I've been looking through the forums to get an answer on this but most of the threads go off topic or don't answer this specific question. Im looking to buy a KB 2.2L and I want to see what all i will need to safely run 600rwhp (or close to it). Please be as specific as possible when naming parts, and if you have any links to the mentioned parts please include them. Thanks a lot!
well im definitely not trying to spend an arm and a leg cause im a college student but im looking to spend somewhere between $2000-$2500 for the blower. And as for everything else i don't know that's why im asking you all. As for mods right now, I only have a Bassani Catted X, and a Borla Stinger Catback. I also have the Cobra front emblem which was good for 2 horsepower.
- Zone 5 MDM to drive the fuel pumps.
- Two Ford GT40 fuel pumps
- Fluidyne Heat Exchanger
- 60/80 lb injectors
- Accufab TB and plenum
- SCT2600/3000 MAF
- Going to have to be dynotuned
- Exhaust...my current setup is Bassani OR x pipe and Borla Stingers
That would be a solid setup. Would set you up for future upgrades as well.
If you wanted to make it really stout get the Fore Triple pump fuel hat too. Just put two pumps in for now though. Can always upgrade to a third if you decide to go nuts with a 3.4 whipple or something down the road.
Not including links, your lazy ass can get it all from lethal performance.
The cheapest would be:
- MAFia ($155.00)
- Single blade TB ($450.00)
- 60# injectors ($430.00)
- BAP ($275.00)
- Heat Exchanger ($300.00 +/-)
- IRS brace ($160.00)
- Plus Tuner ($350.00) and tune
But I would do the GT pumps/ and a stage 2 FPDM ($615.00). Also you are gonna need a to start saving for a new clutch aswell. Depending on how you drive that stocker is not gonna last for long. While the blower is off you should do the head cooling mod ($100.00). You never mentioned if you have a Air intake either, you'll need one of those too.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hkaiser83
If it were my Cobra I would do the following.
- Zone 5 MDM to drive the fuel pumps.
- Two Ford GT40 fuel pumps
- Fluidyne Heat Exchanger
- 60/80 lb injectors
- Accufab TB and plenum
- SCT2600/3000 MAF
- Going to have to be dynotuned
- Exhaust...my current setup is Bassani OR x pipe and Borla Stingers
Don't need a Plenum on a Twin Screw and this setup would be a little over kill for someone trying to do it on a budget.
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04 Whippled Cobra - #3118 of 3768
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Last edited by younggun04; 02-09-2009 at 05:28 PM.
- Zone 5 MDM to drive the fuel pumps.
- Two Ford GT40 fuel pumps
- Fluidyne Heat Exchanger
- 60/80 lb injectors
- Accufab TB and plenum
- SCT2600/3000 MAF
- Going to have to be dynotuned
- Exhaust...my current setup is Bassani OR x pipe and Borla Stingers
That would be a solid setup. Would set you up for future upgrades as well.
If you wanted to make it really stout get the Fore Triple pump fuel hat too. Just put two pumps in for now though. Can always upgrade to a third if you decide to go nuts with a 3.4 whipple or something down the road.
Not including links, your lazy ass can get it all from lethal performance.
why the GT40 fuel pumps over the Kenne Bell BAP. wouldn't 60lb injectors be big enough. which one the SCT2600 or 3000 keep in mind my hp goal is 600 at the wheels. What would the Fore Triple pump fuel hat and Zone 5 MDM do and would i really need them?
was thinking about the port/pulley but i want to be at or very close to 600rwhp, and i know that a port will only get me In the mid 500's. I would also rather just do it right the first time than get a port and then later upgrade to a Twin Screw ya know
Some good advice has been given so far. I will add my opinion as well.
