got my full tilt bushing kit!!!

[SonicBeast]

i just recently bought a cobra and have been reading about the awesome effects the full tilt bushing kit has on these cars. after a little research i found out theyre located 5 mins from me so i went and picked up the ft5000 kit with standard bumpsteer. i have to say the product looks excellent. everything is packaged and labeled very well and the directions look more than thorough. im doing the install myself so bruce helped me out by getting my bumpsteer in a good place to start and answered a whole shit ton of questions for me so big thanks to him. cant wait to get it in and have my mm flsfc welded in.
i read somewhere that i should replace the fuel filter while the subframes out, what one should i use? is there anything else i should do at this time. thanks in advance

 

[10thSVT_03]

Congrats! Fuel filter I would replace with the stock style

 

[Grimster]

they sure made the fuel filter fun to change in these cars....

 

[black 10th vert]

You are lucky to have Bruce close by in case you run into problems with your install (and also to borrow the tools). You will love the car once it's done - it makes a world of difference!

 

[P49Y-CY]

congrats! you will enjoy the noticeable difference, no doubt :rockon:

 

[SonicBeast]

Thanks guys, and yea I couldn't believe how convenient that worked out. he's a real helpful guy

 

[SonicBeast]

I got everything unhooked and ready to drop out tomorrow when I have an extra set of hands. Pretty straight forward so far if u read and watch his videos

 

[earico]

I put the exact same thing in mine. You are going to love it.

3 things for you:

1) Make sure you put the larger insert for the subframe in the FRONT bushings. There are 4 subframe bushings. The larger diameter metal insert goes in the front for the 14mm bolts.

2) Be sure to use cutting oil when drilling for the oil fittings.

3) You have to remove the knuckle (spindle) from the upper and lower control arms to install this kit. So there is no need to remove the axle nut or press out the tie-rod end. Just leave the axle and tie-rod attached to the knuckle. Mark the top control arm bolt (camber bolt) before removing. Then put it back where it was on the reinstall. Your alignment will be where it was before.

 

[SonicBeast]

I got everything out and disassembled this week and got the new subframe bushings in, gonna drill and tap the grease fittings tomorrow and try and get everything put back together . So far tho the process has been real simple and I would encourage anyone who is worried about the install of this kit to go ahead and pull the trigger. If you have a good set of tools, decent mechanical sense and the space it's easy. Watch the videos and read the directions and everything's explained.

 

[MBoyle1]

Great kit!! Installed mine last winter &love it!!

 

[SlowSVT]

Do yourself a favor and find a larger fuel filter (10 micron) that won't need replacement or cleaning as often and will have less pressure drop thru the media.

Kinsler AN6 Inline Pressure Fuel Injection Filter - Speedway Motors, America's Oldest Speed Shop

 

[SonicBeast]

Will that pump bolt right in? Or do I need to upsize the lines, sorry I have t really looked at the stock one yet

 

[Bruha]

Did mine last year and love it!! Best mod period!

 

[SonicBeast]

What fuel filter should I go with guys? I was thinking Id go to the dealership and get a stock one, will they have it? Or do the rest of you recommend an upgraded one like the kinsler one recommended above? I don't want to change the lines unless you guys recommend it. The cars putting down 507/489 to the wheels and I'm installing a bap and mafia and getting A retune incase that changes the recommendation. Thanks in advance I just want to get a few more opinions. Want the car to be safe

 

[SonicBeast]

So I got the IRS reassambled and went to grease the lca's with my new cheapass autozone grease gun and the damn thing would not come off the fitting after I filled it. We were able to get it off but it pulled the fitting out a thread or two on one side and now it's cockeyed and not facing the right direction. It's tight in there still so I loaded it with permanent thread locker and I'm hoping it stays put. As I read more of the ftbr paperwork it says to grease every oil change :0 if that fittings not angled right it's gonna be a pain in the ass to grease I'm guessing and may loosen up. What would u guys recommend? Do they make a larger grease fitting that I could drill and tap the whole out to?

 

[earico]

Red loctite should be on all the grease fittings.

I am sure you can find a bigger fitting and tap.

Or you could remove the A-Arm, degrease it, JB weld the old hole and then retap a new spot 1/2" over from the old one.

 

[Cobra-21]

Did your grease gun hang on all the fittings or just that one? I'd avoid going bigger in the same hole. Bruce went with the size he did because he felt it wouldn't weaken the arm, but did not want to go any bigger. Do you think the threads are bunged up, or can you straighten it back to where it needs to be?

 

[SonicBeast]

threads are boogered im pretty sure, i couldnt push it back down on the high side with my hand but i didnt wanna try and beat it in and make it worse, its tight in there. bruce seemed to think if it was tight it shouldnt go anywhere i just thought id see if anyone else had anything similar happen. the welding up the original hole and making a new one sounds doable to fix the problem, but would that weaken the arm?

 

[SonicBeast]

i can take a picture if anyone thinks it would help

 

[ac427cobra]

Did your grease gun hang on all the fittings or just that one? I'd avoid going bigger in the same hole. Bruce went with the size he did because he felt it wouldn't weaken the arm, but did not want to go any bigger. Do you think the threads are bunged up, or can you straighten it back to where it needs to be?

Sean called me and told me it was the LCA, not the UCA so I told him he could tap that out 1/8" pipe and change that one fitting to an 1/8" pipe grease fitting. Not a biggie.

Now the UCA is a different story. That would require a TIG weld and retap.

threads are boogered im pretty sure, i couldnt push it back down on the high side with my hand but i didnt wanna try and beat it in and make it worse, its tight in there. bruce seemed to think if it was tight it shouldnt go anywhere i just thought id see if anyone else had anything similar happen. the welding up the original hole and making a new one sounds doable to fix the problem, but would that weaken the arm?

Sean:

You should get one of those fittings for the end of your grease gun that slips over the top of the fitting from the side and that will eliminate the lock-up on the fitting. Or you could simply wait for the pressure to dissipate before trying to pull the gun off.

Looking forward to hearing your review on the change of your car!

:thumbsup::coolman::beer: