HELP! Need tips on re-installing IRS Differential

[351stang]

Hey guys,

I'm in the process of reinstalling my 2004 Cobra Differential after installing the Ford Racing Cover, plus front/rear urethane Differential bushings. I took the car apart about 12 months ago and am just getting it back together due to work/family stuff.

Details:

1. IRS Subframe is in the car. Exhaust, half shafts, front diff cross member, & differential are out.
2. Car is on jackstands. Using floor jack to lift diff.

Problem:

1. The differential gets about 95% up in position to get the rear bolts in and then hits the exhaust hangers.
2. The top bolt hole in the cover is approximately at the bottom bolt hole in the rear differential mount.
3. Made multiple attempts but can't seem to get it into position without killing myself.
4. I'm going up with it relatively level since I'm balancing it on the jack.

Questions

1. Do you have any "pro tips" to get this bastard lined up?
2. Please tell me that I don't have to fish it past the hangers at an exaggerated angle. I'm not sure how I'm going to accomplish this solo

I'd like to get it in tomorrow or Tuesday, so your quick responses would be greatly appreciated.

 

[joshcarp81]

I did mine by myself.
it has to go in at a weird angle. I do remember that much.
so yes you can do it by yourself.

 

[P49Y-CY]

Is your front crossbrace removed? That helps if I remember correctly. While it is difficult to do on your back, I have done it several times solo and i can recall it beating me up every time. You will need to angle it and muscle it up there for sure. Best of luck with it -

 

[351stang]

Angle the pinion flange down or up? Yes the front brace is removed.

 

[P49Y-CY]

to be honest i forget, other than knowing i would just desperately try any way to get it up there while laying under it lol, sorry. lots of cursing involved

i'd say try it pinion down to start with, but you will def have to tilt it sideways and all around to clear the exhaust hangers, etc, all the while moving it around to clear until it gets up in there. its a bitch but just keep at it - that's all i got, man sorry

 

[Rich'sTRsvt]

Make sure you have the rear mount oriented the right way, if it is the wrong way it moves the diff 1/4 inch off of lining up with the front mounts.

 

[BlksvtCobra01]

Is your front crossbrace removed? That helps if I remember correctly. While it is difficult to do on your back, I have done it several times solo and i can recall it beating me up every time. You will need to angle it and muscle it up there for sure. Best of luck with it -

This mine fought me on my back in the gatage but it's doable.

 

[BlksvtCobra01]

Is your front crossbrace removed? That helps if I remember correctly. While it is difficult to do on your back, I have done it several times solo and i can recall it beating me up every time. You will need to angle it and muscle it up there for sure. Best of luck with it -

This mine fought me on my back in the garage but it's doable.

 

[hotcobra03]

With front cross bar off.I put rear mount on first than move forward to fit 2 front of diff..

I take mufflers off for room to work..

I bring bottom control bolt back as far as I need to get cross bar back in

 

[351stang]

It is in!

Sorry for the late follow up, but I got the differential in. The initial difficulty was from installing the rear differential mount upside down due to me not paying attention and waiting several months to put it back together.

Tips that I learned:
1. A transmission floor jack with pivoting adjustment is extremely helpful for a solo install LINK (it is also awesome for T-56 installation solo)
2. There are 3 major interference points: 1. exhaust hangers 2. rear tie rod brackets 3. rear differential mount
3. You need to have about a 25 degree downward angle on the pinion flange (front down) to clear the rear tie rod brackets
4. At the same time, you need to rotate the differential about 45 degrees towards the passenger side to clear the exhaust hangers and not get hung up on the rear differential mount.
5. This is probably exaggerated by the Ford Racing diff cover thickness.
6. Put the rear bolts in before you get it in final position.
7. If I do this again, I'm going to follow some forum member's advice and drop the whole IRS.

Anyway, thanks for the help. I appreciate having fellow Terminators to share info with. :thumbsup:

 

[SnakeBit]

I'd like to add an 8th tip to your list.

8. Before dismantling anything, get a paint pen and mark it up. An arrow for "UP" or "FRONT", dots and dashes for pairing up adjacent parts and alignment. Marking it before you remove it makes it much easier when putting it back together, especially after some time has passed.

 

[351stang]

Everything is back together, but there is a slight drip from the damn pinion seal. I should have replaced it when I had the chance. It is just going to leak for awhile.

 

[P49Y-CY]

Congrats on getting it back together. :beer:

Pinion seal is something you can do with the diff in the car if it gets too bad