We have to do a clutch install / service a clutch for my auto class and well...I decided might as well fix the cobra. Im just curious what I will need to know for this repair.
Having access to a life will make life much much easier for you. Other than that one of the starter bolts is a pain in the butt to get to the first time you try to remove it, having the right combination of extensions, wobble extensions, and u-joints will help and once you figure out that combination it's not all that difficult. One or two of the bolts on top of the transmission or bell housing (can't remember which) is a pain. The rest is pretty straight forward. If you don't have a head cooling mod, now is the time to install a LDC one while you have the transmission out.
once you have removed the exhaust, drive shaft, Shifter, starter, unhooked the clutch cable and trans harness. Insert a plug the tail shaft ( I have one like this Powerhouse: Universal Transmission Tailshaft Plug ) . Remove the trans cross member and lower the tail shaft to give you extra space to access the upper bolts. Remove the top two bolts first using a long extension and swivel than lift the trans back up and get the rest. The rest is strait forward.
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03 Cobra convertible. Stage 4 ported Eaton, ported TB and Plenum, 2.93 upper, 493rwhp, 456rwtq, Pypes xfm36 catted xpipe, Magnaflo cat back, Agent 47 SLA, MM FLSFC's, MM strut tower brace, MM 4 point road race roll bar, C&R radiator, Oil cooler in drivers fender,canton road race pan, Steeda TriAx Shifter, diff cooler, AFCO pro intercooler, seats and belts from Sube Sports
There are other versions of the head cooling mod, but this one is much easier to install compared to the others if you are already dropping the transmission. I did everything on my back with car on stands, I really wish I had a lift.
to get at that one starter bolt.(10mm?) can't remember... This isn't a fun job, especially on your back, but you can do it and there's good info here.
I use a couple of long extensions with a swivel. I put electrical tape on the swivel to keep it from flopping. You can remove the starter in a few minutes that way.
We have to do a clutch install / service a clutch for my auto class and well...I decided might as well fix the cobra. Im just curious what I will need to know for this repair.
those video's should help out a lot and all the other info...just have to wait to get her in the shop.
I think the throw-out bearing is messed up also. Are there any other parts besides the head cooling mod I should install before we complete this project?
I think the throw-out bearing is messed up also. Are there any other parts besides the head cooling mod I should install before we complete this project?
Depends on what clutch you are going with and what your budget is, and what your ultimate goal of the car is.
Replace the TOB with a FRPP one, don't use any other junky TOB. FRPP is must here.
Couple of things off my head:
1. Replace or at least resurface flywheel. $250 - $400 on replace.
2. New FRPP flywheel bolts ~$15
3. Stronger aftermarket TOB retainer sleeve. ~$120
4. 26 spline input shaft ~$300 w/ shims (These might be on a national backorder, go with a 26 spline clutch if you get this)
5. Pilot Bearing ~$20
6. Aftermarket Quad and Firewall adjuster ~$100
7. LDC Freeplay Mod ~$15
You can see there are quite a few things you can replace/upgrade while you are under there and have the transmission out.
What kind of clutch are you going with and what is your ultimate goal with the car? Are you going to be pushing a twinscrew/turbo later on, or are you happy with your current power levels and wish to remain there?
I use a couple of long extensions with a swivel. I put electrical tape on the swivel to keep it from flopping. You can remove the starter in a few minutes that way.
Yeah, I seem to remember about 5ft. worth of extensions and a swivel, not to bad though. I did mine off my back also.
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2.4 kb 16lbs., solid rear, yadda, yadda
make sure you confirm the torq specs ahead of time. I know I was watching one of those vids and some of the torq specs were wrong for our car.
the starter bolts, I use a 13mm swivel socket and 3/8" drive extensions and I use that to get all of them. no issues. the bottom 2 you get through the motor mount opening in the kmember. the hard one you get to above the motor mount location on the kmember and at an angle towards the intercooler pump.
the top 2 bolts for the bell housing I use a long extension that locks the swivel socket.
for the top 2 bolts on the tranny, I use a 36" long extension and then put my 6" or 12" extension on as well. getting to those helps if you lower the rear of the tranny(remove 4 13mm bolts for the tranny crossmember).
remember to remove the shifter handle before you begin.
if you do the cooling mod, make sure you fill the coolant prior to putting the clutch in. this will assure that there are no leaks on the back side of the heads. when doing the cooling mod, since the coolant is drained, it is a good idea at this time to either put a 160 degree thermostat in or drill a hole in the stock one. search and you will find info on this.
that is about it for my tips. I can go into a lot more detail with torq specs and certain processes I do, but if this is for your class, it is time for you to learn and try and figure things out if you get stuck on something.
Current Comp Orange: (Eaton) 10.80 @ 128mph, 3.31 gears and 28" tall tires. Stage 3 port and 2.76 upper only. Solid axle
Turbo: 723rwhp/689rwtq, 22# mustang dyno. track times to come
Having access to a life will make life much much easier for you. Other than that one of the starter bolts is a pain in the butt to get to the first time you try to remove it....
I do agree... Having access to a life will help you live through your life
sorry sassafras, pretty damn tired and that gave me a laugh.
Back on topic though, i have done 2 clutch installs and had the tranny in/out maybe 4- 5 times. It really isnt a bad install, but a lift will save you so much time. The starter is a PITA, and making sure the clutch input shaft and the alum. dowels on the trans front housing all fall into place can be a little challenging. Just keep on trying to get it all to slip in, and DONT ever let the trans hang barely on the input shaft. Make sure you get it pretty much all the way mated back up before you let it hang. (this is when a trans jack could also come in handy)
Good luck, you got it!
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69 mach 1
-351w .030 ovb, edelbrock carb + intake <-- old setup, new one is coming!
03 10th Ann. Cobra vert.
-CAI - Full Bassani exhaust - 2.8 Upper - SCT tune
Linear Mode
