Official UOA thread with oil poll

What oil are you currently using in your Shelby 5.4L?


  • Total voters
    449
  • Poll closed .

UnleashedBeast

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I have created an Excel spreadsheet to compare/contrast every Shelby 5.4L UOA I have ever collected, and I need more samples to show trends.

UOAchart_zpscedca8a0.jpg


UOAchart2_zps517d40be.jpg


Base green color samples are random UOAs waiting for a follow up.
Other "like" color groupings are samples taken from the same engine.

Some of you will notice your UOA is included, as I have snatched a few UOAs from SVT Performance forums. If you have a UOA on your 5.4L Shelby engine that isn't on the list, please post it here for all to see, and I will update this picture with your information.

The poll is to get an idea what everyone is using in their Shelby for engine lubrication. If you chose the "other" option.....please post what you are using in your engine. If anyone needs to know where to get oil testing, visit one of the website links below. Please, if you have your oil tested with Blackstone....opt for the extra $10.00 to have TBN tested. OAI provides TBN testing included with the price. OAI also tests for oxidation (Blackstone does not). Both labs will yield very close consistent results.

Blackstone - will cost $25.00 for basic test, $35.00 with TBN, plus the cost of shipping ($1.90 USPS)

OAI testing kits UPS prepaid - will cost $32.20 - Amsoil preferred customers get this test for $25.95



Here is the current recommendation list for the 2007-2012 GT500 (as of February 2016)

Factory Fill is 6.5 quarts (stock oil pan) and 8 quarts with an aftermarket oil pan.

Amsoil AZF 0W-40 – Use this no matter what thermostat is in your engine and the car is used for street /drag use only.

Amsoil AMR 5W-50 – Use this if you HPDE or closed course race your GT500. Also use this lubricant if you are afraid to use anything other than what Ford recommends.

Amsoil EaO11 oil filter - 98.7% efficiency @ 20 microns, yet still flow better than a Motorcraft FL-820 (only 93.7% efficiency @ 20 microns).

Make your T6060 transmission shift like butter.

Amsoil Synthetic ATF - 3.6 quart fill (buy a gallon and use the left over fluid in your power steering pump)

Bottle Hand Pump - fits quarts and gallons (makes refilling the transmission and rear differential very easy)

For your rear differential

Amsoil 75W-140 - 2.5 quart fill – buy 3 quarts to make sure you have enough.

Friction modifier is required in the factory differential. Use all 4 ounces

Amsoil Slip Lock - 1 bottle required

and never pay retail price for it. Get it at dealer cost by adding this to your cart before you check out (save 25-30% on everything). Use the one year option.

Preferred Customer
 
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ViperBlueCobra

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I just ordered the test kit, the free one.

I'm changing my oil this week.

I'll let you know my results. I use the Motorcraft 5w50.
 

UnleashedBeast

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I just ordered the test kit, the free one.

I'm changing my oil this week.

I'll let you know my results. I use the Motorcraft 5w50.

It's not free, you have to provide your credit card information when you do the test. They send the kit to you free....payment for testing is required later.

Thanks for the sample. You are contributing to the GT500 community and will have first hand knowledge if your engine has any issues.
 

stkjock

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Troy - how would you, simply, to get a sample out of the car if one is not changing the fill?
 

stkjock

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and what if we don't want to shell out the $30 bucks (yea I'm a cheap skate)
 

Ray Lucca

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Troy: Which kit is the better unit, the UPS or the postage paid kit?? Pricing is almost the same..I'm in S. Ca., where are the kits processed?? Thanx
 

UnleashedBeast

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and what if we don't want to shell out the $30 bucks (yea I'm a cheap skate)

Wrap your lips around the dip stick tube....and suck really hard. When your mouth is full of oil. Spit it into the test container. Make a note that any moisture detected is saliva. :D

Troy: Which kit is the better unit, the UPS or the postage paid kit?? Pricing is almost the same..I'm in S. Ca., where are the kits processed?? Thanx

Ray, I've found UPS to be much more consistent in shipping, so it's worth the extra $1.00. It's arrives at Polaris Labs quicker, and I get results faster. I only have to wait 5-6 business days to have results from samples I send in. Mine go to a lab in Indiana. Here is a list.

Laboratory Location

Indianapolis
Houston
Salt Lake City
Atlanta
Edmonton

Even if your sample is shipped to Indiana, I can't see it delaying the results more than 2 days.
 