Cold air intake: steeda, JLT, ect
Idler pulleys: Billetflow or Metco
Heat Exchanger: LFP
Head Cooling mod
Boost-a-pump
60lb injectors with harness
Single blade throttle body
Billetflow Diff brace
Full length subframe connectors
Dyno tune
The dyno tune is by far the most important component. It ties everything together. With these modes you should be at or near 600 rwhp depending on the blower pulley that you chose. Don't get caught up in chasing a dyno number at the expense of safety and reliability. I've had my kb for over 2.5 years now without any problems. I chalk that up to my tuner and my driving style.
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2004 SVT Cobra with Mystichrome package, and 2.6H Black Blower Option
hey everyone thanks for your suggestions and thanks younggun04 for giving prices as well.
like you mentioned i really want to be safe so im definitely taking that into consideration.
several of you have mentioned getting a Throttle body...which one would you recommend. And is there a difference between a MAF and a MAFia? Hope that's not a dumb question but i've seen both.
if you guys have any more suggestions keep them coming cause i love all the different ideas.
why the GT40 fuel pumps over the Kenne Bell BAP. wouldn't 60lb injectors be big enough. which one the SCT2600 or 3000 keep in mind my hp goal is 600 at the wheels. What would the Fore Triple pump fuel hat and Zone 5 MDM do and would i really need them?
If you are gonna be ok at 600 rwhp you can skip the new pumps etc. and just add the KB BAP. The rest of this list is right on point. Throw in some subframe connectors when you can, but start with the IRS brace!!! $2500 bucks if you break the rear end because you didn't put the $150 part in.
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KB 2.8~Ford GT pumps~Modded FPDM~CPR rails~
60lb injectors~Accufab throttle body~6lb lower~
3.5" uppper~MAFIA~8an fuel lines~Custom IC reservoir~Johnson Controls IC pump~Mac LT~
Flowmasters~Level 5's~Steeda IRS brace~
Maximum front & rear solid busings~
Maximum polyurethane IRS Cradle bushings~
M/T 315 DR~
SCT Tune
Used to be 452 RWHP/479 RWTQ
Now 703 RWHP/645 RWTQ
The setup I mentioned was a rock solid build up. Something that can support big numbers beyond what you are planning for. Because the more horsepower you get the more you will want.
Yes, forgive my error. You will not need a plenum with the accufab.
- Zone 5 MDM to drive the fuel pumps.
- Two Ford GT40 fuel pumps
- Fluidyne Heat Exchanger
- 60/80 lb injectors
- Accufab TB and plenum
- SCT2600/3000 MAF
- Going to have to be dynotuned
- Exhaust...my current setup is Bassani OR x pipe and Borla Stingers
That would be a solid setup. Would set you up for future upgrades as well.
If you wanted to make it really stout get the Fore Triple pump fuel hat too. Just put two pumps in for now though. Can always upgrade to a third if you decide to go nuts with a 3.4 whipple or something down the road.
Not including links, your lazy ass can get it all from lethal performance.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hkaiser83
The setup I mentioned was a rock solid build up. Something that can support big numbers beyond what you are planning for. Because the more horsepower you get the more you will want.
Yes, forgive my error. You will not need a plenum with the accufab.
Wow to both answers lol. You will not need a plenum with the KenneBell. Not the Accufab lol.
Single Modified FPDM
Twin "GT" Fuel Pumps with wiring upgrade
Heat exchanger is a good idea but you can get by without one
60lb injectors (because they'll support way over 700hp so you don't need 80's)
SBTB
SCT 2600
After that you'll get what you'll end up needing. Like clutch, 26 spline input shaft........
That's about it.
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Whipple @ 22lbs - JLT RAI - SCT Big Air 2,400 - Accufab SBTB - 60lb inj's - Single Modified FPDM - Twin GT pumps - Afco dual pass H/E - H&R Race springs - Stock Iso's - ac427cobra's bushing kit - LMM Air Bags in rear - High Boost Overlay - MGW Shifter - Fiore adjuster - Kooks 1 5/8 Lt's - Kooks o/r x-pipe - Borla Catback - Head cooling mod - SCT X-Cal - Canton Expansion Tank - Level 5's - Bogart D10's - 28" Hoosier QTP's - True Forged IC resevoir - TF Victory Wheels- Posi ported lower intake - Autometer Phantom Boost & Fuel pressure gages...
