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The complete "EGR Delete" How To

Discussion in 'How-To' started by TORQJNKY, Jan 18, 2009.

  1. TORQJNKY

    TORQJNKY Authorized Vendor Authorized Vendor

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    After looking at about 10-15 different threads about deleting the EGR and finally figuring everything out, I decided to put together this "EGR Delete" How To so the next guy doesn't have to do as much research.

    All this is good for is cleaning up your engine compartment and getting the birds nest off the side of the blower. It will not improve or degrade performance. You will also need to have your EGR turned off in your tune to prevent codes from being thrown.
    ________________________________________________________________

    Step 1: Remove the EGR tube from the EGR Valve to the header, plug the header with a cap and get a block off plate for the blower. Block off plate and header tube cap can be purchased from just about any of the reputable performance parts stores (Lethal Performance, D'Agostino Racing, Tousley Ford etc...)

    Here is the header tube cap.

    [​IMG]

    Here is the EGR Block Off Plate.

    [​IMG]

    Step 2: Remove the EGR Valve off the back of the blower, EGR transducer, Boost Dump Valve, and the EGR Vacuum Regulator Solenoid. Also get rid of the black bracket bolted to the side of the blower. You can either tuck the electrical connectors associated with these modules or snip them off and save the connectors if you ever want/need to reinstall everything.

    Here is all the stuff you end up with.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Step 3: Now you will reuse and modify the factory vaccum and boost lines you pulled off or you can buy new lines at any parts store along with the rubber fittings. I was able to modify most of my lines.

    How to route the new boost and vacuum lines for Whipple:

    [​IMG]

    How to route the new boost and vacuum lines for Eaton:

    [​IMG]

    1) The bottom port, (Boost Port), on the Whipple/Eaton goes to the top port on the Boost Bypass Accuator Valve, the FRPS, and boost gauge. I ran a brass "T" fitting from the lower port, then a line from the top port on the Boost Bypass Accuator Valve to on side of the "T" fitting. Then I used the OEM connection that came of the lower port (rubber fitting with two red vacuum lines) and plugged it into the other side of the "T" fitting. One line goes to the FRPS and the other to the OEM boost line or your aftermarket boost gauge.

    2) The bottom port on the Boost Bypass Accuator Valve goes to the air intake so it is filtered. (Some leave it open and vented to the atmosphere.)

    3) From the top vacuum port off the back of the Whipple/Eaton, I reduced it to a smaller vacuum line and hooked it up to the OEM "Y" vacuum splitter near the passenger fender. On the passenger side there are two vaccum lines that go to this "Y" fitting. One comes out from behind the passenger side strut tower (charcoal canister) another comes out from the firewall where the bottom heater hose plumbs through and goes to your air conditioning vent vacuum system.

    [​IMG]

    4) The bottom vacuum port with the 90 degree fitting (Evap Emissions Port) goes into the passenger fender to the Evaporative Emissions Control System (EECS). This hose is OEM on Eatons (connected to the plenum on the Eaton) and is reused on Whipple/KB installs. Do not delete. It is PCM controlled and will cause problems if removed.


    Info about the EECS: The Evaporative Emissions Control System (EECS) is designed to trap and store fuel vapors that evaportate from the fuel tank, throttle body and intake mainfold during non-operation or idling, store them in the charcoal canister and then route into the combustion chamber to be burned during engine operation. The EECS consists of a charcoal filled canister and the lines connecting the canister to the fuel tank, canister purge regulator valve, ported vacuum and intake manifold vacuum. Fuel vapors are transferred from the fuel tank, throttle body and intake manifold to a canister where they are stored when the engine is not operating. When the engine is running, the fuel vapors are purged from the canister by a purge control solenoid which is PCM controlled and consumed in the normal combustion process.


    5) Manifold vent line stays the same and gets hooked up to your PCV valve via your oil seperator (if you have one).

    [​IMG]


    These instructions also satisfy the "Boost Drop Off" issue seen by those of us running over 17lbs of boost. See the following thread:
    http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/engine-tuning-214/505705-boost-loss-whipple-help.html

    I hope this helps everyone out.
     
