A notched tensioner (pics & info)

[dynobobstieg]

A notched tensioner will allow you to put a 1/2 inch shorter belt.

A simple and common sense way to improve torque and lessen belt slippage is to grind the pulley stop.
First move your water tank to the side and then remove center bolt. Grind the notch 3/4 back, replace bolt-then tank.

 

[GodStang]

This is just a question but does this not cause added stress on the blower snout?

 

[AaronK]

Very helpful post. Thanks! :beer:

 

[03dsgcobranc]

This is just a question but does this not cause added stress on the blower snout?

+1 any ill effects from doing this?

 

[DaveHutch]

hmmm i took mine clean off. any disadvantages?

 

[Steve@TF]

hmmm i took mine clean off. any disadvantages?

i took mine clean off too. iirc, we just used a flat tip screwdriver.

everyone says that it will void your warranty (if you still have one). didnt stop ford from replacing my motor :read:

 

[ShelbyGuy]

its very hard on the upper shell of the #1 main bearing

guys like me will be buying un-ground pulley bridges in the future...

 

[SicStang03]

Eh, I really don't see the point. I have always had a 2.76" and never had issues with belt slip. Even had the stock belt and one 100mm idler for a lil while

 

[black 10th vert]

I just used a long screw driver and a hammer to snap off the the little tab on the part that moves. Worked great for me.

 

[MVD]

So by notching the tensioner you can run a 1/2" shorter belt........well no $hit, you just allowed the tensioner to travel an extra 1/2". You are not doing anything else.

There is no point to doing this. The tensioner is supposed to be able to move when the motor revs. If you have belt slip notching the tensioner does not help elimtate it.........non slip pulleys, belt dressing and an auxilary idler eliminate belt slip.

:nonono:

 

[JB]

What he posted was relevant to those who wish to run a shorter belt (for whatever reason...)

Without modifying the stop, you won't be able to get that shorter belt installed

You will also have to remove top idler pulley and then slide it into place on the bracket as a last step after belt is routed.
Once fully seated on the bracket boss, it will stay in place until you can install the bolt.

This is the belt installation method (regardless of size) that BILLETFLOW recommends because the belt stays undamaged by avoiding twisting or sharp pulley edges :thumbsup:

.

 

[jm@ReischePerf]

Steggy's a 100% right on this from my experience. I've measured the tensioner forces and running a belt that places the tensioner where it does in his pic will increase the force on the belt by approx 30-40%. And this WILL decrease the chance of belt slip. Never spray belt dressing on your supercharger belt.

 

[MVD]

Never spray belt dressing on your supercharger belt.

Why? What is the intended use of belt dressing if not used for dressing the belt?

I will use belt dressing all day before I put all the extra stress on the crank and drive snout of the Eaton with a rediculously tight belt. The FEAD system is supposed to have some flex in the belt.......if not they would use a chain drive like a bicycle.

 

[chopps]

Why? What is the intended use of belt dressing if not used for dressing the belt?

I will use belt dressing all day before I put all the extra stress on the crank and drive snout of the Eaton with a rediculously tight belt. The FEAD system is supposed to have some flex in the belt.......if not they would use a chain drive like a bicycle.

Yeah that stuff"belt dressing" is nasty and will never use it unless its the LAST thing in the world.

Steggy's a 100% right on this from my experience. I've measured the tensioner forces and running a belt that places the tensioner where it does in his pic will increase the force on the belt by approx 30-40%. And this WILL decrease the chance of belt slip. Never spray belt dressing on your supercharger belt.

Oh so True 30/40% belt tension is a good thing.

 

[Romans8:28]

This thread is scary to mechanical engineers

 

[antiv6]

i dont see the point either, i have 1 idler and a 2.76 and have never had belt slip

 

[01cobravortech]

I have a notched tensioner and I believe it may be what solved my belt slip.

 

[jm@ReischePerf]

If you're using a non-slip design upper pulley, belt tension is probably not as critical. But stock Eaton and Whipple upper pulleys have been known to slip at the stock belt tensioner setting.

 

[IronTerp]

I'm not a stong proponent of notching the tensioner either. As JM posted, the advent of the non-slip pulley design had a very positive affect on the incidence of belt slip and the factory tensioner system appears to work quite well in most setups with this pulley design. The extra belt tension certainly would add extra stress on the blower snout and the crank pulley, as well as most likely increasing parasitic drag.

 

[AaronK]

Why? What is the intended use of belt dressing if not used for dressing the belt?

I will use belt dressing all day before I put all the extra stress on the crank and drive snout of the Eaton with a rediculously tight belt. The FEAD system is supposed to have some flex in the belt.......if not they would use a chain drive like a bicycle.

I thought belt dressing was designed to stop the belt from squealing. I didn't think it would reduce belt slip :shrug: ... I don't use that stuff, so I really wouldn't know.