Wow to both answers lol. You will not need a plenum with the KenneBell. Not the Accufab lol.
Single Modified FPDM
Twin "GT" Fuel Pumps with wiring upgrade
Heat exchanger is a good idea but you can get by without one
60lb injectors (because they'll support way over 700hp so you don't need 80's)
SBTB
SCT 2600
After that you'll get what you'll end up needing. Like clutch, 26 spline input shaft........
That's about it.
Hey numb nuts, I was saying he won't need a plenum when he gets the accufab.
By the way, how is that True Forged IC reservoir? I have been drooling over it for a week now.
There should be a thread in the tech section for necessary supporting mods for an upper pulley only, ported Eaton, and twin screw. Seems like this comes up a lot.
Hey posi you seem to be pretty knowledgeable as i've read a lot of your posts...what is that SBTB that you mentioned. And how will the Single Modified FPDM help out/benefit me? Im assuming you're suggesting i go with the Twin GT pumps over a BAP...why would you recommend that and is there anything else i would have to buy with those pumps to set it all up?
Single modified fpdm is required (can't remember why now) and will support up to 650hp before you need a dual. Altough I just went over it and no problems showed up on the dyno. I like the Twin GT pumps just because they are stand alone pumps. Flow is excellent and with the wiring upgrade you're fine for some pretty high hp. Just seems the bap started a long time ago because it was the only method then to add more fuel. Not really many aftermarket pumps back in the day. Me, I'd just rather have the upgraded pumps but the bap is on many people's cars with zero problems at all.
Hopefully someone with more knowledge will chime in about the FPDM. Also check out Lethal's website because they have descriptions there for their products. Let alone everything in stock.
OP I'll give you the tip of the day. Find someone with a combo like you will run. Then watch them and research their user profile. Then when you find out they know their crap pm the living daylights out of them. Most members on here will answer every single question. I know I've worn out a few members with questions and they know I greatly appreciated it.
Wow to both answers lol. You will not need a plenum with the KenneBell. Not the Accufab lol.
Single Modified FPDM
Twin "GT" Fuel Pumps with wiring upgrade
Heat exchanger is a good idea but you can get by without one
60lb injectors (because they'll support way over 700hp so you don't need 80's)
SBTB
SCT 2600
After that you'll get what you'll end up needing. Like clutch, 26 spline input shaft........
That's about it.
+1, dont skip out on the pumps and modded fpdm, i had hesitation issues with the bap..
A modded FPDM is required with GT pump because GT pumps run with more current than stock Cobra pumps. Stock Cobra pumps will pull about 18A while GT pumps can pull 25A. Running GT pumps with a stock FPDM can cause the FPDM to go into thermal shutdown.
I would personally suggest dual FPDMs over a single modified FPDM for a few reasons. First, a dual FPDM system will be able to supply more current to the pumps. A Stage 2 modified FPDM is capable of delivering ~25A of current, while a stock FPDM can deliver about ~18A to each pump. In a nutshell, this means that you'll be able to support more horsepower with dual FPDMs than a single modded FPDM.
Next, if you are able to do the dual FPDM harness yourself, it can actually cost you much less to go duals. Thinking about the absolutely cheapest way to go duals, you only need one additional harness (wired with the factory harness; ~$30 new, less if found in a junk yard), a used FPDM ($40 or less), some wire (~$20), and a relay/plug combo (~$20). Not including a wire upgrade to the battery, since that would be a good idea with either a modded FPDM or dual FPDMs, going duals can run you less than $100. Even with all new parts and being more elaborate, my dual FPDM setup cost me ~$200. A deal on a Stage 2 FPDM is $235.
IMO, the only real advantage to a modded FPDM is ease of install.
