My "new" toy.

Goose17

I have a major ego, and need attention.
Established Member
Joined
May 4, 2012
Messages
2,999
Location
DFW
Today was the maiden voyage... I am trying to get the computer happy so I can have the vehicle inspected. The car came with old gas and had a code: P0300 "Random Misfire." After a long battle, I got the old gas out and new stuff in and cleared the code. This put all of the sensors in "Not Ready" mode and a drive-cycle was needed to reset the sensors. I called my local inspection place and they said I could pop-in periodically during the drive to see which sensors are up/down. I printed off the drive-cycle instructions and headed out to do the long laundry list of items. I hit the inspection place a few times during the drive and each time was a big wait to get in to read the sensors status again. After about 15 miles and a couple hours, I'm back to where I started again. I've got the random misfire code again. The shop owner said he has seen cars that sat for a long time not pass inspection until you go drive them quite a bit. I'm trying to minimize the mileage though. My plan now is to change the plugs and maybe hit the Ford dealer to clean the injectors.

In the mean time, most of my driving today was hitting specific targets, like 0-45 at 1/2 throttle, stop, rinse, repeat x3. After the last check when it wasn't working, I did a little "spirited" driving on the way home. My low-seat time review:

My Shelby is 750 hp at the motor and is a hoot! Comparing it to the 00R, it's soft/numb/comfy. In the 00R, you feel the engine shaking the car, you hear every pebble the sticky tires throw into the wheel wells (no insulation) and you feel the incredibly beefy suspension beneath you. The side-exhaust with the windows open is a sound unlike anything I've heard before. It's lovely. The 00R is a totally different experience. It screams "RACECAR!!!!" The Shelby is docile until boost and then it's a smooth ride to ludicrous speed.

Many on the Terminator board claim they love the 03/04 because of how raw it is compared to the GT500. The 00R makes my Terminator feel like a civic! The R is purpose-built and there is no mistaking what that purpose is.

Out on the town sans splitter. It was off for polishing yesterday and haven't put it back on yet:

c319953fb38b875346ac04a2af09424a_zps78pftmsg.jpg
 

HISSMAN

The Great Bearded One
Super Moderator
Joined
May 21, 2003
Messages
25,633
Location
WV
Today was the maiden voyage... I am trying to get the computer happy so I can have the vehicle inspected. The car came with old gas and had a code: P0300 "Random Misfire." After a long battle, I got the old gas out and new stuff in and cleared the code. This put all of the sensors in "Not Ready" mode and a drive-cycle was needed to reset the sensors. I called my local inspection place and they said I could pop-in periodically during the drive to see which sensors are up/down. I printed off the drive-cycle instructions and headed out to do the long laundry list of items. I hit the inspection place a few times during the drive and each time was a big wait to get in to read the sensors status again. After about 15 miles and a couple hours, I'm back to where I started again. I've got the random misfire code again. The shop owner said he has seen cars that sat for a long time not pass inspection until you go drive them quite a bit. I'm trying to minimize the mileage though. My plan now is to change the plugs and maybe hit the Ford dealer to clean the injectors.

In the mean time, most of my driving today was hitting specific targets, like 0-45 at 1/2 throttle, stop, rinse, repeat x3. After the last check when it wasn't working, I did a little "spirited" driving on the way home. My low-seat time review:

My Shelby is 750 hp at the motor and is a hoot! Comparing it to the 00R, it's soft/numb/comfy. In the 00R, you feel the engine shaking the car, you hear every pebble the sticky tires throw into the wheel wells (no insulation) and you feel the incredibly beefy suspension beneath you. The side-exhaust with the windows open is a sound unlike anything I've heard before. It's lovely. The 00R is a totally different experience. It screams "RACECAR!!!!" The Shelby is docile until boost and then it's a smooth ride to ludicrous speed.

Many on the Terminator board claim they love the 03/04 because of how raw it is compared to the GT500. The 00R makes my Terminator feel like a civic! The R is purpose-built and there is no mistaking what that purpose is.

Out on the town sans splitter. It was off for polishing yesterday and haven't put it back on yet:

c319953fb38b875346ac04a2af09424a_zps78pftmsg.jpg

That car gives me chills.
 

Goose17

I have a major ego, and need attention.
Established Member
Joined
May 4, 2012
Messages
2,999
Location
DFW
That car gives me chills.

Thank you. (Me too!)

This afternoon, I swapped the plugs to eliminate possibilities causing the misfire. I also put a bunch of Seafoam in the tank. I called the Ford dealer to ask what they show for plug gap in their system. I told the lady to please look up a "2000 Cobra R." She informed me that they only have Ford vehicles in their computer to which I replied that a Cobra R IS a Ford. She said she will look it up and call me back. I never heard from her, so I just matched the gap that the OEM plugs had.

I will say this though, the 5.4 in this car is waaaay easier to work on without the supercharger/intake covering stuff up.

