2013 GT now takes 5w50??

SicShelby09

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You guys are assuming that a 50 grade lubricant is required because there are no piston squirters, assuming that a 50 grade is too viscous to pump through a squirter.

The truth is, the lack of squirters means the piston is going to be much hotter without a constant flow of oil cooling it down. Hotter oil around the piston means a lubricant with a higher high temp/high shear HT/HS is required. This is the viscosity of a lubricant at 300*F (150*C)

20 grade lubricants are in the 2.8 range (too light for road racing heat)

50 grade lubricants are in the 4.5-5.0 range - good for road racing (robust true synthetic 40 grades are as well)

That doesnt quite make sense seing as that people are saying the 13 GT500 does have the squirters. With that said, why does it still need the higher viscosity oil? Without the squirters, then by your theory it should need them no?
 

shadowstang03gt

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whats so hard to understand about this?

50 is a little extra cushion forhard core beating the crap out of a car, 20 is fine for everything else.
 

twistedneck

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there is an oil cooler on the new track pack, and on all the engines that have the 5W-50 oil. The 50W oil runs hotter for what ever reason than 5W-20. more viscosity, shear level 50W may need a cooler in these engines. Also along with the cooler the track pack has the boss radiator.
 
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SID297

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That doesnt quite make sense seing as that people are saying the 13 GT500 does have the squirters. With that said, why does it still need the higher viscosity oil? Without the squirters, then by your theory it should need them no?

Part of it is the need for a stronger film. The GT500 make 3.5X as much power as the first modular on bearing surfaces of the exact same dimensions. That translates to the oil having to maintain a film under much higher pressures.
 

UnleashedBeast

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That doesnt quite make sense seing as that people are saying the 13 GT500 does have the squirters. With that said, why does it still need the higher viscosity oil? Without the squirters, then by your theory it should need them no?

Don't take Ford's recommendation as gospel. They are assuming the car is going to be road raced all the time. If that were true, we wouldn't be able to run Amsoil ATM 10W-30 in the GT500 for street use with the 170* thermostat, and road raced with Amsoil AMO 10W-40 with the stock or 170* thermostat.

Ford also knows that their 5W-50 shears rapidly to a light grade 40 weight. That needs to be considered in this debate. Motorcraft 5W-50 is filled with viscosity improver polymers that shear rapidly, bringing the formulation back to it's native base stock performance.
 
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UnleashedBeast

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Pzoil ultra 5w-30 good enough for me. Never liked the idea of 20.....heck 30 is pushing.

The best example of big oil customer manipulation.

Pennzoil Platinum: Blended mixture of PAO (true synthetic) and hydrocracked (highly refined) petroleum.

Pennzoil Ultra: 100% hydrocracked petroleum.

Hydrocracking is cheaper than PAO, yet Ultra costs more.

Let that one bake your noodle for awhile.
 

cidsamuth

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whats so hard to understand about this?

50 is a little extra cushion forhard core beating the crap out of a car, 20 is fine for everything else.

What is so hard to understand about what we're looking for, big guy?

There is no REQUIREMENT to track the Track Pack GT. That means Ford is saying that 5w-50 is okay for normal driving too (required, in fact, for the Track Pack).

So, they are talking out of both sides of their collective, corporate mouths to say the regular 2013 GT "requires" 5w-20 but is mechanically identical (internally) to the 2013 Track Pack that "requires" 5w-50.

In my opinion, this confirms the CAFE theory. I suspect they expect to sell so few Track Pack cars (just like the more limited GT500s and Boss Mustangs), that the slight drop in MPG will have almost no effect on Ford's overall MPG . . . allowing the engineers to win this one over the bean counters. The bean counters continue to force the 5w-20 on the bulk of Mustang GTs.
 
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lukem80

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I could listen to this unleashedbeast guy talk all day.

ok I have a daily driven 2012 that I beat on occasionally on the interstate

what oil should I use? lol
 

lukem80

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i'm about 3 hours away from the gulf. its hot as hell down here yanks!

