Guys, this is no bs. I sent my cluster to CobradaCableGuy and rec'd it back in a week with this modification done to it. The illumination works like new, was simple to complete and saved me hundreds of dollars. I also did not have to bring my car into Ford and leave it with them for a few days, which was something I was dreading. The option of buying a used dash (which can go out at any time) or a new dash (which can also go out) versus fixing it once a for all made this an easy decision for me. Thanks for all of the help Edward, it was great dealing with you. Well worth the $95
My cluster lighting just went out on my 03 tonight. Where in Texas are you located? My car is my daily driver so I need down time to a minimum. I am also in Texas.
Thanks
I figured out that the foglight switch is what is causing the instrument cluster lights to go out. As long as the foglights are not on the gauge lights work fine. If you put the fog lights on, the gauges lights will "trip" off it seems. So it seems the foglight circuit is "tripping" a relay that powers the gauge luminescents.
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Daryl
'93 Cobra "R" (#59).......'03 Cobra 10th Coupe
'93 Cobra "R" (#39).......'93 Coupe 5.0/5spd
'00 Cobra "R" (#36).......'84 Coupe 5.0/5spd
'93 Cobra Red(#621).....'84,'86,'86 SVO's
'03 Ford SD CC 4x4 7.3 PSD
My cluster lighting just went out on my 03 tonight. Where in Texas are you located? My car is my daily driver so I need down time to a minimum. I am also in Texas.
Thanks
Laredo,Texas turn around time is usaully between 3 buisness days Thanks...
Last edited by CobradaCableGuy; 09-16-2009 at 12:04 AM.
BF 2.76 Upper & Idlers l BF TB & Plenum l Afco Dual Pass H/E l Magnaflow Cat-back l Offroad X-pipe l MGW Orange STS l HBH CAI l NGK TR6's l PPRV Delete l 180 Therm l BF IRS Brace l MM FLSFC l Steeda Sport Lowering Springs l LFP Intercooler Tank l Canton Radiator Tank l 5000k HID Headlights and Fogs l 18" fr500 on BF Goodrich KDW2 l Powdercoated Valve Covers l GDM Trunk Lid Mat
just wanted to know have not found any TSB's or recalls does any one know if ford is going to recall them since there getting crap from this company
VISTEON Sucks unless you are a manufacturer purchasing 100,000 units of their product. Its not all that great of a design in many American car applications. Therefore the crappy BS should work and really should outlast the car.
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2003 Cobra Vert Anniversary model
Mods: Kenne Bell 2.2, Billetflow idlers (4), Accufab single blade throttle body, K&N GenII CAI, Fore fuel hat with dual GT40 pumps, Dual FPDMs, wiring upgrade, Siemens DEKA 60# injectors, Racer Walsh HUGE heat exchanger, Magnaflow catback with Magnapacks, Bruce's full IRS Delrin Bushing upgrade kit, Billetflow differential brace, Bilstein sport coilovers 400#front and 600#rear spring rates, Maximum Full length subframe connectors, Maximum caster/camber plates, Maximum front control arms, Maximum solid steering shaft, Maximum front tie rod ends/bumpsteer kit, Maximum aluminum steering rack bushings, Maximum IRS adjustable tie rods, Maximum adjustable swaybar end links, 18" FR500 wheels, Cobra R Brembo brakes with 2 piece rotors, Fidanza aluminum flywheel and head cooling mod awaiting install when clutch arrives, Steeda firewall clutch adjuster and billet quadrant, SCT X Cal2, tuned in Germany by TONY from HP-Performance (Orange Park, Florida) 607 RWHP.
Slightly off topic but I pulled my cluster the other day to knock some fine dust that had gotten through the little button hole and settled on the bottom of the gauges. I ended up just leaving the cluster in and pulling the lens off the half pulled cluster, since I couldn't see how the boost gauge was hooked up and didn't have a manual and didn't want to break anything (or pull it out but then not be able to reach my hand in their to reconnect it). It was on there damn tight.
It's a hard plastic line coupled into some rubber, and the line doesn't seem that long. Is that rubber just a coupler into a barb on the gauge and is that barb metal, is the coupler fused to the plastic line in any way, etc? Want to know so next time I can just rip that biatch out, maybe replace that rubber bit with a longer length of hose so there is more room to pull it out in the future without tugging hard at the hard line.
Linear Mode
