anyway, I have the Amsoil 10W30 Synthetic and EA filters waiting for post break in.