Tomorrow, I will polish the splitter and reattach it as well as take another attempt at getting the sensors ready for inspection.

ea7be051e8b778f6fe24467c019011bd_zpsuyrnang5.jpg


c614474e24a3adacbf703b9c865df2f2_zps92vt0d4x.jpg
 

13COBRA

Resident Ford Dealer
Established Member
Premium Member
Single Barrel Sirs
Joined
Jun 4, 2012
Messages
22,497
Location
Missouri
Beautiful car and garage.

Who the **** is this clown?

fff.png
 

flattrack53

Well-Known Member
Established Member
Joined
Nov 19, 2008
Messages
3,585
Location
Maryland
You should add ac427cobra's intake and MAF to your car. It will eliminate the backfire of the exhaust and pick up a substantial amount of power.
 

DAVESVT2000

Well-Known Member
Established Member
Joined
Mar 2, 2002
Messages
6,300
Location
Central Mass.
Also, I believe plug gap and other info is in the FAQ sticky above.

I've had to drive mine up to 75 miles before to get the codes to clear, after it had sat for a long winter.
 

Goose17

I have a major ego, and need attention.
Established Member
Joined
May 4, 2012
Messages
2,999
Location
DFW
Beautiful car and garage.

Who the **** is this clown?

View attachment 73206

Not sure what you are trying to say...?

You should add ac427cobra's intake and MAF to your car. It will eliminate the backfire of the exhaust and pick up a substantial amount of power.

I'm sure there are quite a few mods that would make this car even more awesome, but I plan to keep the car stock under the hood.

Also, I believe plug gap and other info is in the FAQ sticky above.

I've had to drive mine up to 75 miles before to get the codes to clear, after it had sat for a long winter.

I sped read the FAQ's and found what type of plugs to use, but not the gap. I just matched the gap of the OEM plugs which looked to be about .040. I guess I could call SVT. They will know the answer.
 

tomshep

Another R Addict
Established Member
Joined
Feb 9, 2003
Messages
4,375
Location
Republic of Texas
+1.

I would drive it more before getting too involved with changing parts. It has such low miles, I can't imagine parts not functioning properly. Burn a tank of gas through it and see if it improves.

Tom
 

13COBRA

Resident Ford Dealer
Established Member
Premium Member
Single Barrel Sirs
Joined
Jun 4, 2012
Messages
22,497
Location
Missouri
Not sure what you are trying to say...?

I'm all but positive he was being sarcastic.

I love the R's. My dad's had 3 different ones.

I'd love nothing more than to have a 93, 95 and 00 in my garage.
 

Goose17

I have a major ego, and need attention.
Established Member
Joined
May 4, 2012
Messages
2,999
Location
DFW
So, after yesterday's failed attempt at passing inspection due to the misfire code popping back up and sensors not ready, I swapped the plugs (kept the originals since I don't think it was a spark issue). I also dumped quite a bit of Seafoam into the tank. I assumed the misfire was caused by injector issues from the old gas, but I didn't want to keep repeating the "drive-cycle," so I changed the plugs too just to cover my bases. This morning, I cleared the misfire code one more time with the handheld that Catmonkey sent me (Thanks again John!). I then hit the road with "drive-cycle" instructions in hand. It involves a bunch of specific requirements... Idle for 15 seconds, accelerate to 45 mph using 1/2 throttle 4 times, accelerate to 65 then close the throttle and decelerate to 45 without using brakes - repeat 3 more times, cruise at 45 mph for 10 minutes, etc, etc, etc! Normal driving around town eventually resets all of the monitors, but I was interested in getting them ready for inspection with the least amount of miles screwing around. After a monotonous drive, I hit the inspection station to check the status of the sensors. All but one were back-up and running. The inspector said it will pass with 1 "not ready,' so it was time... I did the lights/horn/accel/stop test for him and then backed it into the test slot. I felt like a nervous parent waiting on a report for my misbehaving kid, but I got the good news... IT PASSED! Two days and 45 miles later, I can now register the car and pay more money (taxes).

On the way home, I did a little burst in 2nd/3rd. I didn't want to get too crazy since I was driving around town with a Montana vanity plate sans registration stickers.

From this morning:

Pulled in and inspector used his hand-held scanner to confirm the car was ready to be tested:

IMG_4214_zpsdhitjc5u.jpg


After the lights/horn/accel/stop test, I backed it in to be analyzed:

IMG_4217_zpsyzhi05b2.jpg


I think I peed a little when the "passed" paper printed out!

IMG_4223_zpswkcimtb6.jpg


During the drive back to the bat cave:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i71vYaoedzY
 

filthymcnasty

Member
Established Member
Joined
May 27, 2004
Messages
453
Location
Somewhere
Wish I would have seen this sooner.

You can statically activate the fuel pump, hook up a small Schrader valve tool to the fuel rail in the engine compartment and drain the tank in 10 minutes. Very simple process and very clean.

I do this all the time with my 89, 95, Lightning, Cobras, etc.

Anyway, if you'd like I'll post up the directions.

