How much for a short block rebuild? Other options?

[joeg215]

Pretty much all signs are pointing towards a spun bearing. Knocking sound when revving, metallic mirroring in the oil, oil burning, and low oil level (possible cause and totally my fault, lesson learned :bash.

From my research (Im not very mechanically inclined so bear with me), it seems that I need to either replace the short block or rebuild it. Im planning on keeping the power level stock so I assume just a rebuild will be the best option.

My question : How much am I looking at as far as the short block rebuild goes, parts and labor? Im sure prices vary but a ballpark figure would be great.

Any other suggestions? Maybe a place near Miami I can take it too? I know these guys specialize in mustangs, obviously :lol1: Mustang Specialties - Home

If you need more info just let me know.

Thanks guys.

 

[soccerman002]

I know you're looking for answers here, but why not just give them (Mustang Specialties) a call.

 

[joeg215]

Well yeah I am, but I posted here just to make sure I'm on the right track and if maybe someone has gone there and has feedback.

 

[SVECobraR]

I just had to replace my engine, i bought a 04 mach 1 motor to replace it with, and i did all the labor myself and it still cost me 3.5k. Given i probably bought some stuff i didn't need but alot of the little things add up quite quickly.

 

[joeg215]

I was quoted $4500. Is this right?

 

[01yellercobra]

I was quoted $4500. Is this right?

What does it include?

 

[Brutal Metal]

I was quoted $4500. Is this right?

That's a good price if tear down, parts,machine work,rebuild and reinstall is included!

 

[SVECobraR]

You might want to look for a used engine from someone reputable and just put that in there, that way you are only looking at R&I.

 

[01yellercobra]

If you can do your own removal and installation it might be worth looking in to the Aluminator. I think the short block is about $3500 and the complete motor is $6200. More then what you'll be charged, but you get a brand new motor top to bottom with much better internals.

 

[ShadesofGrey]

Open up the oil pan first. Look at the crank and see how damaged it is. See what happened and determine if its not too bad then you could buy new bearings, have the crank cleaned up, reinstall and be good to go. Its not the best option but if you just crushed the bearing and didnt spin them, then you may have some hope of a decent fix until you can afford a full rebuild. Now if you really did spin them then yes a rebuild is imminent. But you could have crushed them, so my advice is open the oil pan and take a look.

 

[mustanginky]

i estimate i built my 2v for $4000 or so, forged pistons/rods bought on here new but much cheaper than what i would have bought from a retailer for. gaskets/bolts/machine work are expensive.
that being said, if you have to pull the motor and not just replace a bearing, then might as well spend a little money and get it "built"

 

[Brutal Metal]

Open up the oil pan first. Look at the crank and see how damaged it is. See what happened and determine if its not too bad then you could buy new bearings, have the crank cleaned up, reinstall and be good to go. Its not the best option but if you just crushed the bearing and didnt spin them, then you may have some hope of a decent fix until you can afford a full rebuild. Now if you really did spin them then yes a rebuild is imminent. But you could have crushed them, so my advice is open the oil pan and take a look.

Motor still has to be pulled or K-Member dropped to take that oil pan off

 

[joeg215]

That's a good price if tear down, parts,machine work,rebuild and reinstall is included!

Yeah it was pretty much everything included as far as I can tell.

If you can do your own removal and installation it might be worth looking in to the Aluminator. I think the short block is about $3500 and the complete motor is $6200. More then what you'll be charged, but you get a brand new motor top to bottom with much better internals.

I understand your point but Its not really in my budget to buy a whole new motor if I dont have to, $6200 would actually be more than I paid for the whole car more than a year ago. The shortblock is definitely an option though.

Thank you all for your replies, Im taking into consideration what you guys are saying.

From what Ive been reading, MMR is hit or miss but whats your take on the 600 shortblock that they sell? MMR 4

 

[01yellercobra]

From what Ive been reading, MMR is hit or miss but whats your take on the 600 shortblock that they sell? MMR 4

I'd stay away from MMR personally.

 

[97desertCobra]

Yeah it was pretty much everything included as far as I can tell.



I understand your point but Its not really in my budget to buy a whole new motor if I dont have to, $6200 would actually be more than I paid for the whole car more than a year ago. The shortblock is definitely an option though.

Thank you all for your replies, Im taking into consideration what you guys are saying.

From what Ive been reading, MMR is hit or miss but whats your take on the 600 shortblock that they sell? MMR 4

By the time you have somone machine your heads and replace the valve springs and possibly some other valvetrain components based on wear AND possibly new chains and tensioners you are looking at over 6200 with parts and labor + price of short block. The long block option is really the bang for the buck IMO. Just throw on your intake and GO! Only really labor cost would be to pull the existing engine and replace with the Aluminator.

 

[ShadesofGrey]

hmm

Motor still has to be pulled or K-Member dropped to take that oil pan off

I know.