A modded FPDM is required with GT pump because GT pumps run with more current than stock Cobra pumps. Stock Cobra pumps will pull about 18A while GT pumps can pull 25A. Running GT pumps with a stock FPDM can cause the FPDM to go into thermal shutdown.
I would personally suggest dual FPDMs over a single modified FPDM for a few reasons. First, a dual FPDM system will be able to supply more current to the pumps. A Stage 2 modified FPDM is capable of delivering ~25A of current, while a stock FPDM can deliver about ~18A to each pump. In a nutshell, this means that you'll be able to support more horsepower with dual FPDMs than a single modded FPDM.
Next, if you are able to do the dual FPDM harness yourself, it can actually cost you much less to go duals. Thinking about the absolutely cheapest way to go duals, you only need one additional harness (wired with the factory harness; ~$30 new, less if found in a junk yard), a used FPDM ($40 or less), some wire (~$20), and a relay/plug combo (~$20). Not including a wire upgrade to the battery, since that would be a good idea with either a modded FPDM or dual FPDMs, going duals can run you less than $100. Even with all new parts and being more elaborate, my dual FPDM setup cost me ~$200. A deal on a Stage 2 FPDM is $235.
IMO, the only real advantage to a modded FPDM is ease of install.
probably one of the smartest posts in this thread.
the one thing missing is the Fore hat. how are you going to run the wires from the dual harness to the pumps? forget the drill a hole, grommet and seal all solution. it doesn't last and will leak resulting in possible fire.
but to add to the above post, something else to think about is the factory wiring. sure a modded fpdm works so it doesn't go into thermal shutdown, but I personally wouldn't trust the small gauge wire from the factory to run gt pumps and just a modified fpdm.
to the OP, it has been a long time since I have even looked up a 2.2KB or even seen one. lol refresh my memory, at what boost level does it take to hit 600rwhp with that TS? if it is anything over 18#, I would suggest talking to your tuner. most tuners do not like running more than 17-18# on 93 octane fuel and I doubt you will hit 600 at that boost level without some very aggressive timing or a lot of other motor/cam work.
if you are shooting for the upper 500's or so,
BAP
60's
-8an fuel line upgrade
MAFia
that should support that power.
additional mods
typical midpipe and catback
typical air intake (JLT or the K&N are good choices)
IRS brace
sticky tires
subframe connectors
idler pulley's
clutch upgrades/cooling mod
as far as the tbody, I would recommend a single blade.
Current Comp Orange: (Eaton) 10.80 @ 128mph, 3.31 gears and 28" tall tires. Stage 3 port and 2.76 upper only. Solid axle
Turbo: 723rwhp/689rwtq, 22# mustang dyno. track times to come
A modded FPDM is required with GT pump because GT pumps run with more current than stock Cobra pumps. Stock Cobra pumps will pull about 18A while GT pumps can pull 25A. Running GT pumps with a stock FPDM can cause the FPDM to go into thermal shutdown.
I would personally suggest dual FPDMs over a single modified FPDM for a few reasons. First, a dual FPDM system will be able to supply more current to the pumps. A Stage 2 modified FPDM is capable of delivering ~25A of current, while a stock FPDM can deliver about ~18A to each pump. In a nutshell, this means that you'll be able to support more horsepower with dual FPDMs than a single modded FPDM.
Next, if you are able to do the dual FPDM harness yourself, it can actually cost you much less to go duals. Thinking about the absolutely cheapest way to go duals, you only need one additional harness (wired with the factory harness; ~$30 new, less if found in a junk yard), a used FPDM ($40 or less), some wire (~$20), and a relay/plug combo (~$20). Not including a wire upgrade to the battery, since that would be a good idea with either a modded FPDM or dual FPDMs, going duals can run you less than $100. Even with all new parts and being more elaborate, my dual FPDM setup cost me ~$200. A deal on a Stage 2 FPDM is $235.
IMO, the only real advantage to a modded FPDM is ease of install.
and this setup would be a little over kill for someone trying to do it on a budget. 
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