Nice stable!
 

geoffmt

Well-Known Member
Established Member
Premium Member
Joined
Jul 30, 2015
Messages
2,024
Location
billings, mt
Amazing car! Where in middle Montana did it come from? That's almost my neighborhood and I wasn't aware of any 00r in the area. And awesome stable of cars, My hat is off to you
 

Goose17

I have a major ego, and need attention.
Established Member
Joined
May 4, 2012
Messages
2,999
Location
DFW
Wish I would have seen this sooner.

You can statically activate the fuel pump, hook up a small Schrader valve tool to the fuel rail in the engine compartment and drain the tank in 10 minutes. Very simple process and very clean.

I do this all the time with my 89, 95, Lightning, Cobras, etc.

Anyway, if you'd like I'll post up the directions.

Nice stable!

Please post the info! I did hook up a tube to the Schrader valve (eventually), but I kept cycling the key to pressurize the rail. I wasn't sure how to Hotwire the pump and I didn't want to go exploring on the R. I had to put a bunch of gas in it for the drive-cycle and I will most likely try to get a good portion of it out.

Amazing car! Where in middle Montana did it come from? That's almost my neighborhood and I wasn't aware of any 00r in the area. And awesome stable of cars, My hat is off to you

Stevensville. Older guy that had it for about 6 years and drove it 500 miles to get ice cream with his grand son. He moved to the area not too long ago.
 

Goose17

I have a major ego, and need attention.
Established Member
Joined
May 4, 2012
Messages
2,999
Location
DFW
I spent the full day giving the R some love. This morning was devoted to getting the R to pass inspection. That victory made me want to break out into my Ed Grimly dance.

The rest of the day involved another coat of Argos (Liquid Glass Legend version 2.0) and then removing the wheels for some cleaning. I cleaned the inside of the wheels, hit them with traditional Liquid Glass and then went to town cleaning everything I could reach in the wheel well. One big downside to sticky tires is they grab every freak'n pebble and toss them into the wheel wells. After vibrating a bunch loose with my orbital polisher and getting a bunch more when I cleaned the wells, I have a BUNCH of little rocks in my garage. The suspension (what I could reach), the brakes, brake ducts, and wheels are now as clean as they could be.

Pics:

Still haven't polished the splitter (tomorrow).

image_zpstziv4zox.jpg


Right/rear:

image_zpsinhmzjgp.jpg


Insides are clean!

image_zps2y8gnxng.jpg


Left front. You can see the brake cooling duct that goes to the carbon fiber cooling surround (not seen):

image_zps0y8ec2wi.jpg


Right front:

image_zpsvh9gdc3t.jpg


Mission complete!

image_zpsaelbpvvj.jpg
 

filthymcnasty

Member
Established Member
Joined
May 27, 2004
Messages
453
Location
Somewhere
Goose,

Here's the skinny on how to easily pump the fuel out (also works on 03-04 Cobras):

1) Locate the fuel pump driver module (really easy on the 2000 Rs as they don't have any carpeting on the sides of the trunk). It's bolted inside the trunk on the left rear of the wheel well. UNPLUG the connector and power up the Brown/pink wire and ground the Red/black wires on the plug. I use a second battery with wire leads to power and ground the connector (leave the negative side disconnected until you are ready to pump). Or you can run reaaaaalllly long wires from the trunk to the battery in the engine compartment.

2) Get a schrader valve tool like yonder....

STA74852_zpsahxflcb7.gif


...and hook some fuel line long enough to reach from the schrader valve tool you will screw onto the fuel rail schrader valve to a fuel jug on the floor.

3) Hook up the negative side to whatever power source you choose and voila, instant pumpage. Don't go to far because it fills the jug faster than you think!
 

Goose17

I have a major ego, and need attention.
Established Member
Joined
May 4, 2012
Messages
2,999
Location
DFW
Goose,

Here's the skinny on how to easily pump the fuel out (also works on 03-04 Cobras):

1) Locate the fuel pump driver module (really easy on the 2000 Rs as they don't have any carpeting on the sides of the trunk). It's bolted inside the trunk on the left rear of the wheel well. UNPLUG the connector and power up the Brown/pink wire and ground the Red/black wires on the plug. I use a second battery with wire leads to power and ground the connector (leave the negative side disconnected until you are ready to pump). Or you can run reaaaaalllly long wires from the trunk to the battery in the engine compartment.

2) Get a schrader valve tool like yonder....

STA74852_zpsahxflcb7.gif




...and hook some fuel line long enough to reach from the schrader valve tool you will screw onto the fuel rail schrader valve to a fuel jug on the floor.

3) Hook up the negative side to whatever power source you choose and voila, instant pumpage. Don't go to far because it fills the jug faster than you think!

Absolutely FANTASTIC! I will use this when I need to get some of the gas out of the tank. I had to fill the tank to 3/4's for the drive cycle. That gas will eventually go bad since it will take me a long time to burn through it. I'll pump it out and put it in one of the other cars.

Thanks for posting the info!
 

Users who are viewing this thread



Top