Making an aluminum discharge pipe for my Vortech Questions

[busta]

Hey all,

I'm looking to replace the crappy plastic discharge pipe for my '94 Cobra with a Vortech V-2. I have a 3" aluminum pipe w/ a 22* bend. It's maybe 2" too long and I need to cut the pipe a bit short and make some slight adjustments. What is your tool of preference for working with aluminum? Hacksaw? Dremel? Any input would be greatly appreciated!

thank you

 

[Blown_By_You]

Bandsaw. Hacksaw. Cutting wheel. Chop saw. Will need deburring with a sander though

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[busta]

Bandsaw. Hacksaw. Cutting wheel. Chop saw. Will need deburring with a sander though

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Sounds good - no issues there. I'll try the hacksaw and take my time.

 

[WhiteFaleen2001]

There is a great write up on another forum that I used to create mine:
http://www.moddedmustangs.com/forum...-v3-treadstone-trv25-build-3.html#post4366729

parts:
1 Aluminum Bend
3 4" T-Bolt Clamp
1 3.5" T-Bolt Clamp
1 45* Elbow
1 90* Reducer Elbow
1 Vacuum Sensor Adapter Kit
You will also need a 4" inlet airfilter. I had an extra laying around (from when I made a "JLT" intake back when I was NA) that worked perfect

I had to do some additional work on my tube as I am running an aftercooler. Had to have a friend weld a small aluminum tube to the discharge tube so I could use my bypass valve. Also had to cut away part of the inner fender to allow for the discharge tube to fit (the water lines of the aftercooler got in the way, by raising the discharge tube up a bit, which is why I had to cut). If I had known that would be an issue prior, I probably would have cut the 4" aluminum pipe differently to better accommodate the aftercooler lines.

 

[busta]

Thanks for the info but that doesn't apply to what I'm doing. Mine is a lot more simple! I'm replacing the plastic coupler pipe between the blower discharge and throttle body. No intercooler/aftercooler.

 

[Helomech74]

I use a chop saw for all my tubing. Makes a perfectly straight cut and takes no time to make the cut.

 

[Blown_By_You]

There is a great write up on another forum that I used to create mine:
http://www.moddedmustangs.com/forum...-v3-treadstone-trv25-build-3.html#post4366729

parts:
1 Aluminum Bend
3 4" T-Bolt Clamp
1 3.5" T-Bolt Clamp
1 45* Elbow
1 90* Reducer Elbow
1 Vacuum Sensor Adapter Kit
You will also need a 4" inlet airfilter. I had an extra laying around (from when I made a "JLT" intake back when I was NA) that worked perfect

I had to do some additional work on my tube as I am running an aftercooler. Had to have a friend weld a small aluminum tube to the discharge tube so I could use my bypass valve. Also had to cut away part of the inner fender to allow for the discharge tube to fit (the water lines of the aftercooler got in the way, by raising the discharge tube up a bit, which is why I had to cut). If I had known that would be an issue prior, I probably would have cut the 4" aluminum pipe differently to better accommodate the aftercooler lines.

You would want rubber, not silicone couplers on the powerpipe... But that's not what this is about.

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[Helomech74]

You would want rubber, not silicone couplers on the powerpipe... But that's not what this is about.

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Why is that? I've been using silicone for my powerpipes for as long as I can remember with zero issues.

 

[Blown_By_You]

Why is that? I've been using silicone for my powerpipes for as long as I can remember with zero issues.

Silicone collapses under enough vacuum. Rubber does not, hence why You'll see most intake like powerpipes use rubber only.

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[Helomech74]

Silicone collapses under enough vacuum. Rubber does not, hence why You'll see most intake like powerpipes use rubber only.

I can see that happening if you use cheap silicone elbows or couplers. I only use reinforced multi-ply stuff, it hasn't collapsed even when used in 30+psi environments.