    Last edited: Mar 26, 2010
  2. WydOpen

    WydOpen New Member Established Member

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    Great write-up Craig!
     
  3. TORQJNKY

    TORQJNKY Authorized Vendor Authorized Vendor

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    Hey Rob, thanks man. As you can see the Whipple is still on the floor in my office. Think I might slap it on tomorrow. I ran AN-8 fuel line through an Aeromotive 10 micron like we talked about. Came out real nice. Talk to you later.
     
  4. Posi

    Posi Had a blast. Established Member

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    Thanks for this because I'm sick of mine and it's coming off for good.
     
  5. TORQJNKY

    TORQJNKY Authorized Vendor Authorized Vendor

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    No problem Posi. Let me know if you have any problems. It should be spot on.
     
  6. TwinTurbo4vGT

    TwinTurbo4vGT Slowest GT alive :) Established Member

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    so about emissions ill definitely fail if this is blocked off right?
     
  7. WydOpen

    WydOpen New Member Established Member

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    Yup :thumbsup:
     
  8. TORQJNKY

    TORQJNKY Authorized Vendor Authorized Vendor

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    Probably so.
     
    Last edited: Jan 18, 2009
  9. IronTerp

    IronTerp Mid-Atlantic Cobra Assoc. Moderator

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    Awesome job Craig!!! Gonna be VERY helpful to a ton of folks.
     
  10. TORQJNKY

    TORQJNKY Authorized Vendor Authorized Vendor

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    Thanks Dwight. Hope so.
     
  11. TwinTurbo4vGT

    TwinTurbo4vGT Slowest GT alive :) Established Member

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    ok well then EGR delete goes on after my inspection :thumbsup:
     
  12. 03cobra#694

    03cobra#694 You Guys... Staff Member Super Moderator

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    Great job and thanks.I`ve been wanting to do this to clean things up in the engine compartment.
     
  13. FlaSeaDude

    FlaSeaDude Building a Perfect Beast Established Member

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    Darn, where was this post two weeks ago when I was installing my Whipple on the car... :bash:

    J/K, Craig - Some great info here. :thumbsup:

    Now I need to decide if I want to tackle this with the blower mounted on the engine... :shrug:

    Update - I just ordered the EGR delete kit form Lethal and I'm gonna remove that hornet's nest of wires and vacuum lines on the driver's side of the blower... :beer:
     
    Last edited: Jan 19, 2009
  14. 04sleeper

    04sleeper Runs On "Liquid Gold" Staff Member Super Moderator

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    Thanks for taking the time to do a write up Craig. :thumbsup:

    I would have liked to do a similar write up but now I don't have to. :beer:

    Oh, and I live in Dallas and have passed inspection for the last 2 years without any problem. I just turned it off in my tune and it seems to work just fine because it doesn't throw any codes.
     
  15. it'llgo

    it'llgo New Member Established Member

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    Perfect timing and a great write up! Just got my delete kit the other day. Thanks a lot!
     
  16. 03cobra#694

    03cobra#694 You Guys... Staff Member Super Moderator

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    Did mine yesterday,just got to finish cleaning things up.The hardest part is getting the dang tube out:cuss:
     
  17. 04sleeper

    04sleeper Runs On "Liquid Gold" Staff Member Super Moderator

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    The easiest way that I have done it is to use a 7/8" or similar size open end wrench and put one end of the wrench inside the tube from the bottom. This gives you the leverage to push it out of the top while twisting the tube to fish it out.
     
  18. Satyr

    Satyr Active Member Established Member

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    Will this same method work on the Eaton?
    I know the EGR part will, but what about the vacuum lines or anything else?
     
  19. TORQJNKY

    TORQJNKY Authorized Vendor Authorized Vendor

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    Yes. The only difference between the Eaton and Whipple is where the boost bypass valve is situated on the blower. Whipple is on the rear of the blower and the Eaton is on the drivers side of the blower. All the lines will route the same.
     
  20. rw95gt

    rw95gt Yes, it's stock. Established Member

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    i did this a few weeks ago when i installed my long tubes. this thread was a big help. it really cleans up the blower. thanks.
     

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