I think it got down to around 28 degrees last winter for about a week.. lol
 

UnleashedBeast

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I could listen to this unleashedbeast guy talk all day.

ok I have a daily driven 2012 that I beat on occasionally on the interstate

what oil should I use? lol

<--- Same question for me.

Here is a simple guide I sent to Vicious Jay, so I will share it with the masses. Please note this guide if for Amsoil only, due to their Signature Series lubricants using true synthetics. Other brands using hydrocracked petroleum will have different characteristics. This list will directly cross over to Royal Purple and Red Line.

Amsoil AZO 0W-30: Use this if you drive the car in very cold weather frequently, under 32*F, multiple starts per day in those temps. OK for summer use, street aggressive driving, and drag racing. This would be a good lubricant for northern driven cars when it's not stored during the winter months, driven year round. The perfect compromise lubricant for cold flow performance and warmer weather protection.

Amsoil ATM 10W-30: Use this if your car never/rarely is driven in temps under 32*F. Optimal choice for warm/hot weather climates when the car is driven hard on the street and drag racing. This is the perfect southern car cocktail when cold weather is not even a consideration.

Amsoil AMO 10W-40: Use this if your car is being used on a road course for extended sessions (20-30 minute sessions). This fluid is overkill for a street driven 5.0 Coyote and Roadrunner, but will protect the engine on a road course better than Motorcraft 5W-50.

Amsoil EaO11 oil filter: The only filter even close is a Royal Purple 20-820 (same filter). All others are sub par. The EaO17 (Royal Purple 20-500) is the smaller version, the EaO11 has greater capacity and filtration ability, yet same threads and seating area.


Amsoil MTG Transmission fluid
: The cheap crap Ford uses in the MT-82 must be removed! Requires only 3 quarts.

Preferred Customer - gets you dealer cost (25% off)
 
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UnleashedBeast

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Unleashed say we want to use Mobil 1, castrol or even fords oil what do we use then

Ford Motorcraft? No thank you!!! Bottled by Conoco Phillips, cheap cheap cheap!!! Their 5W-20/30 returns good UOAs, but we aren't talking about grocery getters here either.

If I had to chose something from that lineup, the only sacrifice I would make to get by in a pinch would be.....

Mobil 1 10W-30 Extended Performance - hot weather (with a 15,000 mile protection guarantee, it must still be PAO)

Mobil 1 0W-30 - cold weather (now is hydrocracked petroleum)

Castrol 0W-30 - all temps (not as good as it was in 2004-2005 during the "German Green Castrol" days)

Mobil 1 0W-40 - road racing (change after every long session event, shears rapidly)

Please let me say that these are sacrifices I still refuse to take. It's to easy for me to order Amsoil online and have it two days later. The performance and protection difference is worth the wait for me. I don't have to worry about shearing and changing frequently, etc. Not to mention dealer cost for anyone.

Other great options are below (that I would use)

Royal Purple HPS or XPR (can't find in stores, must order online - XPR is overpriced IMHO compared to Amsoil Dominator)
 
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Graboid

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Jess now I feel bad for the multiple rides I have beat the hell out of and put hundred of thousands of miles on poor old Dino oil lol. And I thought I splurged :). 5quarts for $27 is pushing my nerves 10+ for a quart just has not been proving to me as being worth it(come to think about it neither has the $7 quart stuff just makes me feel better). I mean maybe if you were pushing the interval or something but how many motors do you know that have been lost due to using a cheaper oil? I personally have never seen any motor that was on a regular change interval lost due to the oil breaking down. I don't know though I guess you could argue the piston being thrown through the side of the block in that one fox body due to bad oil and not the 250 shot while we were running 150mph lol.


Eta: but thanks for the info I will look into that and maybe save a few bucks next time.
 
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