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UnleashedBeast

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umad.gif


On a more serious note. I can see unscrewing the oil filter to gain a sample, but make a note that you took the sample from the filter. The lab will take that into consideration, as this isn't going to provide as accurate of sample. Wear metals make read elevated.
 

CuZzO99L

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I bought the Amsoil 10-30 to throw in once im done doing the first two 500 mile 10-30 nonsynthetic break in changes.. Did you get oil anaylisis back on this weight yet? Hope it will be ok with the Turbos and high boost..
 

UnleashedBeast

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I bought the Amsoil 10-30 to throw in once im done doing the first two 500 mile 10-30 nonsynthetic break in changes.. Did you get oil anaylisis back on this weight yet? Hope it will be ok with the Turbos and high boost..

No UOA yet, but I'm boosting up to 17 PSI, and the car runs flawless. No weird noises, an I'm almost convinced that the valve train noise is quieter with 10W-30 than it was with 10W-40. Still, that's just me splitting hairs. What are your plans with the car? Quick bursts down the quarter mile? What cooling mods in your engine (170* stat, upgraded radiator, etc).

Had an L&M custom block that had too great of oil pressure with conventional 10W-30 during break in, so it was chosen to use Amsoil RD20 (5W-20 racing oil) in that 1,000 HP setup cruising down the Texas Mile. Although, that stuff is loaded with ZDDP.
 
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stkjock

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Troy - did you notice a good amount of valve train noise? Since I drive the car so little I get paranoid. it just seems like its a damn loud motor.
 

UnleashedBeast

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Troy - did you notice a good amount of valve train noise? Since I drive the car so little I get paranoid. it just seems like its a damn loud motor.

Considering my previous 4.6L yes, there was more valve train noise...

Considering my 1999 LS1....NO, that thing was a sewing machine. :D

Both 10W-40 and 10W-30 are so close...the difference may be in my head. I wouldn't worry much about it.
 

WHT03SVTCOLO

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Im about to do my first oil change and wondering what is best to use? Mine is a DD with occasional strip and track. Thinking of pulley and T-stat with HE in near future. Unleashed Beast what do you recommend?
 

CuZzO99L

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No UOA yet, but I'm boosting up to 17 PSI, and the car runs flawless. No weird noises, an I'm almost convinced that the valve train noise is quieter with 10W-30 than it was with 10W-40. Still, that's just me splitting hairs. What are your plans with the car? Quick bursts down the quarter mile? What cooling mods in your engine (170* stat, upgraded radiator, etc).

Had an L&M custom block that had too great of oil pressure with conventional 10W-30 during break in, so it was chosen to use Amsoil RD20 (5W-20 racing oil) in that 1,000 HP setup cruising down the Texas Mile. Although, that stuff is loaded with ZDDP.

The motor is a MMR1000 stock comp. Melling Billet geared oil pump. My cooling mods are 170* stat, stock radiator, (until someone advises me I truly need a bigger one) Afco Dual fan and a True Forged tank with redline for the S/C coolant. My plans for the car is to keep it very safe and conservative for the street 650 or so would be plenty. Then have a tune with a little more in it for when i get called out lol And I would like to make one nice big boost pull on the Dyno once it's tuned just so I can hang a hefty dyno sheet in my office...(don't flame me) Other then that It will see some interstate time traveling to Houston once or twice a year about 700miles round trip. And eventually go make a cpl 13sec passes down the local 1/4.
 
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UnleashedBeast

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Im about to do my first oil change and wondering what is best to use? Mine is a DD with occasional strip and track. Thinking of pulley and T-stat with HE in near future. Unleashed Beast what do you recommend?

Cooking oil low in trans fat! lol

The motor is a MMR1000 stock comp. Melling Billet geared oil pump. My cooling mods are 170* stat, stock radiator, (until someone advises me I truly need a bigger one) Afco Dual fan and a True Forged tank with redline for the S/C coolant. My plans for the car is to keep it very safe and conservative for the street 650 or so would be plenty. Then have a tune with a little more in it for when i get called out lol And I would like to make one nice big boost pull on the Dyno once it's tuned just so I can hang a hefty dyno sheet in my office...(don't flame me) Other then that It will see some interstate time traveling to Houston once or twice a year about 700miles round trip. And eventually go make a cpl 13sec passes down the local 1/4.


Keep an eye on oil pressure. If you don't have a gauge, get one. Report back with your oil pressure using 10W-30 in your engine so we can compare stock to monster build block.
 

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